Since the C5 Corvette, the body has looked like a Ferrari in front, NSX from the side and the only thing that makes it look like a Vette are the tail lights.

The C8 is the saddest looking from the side. It looks put together, doesn’t flow at all. Build quality is extremely poor.

I don’t discount it’s performance. It’s a beast and corvettes have always been.

They just need to hire some designers from Italy to draw up these cars.

Sounds like the only third gens you were in were 💩 LOL

You're hurting my feelings Raman! :D I badly want Tamiya to make a C8 body. This Protoform C8 isn't cutting it to match my big one. :p


https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...3b6043cd75.jpg

Hahaha lol.. my hats off to its performance capabilities! They’re epic

These two are my mistresses.


https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...ec969420e.jpeg

The Romeo is 1750 or 2000 cc ?

Fun facts about the third gen Camaro's.
The 87+ 2.8 v6 equipped ones were actually equal to or faster on the street than the 305 equipped ones.
The v6 Camaro had a better COG, thanks to the engine being further back than the v8, and handled better than its v8 counterparts.
Drop that boat anchor iron block and heads and swap it for an all aluminum LS, which weighs less than the v6 engine, and you've got yourself a very quick car with handling to boot.

For the third gens, If you didn't put the proper work and energy into it, you had a dog 💩 car. I'm not mad you don't like them. Everyone likes something different and that's what makes the discussions interesting.
I just feel that you got the wrong impression from them. It wasn't till a couple of decades ago that the LS came out and people started figuring out it was a no brainer for the third gen, cause lets face it, it doesn't handle so well with a boat anchor under the hood. But, put the right engine in and it changes the handling quite a bit; it no longer pushes the nose when cornering. I bought the v6 Camaro because it handled better. After a 2 inch drop, and suspension work to match, it would carve the curves with the best of em. And once that boost came on out of that Holset diesel turbo, it was like lighting a rocket.

The faces were priceless when that boost kicked in. :lol:
I really want a quality third gen body. But I'll probably have to 3D print one.

You got some results from a time attack or autocross to back this claim? How about a lap record anywhere?

I really like it too....although - the scaled down proportions in 1/10th scale make it look a little "chunky"....
The top of my "Wish List" for a Tamiya TT-02 Chassis is the Ferrari 488 GTE Evo... That would complete my Le Mans manufacturers representations collection.

Raman, that is an absolutely gorgeous Alfa! I have the Tamiya Guilia body still unpainted.

simple, agreed.....maybe the slightly chunky looks had to be done to clear the TT-02 shocktowers. Tamiya should do a TT-03 with low shocktowers and bring back the 2007 Raybrig NSX body too. :D

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...a7a6f3e795.png

69 1750

I don’t know when we will see another Ferrari.. they’ve pulled back on their licensing in a major way.

Im happy to see this McLaren.. it fills the void exotic kit releases from Tamiya.. would be nice to see some Aston Martin releases as well.

Could've been cool for them to include this body with an F103GT or TC01 kit and make it nice and low slung.

Compare the specs to the same cars from that era. Skidpad etc. Many people have autocrossed with them. I have not. But I do know there are quite a few cars that couldn't keep up with mine through the corners, and I'm just one person with a v6.

All the info you require is available on various third gen forums.

Back to topic.

Wouldn't take much to use the front bumper mounted posts, and a modified shock tower without body mounts on it. But then the posts would probably be too far forward to look weird.

So you've got no proof your car handles better than 95% of cars on the road today like you claimed.

Read the red again. I never claimed mine handled better than 95% of the cars on the road today.
Stop trying to start an argument by twisting my words.

This is an RC forum, and a thread about a TT02, lets talk about that instead.....

I'm at it again :lol:
Turns out an aluminum crawler shock mount with a slight bend is perfect for mounting two flints on the back.
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...7823a83a17.jpg

The most rearrest engine in europe they do not exist any more .

