Originally Posted by lnc0321 (Post 15842399)

Thank you.

Originally Posted by Raman (Post 15842267)

@TurboThirdGen

well I’m over half century old fart myself lol. Ok so you have this set up as a speed run car.

My experience with TT02s is that it’s a fairly neutral chassis, not much torque steering either. Usually see that with 2wd cars.

I think you have a lot of things going on that can be causing the pull to left. Perhaps you may even over thinking what’s needed for a speed run car.

On my personal speed run car (hits 60 mph on 2S) the set up is not very far off my other cars.
PB is 47mph on 2s and 63mph on 3s. Haven't topped out on 3s yet.

Front: I have a locked diff. Shock oil 50wt. Medium spring
Rear: gear diff, 5k oil. Shock oil 50wt, medium springs. You need some diff action for speed.
Kit shock oil. Do have the shock oil that came with the Yeah racing shocks, but don't see a number on there. Got some motor oil though!
So when I had an open rear diff with some AW to tighten it up, the rear end spun so much I went through tires way too fast. I would imagine suspension setup also has alot to do here.

Ride height is 5mm in front and 5.2 mm in rear. Since your car doesn’t have droop setting screws, the next way to measure it would be with a ride height gauge.

You place the gauge in front centre, best with bumper removed. Adjust shocks for chassis to touch gauge at 5mm. Lift the chassis with your fingers using shock tower, just enough so that tyres are on about to leave the flat service. Push ride height gauge in until it touches. If it goes in 2mm, that your droop above ride height.

For front, I would set it maybe at 1mm. Rear I would allow 2mm. This will allow good weight transfer.

In the case of your shocks, yes you would put a spacer inside to reduce droop. You will have some trial and error to get the right droop unfortunately.
Will do. I think the big spacers in the front and the smaller spacers in the rear may work, That'll be my first try.

Your shocks, you don’t want 90°. standing shocks up in front will give you more steering. This makes for an edgy speed run car. Standing shocks up in rear is good for straight line but less on cornering. I would go in one hole on each for starters.
Ok, makes sense. Since I'm going with straight line speed, I'll try just moving the front shock positions in a hole to lay them down.

Camber set at -0.1° All around. Toe I would leave it stock at whatever it is, eg 3.0° or 2.5°, it will give you straight line stability. later on tune some of it out for speed.
So, I have no camber adjustment currently, so 0 front and back. Also running 0 toe rear hubs. I broke both the Yeah racing 2.5 and Tamiya 3 degree hubs rather quickly. Thinking about the steel Tamiya adjustable rear plate, but thats for shaft mounted arms, and the YR toe block wont allow use of the rear bumper, which is where my body posts are.

I’ve never used a giro, usually it’s needed for drift, not drag racing? Or is that a new thing. Not sure 🤔
The Futaba GYC441 can be used for forced heading hold(AVCS) or drift mode.

Once you get past 60, you probably need to go heavier on shock oil weight and springs as the forces on suspension increase. Your also going to need to ditch rubber tyres as they won’t hold up past 60. To my knowledge they haven’t made a drag race rubber tyre for 1/10. Your best bet are foams.
I have a set of BSR 30mm foams and a set of BSR 32mm foams

Originally Posted by SteveM (Post 15842436)

The Yeah Racing alloy shocks are available in several colours, includes the oil and several sets of springs to help dial in the ride. I used a set on an Associated TC4 years ago and they were excellent.

Originally Posted by TurboThirdGen (Post 15842459)

Awesome thank you!

Gonna add to your quoted post in colored text.

Originally Posted by lnc0321 (Post 15842465)

Before I purchase a new TT-02. I could get locally a used TA-05R. Do you think that's a better choice than a new TT-02?

Thanks again

Originally Posted by Raman (Post 15842499)

TA05R is a much better chassis than TT02. That’s the chassis I run for my speed runs.

However if you plan on hitting some dirty / rallye, stick with TT02.

Originally Posted by Raman (Post 15842501)

If you pick up a basic TT02 kit, in my opinion, don’t waste your money buying the CVA plastic oil filled dampers.

For the same money you can buy the Yea racing aluminium which are basically a copy of the TRF. The threaded shock collars allow you to adjust ride heigh much more accurately.

Unless your planning to race in Tamiya TCS, which only allows for Tamiya parts

Originally Posted by Raman (Post 15842498)

No no, don’t use motor oil. Just picked up some Team Associated Silicone shock oil, 50wt, 55wt, 60wt.

Definitely add camber to front and back. Zero toe in back is causing the instability. I’m running 2° In on my rear and 1° out on front

Originally Posted by lnc0321 (Post 15842502)

Thank you. How about parts for the TA? Would it be an issue?

Originally Posted by Raman (Post 15842570)

Hard to find parts are:
1. Replacement chassis
2. Belts.. V1 in particular

all other bits are more or less interchangeable and upgradable with later cars.. eg you can use suspension arms from 418, 419, 420 with no issues.

Belt, you can switch to V2 belt if you change the pulleys, which is better anyways. V2 belts can still be found.

Hop Up.. there is still plenty of inventory out there

Originally Posted by TurboThirdGen (Post 15842545)

The current state of the chassis.
Upon further looking at the yeah racing rear toe mount, It might work with the bumper; I just need a caliper measurement from the front to back of the adjustable mount where the screws go.
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...3588c82861.jpg
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...69c503583e.jpg
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...9b932dd969.jpg
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...4f803f0e2e.jpg
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...8a1ce06c96.jpg
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...8c4457eff3.jpg

Originally Posted by Raman (Post 15842607)

what brand tyres are those?

