Thanks "simple"! This what I thought, that the bumper holder has to be cutted and is not really stable anymore afterwards...

Are there any setups available for the SRX for carpet or asphalt?

On petitrc.com is nothing...

I run with a TT02 SRX will all the Tamiya available options (SSBB+ shocks with PSM related carbon shock towers, #54651 (alu upper arm mount), #54965 (alu steering set long), #54977 (alu servo mount), as well as all the lightweight bits related to the transmission), and I also use the YR alu adjustable motor mount (TT02-013BU), and titanium screws.

I run on a large flowing track, low to mid-low grip, with a HW Xerun V3.1 (boost timing to 20 - 25° just to avoid sleeping in the straight) and a Reedy Sonic Mach 2 21.5t (endbell timing to 31°) ; this should probably give me the same speed as a more modern 21.5t motor, but still lacking some power. IP 8400 LiPo long stick (certainly too heavy but I manage to run almost 20min like so). FDR around 4 to 4.5 and the use of a 40x40mm fan on the motor. Tyres are Hudy 36 (#803062), body is a Zoo Racing Gorilla Max (just because I like the style of this, but I've tried with an old PF Mazda Speed 6 and it worked even better).

Setup wise, here is what I managed to achieve after several testings :
Front
- droop : 5.4mm (measured with shocks mounted, and adjusted by putting shims between the piston and the shock body onto the shock axle)
- spring : SMJ 3.1
- Shock oil : 500cst
- Shock position top : 2nd hole from the top of the damper stay
- Shock position down : Tamiya 54943 in position C (i.e. : the most outward or closer to the wheel side)
- Camber : 1°
- Roll center : 1mm shim under the ball on the inner side / 0,5mm under the ball on the outer side (wheel side)
- Toe : 1°
- Ackerman : 1mm shim
- 1mm each side between wheelhubs and tyres
- Ride height : 5.4mm
- Spool

Rear
- droop : 4.6mm (measured with shocks mounted, and adjusted by putting shims between the piston and the shock body onto the shock axle)
- spring : SMJ 2.9
- Shock oil : 425cst
- Shock position top : 2nd hole from the bottom of the damper stay
- Shock position down : Tamiya 54943 in position C (i.e. : the most outward or closer to the wheel side)
- Camber : 2°
- Roll center : 2,5mm shim under the ball on the inner side / 0,5mm under the ball on the outer side (wheel side)
- Toe : 2.5° (flat, no skid angle)
- Ride height : 5.7mm
- Gear diff filled with 5k cst


For indoor, I've only run with a basic setup but the car was very good as well. It depends of course of the track grip level (I would say mine was high-mid to low-high). I've run with RCK28 tires and Ride 32 tires (same as for fronties at the ETS). Shock oil was 425cst everywhere and I used lower rate springs as well (to allow the car roll more, i.e. : Tamiya SSBB springs green F/R or red F / green R depending on the grip level at the front). Lower roll center as well at the rear (meaning less shim below the camber link on the "bulkhead" side). If I remember well, the front shocks were a bit more angled (i.e. : 2nd hole from the bottom of the damper stay). Of course, the main impact is tyres.

Hope this helps !
Regards
Jeremy

Tested again the above setup on the same track but in much colder conditions (air / track temp wise) and I can confirm this works pretty well indeed !

Its only a bumper mount - stability should be inconsequential assuming you mount the body posts from the shock tower as in the instructions.

Thank you Jeremy!

Based on the setup above, what change can I bring in order to gain more "free" speed within high speed turns ?
Indeed, my car with the above setup is able to turn into high-speed corner at full speed, but struggles to maintain its speed : I can litteraly see the car slowing down throughout the corner (I'd say starting from end of entry / begining of mid-corner) even if I'm full gaz on the radio still (no slight slow down nor braking input). A fellow racer with a Schumacher Mi8 was able to carry much more speed than me within the same corner whereas he got the same top speed at the end of the straight than myself and he full speed turned in as well.

Thanks for your ideas !
G-rem

You'll never be able to adjust the car to carry the same speed in a corner as an Mi8. The true measure of a race car is its ability to change direction, not straight line speed.
What you are sensing is likely the affect of the structural and component flex of the predominantly plastic car you are driving. The plastic chassis will flex so much with the corner forces that it will cause the tires to grip more and scrub speed.
That's the fundamental performance gap between an inexpensive plastic chassis kit and a full performance race kit with carbon fiber and aluminum components.

That could be, but my SRX is equipped with the TRF420 suspension, SSBB+ dampers,... Basically, the main tub is indeed plastic (hard version), but if it really is the reason why I loose so much speed going full gaz into the corner, then I'm a bit surprised (and disappointed) :sweat:

I wonder how much chassis flex is eliminated by an aftermarket carbon fiber chassis brace (that attaches to the diff cases)?

In my opinion it may be a good idea for the standard chassis. The hard chassis bathtub (e.g. in the R or SRX versions) don't need it. Even not on high grip carpet...

Wheels
 

Finished the wheels for an upcoming TT02 project that will have a BMW M1 Procar body by Carson in Germany.

