TLDR;
Quit hitting things.

Anything for you.

Want to know what helps encourage beginners to get better at driving? Encouraging them to run the middle, so they don't hit walls/rails and inexpensive kits that are easy to work on when they do hit things (which they need to quit doing).

What to know how to encourage people to race? help not troll them and act like your a racing god. Try not being a problem but a solution. Like this

No idea if this could work but maybe limit the side to side movement of the dog bone by having a oring or a sponge insert in the cups keeping the dog bone from sliding into one cup more then the othe and popping. hope this is helpfull

My tt02sr raced in koc gt and now aldershots supersport class holds fastst qualifier at moment shore will go next year when drys up lolhttps://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...35d53cab41.jpg
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...e9892160fe.jpg

Problem: Hitting things. The dog bones don't fall out under normal use, centered or not.

Solution: Quit hitting things.

troll

Yea but he was probably trolled and hazed when he started. The hobby is filled with folks who elevate their egos at the expense of the newbies. It happens all too frequently. Either get good, get a thicker skin for get the heck out. It's super sad. I remember back in the 90's when you would show up to a track and the vast majority of the racers would talk with you, answer questions and give you pointers on how to improve. Now it's "don't hit stuff". As with just about everything else in life now, it's not the 90's anymore.

well anyone thats know me i will give my time and limited knowledge up. will sort peoples cars that are struggling. alot of the people down Aldershot are the same well most racers i know are like that . Just hate seeing people that are no help talking just being rude, don't have something nice to say then just go your way. Just don't crash is the most stupid answer its like saying just go faster everyone trying to do that anyway also that's not an instant thing and to some not achievable which if that's all they hear is going to drive that person away. But 90s lol yea I was always in my local shops asking sponsored boys what's the best.

Of course that is a solution, but a) not the only one and b) only one for experienced drivers (which you obviously were from day one :rolleyes:...). Problem is, it's not the fitting solution for beginners and even some intermediate drivers. So please stop being so toxic. Just pass on.

100%.

Sorry, but I disagree. I've never seen a track where everyone just jumped up to help (neither 20+ years ago, nor now). Some people did (and do) - but just like here on the forums, those who yell the loudest don't necessarily have the most knowledge and skills. OTOH I have also never seen a track (to this day) where people would not talk to you or help you, if you asked. Things were actually not all that much better (or different) in the past. That's pure nostalgia, IMO. We tend to fondly remember the good things and forget about the bad. Human nature.

Centering the shafts and limiting steering throw will help to a point. Then when the hits become more than "slight", the dog bones will still come out. The next option would be to quit hitting stuff. This option also eliminates the need for the first two options, so why not go there first?

because sometimes you don't hit things but are hit by things.

Crazy idea, but maybe run the TT02 class as RWD only with no front dogbones? Can't loose what you don't have!

Otherwise you might be looking at universals, then low friction suspension balls once the plastic ones wear out, then low friction steering step screws, a new pinion gear...

There's not much that's "cheap" about stock TT02 racing.

You won’t lose what you don’t have plus you will have 2 spare dog bones and diff out drives 😎

But the car will probably suck to drive...

Nah, you load any car up with tire sauce and it's fine.

It's a TT02, you can't make it THAT much worse... Plus, its better to be poor to drive than have a DNF.

The Yeah Racing steel universals and cups are only $20:

• Yeah Racing Tamiya TT-02 Steel Universal Drive Shafts (2)
• Yeah Racing Tamiya TT-02 Steel Front/Rear Differential Cups (2)

The few TT02 "box-stock" classes I've seen pop-up over the years in this area have all ended up allowing at least this upgrade for durability. If that's really not an option, then it's like others have already said: turn your dual-rate down to limit steering throw and/or stuff a piece of foam or o-ring in the cups.

EDIT: Ope, YEA-TT02-015, is on backorder on A-Main. Here you go: Yeah Racing Tamiya TT-02 G45 Steel Universal CVD Driveshafts V2 TT02-015

TT02 Battery Advice (UK): LiPo or NiMH?
 

I’m new to RC cars and to the forum. Firstly, thanks for all the advice and tips I’ve already found on the forum.

I bought my Son a stock Tamiya TT-02 (Lancia Delta Integrale) for Christmas which we have almost completed building and are looking at sourcing the parts required to get it up and running.

It will be used for playing around on the driveway/in the garden so we’re not looking at going crazy upgrading at present. I’ve ordered a ball bearing kit and oil-filled shocks to replace the friction ones in the kit.

I’ve also bought a Flysky FS-GTC3 transmitter/receiver and a JX-PDI 4409MG servo.

I just need to sort out a battery/charger. As I understand, the speed controller in the stock kit is not designed for LiPo batteries and could risk over-discharging. Does that mean I need to look at NiMH batteries? Any good current recommendations for UK sources batteries and a compatible charger?

I have been given a TLP Fuzzy Logic AC/DC switching charger, although I have no instructions for it and don’t know how to use it. I’m not sure if this is obsolete now.

Any advice to would be really helpful. Thanks in advance!

Even if an ESC doesn't have low voltage cut-off you can still use LiPos: there are external Lipo alarms you can connect to the battery.

Thanks, I’ve seen these. Are they straightforward to fit? Is it an audible alarm? I was wondering how easy this would be to hear?
I’m assuming LiPo is quite a big upgrade compared to NiMH?