Yep, very short lived but still considered their best engine of the era. It’s a very angry little engine 😈

Many substitutes the 2.0l for it’s slightly larger displacement and ease to modify.

I made sure that mine came with the original.

I have released a Front Splitter and bumper assembly mounted Diffuser for the 1973 911 Carrera RSR on a TT02 chassis.
All of my Aero stuff, Pictures, Links and further information can be found Here - https://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/ind...comment-922865

The rear diffuser I designed a mounting system that allows the diffuser to be mounted at 3 different heights, so should hopefully be able to be mounted at your chosen body height. Need feedback on this mounting system as I need to know if I need to add a few more optional heights. This diffuser should tuck right into the rear bumper on the 911.

MID mount
https://i.ibb.co/6bz7yR7/mid.png

HIGH/LOW mount
https://i.ibb.co/ZgyhdXg/highlow.png

Diffuser with mounting tab
https://i.ibb.co/0Y7Shm0/bumper-mounted-diffuser.png

Let me know what you think!

(I asked about posting a link from Tamiya club and got no answer.)

New guy here. I just started racing a TT02 at my hobbyshop. I raced it this weekend and had a front dog bone and the diff drive cup fall out when I got tangled in a wreck. I'm sure this has been answered before, but is there a specific upgrade that I can do to so this doesn't happen again? This message thread is over 223 pages and I would imagine that someone has encountered this before.
What would you recommend?

Get a set of cheap $15 CVD axles off Amazon.

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...9e9681ab18.jpg

Don't you need the other type of drive cups like the ones that come with the TT02R for those? I've never used them but I thought they didn't fit right without the other cups.

Nope, these fit the kit stock drive cups and i have a red sett on mt TT-02 Mustang. You really don't need them on the rear as the stock bits are fine. Find a buddy and split a set of 4 CVD's and save even more.


https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...744a1b6622.jpg

If you get the ones with the big ball ends you will be fine.
You can if you want to spend more money get the Yeah Racing universal joints with the small ball ends but then you would have to buy the ones with the small cups too.
Either way just make sure when you get the universal joints to thread lock the grub screw that is put in these. I can't tell you how many times I have had the universal joint loosen up after 1-2 races, as well as the guys who race in my club. Also make sure to add some black grease (I prefer Team Associated) to the ball end.
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...de769bf196.png
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...5f76908090.png

I've noticed two different kinds of these Yeah Racing universals floating around. The lighter color (more brown/tan) Are made of spring steel, and break axles rather easily. The darker, or black ones seem to be much more robust in the axle pin area than the lighter colored universals. It's not that they are constructed more robustly, but different steel is used for the darker ones, and those are the ones I haven't had an issue with. The tan colored ones broke in days. YMMV

For what it's worth, the darker universals came in the TT02 aluminum conversion kit. I have seen them by themselves though, so there must be some mixed stock floating around.

Just purchased a TT-02 and some Hop Up parts.

I purchased these for the Front:
ITEM# 53792

RC UNIVERSAL SHAFT ASSEMBLY

However, I had also installed the

ITEM# 22047

RC FNT DIRECT COUPLING SET 39T

The Universal shafts are No where close to fitting. They are to long, and I'm unable to get the Hubs to attach to the Front Arms.

Likewise in the rear. Once I discovered they wouldn't fit up front, i tried them in the rear with the Oil Filled Diff. Still to long to really fit correctly. The universals went into place, but they were still long enough to compress my Diff to the point it wouldn't rotate freely, and would literally grind the gears when turning it manually.

I don't have much of any experience with Tamiya, has anyone run these combos, and what am i needing to replace to make these shafts fit properly?

For Tamiya #53792, you need to be aware of the following'

Compatible Chassis
TT-02*1, TT-02D*1, TT-01D Type-E*2, TT-01 Type-E*2 & TT-01 Type-ES*2 Chassis
*1: Use with Item 54477 Gearbox Joint for Universal Shaft (TT-02), 53663 and 53806 pairing, or 53590 and 53671 pairing.
*2: Use with Item 53790 Cup Joint for Universal Shaft (TT-01, DF-02), 53663 and 53806 pairing, or 53590 and 53671 pairing.