Originally Posted by Raman (Post 15842622)

This is my TA05 V1 60mph car.


https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...9f9844aa7.jpeg
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...fa152cc52.jpeg

Originally Posted by Raman (Post 15843162)

I typically run front diff locked / spool and rear with Oil filled. The only car I run a front diff on is my XV01 which is used for Rallye on dirt, snow etc.. that has a gear diff, but with very thick fluid

Originally Posted by SteveM (Post 15843200)

Silly putty in the front diff will make it into a solid spool, and it can be easily removed without residue later should you want to get the diff action back. Also won't leak.....bonus.

Originally Posted by TurboThirdGen (Post 15842627)

I love the Porsche bodies. I'd love to get the Tamiya Toyota TS020 GT-ONE body but I'm not even sure it would fit on the TT02.

I feel like something is off on the chassis. I put the shorter lower eyes on the shocks and moved the front shocks in up top. I have 2mm droop in the front and no rear droop with the mini CVAs.
Still pulls to the left pretty hard. I also have the 30mm foams. I'll have to get the ride height but its about 6mm front and 7mm rear.

Originally Posted by Raman (Post 15843533)

Yesterday I decided to shoot a video of my TA05 hitting 60 mph with assistance of my son 😉

https://youtu.be/mQIzWNGsCuk

Originally Posted by Gyosho (Post 15843718)

Update: The RcAidong steering set helps quite a bit, but still pulling left on acceleration. No random turns anymore though, so that's a plus. Going to work on some turnbuckle adjustments to maybe dial in the left pull on acceleration.

And I'm still not great at driving and I busted a rear wheel knuckle skidding out into a curb - ooops! so I ordered the YR 2 degree rear knuckles to replace the stock ones. Practice sure is fun!

Next up: I'm looking at replacing upper/lower front arms, front knuckles, and putting in the u-joints all around.

These things are a blast to drive and the number of parts options are great for being able to get it all fixed up and back out again quickly.

Originally Posted by Panther6834 (Post 15843728)

Almost finished with the body food the TT-02 kit I'm giving to my step-dad. He said he's ready to build a kit, but I also know he'd have no patience in doing the body (and, considering I've already spent a good 15 hours on it, NOW I understand what perks mean about Tamiya bodies being "complicated". Anyway, here's what it looks like so far.
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...81e5e10aaf.jpg

Originally Posted by TurboThirdGen (Post 15843642)

Nice!
I'll have one soon as well. Have some 48p gears on order to go faster on 2s, if running on 3s doesnt kill it haha.

I was going through the chassis and found one of the rear drive cups rounded off in the gear in the diff. Popped another open diff in from my rally TT02. I tossed in the WR02 open metal gear diff in the rally car for now.

I'll have my adjustable upper arms today and the YR adjustable rear toe plate tomorrow.

Originally Posted by TurboThirdGen (Post 15843808)

You used flat paint it looks like? That looks really slick man.

Originally Posted by Panther6834 (Post 15843820)

Yes...and no. Used standard Tamiya PS & Traxxas ProGraphix paints on the inside. Then, using my scalpel (I don't use X-Acto knives), I carefully...and, very lightly...cut the overspray film around the areas needing to remain 'glossy' (windows, headlights, taillights, front & rear air dams), and packed away the overspray film (except in the aforementioned areas. I also left the tape covering the windows, headlights, and taillights on the inside. After that, I sprayed Traxxas ProGraphix flat clear, waited for our to dry, and finally removed all (exterior) overspray film & (interior) tape. Just a standard "trick" for creating 'flat' paint jobs. My custom-painted Losi Baja Rey body, as well as both of my Spec Slash bodies, have all received the same treatment.

Originally Posted by MD (Post 15843980)

TT CLASS - ST. CHARLES, IL, HOBBYTOWN

Originally Posted by Panther6834 (Post 15844076)

Would be great if our local track (NorCal Hobbies, San Jose, CA) added something like that. On the outdoor track (only Saturdays, except for "big" events which also don't on Sunday), we only have VTA & USGT on a constant basis (the two most popular on-road classes). Technically, 17.5 RC, 21.5 TC, Modified TC, Tamiya Euro Truck, & F1 are also run, but only if there's enough to meet the 'minimum'. There is also a "being what you got" Rookie class...but, no *spec'd* class that's inexpensive, like the Tamiya TT class your track runs.

Originally Posted by MD (Post 15844081)

What was funny was the numbers for oval and on road. It's a small carpet track and they ran on road in the morning and early afternoon and oval in the evening. They had three TT drivers for on road and they all finished on the same lap. For oval they had seven drivers. One may not have been a Tamiya TT car. My only criticism of the rules is there are too many hopups allowed. Obviously you need bearings, but the cars come with a motor and esc.I still thinks it's a very good idea.

Originally Posted by MD (Post 15844081)

What was funny was the numbers for oval and on road. It's a small carpet track and they ran on road in the morning and early afternoon and oval in the evening. They had three TT drivers for on road and they all finished on the same lap. For oval they had seven drivers. One may not have been a Tamiya TT car. My only criticism of the rules is there are too many hopups allowed. Obviously you need bearings, but the cars come with a motor and esc.I still thinks it's a very good idea.

Originally Posted by Panther6834 (Post 15844076)

Would be great if our local track (NorCal Hobbies, San Jose, CA) added something like that. On the outdoor track (only Saturdays, except for "big" events which also don't on Sunday), we only have VTA & USGT on a constant basis (the two most popular on-road classes). Technically, 17.5 RC, 21.5 TC, Modified TC, Tamiya Euro Truck, & F1 are also run, but only if there's enough to meet the 'minimum'. There is also a "being what you got" Rookie class...but, no *spec'd* class that's inexpensive, like the Tamiya TT class your track runs.

Originally Posted by Gyosho (Post 15844113)

NorCal hobbies is a great place! I read that they just added a Stock Slash Spec class for their indoor carpet track.