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First of all let me say thank you so much everybody for your quick responses!
Sorry about the missing screws. I had chassis brace I printed that I took off to make sure it wasn't introducing tweak. The problem persist with the screws installed. This car is far from clapped out. It doesn't even have two packs through it yet and it hadn't been crashed until my latest test run, I traction rolled flinging it around trying to assess the handling on my hill. Oops! Before that it's only been on the track one time and it let me down and I parked it. I thought it was due to the shorty pack upsetting balance but it wasn't. This car is typical to me cheap car sloppy, but sloppy never really makes a whole lot of difference in my experience. I've spent hours and hours shimming things on other cars to perfection only to have them drive the same. You probably wouldn't believe my shim collection if I told you. The rear diff grease is extremely light, if I spend one wheel in the back they will counter rotate for almost 1 second. I would call it more lubed then greased up. I enjoy loose rear diffs that keep the cars from stepping out because they unload the inside tire. Interestingly after that roll which was not wimpy and I didn't have a body on it it now has zero degrees camber on the front right and the same 1.5 on the left front. I gave it a huge bunch of twists both ways and the chassis doesn't seem tweaked I think I bent the knuckle. If it really needs a new chassis and new arms already I'm over it. The guys that are racing these crash like crazy, but I've never driven their cars and most of them don't have a ton of experience, they may not care/notice about different cornering left and right. When I'm watching The other guys it does seem like when they corner hard and get on the gas early it can get a little sideways or a lot sideways both ways. Even a Scandinavian flick will barely make it spin to the right. |
TT-02 Spins to CCW, pushes CW
Here's the behavior. Grrrr.
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TT-02 Spins to CCW, pushes CW
Here's the behavior.
Before this run I swapped tires and shocks locations, as well as swap the rear axles side to side, and hexes front to rear rear to front. Grrrr. |
In my experience these cars tend to unload the rear too easily in a lot of situations. I realize that doesn’t help determine why yours is doing this in one direction but not the other. I typically run Tamiya stiff springs in front and medium in the rear. Try adding some internal limiters to the rear shocks to see if that helps. I didn’t catch it in your original post but do you have a bearing kit in the car? I’m wondering if using the stock bushings you’re getting some weird binding under the weight of cornering…but just throwing ideas around. These cars are barely more than toy grade, and I say that as someone who loves the tt02 for what it is. Sometimes they just behave a little funny and you have to find ways to compensate, maybe just bumping up the ride height a hair on one side if it helps, or dialing back steering in one direction to prevent oversteer, even loosening up bulkhead screws or steering rack screws a smidge. I’d take it back to the track to run it on a prepped surface with prepped tires and just spend some time figuring out how to get it driving to your liking.
One more thing, you’re not using the stock servo saver right? I can’t tell for certain in the photo. |
Did this rear stepping out just start happening?
Shaft driven cars are know to have on power torque steer due to the nature of rotating mass and the way the TT02's diffs are setup. Also the Traxxas 550 motor is very torquey down low, maybe tune your radio for more negative expo? |
My guess is the 12T motor is amplifying a behavior that isn't as bad with less powerful motors.
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Your throttle inputs have to be way smoother than that, and you need to test the car on a prepared track surface...Also try a little bit of chassis rake: front 5mm rideheight and rear 6.5mm...
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I appreciate you guys responding!
I completely understand about the throttle inputs. I'm only going so aggressive to show that it simply doesn't spin out to the right no matter what I do. The spin-out problem makes itself known on the track in tight corners with smooth throttle on exit and in fast corners on the edge of traction. I can't carry nearly as much speed to the left without spinning out as I can to the right. I've run VTA with some state champ VTA guys and I do okay, I'm definitely able to drive the car properly during a race. I do have a bearing kit in it and an aluminum servo arm. I used shoulder screws and washers to get proper drag arm alignment with the servo horn. It is possible this is due to the Traxxas motor and the torque coupling, but I have plenty of other shaft drive cars of different scales with brushless motors and I don't see this pronounced an effect. These are definitely just a step above toy grade as far as sloppiness I agree. This isn't a knock on Tamiya, my very first car was a grasshopper in 1985. 40 years later my daughter got to build the same kit! The class I'm racing this in is a plastic tub chassis class. We all run the Traxxas 12 turn and yokomo 28A's. Outside of that there are no rules. I just ordered a yokomo RS 2.0. it's the most traditional four-wheel drive belt touring car I can find with a plastic chassis. I have a feeling this is going to make all my tto2 problems go away. 😉 |
Which TT-02 kit? What upgrades or hop-ups on the car?
