Does anyone know of any companies that sell complete screw sets of hex socket button head self drilling screws for the TT-02 or TT-01.

I know that Yeah Racing sells these types of screws in different length packs of 10 pcs. Here are links to the Yeah Racing hex socket button head self drilling screws...

- 3x6mm - (https://www.yeahracing.com/titanium-...scription=true)
- 3x8mm - (https://www.yeahracing.com/titanium-...scription=true)
- 3x10mm - (https://www.yeahracing.com/titanium-...scription=true)
- 3x15mm - (https://www.yeahracing.com/titanium-...scription=true)

While I have a Tamiya JIS screw driver, I just wanted to replace the stock screws on a TT-02 kit without having to worry about different threads in the screw hole.

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EDIT (thanks simple for the part#)

I found the TT-02 set I was looking for on Yeah Racing
Yeah Racing TS-TT02 - (https://www.yeahracing.com/titanium-...-tt02-00037120)

I usually buy online from Amazon. The 2 of the 3 pictures on the Amazon listing showed machine threaded screws (not self drilling). It also didn't list the contents of the kit. Yeah Racing's website has better pics/info.

Check out RCmart and ASIATEES they have alot stuff to these.
Atleast had, Very cheap. Tons of options when i did my Tamiya TT
i regret i did not buy a better competetion kit insteath.

That time Schumacher MI had same price like hop up TT.
and the Schumi was like 10x better car than this Tamiya.

Today these TT can be cool, like Vintage racing, stock almost.
And old style retro bodies. Like Mustang or old Camaro

I clicked on the links you provided and the gears pictured in each link actually have the correct number of teeth (yes I manually counted...lol).

The short answer is the number of teeth inside the gearboxes will determine the internal drive ratio of the gear boxes.

40/15 = 2.66666666667 gearbox ratio
39/15 = 2.6 (Stock TT-02 gearbox ratio)

If you look at Page 29 in the XV-02 manual, it describes how you can use different gearbox ratios on the XV-02 to affect how the front & rear oiled-filled diffs operate on the car. This can be an advantage when running on dirt or surfaces with less than ideal grip levels. Here is a direct link to the .pdf manual on Tamiya's website..
https://www.tamiyausa.com/media/file...-1329-65aa.pdf

Keep in mind that the XV-02 also has fixed spur gear in the center of the car/drive line. You can optionally install an oil-filled gear diff in the center of the car attached to the spur gear. This would give the car 3 oil-filled diffs on the drive line.

Is there an advantage changing the internal ratio/gear on a TT-02 on-road car that already has oil-filled gear diffs? Maybe if you are running a fixed timing 17.5 motor with the stock motor mount. However depending on the rules of the class, it may be illegal or go against the spirit of the rules. But realistically the difference between a 2.6 and 2.66666666667 ratio is very little (but not exactly nothing).

Yeah Racing is the only company that I am aware of the has the "titanium" self tapping hex cap screws sets.
https://www.rcmart.com/yeah-racing-t...%20screw%20set
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...0aa3211920.png

Careful with those, they will strip out fairly easy at the hex. That's the lowest grade titanium money can buy.. Strength is a little better than aluminum.

For TT01 and TT02 hop ups, is it still RC MART, and Asiatees that are kings?

Maybe there is other great chinese online shops also? better than these ? in case of old Tamiya Hop Ups ?

I use TQ RC Racing and Integy.

I implore You, Please don’t encourage nor engage this poster.
He or it needs to go away, They are all over in the last few months posting nonsensical baloney trying to sell Chinese bullcrap. Please ignore Him,It,They, whatever.

Hobbytown St. Charles, IL TT Class.
 

I apologize if I have posted this previously. If you own a TT01 or TT02 you may be interested if you live in the Chicagoland area. The Hobbytown in St. Charles, IL has an indoor and outdoor racing series. They have a TT Class. I have included their rules. The next parking lot race is July 1st.


https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...6362476c81.jpg

I have these on my parking lot car. I replaced the existing kit screws with these after already assembling the kit. I have not stripped any heads or threads. Not many high torque needs on a TT02.

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...feb7b02ed3.jpg

TT02 parking lot racing is fun.

