Late reply here, but the new GT3 is 187-188mm at the top of the wheel openings front and rear. Jaco Blues on a 6mm hex sit about 5mm inboard.

For those running the TCS, GT Pro Spec class. Any recommendations for the number of internal shock spacers needed to achieve a 5mm, 5.5mm ride height with the required plastic shocks?

I used the included 3mm plastic spacers on both ends of the car to get the droop over ride height equal front to rear, and depending on the weight of your car and what springs you're using, the amount of pre-load spacers varies to get you to a ride height of 5mm.

I'm not a TCS racer and still have an SRX in box, what class should I build this up for? Box stock is this best suited as a USGT or VTA car ​​​​​or add some more parts and go full TC?

I do not have any firsthand experience with the SRX, but I imagine it would have the best odds of being competitive in VTA. As speeds increase, and weight is reduced, I imagine it will get less competitive.

I am working on turning a SRX into a VTA car.. the biggest challenge is to get it geared for more top speed, the max Tamiya gears (64/29) are not going to cut it.. I got the TJR parts gear cover delete kit and the Yeah Racing adjustable motor mount.. that way I can get it geared much higher, so at least it can keep up on the straights.. next I’ll have to work on corner speed.. the SRX needs anti roll bars and droop stops.. for me the tinkering is part of the fun.. but out of the box.. the SRX is not going to do well at either VTA or USGT..

I ran a fully loaded type S in VTA. It’s fantastic and super competitive.

In USGT, if you’re in sportsman’s it will do very well. If you grow to be in the mix with experts, then you will need to move up to a better chassis

Check out this link/article about a TT-02S kit that was built before the SRX that was using the 419 suspension upgrade and sway bars. Everything on this kit is Tamiya and would be eligible to race in some TCS classes...

https://www.thercracer.com/2020/03/u...02-type-s.html

There are several aftermarket droop stop options that will work with the SRX kit such as this one made by Yeah Racing...

https://www.yeahracing.com/yeah-raci...t-033-00106030

In TCS you would be able to run it in GT2 or GT1, but you will be racing against fully decked out TAxx/TBxx and TRF cars.. not saying you can’t.. but you are bringing a knife to a gunfight..

Thank you for the tip on the SRX droop stops, just ordered a set!

Dunno.. I enjoy running my SRX+ in VTA.. but I wouldn’t call it super competitive.. on a good day I am at least a couple laps behind TQ.. that said.. at our track VTA with the new Gravity tires are running times that are very close to USGT.. maybe my problem is that we have too many fast drivers out here 😎

Sorry Bud
Raman is right on the money

In GT2 last year at nationals, the 2nd place guy was running an SRX. He thought it would be legal for GT pro spec but since it wasn't, he entered GT2. I was amazed at the pace of it honestly. If he had a proper TA07, heck...even a TA05, I think he could have beaten me easily. He was a great driver.

Did you switch to 64p gears for more gearing options?

Yes - that’s the idea, problem is that the gear cover also keeps the driveshaft bearing in place.. and the big pinions you end up running rub on the gear cover.. that’s why I ended up using the gear cover delete kit.. it is plenty fast at this point, but it leans a lot in the corners.. the droop stops should help with that.. it’s getting there..

The leaning may not be the fastest, but it’s sure darn fun and cool looking to cut up the carpet like that.

I have a tto2r that I was running at a very large competitive race with some of the best drivers in our state I qualified in fifth place and finished in fourth place the car was as fast as everyone else the only downside was I wasn't able to adjust by droop the way I needed to to make the car as reactive as I needed it to be speed wise I was on Pace with everyone I just couldn't keep rebuilding the shocks and putting spacers in them between the runs as the grip levels changed the key to getting this car to run competitively is getting the gearing right you will need a 69 tooth spur gear with a 63 tooth pinion in 64 pitch that is the gear ratio I was told to run on shaft drive and it worked, motor temps are fine. The downside is you have to set the motor mount in the car with one screw line it up then use a long hex driver through the back of the chassis all the way to the motor mount to tighten it then you need to pull it out tighten the bottom screw in the motor mount and the top screw put the motor mount back in the car and put both bottom screws in so it's kind of a pain in the butt but you only have to do it once if you look back in this thread you will see pictures of my car it is a green castrol tt02. And this was with the short tto2 arms I upgraded it to the 419 arms and I was getting quite a few podiums and several wins against some of the top shelf cars I used the Tamaya droop plates on the bottom of the car as they are made out of steel and put the weight as low as it can get I also ran the same chassis in usgt with quite a bit of success this car is all about setup once you get the setup right it's actually quite easy to drive fast good luck you can easily win with the SRX with the droop adjustment and the correct gearing

