theproffesor

iTrader: (66)

Well I spoke the praises too soon. Upon further inspection of the diff case, I noticed some trash on the inside. Wondering where it could have come from I looked at the gears. There is damage to both the ring and pinion gears. I have spares so I am going to replace them and use these as my emergency track side spares, but has anyone else ran into this issue?? I'm going to look at the front gears in the morning.

I also have come across the dreaded drive cup spread. And this is only on my 21.5 USGT car. I havn't looked at my 17.5 yet. Does anyone know if Exotek is replacing these for original owners, or do I need to buy a couple?

RedBullFiXX

iTrader: (34)

Those seem to be common issues from indoor board meetings

Mine and others have had the similar results, output shaft can easily be repaired with a gentle squeeze

So much flex in this car, and little give from drive unit

Perhaps the alu chassis will help ?

Josh-n-ya

iTrader: (95)

theproffesor, Did you by chance use the white lube for those gears? I'm assuming you did.

niznai

The gear damage looks like you had incorrect gear mesh. From the pictures I would say you need to check again both the pinion protrusion and lateral alignment of the crown wheel. You need the pinion deeper, and the crown further away/closer (more or less play - too much or too little result in similar damage). Looks like you didn't have much lubrication either, but that is secondary.

Another thought I had was that the motor mount and gearbox move relative to each other so you might have to take that into account as well. I would assemble the whole drive train and run it whilst twisting the chassis and listening to the noise. That might give you some hints about adjusting gear mesh.

And a question. Why does everybody move away from the transverse motor position? That is the whole point of this chassis.

theproffesor

iTrader: (66)

I've never run any type of lubricants on ring and pinion gears on any shaft drive car I've ever had. Never seemed to be an issue. But I guess it couldn't hurt to put a little on there. Suggestions?

As for mesh, there is very little backlash in the gears. They are pretty close together. But I think I can see where maybe a .1 shim on the pinion gear would be good.

Josh-n-ya

iTrader: (95)

I use the supplied Tamiya ceramic grease that came with the kit for those gears. Makes gear mesh really smooth and quiet. Also having proper gear mesh works too. I also have some Labelle 106 grease. They are both plastic lubricating greases.

vivo quevas

iTrader: (19)

Proffesor you need to add a couple of shims behind the pinion tighten the mesh up.. The output shaft looks like you need the beefier Exotek replacement. My car wiped out the gears just like that till I shimed the gear.

racer x 1

iTrader: (27)

I use Lysol for the gears, drys to a wax like finish and quiets the drivetrain noticeable. Exited just updated the shaft output so you any want to order one. The only other thing I'd say is don't forget your driving a shaft car when hitting the boards. A shaft car has no give in the drivetrain upon impact...

So far I'm loving the sh!t out of mine gears are in good shape, bearings all freed up, only issue is a leaky diff and I'm working on that now. Handling is tits!

Simmi

Mash gears were already a problem in the first EVO 6, the blue one

The guys from Tamiya did not get it on the turn that gear without mush. For me an EVO is never an issue. Have sold quickly the EVO.

Still the same crap.

Better is the EVO 5MS without any mush

niznai

There's your problem.

Gears need lubricant unless they're some sort of smart self lubricating material like the recently arrived (in the RC world) Teflon, Delrin, etc. Don't think those gears are any more than run of the mill garden variety nylon. The reinforced gears (carbon/glassfibre) are even worse. They'll grind each other to death.

My suggestion is you try whatever you like first and then just go get some graphite powder from your friendly local model shop if they have model trains and such. You might find it in auto parts stores as well.

And then there's wet teflon spray, dry teflon spray, lanolene, etc.

As for gear mesh, the pinion wear suggests there's another 1mm of tooth unused there, so a lot more than just .1 shim.

theproffesor

iTrader: (66)

Went with a .5mm shim. Gears still have a rock of backlash, but a lot less than before. I also greased the gears with some Chapstick. I figured we use it to grease up the threads as we build turnbuckles, so it should provide some level of lubrication.

As far as gears NEEDING lubrication, do you grease up your pinion/spur?

niznai

Spurs/pinions are in the category I mentioned earlier. Delrin/teflon and special coatings on aluminium mean you don't need lubrication. If you're really anal, you can use again graphite powder (or some other dry lubricant - but graphite is the best).


As for backlash, do the test I mentioned and you'll soon find out if what you did is enough or not.

theproffesor

iTrader: (66)

So, now that we are done with the no gear lube persecution, does anyone else have any carpet set-ups they would like to share?

King of B Main

iTrader: (40)

I know your frustration ! I gave up on the car and haven't touched it in 2 weeks . I am going to give it one more chance .

theproffesor

iTrader: (66)

Well my current set up works fine, it just needs some refinement. I like to see what path others are taking. There are many ways to reach the finish line.

One of the reasons the X-rays are so popular is the user support base. They are excellent cars, but they also have the one of the biggest information sharing networks out there. Someone new to the chassis can get on here or petite RC and get a setup that had the car damn near dialed in for any track.

I know there are a lot of these cars out there with or without the EXO conversion. Let's start sharing more info on what we find with the car. It's quirks and the fixes. Let's mak the EVO 6 as easy to use.