I was looking for parts online recently and came across Tamiya 54815 (https://www.tamiyausa.com/shop/optio...erlwr-sus-arm/)

This part number is listed for the TT02 B kit, due to the lower suspension arms. Has anyone used the reinforced gearbox covers that come with it on their regular TT-02 on-road cars? I looked at some Japanese reviews on Amazon, and it looks like it should fit. The only downside is not needing TT-02 B lower a-arms.

Also if you have a chance, download the new TT-02 SRX manual and you can see some of the XV-02 parts that are used in the driveline. Look for the red circle with a white down arrow on the following page/link

https://www.tamiyausa.com/shop/110-4...x-chassis-kit/

Yup, 54815 fits. I grabbed a sprue after seeing mentions earlier in this thread that people sometimes break the gear cover in a crash and I'm a sucker for "Oh, that's available, I'll spend." Can't say if it makes any difference or not (haven't finished that particular build yet) but it does allow for a third screw to attach your carbon damper mounts and the ones from PSM are pre-dimpled for the hole, you just have to drill it out. The dimple is about .5mm low, so drill on the high side of it.

Wasn't quite sure where to ask this, but this felt like a good a place as any. Any thoughts on a set of light buckets to fit this body? It's a McAllister Riley Daytona Prototype that's going on a TT02 for some night racing. Was going to try to make my own, but the shape is a bit tricky. Might still go that route.

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...a7bb5ec1a2.jpg
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...374008f600.jpg

I'm not aware of any that might fit out of the box. I've had good success with cutting light buckets out of random blister packs from various things, and then secured it with either servo tape, shoe goo, or that foil tape. I will say this has usually been for tail lights, and I typically keep the decal on so it looks better. Not always an easy task but Ive started to save any bits of plastic packaging that I could repurpose for this very reason. Good luck!

maybe a light bar inside the windshield bc that tire is awfully close to the headlight area. Think about the wires sticking out of the bucket if you decide to put an led there.

It'll be a bit tight, but there's enough space. The shape is rather tricky, but I'm thinking I'll have to settle for "close enough".

In response to light buckets....

If the goal with the headlights is to have a "clear lens" on the outside of the body with a housing with light on the inside of the body, I would suggest searching online for rc light buckets or rc universal light buckets. There is a company called Firebrand RC that sells a kit of some generic light buckets. There are also some of these bucket kits that come in chrome.

Another option might be to use/modify a light bar kit with round fixtures/lenses and mount it the inside of the body. You will often see these types of lights or fixtures on r/c crawlers. Axial sells AX30709 Universal 5 Bucket Light Bar Set that might be interesting.

-----------

If the goal is to put the light sticker/decal on the outside of the body and just shine a light through it, there may not be a need for a light bucket at all. You could simply secure an led light on the inside of the body. You may or may not want to mask off/not paint the area behind the sticker/decal depending on how bright you want the light shining through. LED lights tend to be very bright and having a sticker in front can make them be a bit less blinding.

Always test and double check before installing lights this way so you can determine if there are any hots spots or areas of light bleeding through the body in areas you don't want.

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The above options will be better suited on bodies that are meant to be displayed. If you are planning to race the body (such as in a 12 or 24 hours day to night or similar race, I would recommend using a light kit that mounts through the body. These type of light kits usually require drilling a small hole and a light mount that goes thru the body from the front and attaches with some type of nut on the back.

These types of lights would be a little more crash resistant if racing as they are less likely to be knocked off the body due to crashes. Unfortunately due the angle of prototype front ends, as light kit like this may end up pointing in the air more than straight ahead.

There are plenty of cheap versions of these light kits online, some even less that $10 USD.

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Another option would be to use/adapt light kits meant for a different r/c body. A possible candidate could be the Tamiya Mercedes C11 body. Tamiya recently had a limited re-release of the kit which is #47848. This body has its own "pan car" style chassis, so the wheel arches may not match a standard TC like the TT02 or a TC01.