Finally got my GT12R dialed in and got to mess with my TT-02 tonight. I'm trying to figure out what kind of gearing works for a just for fun VTA build. This is an Arrowmax 59 pinion and a RW 68 spur (3.00 FDR). I can go slightly smaller on the pinion with the 68 too. I tried 54 and it was touching but pretty loose. The only thing stopping the motor from meshing better was this corner touching the motor where the bearing is on the chassis. A little grinding and I could fit the 54 to get a 3.27 FDR without having to change the spur. Also you can see there is quite a bit more room for a bigger pinion and/or spur to get a much lower FDR!
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...a00a3ea7c2.jpg

Getting back into R/C after 35 years or so (life happens) and there is a local track and one about 2hrs from me that has a TT02 stock class that I can run so I'm thinking of starting back with this platform (in addition to a TC4 I picked up for random fun in a class that will allow it).

Been reading what I can in this thread and elsewhere (YT etc.) trying to take a crash course on TT02 platforms and racing specs. What I would like to do is invest in decent electronics (radio etc) so I can expand to other platforms as it makes sense.

The local shop guy recommended a "Noble" for a radio that I somewhat checked out but I'm curious as to what people recommend for receiver and servo for the 02.

Sounds like only basic Tamiya hop up parts are allowed as I think locally they are following TCS rules.....so bearings etc. but nothing too "interesting".

What breakable parts should I stock up on? As I know Tamiya is 99.99999% plastic normally which means things will break.....

Am I thinking about this right?

If you're getting the Noble radio it'll come with a receiver. Servo, any basic low profile one will do.

Welcome back! Stock TT02 is a ton of fun, at our track (NORCAR Ohio) we allow ball bearings, front cvd’s and whatever body you think is cool. Full size 2S battery packs but you don’t have to use Tamiya plugs. Gearing, Motor and ESC as it comes in the box.. Flysky Noble are awesome radios, pretty sure they come with at least one receiver so you are good to start.. servo wise.. anything of a somewhat reputable brand in the $50/$60 range will do a great job.. spare parts? TT02s are pretty robust.. the occasional front and rear hub.. and the stock pinion wears pretty quickly..

I have been running the ProTek RC 140T servo in my GT ProSpec for the last two years with a Tamiya blue aluminum servo horn (no servo saver). That servo has taken its share of hits both outdoors on asphalt and indoors on black carpet and its as good as new. Highly recommend it (plus its not quite Tamiya blue but close enough...LOL :lol:)

Thanks a ton guys, appreciate it.

Last racing was maybe 1990 or 1991.....original RC10 platform, a Bolink pan car and my grail was a Schumacher cat that got run over by a car and then I got my drivers license and 35 years later, back at it.....never really lost the bug, just have a ton of other hobbies etc like everyone else.

I want to get the TC4 up and running as well, I always liked Associated but I know it is now an older platform and I scoured the web for some additional parts for breakables etc. Unfortunately there aren't many classes locally where I could run it.

I am going to be running my tt02 srx in the vta class what spur and pinion size to start is going to get me close for vta

also what is the biggest pinion that fits in the car

Sorry if this is a dumb question but I kinda lean in that direction. I am looking to pick up my first LiPo for my TT02r and I was wondering what size mah battery should I buy in order to balance the car down the center? I am running a 540 silver can with a HW1060 speedo and a ProTea 140 servo if any of that matters. Thanks guys!

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...9886c6f4f3.png

This or 60/70 to get 3.03 and adjust from there.

This will get you close:

https://www.amainhobbies.com/protek-...15-22/p1370770

I have found the Protek 2s 5000mah battery works the best for me for balance and lightweight. Been running my LiHV for 3 seasons now.