Couple of things come to mind... - Did you use trim or subtrim to center the steering servo? Are you using adjustable turnbuckles on the steering? You may not have centered your steering properly either mechanically or in the radio which might be giving you too much turning. If your radio supports, check your EPA (end point adjustments). Also you want to use SUBTRIM to finely adjust the servo as using trim can cause more steering in one direction vs the other. If you only have Trim on your radio, then it is very import to make sure you mechanically adjust the steering as close to centered & symmetrical as possible. - Is the car balanced side to side? Set the car down on a flat level surface. Use a round tool such as hex driver/thin Philips screwdriver/hobby knive to lift the rear of the car under the centerline of the chassis until both tires are off of the ground. Does the car want to lean to one side or the other? - Have you checked droop or the down travel of the suspenion? It seems like when you are turning left the left rear tire might be lifting or not maintaining enough contact with the pavement. Is the left rear suspension traveling down as far as the right rear suspension. If there is a mechanical issue prevent the left rear suspension, this could cause this behavior. - You cross weight/corner weights look off in your earlier post. It looks like you don't have enough weight on your Right Front & Left Rear. If you are using adjustable shock collars, I would at least add a thin shock collar spacer to the right front (or adjust the threaded shock collar). This will help prevent the right front suspension collapsing so much during left turns under power. - Did you measure the springs to see if they are the same length and/or spring weight? You mentioned swapping shocks, but did you keep the springs on the same corners or move those as well? If you swap the springs from LR to RR and vice versa and the problem follows the spring, there may be an issue with the springs. |
I would also check the diffs. Make sure nothing is binding or too loose.
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Originally Posted by IndyRC_Racer
(Post 16187419)
Which TT-02 kit? What upgrades or hop-ups on the car?
Couple of things come to mind... - Did you use trim or subtrim to center the steering servo? Are you using adjustable turnbuckles on the steering? You may not have centered your steering properly either mechanically or in the radio which might be giving you too much turning. If your radio supports, check your EPA (end point adjustments). Also you want to use SUBTRIM to finely adjust the servo as using trim can cause more steering in one direction vs the other. If you only have Trim on your radio, then it is very import to make sure you mechanically adjust the steering as close to centered & symmetrical as possible. I centered with subtrim. ATV is 64/62. Physical turn circle is with 1/2" measured on flat ground. Approximately 6ft diameter ( I don't really care about the size, I mark both left and right distance from a fixed wall and then adjust the tighter circle direction out to meet the wider circle direction. This prevents going into travel bind. Horn is in the correct spot. Zero binding. No epa buzzing. The car takes off/drives/backs up perfectly straight from left turn or right turn. - Is the car balanced side to side? Damn near perfect. See the scales picture. Better than most my X-ray are. Cross weight is 50/50. F/R weight is 47/53. F/R is 11g (3%) heavier than the F/L. L/R is 1.6g heavier than R/R. Set the car down on a flat level surface. Use a round tool such as hex driver/thin Philips screwdriver/hobby knive to lift the rear of the car under the centerline of the chassis until both tires are off of the ground. Does the car want to lean to one side or the other? - Have you checked droop or the down travel of the suspenion? Droop is non adjustable but is very even when measured on my Arrowmax setup station on glass. The shocks are with.05mm in length. Double checked. It seems like when you are turning left the left rear tire might be lifting or not maintaining enough contact with the pavement. Is the left rear suspension traveling down as far as the right rear suspension. If there is a mechanical issue prevent the left rear suspension, this could cause this behavior. - You cross weight/corner weights look off in your earlier post. It is very close. I tried using the thin preload spacer on the R/F to cause a little more push on left turns and the car pulled to the side under acceleration and it didn't stop the cornering issue. It looks like you don't have enough weight on your Right Front & Left Rear. If you are using adjustable shock collars, I would at least add a thin shock collar spacer to the right front (or adjust the threaded shock collar). This will help prevent the right front suspension collapsing so much during left turns under power. - Did you measure the springs to see if they are the same length and/or spring weight? I swapped complete shocks. I swapped axles. I swapped hexes. I went circular on the swap corners, so L/F became R/F, etc. You mentioned swapping shocks, but did you keep the springs on the same corners or move those as well? If you swap the springs from LR to RR and vice versa and the problem follows the spring, there may be an issue with the springs. |
Front is a spool. Rear is very loose and smooth with only a little grease.