Tamiya ARS toe control suspension guide
 

I’ve made a guide on how to give a TT02 ARS / Toe control rear suspension.
Click here

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...3470417bd.jpeg
Tt02 rear toe steering guide

Thank you very much for this post!

My TT02 drift car FRS next to the full size one.

Rookie driver setup
 

New to this platform. Currently run a MTC2 in sportsman 17.5 TC/USGT. Wife was gifted this to get her out there with me. She has zero background in rc. I will however be building it, tuning/setup on this car. Any advice before I open the box and start building it? I want it to be the easiest thing to drive so that, she wants to play again after her first race. Is the box stock setup a good starting point? I have all the necessary setup tools and gadgets. The ultimate goal will have this setup for pro spec GT as this class is growing and has better drivers than the rookie class. For now, she’ll probably spend a year in rookie. I need her to be successful so we can do this together and have fun. I don’t mind buying upgrades like the universals to smooth things out or beef things up. Within reason. I had a TA07 PRO that I upgraded to an RR and spent stupid money doing that. Never again. Would have been cheaper to buy 2 RR KITS. So, I have experience, understand directions and made many stupid mistakes and learned from them. Hence why I come to you humble, asking for some advice. Thanks for your time. 9 years of posts makes for a long read and she wants to drive this thing like…..yesterday. I need to move on that excitement while it’s hot.

I am assuming you picked up a basic kit that comes with a body and not. TT02-R? If so

For ProSpec I recommend the following
1. aluminium prop shaft and prop join 54501/54502
2. super CVA shocks 54753
3. 54874 Adjustable arm set
4. 54875 gear diff x 2 or 22049 (newer version)
5. 53500 TT02 high speed gears with 64/29 gears.
6. If you prefer to run a spool in front: 54649 diff locker, or new spool 22047
* Note the newer parts that start with “2” are not yet on the ProSpec list as they were released for XV02 but are TT02 compatible
7. CVDs. If you get 4 and 5 then you will definitely needs CVDs as those plastic dog bones and drive axles wont work.. plus they’re prone to popping out so becomes a hassle.

This is honestly all you need. The rest of the hop ups will not make a difference in ProSpec. Proof being at last TCS 1st and 3rd (Me) were TT02 RR maxed with hop ups. 2nd was TT02 made out of spares with 1-5 that I listed. It was a very close battle.

Where to buy. Check out PlazaJapan. With the strong $, you will pay 60% less for these parts than an LHS! 👍

great info! Thank you. We did however get the TT02R kit.

Great! Saves you on quite a few hop ups.

Hey all
I picked up tt02 to club race. There is no restiction on batteries. I figured short lipo would be the way to go. Does anyone have a short hold down kit? Or a OEM looking mod that would work.
I plan on running the highspeed gear set with the torque tuned. I assume 69/29 is the way to go. Its a local parking lot pretty tight.

Thanks

I am not sure a spool or diff locker is a good idea for a new driver. It's more twitchy.

Not necessarily. I have a TT02 (albeit a fully hopped-up SR version) which is equipped with a front spool. That car is the easiest to drive :nod: (probably also the slowest, due to motor and gearing restrictions of that particular class :lol:) of all my cars, and even though I'm not new driver, I can tell it's very much beginner-friendly. Is a spool / locked front diff a must have? Probably not, since TT-02s usually don't compete against top tier cars, but it's nothing to be afraid of either.

Spool makes the car much easier to drive, unless you put it in on the wrong end 😉

ProSpec is sssssllllllloooooowwww racing.. you can sip your coffee while going down the back straight and still have time to make a correction lol.

I forget if the TT02R comes with ball bearings. Don’t forget to purchase those.