164LikesTamiya TB Evo 6
12-02-2015, 11:09 AM
#1381
Tech Master
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Currently for Tq im on the stock setup only changes are no shims under arm mounts for lower roll center, yok blu springs all around, 37.5 wt shock oil, and 3k in the rear diff. The car is extremely easy to drive for the first couple of minutes in usgt trim. My next changes are for thicker rear diff oil for more rotation and better drive out of the corner. Oh and im playing with gearing still. Other than that my car is a dream to drive.
12-02-2015, 01:42 PM
#1382
Well my current set up works fine, it just needs some refinement. I like to see what path others are taking. There are many ways to reach the finish line.
One of the reasons the X-rays are so popular is the user support base. They are excellent cars, but they also have the one of the biggest information sharing networks out there. Someone new to the chassis can get on here or petite RC and get a setup that had the car damn near dialed in for any track.
I know there are a lot of these cars out there with or without the EXO conversion. Let's start sharing more info on what we find with the car. It's quirks and the fixes. Let's mak the EVO 6 as easy to use.
One of the reasons the X-rays are so popular is the user support base. They are excellent cars, but they also have the one of the biggest information sharing networks out there. Someone new to the chassis can get on here or petite RC and get a setup that had the car damn near dialed in for any track.
I know there are a lot of these cars out there with or without the EXO conversion. Let's start sharing more info on what we find with the car. It's quirks and the fixes. Let's mak the EVO 6 as easy to use.
I will work to put together a set up sheet for my Exo conversion but I will have an oddity that won't apply to most but I will still share none-the-less.
Similar to Professor, I have been a long time VBC loyalist. The Exotek conversion intrigued me and I had a TB04 on the self that was an asphalt racer for my youngest son. I purchased the Exo kit and converted everything over and was very impressed. I am running active rear toe on my setup so I'm not sure how much my set ups will be to everyone, but I will post it tomorrow.
I race on a very low bite carpet track in USGT and the Exo set up has unbelievable traction even with brand new USGT tires. I am often looking for ways to dial out rear traction (we do not have the new CRC carpet either).
Thanks in advance for all those who have contributed advice, reading through all the past posts has been very helpful.
12-02-2015, 02:31 PM
#1383
What are you using to run active rear toe. Get that lost count up so we can see some pics. I'm interested to see how it works on the Exo6.
Raxerx1. I thought for more rotation, you would go with a thinner diff oil. Wouldn't a thinker oil cause more slide vs actual rotation? Or I could be off with my though process. Also if you're looking for better rotation, have you thought about using less rear toe? Or a shorter wheel base?
Raxerx1. I thought for more rotation, you would go with a thinner diff oil. Wouldn't a thinker oil cause more slide vs actual rotation? Or I could be off with my though process. Also if you're looking for better rotation, have you thought about using less rear toe? Or a shorter wheel base?
12-02-2015, 06:01 PM
#1384
Tech Master
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What are you using to run active rear toe. Get that lost count up so we can see some pics. I'm interested to see how it works on the Exo6.
Raxerx1. I thought for more rotation, you would go with a thinner diff oil. Wouldn't a thinker oil cause more slide vs actual rotation? Or I could be off with my though process. Also if you're looking for better rotation, have you thought about using less rear toe? Or a shorter wheel base?
Raxerx1. I thought for more rotation, you would go with a thinner diff oil. Wouldn't a thinker oil cause more slide vs actual rotation? Or I could be off with my though process. Also if you're looking for better rotation, have you thought about using less rear toe? Or a shorter wheel base?
12-02-2015, 07:19 PM
#1385
My car was fine with one set Sweep 32's and then i purchased a new set of the same tires and it's traction rolling all over the place, completely undrivable! I'm hoping its a bad batch of tires. I will be doing some testing in a week or two. I will be posting my setup soon and asking for advice on traction rolling. I'm driving on med - high grip carpet.
12-02-2015, 08:12 PM
#1387
Tech Elite
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12-02-2015, 09:28 PM
#1388
My car was fine with one set Sweep 32's and then i purchased a new set of the same tires and it's traction rolling all over the place, completely undrivable! I'm hoping its a bad batch of tires. I will be doing some testing in a week or two. I will be posting my setup soon and asking for advice on traction rolling. I'm driving on med - high grip carpet.