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tt-01 or tt-02 for spec racing....
i know this has been debated and its always seems to be a toss up. i to plan to do testing myself between the 2 as im going to be doing a 1000 lap enduro. its a box stock class except for the following: bearings alum motor mount 30/40mm fan gravity (ride) usgt tires cvd axles in the front track layout looks to favor larger sweeping right turns. where left turns, one is a sweeping 90 degree and 2 tight 180. its looks to be on black crc carpet, so grip should be good max battery is 8000mah but i think tekin 6200mah (280 gram) batteries are going to be used. stock gearing is used for tt-01 and tt-02 meaning the tt-02 has a slightly better fdr at 8.27 vs 8.35 im unsure if there is a min weight or not. if there is a min weight, its going to be 1450grams im leaning toward the tt-02 but the tt-01 i understand to be a slightly more competitive car. i like to know what your take is in all this additionally cause i havent checked but hoping some people know, for a stock chassis, what is the rear toe on a tt-01 and tt-02? i have a feeling its like none |
I believe the tt-02 has a slight gear ratio advantage.
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Originally Posted by ajgkirkwood
(Post 16190288)
tt-01 or tt-02 for spec racing....
additionally cause i havent checked but hoping some people know, for a stock chassis, what is the rear toe on a tt-01 and tt-02? i have a feeling its like none |
Originally Posted by ajgkirkwood
(Post 16190288)
tt-01 or tt-02 for spec racing....
Alot of guys at my track were TT01e believers for a long time, until I was able to shim out the slop of the TT02. Once my steering was more predictable I took a couple of podiums before our track shutdown. Now the TT01e is a bit more robust when it comes to hits with barriers and pipes, but I also strengthened the front steering knuckles on my TT02 by using a longer screw on the upper and lower portions. |
Originally Posted by TonysScrews
(Post 16174532)
For the TCS race at 180 Raceway I ran the Gens Ace Redline 2.0 6500mah battery and my car was the fastest GT ProSpec there, just not the driver...LOL :lol:. I qualified 3rd and was very close to the front two runners but screwed up in the main and fell back. But if you are running GT ProSpec and following the 1400g minimum weight rule then the way to go is a full size pack that gets the car to the minimum 1400g. The bigger packs have lower IR's and much less voltage drop off.