Many Tamiya kits come with light buckets such as the Subaru BRZ ZD8, but this particular bodies' light buckets would probably not be suited to a prototype front end. Maybe one of the Porsche body's light buckets could work?
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As others have already stated, plastic blister packaging is so common that they even sell cutting tools to help open some of those impossible packages. The nice thing about the blister packaging is that it is often thinner plastic than r/c bodies, so it would be easier to modify and/or heat up and bend to custom shape. A good choice that many people in this hobby may already have is the plastic packaging with AA batteries. Next time you are in a general goods store, look around see all of the plastic packaging.

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One final suggestion I just found by doing a quick internet/YouTube search is to use/modify an aluminum drink can. This thickness of aluminum can be cut using some cheap scissors and bent easily by hand. Just be careful when cutting/bending metals to watch out for sharp edges.

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Don't forget to watch rc light bucket videos on YouTube as they can be informative or entertaining.

Hope this information helps.

A lot of grip to zero grip
 

Hi everyone,

i’ve recently started racing 1/10 onroad and Im having a blast.

There’s just something that keeps catching me out and I’m not sure if its something I’m doing wrong or what.

The track is asphalt and it gets sugared and cleaned with a blower.

So my last race with my TT02, on practice day I had a ton of grip, I used tyre warmers with goop.
Race day, also tyre warmers and goop but a lot less traction.

I would say both days were more or less the same temperature wise and I was running sweeps 32s which were one race day old from my 21.5.
I did use older team powers on practice though, I do not know the softness.

The race before the same thing happened, I used to use WD40 before I got the goop and tyre warmers, and it was like the car was on ice.

On that practice I used old rush tyres and on race day I tried the same team powers as mentioned above and I quickly switched back to the rush tyres because of the lack of grip - ice…

Admittedly I wasn’t able to apply the tyre warmers for the same duration as on practice because I was running two classes.

My 21.5 looks like it doesn’t have the same grip as the rest of the top 3 but then that could just be my skill level with the 21.5s.

I know its a long post and any advice would be greatly appreciated.

No grip
 

From my knowledge, Sweep tires have never been a go to tire in finding grip on the track. NEVER. Tires are the number on factor in getting your car dialed to the track. Stay with what tires seem to work for you. If you find a tire that works for you, buy a new set and run them in race. Also, don't be afraid to ask the top 3 drivers what tires they are running and try them. Make sure you get the sauce info also.

thank you for the reply.

I’ve been thinking of trying another brand of tyres as I have only been hearing bad things about sweeps and haven’t had much success with them myself either.

One thing that could have an effect too is humidity levels.
Our indoor asphalt track experienced this a couple times when I started racing there 3 years ago.
Our race director turned on the heat in the morning to get the track warm (since we only race there in the winter) couple of hours before we showed up. Track is coated with a mixture of soda, corn syrup and alcohol. Track had amazing grip in the morning, but the building started to get too hot and the heat was turned off. That's when the humidity level started to go up turning the track into wet sugar then we had no grip (and my tires were coated in sugar which was a pain to scrub off).
Once the humidty levels dropped back down the track was great.

That sounds like something to take in account but, it looked I was the only one affected and no else complained about the lack of grip.

Guys were zooming through corners and my car didn’t even had the straight line grip it had the day before.

For the GT PRO Spec class in TCS, do any of the current bodies have a clear advantage or disadvantage?

SWEEPS are the spec tires for our local asphalt track. They’re good but unglue themselves in Mod. Do you have the part number for the SWEEPS? Could be a carpet spec. Our LHS carries carpet SWEEPS and a new driver bought a set. He had terrible grip and broke his car that day.

Wow, that’s something to look for, great advice that.

The tires I used are for outdoor - EXX R3, 24mm, 32deg.

IMO not really. They spec motor is so slow that you want to take a nap. 😂 your advance would be in I’m a light weight version of the listed bodies, I think the Mustang and Mercedes have them.!

Thanks! I ended up with a Porsche GT3 and a Ford GT to play with.

Next question, does anyone have a good starting setup for black carpet? It will have oil shocks, oil diff, and either spool or putty diff in front and start out on Jaco Blues.

Is the gear cover a required item for TCS? I’m thinking of building one for the wife to run in the novice class and figured I’d ask in advance.

I keep everything TCS legal for obvious reasons

Yes it is required

Other than it simply covering the spur gear, it also functions to support the top of the motor mount and retain the rear prop shaft bearing.
Even if you wanted to omit it, there is no TCS legal option part that substitutes for those other functions.