2)Move your front shock position in one hole on the shock tower.
3)Reduce front camber.
12-03-2015, 05:48 AM
#1389
[QUOTE=theproffesor;14289799]What are you using to run active rear toe. Get that lost count up so we can see some pics. I'm interested to see how it works on the Exo6.
Hopefully if I did this right, you will be able to see 3 pics of the active rear toe. For now, because I am more familiar with the VBC items more so than Tamiya (or others) I am using VBC springs, sway bars, Active Rear Toe and I have switched to VBC balls / ball cups. I also run the Ewippler carbon driveshaft and Acer ceramic bearings.
I really like my VBC chassis, but when I switched to the Exo 6, it was instantly just as fast, generated more grip and is way easier to drive. I think it was the overall smoothness that I have benefitted from the most and have been able to hold very consistent lap times from fast lap to the top 20 avg. I never feel like I am chasing the car at all. Always in control.
Also as you commented, I have played around with the wheel base and track width of the car and have found HUGE changes in the car by using those adjustments.
Hopefully if I did this right, you will be able to see 3 pics of the active rear toe. For now, because I am more familiar with the VBC items more so than Tamiya (or others) I am using VBC springs, sway bars, Active Rear Toe and I have switched to VBC balls / ball cups. I also run the Ewippler carbon driveshaft and Acer ceramic bearings.
I really like my VBC chassis, but when I switched to the Exo 6, it was instantly just as fast, generated more grip and is way easier to drive. I think it was the overall smoothness that I have benefitted from the most and have been able to hold very consistent lap times from fast lap to the top 20 avg. I never feel like I am chasing the car at all. Always in control.
Also as you commented, I have played around with the wheel base and track width of the car and have found HUGE changes in the car by using those adjustments.
12-03-2015, 10:41 AM
#1390
Tech Master
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[QUOTE=RollingChicane2;14290575]
What spur is that!?
What are you using to run active rear toe. Get that lost count up so we can see some pics. I'm interested to see how it works on the Exo6.
Hopefully if I did this right, you will be able to see 3 pics of the active rear toe. For now, because I am more familiar with the VBC items more so than Tamiya (or others) I am using VBC springs, sway bars, Active Rear Toe and I have switched to VBC balls / ball cups. I also run the Ewippler carbon driveshaft and Acer ceramic bearings.
I really like my VBC chassis, but when I switched to the Exo 6, it was instantly just as fast, generated more grip and is way easier to drive. I think it was the overall smoothness that I have benefitted from the most and have been able to hold very consistent lap times from fast lap to the top 20 avg. I never feel like I am chasing the car at all. Always in control.
Also as you commented, I have played around with the wheel base and track width of the car and have found HUGE changes in the car by using those adjustments.
Hopefully if I did this right, you will be able to see 3 pics of the active rear toe. For now, because I am more familiar with the VBC items more so than Tamiya (or others) I am using VBC springs, sway bars, Active Rear Toe and I have switched to VBC balls / ball cups. I also run the Ewippler carbon driveshaft and Acer ceramic bearings.
I really like my VBC chassis, but when I switched to the Exo 6, it was instantly just as fast, generated more grip and is way easier to drive. I think it was the overall smoothness that I have benefitted from the most and have been able to hold very consistent lap times from fast lap to the top 20 avg. I never feel like I am chasing the car at all. Always in control.
Also as you commented, I have played around with the wheel base and track width of the car and have found HUGE changes in the car by using those adjustments.
12-03-2015, 11:08 AM
#1391
12-03-2015, 11:13 AM
#1392
Can't wait for the release of the alloy Exo6. 
12-03-2015, 06:10 PM
#1393
12-04-2015, 08:20 AM
#1394
Tech Adept
Just trying to help you out here, you can choose to do the above but it still doesn't solve your problem. Have you checked your build as follows?
1. After this step of installing just the lower arms, are they free? From my experience when building the kit, the 0.5mm spacers BB9 of the hinge pins caused binding as they were a bit too thick. I ended up using shims instead for reducing to 0.3-0.4mm.
2. Now moving onto the hubs, is the suspension moving freely after this step? There is a chance for hubs to bind here.
3. According to your description the problem may be somewhere in this step above. Before you assemble all the parts together here, lets break it down into smaller steps and checks.