If you don't have a weight limit rule, then run the shorty pack to the rear. Before the implemented the 1400g minimum weight rule by GT ProSpec was under 1200g with the small shorty pack. Would you happen to have a discharger? I would be interested to know what voltage the GensAce 6500 pack has after a 2000mAh discharge at a given high amperage (40A for example). Or if someone else can provide this kind of info... Tnx in advance :-) Eric. |
Does anyone have a good setup for parking lot racing with mostly stock tt02
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Originally Posted by ericmo
(Post 16190719)
Hello TonyScrews,
Would you happen to have a discharger? I would be interested to know what voltage the GensAce 6500 pack has after a 2000mAh discharge at a given high amperage (40A for example). Or if someone else can provide this kind of info... Tnx in advance :-) Eric. |
Originally Posted by wallstreet
(Post 16190925)
Does anyone have a good setup for parking lot racing with mostly stock tt02
Biggest thing is shim the suspension arms so there's less slop but no binding. I reinforced the front upper and lower sections with a longer screw to prevent the knuckle from snapping. CVDs on the front with cups (Yeah racing). Trim the limiters. (see attachments). Use really thick grease in the front diff (I use Lucas Red and Tacky). And keep the rear diff empty and clean. Flip the shocks upside-down and add some Red & Tacky. And use the Rakiri body. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...c154af0e10.png https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...516d06bbc9.png https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...898024bd16.png |
Originally Posted by TonysScrews
(Post 16191014)
TCS voltage is 8.44v and if I recall my car tech'd at 8.43v. After 3 warm-up laps and the 5 minute main, my voltage on that Gen's Ace 6500 was 8.20v. Previously, I ran the 6500 R1 Wurks pack and both the 6500 and 6700 LRP packs and the Gen's Ace had the least voltage drop-off. The IR on the Gen's Ace was 1.0 to 1.1 on my Junsi 458 Duo and RC Discharger combo. The R1 Wurks pack was around the same IR and the LRP packs around 1.2 to 1.3.
I'm still in the novice-phase and have cheap lipo's. I guess at some point I will need the higher end ones. But first I need to practice more. The biggest gain lies there fore the moment ;-) |
Originally Posted by ericmo
(Post 16191216)
Tnx for your reply! Did you do something special to like high charge/discharge cycle before that? Or do the Gens Ace have such low IR out of the box?
I'm still in the novice-phase and have cheap lipo's. I guess at some point I will need the higher end ones. But first I need to practice more. The biggest gain lies there fore the moment ;-) |
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Originally Posted by disaster999
(Post 16195614)
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Originally Posted by chjosi
(Post 16195618)
17.5, for serious? Can you share more build details? The shaft, bearing holders, shocks, etc.?
And yes, 17.5T, thats how we roll here. Running ~3.5FDR right now but the people here are all running 4.0FDR so gonna switch it up. |
Originally Posted by disaster999
(Post 16195620)
Pretty much threw a bunch of MTTR parts on the car, relocated upper link mount, sway bar, downstop plate, shorty battery holder, front and rear shaft bearing mount, motor mount, and floating servo mount. Tamiya steering link and the shocks from the TA08 since Im not running that car at the moment. carbon shaft is from 3racing
And yes, 17.5T, thats how we roll here. Running ~3.5FDR right now but the people here are all running 4.0FDR so gonna switch it up. |
Originally Posted by addicted2blue
(Post 12382276)
Here are some pictures of my fresh painted Ferrari 458 body for my TA06 PRO, TA05R and my TT-02.
No decals used only paint, will be testing the body this wknd. http://i946.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps4a973025.jpg http://i946.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps807976a1.jpg http://i946.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps9984a0cf.jpg http://i946.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps165f8854.jpg |
Originally Posted by chjosi
(Post 16195714)
Indoor or outdoor? What surface?
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Won our club's spec TT-02 with my SRX 21.5T blinky with spec 4.7 FDR during our annual Nationals event this past weekend.
Things I've learned.
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...590541979b.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...ae972aa0d.jpeg |
Originally Posted by CosmoM3
(Post 16196017)
Won our club's spec TT-02 with my SRX 21.5T blinky with spec 4.7 FDR during our annual Nationals event this past weekend.
Things I've learned.
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i been trying to find info but cant find anything either on forums or searching the web. it might have been answered but i just cant find. im going to be doing a 1000 lap enduro that is near box stock tt-01/tt-02 base kits. cars are using stock gearing on silver can motors so they wont be fast. im goign to be using a tt-02 chassis with the porshe 992 body (251 wheel base) the body comes with the wing but im wondering if i should us it or not. my car is going to be over the min weight of 1450 grams so to add a wing that might do nothing will just add weight, raise COG and the wing stand offs could break. does anyone have experience with tamiya stock/basic kits where they ran with/without the wing and did you notice a difference or no? i dont want to put holes in the body for the wing if i can avoid it
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I just measured the painted wing and associated hardware from my 992 body and it was just under 12 grams. At silver can speeds, I really don’t think there’s going to be any aerodynamic benefit, so if you want to save the weight, you might as well leave if off.