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...2f10ab649.jpeg
Didn’t like the “toy car” looking chrome on the stock wheels-fixed that with flat clear on the rims.
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...087f27466.jpeg

oooo LaLa gonna have to check out Carson for that? Gotta a link

Went to buy another to do a Jäegermeister version but no luck-it’s no longer available-I bought the one I have almost 2 years ago on ebay. 😟

Yesterday I made a comparison between the Tamiya TRF421, the Associated TC8 and the TT-02 SRX.
The SRX was extremly close to the high end cars, but the lap times with these were a tenth faster and a little
more consistent.
Not bad looking at the price difference...

By the way, all three were equipped with the same body (BD Eptron), motors, tires, batteries...

Mind sharing pictures & setup ? :)

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...14805e51d7.jpg
This is my SRX.

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...7c3b7f3517.jpg
... and here is the setup sheet for this test and shootout.

I hope that I can give it the next try at the first October weekend.

Hi there,

here is my setup for a TT02 SRX fully hopped-up for a large outdoor asphalt flowing track : https://site.petitrc.com/reglages/ta...avez_20250921/

Feel free to reach if any question :)
G-rem

Guys got a question on my tt02R I have been running it a lot for tcs and now that tcs is over we have a super gt class that I am running it in, we run the the hobbywing just stock 21.5 setups in them blickey and fixed timing. we are required to run the ride 2426 tires (so not sure what shore rating is). I have some upgrades on the car, Tamiya universals on front and rear, Trf shocks (30mm length to get ride height at 5.5mm), also has carbon fiber shock towers, and carbon driveshaft.

My setup now is 5.5mm ride height, 40wt oil in shocks front and rear, yellow springs on all 4 corners, 2.5 degrees of toe in rear, and 1 degree of toe out up front, 1 degree of camber all the way around, 500,000 in front diff and tamiya AW in rear diff. Gearing is 64p 74t spur, 55t pinion

The problem I am having is car is hopping in rear on corner entry and not sure what I should do to fix it. I know with my mini z experience when they hop in the rear you can usually fix by softening up the rear, not sure if it will do the same on the tt02. Any help would be much appreciated, and please just let me know if you need any mor info on my setup.

Thanks Rick

lighter oil and lower ride height to start? I use front spool and 3k diff oil out back.

do you have a shock limiting spacer inside the shocks?

more camber?
try 2* ..... youre probably bouncing off the side wall tire edge of the harder compound.

what are the newest shock available for TT02 SRX please provide a part number as well. Thank You

I use the super short big bores but you’ll also need SSBB towers as well, Psm and mttr both make them

what would happen if i didn't get the shock towers...does Tamiya make the correct towers?

you can flip the stock towers I believe but you will lose the body mounts. Use other mounts

Im using SSBB shocks with the stock SRX shock towers and they fit fine. Granted I have to change the ball cups to the longer one and didnt thread it all the way in to create the length needed. I used the spring spacers that came with the kit as well as the SSBB springs are too short and you will run out of thread backing out the preload trying to get the correct ride height.
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...2ef6599485.png

try these tips, flip the towers
https://www.thercracer.com/2020/03/u...02-type-s.html

it might work running it upside down, but that leaves little to no room for tuning options. You are pretty much locked into 1 or 2 shock position before needing to lengthen the shock to get the correct travel

Which of the current top (NON-Tamiya) bodies, fit well on the TT-02 for carpet racing.
Regular TT-02 with plastic shock towers, that is. (rules: basic TT-02 with limited options though body "free").
I figured the front shock tower might limit setting the body low enough, with current high-end bodies having bit of low(er) hood/bonnet.

Fi Twister Speciale, Zooracing Wolverine (Max), or Pantera, BD Eptron...etc...

Appreciate the advise.

The Panterra would be the best for high shocktowers and big front bumper like mine, but you'll need to mount it way forward with as low a front lip as possible to cover the bumper...

First time putting a TT02 together , but have built many other kits. Im at the front end and this video should show the slop Im questioning. Is it normal? How do I fix it...or does it get fixed in a later step?

https://youtu.be/VwUfejN57C4?si=678Trh8BsVscDljX

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Completely normal, you'll have much less movement when the diff gear is in. 👍 Also once it's together you want some movement as the chassis has flex.

Hey squad, just wanted to give a heads up on some ceramic bearing I have available: https://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-ite...-5-5x11x4.html.

I'm not super familiar with the TT02. I looked at the manual, but it appears that Tamiya give part numbers for bearings and bushing, but not the actual dimensions. Anyway, they are up for grabs.

Tamiya do actually give the actual dimensions of the bearing if you look closely. Build enough tamiya kits and you will start to pick up on their nomenclatures.

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...a77bc1711e.png

1280: 12mm OD 8mm ID
1150: 11mm OD, 5mm ID
1050: 10mm OD, 5mm ID

The only thing the dont give is the thickness of the bearing, but you can assume all of them are 4mm thick unless other wise stated like the 1050 bearing shown above.

Sorry, wrong post..

What do I want in the front....one way, spoiler diff. I want to race my new tt02 in tcs black carpet

Any help wood be great

Spool as a base setup, diff if you want / need more turn-in. One-way is hardly used nowadays.

Will I need different drive axels if i swap them out?