3.1 With BC30 & BC16 assembled, is BC6 smooth if you pop them together?
3.2 Now pop the above assembly into the ball end on the arm (BB4 of step 14). Make sure you are using BB15 here as BB6 should not cause tightness if you follow the overall length of 27mm (ball links usually bind if the turnbuckle rod is screwed too far into the cup, which should not be the case here).
3.3 Now on the other hand, install only the rod BC28 itself (with 2x BC31) onto the gearbox. The rod shall first be centered over the gearbox by adjusting BC31, then adjust BC4 until it swings freely.
3.4 Now if everything checks out, connecting the turnbuckles to the rod by tightening BC30 should not cause any binding over the whole rear suspension assembly without shocks attached.
For step 19 in the manual, the indication of 1mm extension of the rod with BC30 should not be critical here, in general you want the BC6 turnbuckles to be at right angles (90degrees) with the roll bar when assembled.
Hope this helps
1. After this step of installing just the lower arms, are they free? From my experience when building the kit, the 0.5mm spacers BB9 of the hinge pins caused binding as they were a bit too thick. I ended up using shims instead for reducing to 0.3-0.4mm.
2. Now moving onto the hubs, is the suspension moving freely after this step? There is a chance for hubs to bind here.
3. According to your description the problem may be somewhere in this step above. Before you assemble all the parts together here, lets break it down into smaller steps and checks.
3.1 With BC30 & BC16 assembled, is BC6 smooth if you pop them together?
3.2 Now pop the above assembly into the ball end on the arm (BB4 of step 14). Make sure you are using BB15 here as BB6 should not cause tightness if you follow the overall length of 27mm (ball links usually bind if the turnbuckle rod is screwed too far into the cup, which should not be the case here).
3.3 Now on the other hand, install only the rod BC28 itself (with 2x BC31) onto the gearbox. The rod shall first be centered over the gearbox by adjusting BC31, then adjust BC4 until it swings freely.
3.4 Now if everything checks out, connecting the turnbuckles to the rod by tightening BC30 should not cause any binding over the whole rear suspension assembly without shocks attached.
For step 19 in the manual, the indication of 1mm extension of the rod with BC30 should not be critical here, in general you want the BC6 turnbuckles to be at right angles (90degrees) with the roll bar when assembled.
Hope this helps
Hi Rc_square24,
Thank you for posting the pictures (although they are pretty blur and hard to see) and explained your tuning experience. As im a noob in building my Evo6 all by myself from scratch, I bound to have make some mistakes.
I reamed my 4 suspension arms during the earlier stage was because they were very stiff. However, as I installed into my 4 suspensions (together with the anti roll bar in my kit), the suspension arms seems quite ok and smooth, although I have not installed my electronic parts into it and will try running the car. And yes that I have completed building my very first car kit (though I'm not sure if they can run well). I guess I have to try running my Evo6 once I have installed my electronic parts. Most likely, I may resulted in trial and error. I will also like to seek you guys' advices here if I have problem running it and thanks in advance.
Once again, thank you all for the advices and update you all again. :-)
12-04-2015, 12:25 PM
#1395
Tech Adept
Evo6 rear left wheel / rear differential gear problem
Hi Guys,
It's me, the newbie who is building his first car here again. I have completed building the Evo6 car kit. However, when I just installed a motor (together with other electronics) to test whether the wheels are running properly, I noticed that the rear left wheel (where the differential gear is) just moved slightly, while the other 3 wheels moved as per normal. I double checked the setup manual on the rear differential gear and also took out the built differential gear, the two hubs of the differential gear works as per normal and the spinning speed of the two metal hubs/cups are proportional. I just can't figure out why. Can anyone please advise me as it is very urgent for me now. Thank you guys in advance.
It's me, the newbie who is building his first car here again. I have completed building the Evo6 car kit. However, when I just installed a motor (together with other electronics) to test whether the wheels are running properly, I noticed that the rear left wheel (where the differential gear is) just moved slightly, while the other 3 wheels moved as per normal. I double checked the setup manual on the rear differential gear and also took out the built differential gear, the two hubs of the differential gear works as per normal and the spinning speed of the two metal hubs/cups are proportional. I just can't figure out why. Can anyone please advise me as it is very urgent for me now. Thank you guys in advance.