I competed in a 4 hour TT-02 enduro a few months ago. The rules were basically box stock TT-02s with some minor allowances for durability (bearings, plastic Tamiya oil dampers, etc.). It was amazing how close the racing was. Between 1st and 2nd it was 3 laps, and between 4th and 5th it was 1 lap. It was critical you had a good battery swap strategy and process. Also, over the 4 hours, multiple cars had assorted broken parts. It was important to have spare parts / tools ready to quickly get back out on track. They also had the coolest trophies! https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...a77d1e031d.jpg |
What steering rack is in the pics of the 2 cars above?
part numbers please for all parts needed. Thanks |
Originally Posted by Samich
(Post 16200557)
I just measured the painted wing and associated hardware from my 992 body and it was just under 12 grams. At silver can speeds, I really don’t think there’s going to be any aerodynamic benefit, so if you want to save the weight, you might as well leave if off.
I competed in a 4 hour TT-02 enduro a few months ago. The rules were basically box stock TT-02s with some minor allowances for durability (bearings, plastic Tamiya oil dampers, etc.). It was amazing how close the racing was. Between 1st and 2nd it was 3 laps, and between 4th and 5th it was 1 lap. It was critical you had a good battery swap strategy and process. Also, over the 4 hours, multiple cars had assorted broken parts. It was important to have spare parts / tools ready to quickly get back out on track. They also had the coolest trophies! https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...a77d1e031d.jpg |
We had a 1/10 scale 24 hour enduro several years back. My team and I did some brainstorming with the rules we had. But then I came down with COVID the week of our enduro and never got a chance to try our ideas.
1) Go light as possible. 2) bigger battery means less pit stops. Also balances the car better than lighter battery. 3) have many many spare parts 4) practice battery changes under pressure - in our case we screamed at the person changing batteries :) 5) keep the motor COOL with fans - the torque tuned motors liked to be cold 6) slow and steady wins the race 7) reinforce the front steering knuckles with longer screw. I think the kit calls for 10mm we used 12mm. |
Originally Posted by fat500
(Post 16200569)
What steering rack is in the pics of the 2 cars above?
part numbers please for all parts needed. Thanks https://www.tamiyausa.com/shop/optio...-steering-set/ |
Yes it works great
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Originally Posted by Raman
(Post 16200753)
54965, it’s designed for the Type S/SR/SRX. Don’t think it will work on the standard suspension
https://www.tamiyausa.com/shop/optio...-steering-set/ My bridge that goes over the front gear box was ever so slightly bent when I got hit by a less experience driver and when turning it would ever so slightly get stuck on the gearbox. |
Originally Posted by MikeTKD
(Post 16200620)
We had a 1/10 scale 24 hour enduro several years back. My team and I did some brainstorming with the rules we had. But then I came down with COVID the week of our enduro and never got a chance to try our ideas.
1) Go light as possible. 2) bigger battery means less pit stops. Also balances the car better than lighter battery. 3) have many many spare parts 4) practice battery changes under pressure - in our case we screamed at the person changing batteries :) 5) keep the motor COOL with fans - the torque tuned motors liked to be cold 6) slow and steady wins the race 7) reinforce the front steering knuckles with longer screw. I think the kit calls for 10mm we used 12mm. |
Originally Posted by ajgkirkwood
(Post 16200901)
lol of course in practice last night i snapped a steering knuckle (and i ordered in 12mm screws yesterday too haha) i did have a thought though if i should drill out the hole so i can put a longer screw that goes right to the inner diameter of the knuckle opening. so i can put like a 14mm screw in
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