Its too bad Tamiya doesn't make an optional blue aluminium or carbon fiber piece to hold down the rear prop shaft bearing and eliminate the rear cover. This would make it easier to tech at TCS events to make sure folks are running the correct pinion and spur gear. Plus it would reduce weight ...LOL :lol:

without it, the bearing for spur gear and input shaft cup, will not be secure. Any brace or cover you come up with to hold it in place would be considered illegal. So you would need to run it

The following link is for an aftermarket piece that replaces the spur gear cover on the TT02. This part IS NOT TCS LEGAL

https://www.thercracer.com/2020/07/t...ear-cover.html

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There is no real benefit to removing the spur gear cover on the TT-02 unless you are running classes such as USGT or VTA where small spurs and large pinions are being used with brushless motors.

Here is a link discussing how to modify the stock TT-02 gear cover when racing those classes. Please note that this link discusses using aftermarket parts and the modifications to the spur gear cover IS NOT TCS LEGAL.

https://www.thercracer.com/2014/04/t...ta-blinky.html

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Here is a link to a great guide for club racing a TT-02. It shows most? of the available upgrades the chassis. If you have no plans on racing a TT-02 in a TCS race or running in a class that uses TCS Rules, it contains some great info.

https://www.thercracer.com/2014/08/t...-and-tips.html

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FYI: I am not affliated with The RC Racer or that website. However I have found this website very useful when upgrading my TT-02 chassis.

Hope this information helps.

Thanks guys…figured I’d ask those in the know.

new Carson Deck is nice but the 5th screw cant be mount on Type S, SR and SRX because the aluminum steering would touch the connection tower... when finding a solution I will post ist (TEC conform, just Tamiya and Carson parts)
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...9601cd3b96.jpg
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...8691b4db3f.jpg
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...5651f80cbb.jpg

Here is a link to the Carson TT02/TT02S upper deck (https://www.carson-modelsport.com/ca...-en.html?wse=1) and a link to the pdf manual...

https://cdn.simba-dickie-group.de/do...arbon_Deck.pdf

The simple solution to using the "5th screw" on the Carson TT-02 carbon upper desk is to swap out Tamiya 54965 (https://www.tamiyausa.com/shop/optio...-steering-set/) with either the stock plastic parts or Tamiya 54574 & Tamiya 54575 or Tamiya 54752 (https://www.tamiyausa.com/shop/optio...cing-steering/)

If you check out the following page, you can see a TT02S kit with TRF419 suspension with the basic TT-02 aluminum steering installed (https://www.thercracer.com/2020/03/u...02-type-s.html)

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The issue with with using an upper deck when using Tamiya 54965 steering is that of the 2 upper decks I've seen, they use the front bearing cover holes to mount the stand-offs to the upper deck. Here is a different design upper deck where you can see everything installed. (https://www.thercracer.com/2019/06/t...-top-deck.html)

The obvious solution would be to either redesign the front part of these aftermarket upper decks so that the stand-offs connect where the steering arms connect to the chassis. In the case of the Carson deck, you would just need to design a different/wider carbon fiber piece for the "5th screw" instead of redesigning the whole upper deck. You might also need to redesign/shorten the stand-offs.

I do not have an upper deck for my TT-02s kits, but I do have the Tamiya 54965 steering and it is better because it has very little bump steer through the entire suspension travel.

Here is a pic of the steering on my car from the top that shows how the newer steering bridge ends up over the screw for the front bearing cover...
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...96ea8d9553.jpg

Check out the top deck in this picture of an HPI Pro 4 car. You can see how the top deck connects above the steering arms. This is what I mean you could do with either a redesigned TT-02 top deck (or redesign the "5th screw" cross brace on the Carson deck)

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...fe785e434c.jpg


Here is a link to the HPI Pro4 thread here on RCTECH...

https://www.rctech.net/forum/electri...ispreloading=1

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Oh and in case people new to haven't seen how far someone can take a TT-02, check out the TT02-KR thread here on RCTECH...

https://www.rctech.net/forum/electri...-tt-02-kr.html

There might be a new deck coming very soon ;)