Adjustable Camber on TT02
 

Hi r_lud

love your ride!

rctech newbie, back in the hobby after 30 years and tinkering with my TT02 911 RSR with some good progress (and acceptance of that the XRAY X4s at my local club will still lap me).

QQ : Is there any reason for why the PSM Upper Mounts + a set of turn buckles wouldn't work for camber adjustment for the TT02. Seems like a much more elegant and lighter solution than Tamiya's own Adjustable Arm Set (54874).

Thanks in advance!

actually.. I don’t think it would work.. the SRX uses the TRF hubs/hub carriers with standard hubs you would need a solid mounting point on the chassis..

[QUOTE=canyoncarver;16085042]Hi r_lud

love your ride!

rctech newbie, back in the hobby after 30 years and tinkering with my TT02 911 RSR with some good progress (and acceptance of that the XRAY X4s at my local club will still lap me).

QQ : Is there any reason for why the PSM Upper Mounts + a set of turn buckles wouldn't work for camber adjustment for the TT02. Seems like a much more elegant and lighter solution than Tamiya's own Adjustable Arm Set (54874).

Thanks in advance![/QUOTE....

Of course, that makes sense, the hubs likely don’t work with TT02 arms so I can see how this turns into a
SRX upgrade of your TT02 :lol:

TT-02R showed up today......of course I ended up buying a bearing kit thinking it didn't come with one as it wasn't listed as one of the included "hop up" parts but I probably just didn't read closely enough. Whatever, better to have two sets than no sets I guess. Since I will be running TT02 and possibly TCS I just went with the 1060 ESC and the Torque Tuned 540 for now.

Gotta finish getting my TLR up and running, installed electronics today on that one while also working on converting my TC4 to an informal dirt oval rig......

Fun stuff all around.

Probably start the TT02 later in the week or over the weekend.

I have a TT02RR and running on black carpet and having major issues with understeer. I am running the short wheelbase, 2.5 rear hubs, spool in front, 7k diff fluid rear. 3 hole piston in shocks with 3k diff fluid (recommended by last years TCS Japan trip winner Vu), soft red springs. 3mm shim internal in shock and 2mm shim rear shock to limit droop. -2 degree camber all around, 4mm hex with 0 offset tires. The I have a crazy amount of understeer and literally have to run +5 degrees or more toe out in order for this thing to be somewhat competitive. Everyone else has a far less aggressive setup with toe out and for the most part the exact same setup but has so much steering and can carry so much speed through corners, while i have to brake in order to get this thing to steer. Has anyone run across this issue or any recommendations to fix this extreme understeer.

Try a lower shock oil, go to 1500 and see what it does.

I will give that a shot, before putting the 3k in I did have just normal 40WT oil in and performed the same way, but thanks for the suggestion. i will give that a shot.

Got the TT-02R built up yesterday during a snow storm......took ~6hrs, not too bad. Body pained up decently etc.

Went to the track today along with a practice session for my TLR and I at least got the TT-02 going, confirmed things work etc. BUT......damn on black carpet this thing has a TON of oversteer. Played with the basic spring shims but nothing really "cured" things so I need to shake that out. Running the stock tires right now...........so there is that. The track runs a spec tire for TT-02 so I need to really wait until I get those on but clearly I have some work to do.

For a cheap little kit it will be fun to run with the others.......

I'd definitely have a look at how tires are being worn over the surface. I don't have all the info on your type of surface and track layout (open long radius or tight corners, etc).

Going out on a limb, I'd probably reduce the camber all around first, and see how that affects. These chassis do not require much of it to work well, in most cases.

Hard to judge without seeing the car, but definitely start with dialing your camber and toe back closer to neutral.. I run .5 camber in the front 1 in the back.. 2.5 degree toe in on the rear, 1.5 tow out at the front.. have one of the experienced drivers run your car, they will be able to help.. I do find that I have to power through corners whenever I use a spool in the front, it’s a little counter intuitive but you have to get on the throttle to make it turn.. if you let it roll, turn radius will definitely be a lot wider..

Once you get the spec tires.. if it still oversteers, it’s time to work on tire prep.. glue the fronts.. get the traction compound dialed in.. check with the locals at the track, they will have it all figured out 🤙