You can also use these switches from Ruddog.
https://www.ruddog.eu/RUDDOG-Electro...itro-Engines_1
Personally, I think these cutoff devices still go below (6.2 is dicey) the proper recommended threshold (3.2v per cell = 6.4v minimum)
A proper esc is a worthwhile investment in the fun.

Getting an ESC with a low voltage cutoff seems like a better option.
i found a ‘Tamiya Hobbywing 1060 RTR Quirun 60A Brushed ESC NiMH/LiPo 8T limit’ for under £20: is it compatible and will it do what I need?

HobbyWing 1060 is perfect.
Yes, it will work with the stock silver can brushed motor and suit your purpose nicely.
If you want more speed, there are still several brushed motors available. My preference for Rally fun with a TT02 is a 2or 3 slot 19T motor. Good speed and torque, and won’t drain the batteries too fast.

The TT02 Lancia Delta should have come with a HobbyWing 1060 ESC?

The TT02 Lancia Delta should have come with a HobbyWing 1060 ESC or TBLE04S… unless you picked up an older kit that has the Tamiya TBLE-02S.

let us know which ESC came with the kit.

The "problem" is these ESCs are not provided into the kits by Tamiya Japan (not even the Tamiya-labeled ESCs are). They're all put into the boxes by the distributors, so they can vary quite a bit. Same as the clear plastic wrapping around the kits - not done by Tamiya themselves (yet some collectors seem to insist upon it, so the kit is in "original" condition (which it is not, strictly speaking)... In Europe, or let's say Germany and some surrounding countries, there are still kits that have a Tamiya ESC, some have a Hobbywing 1060 and some have a Carson ESC. So you really need to check what you actually got.

Thanks for that…
I’ve just checked and it comes with a Carson Dragster Brushed 70A which appears to be compatible with LiPo batteries (although it doesn’t say if it has a low voltage cut off).
is this a better controller than the Hobbywing 1060 60A (which I have also now ordered!)?
Are LiPo cells/chargers much of a muchness or are their manufacturers/suppliers to look for/avoid?

What I found:
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...41ef2f0c99.png
It looks just like the Hobbywing 1060 (which it says it's rebranded), can't find anything about low voltage cutoff, but if it's rebranded it should.

the 2 jumpers are the settings. One is for forward brake reverse. The seconds for LiPo or Nimh.

Nice

Has anyone tried putting front a-arms/steering knuckles on the rear of their TT-02 (basic kit) to allow adjustable rear TOE? There is a good article about how to do this on THERCRACER.com. Here is a link to this mod...

https://www.thercracer.com/2022/07/t...trol-rear.html

I realize there are other ways to get rear toe on a TT-02 as I have another chassis with Tamiya aluminum 2.5 rear toe uprights and several TT-02s kits. I just wonder if anyone has any feedback on this mod.

I did it with the TA08 Arms. It works well, just the caster is off. With as small as these cars are, it doesn't really effect anything. It cost less to just buy the 3 deg rear uprights. Car drives just as good if not better without active toe.

I have a couple of TT-02 S kits, one I've been slowly upgrading to a TT-02 SR spec.

I recently purchased Tamiya 42372 RC DOUBLE CARDAN JOINT SHAFTS
39Mm (2Pcs). I should have paid more attention to the TT-02 SR manual as it requires 42mm drive shafts (Tamiya 42339).

The question I have is has anyone tried the 39mm Double Cardan on a Stock TT02 (with steel gearbox joint/outdrive)? I know the Yeah Racing 39mm universal works (I raced with one)

----------

I should note a few things when assembling the Tamiya Double Cardan shafts (42372)
Pro - comes with 1 extra pin & 1 extra axle ring
Pro - included 2 Tamiya 1050 (3mm thick) steel shield bearings
Pro - includes a very detailed instruction manual

Con - did not include any grease (sold separately)
Con - the axle rings can be a bit tricky to install

One thing to note about the axle rings - the included manual shows you the correct direction to install the rings due to the different rotation direction of the left/right sides of the car. I need to show this to a racer at my local track as he was having issues with his drive joints on his TT-02 SRX coming apart. I should also note that the SRX uses 419 a-arms/steering knuckles in the front and uses a 37mm drive shaft (22054) on its double cardan setup.

Make sure to read your manuals before buying parts for your cars!

I’m about to start building a TT-02 with the new Porsche GT3 body for a local “Porsche cup” spec class. It requires the gravity USGT wheels and tires. Has anyone else mounted up these wheels? Will I need extended hex’s or axles to get the wheels flush with the body?
Thanks for any input.

Porsche’s being wide in the rear, usually need a wider hex to make it look right.. but for racing, it might not give you any advantage.

Not 100% sure about the TT-02 Porsche, but I think it does not require wider axles (as I believe the TT-01 Porsche did).

I ran the 2007 911 body in our club ProSpec with USGT tyres and the wheels sat inside. For looks you would need 6 mm to 9 mm hex.

Im not sure of this newer 911 body, but assume for scale reasons that it would be similar

Is this allowed to use in TAMIYA TCS for the GT Pro Spec class?
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...3f620aae7.jpeg

Yes, but would be better off with the spool or even a putty/ear plug. Tamiya 42247 locks it up pretty good and is probably going to be lighter than that diff locker.

Here are the active rear steering mods. You need Parts bag A, B, Adjustable turn buckle kit X2, 18mm shaft and ballcups ( I used ones from TT-02B shock )
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...e6a7443aa0.jpg
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...2558a105b7.jpg
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...05c7f62e5b.jpg
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...2bc292c7fc.jpg
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...4ce4955967.jpg