Same axles fit both. However, when running the spool, do not use the plastic dog bone pin covers. You will break the outdrive sooner or later. Instead, use the thin slots on the outdrives with just the pins on the bones.

On the topic of racing seriously a TT02 (in my case the SRX version, in the TamiyaCup champ. in Belgium), I hesitate to test the shorty configuration in order to make the car a lot less heavy. For now, I'm using a long pack 8400mAh IP battery. When I built the car, I weighted the electronic side of the car (i.e. : motor (incl. motor mount), fan, esc, RX, servo (incl. one-piece alu servo holder),...) and it came around a bit more than 300g (330g I believe).

My motor (spec) weights around 178gr. So I'm thinking using an IP shorty 5000mAh (around 173g) at the rear to replicate the motor weight distribution at battery side. I also consider putting the ESC in front of the battery to compensate the servo. In theory, this should lead to a correct L/R balance (almost).

I've read everything related to battery size in the TT02 and I'd like to get some advice from those running this car. What are the pro's / con's of both configurations ? Why would you prefer one over the other ?

Thanks for the experience sharing !
G-rem

Ive ran the car with electronics on one side and shorty battery on the other and the motor side is almost always going to be heavier. I put the car on balancing pins and deliberately tilt the car to the battery side just to watch it teeter back to the electronic side. Im not running super light weight battery, a big or heavy ESC or have heavy gauge wire either. Just a Hobbywing XR10 stock spec with 16awg wires and a 5500mah battery weighing around 200g.

After moving the ESC over next to the motor and having the battery up front the balance is more even left to right.

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...e96ee89490.png

Thanks Disaster, meaningful input.
Did you try to put the shorty battery at the most rear position and the ESC in front ? What difference in behaviour does that make ?

After posting my previous message, I've weighted the electronic again and it came up at 340g whereas my long pack IP 8400mAh battery is 335g, so almost perfectly balanced. However, like so, the car weights in total more than 1.4kg without the body.

I know a shorty will not be able to deliver the same power output as long as a normal long pack. Especially for stock racing 17.5t. However, by using a shorty, I can shave up to almost 150g. And I'm leaning towards the "light is right". Moreover, I saw that at the EOS in Daun this past weekend, mod 4x4 drivers were using 4.5t motor with shorty LCG less than 5000mAh for the race. This should be fine then I guess.

Regards
Jeremy

I ran the car with battery on one side and electronics on the other for a while and honestly the car handled fine, MAYBE its a little more sluggish turning left than right but I honestly didnt really care. I was having too much fun just running the car on the track with friends. After moving the ESC to the battery side, the car drove very similar to before, maybe a bit more balanced and easier to drive.

I never tried putting the battery to the rear and having the ESC to the front but keep im mind with motor wires reaching that far, it will undoubtedly tub against the center shaft and cause issues down the line.

With my setup, the car weights under 1100g without the body, and under 1350g with a tamiya body.

I also tried full size lipo (6000mah) and lcg lipo (4600mah) on my stock TT02 for Production. Even tried the lcg lipo with esc on the same side and to me didn't feel right on the track.
Sometimes you have to experiement and see what feels right to you while driving. My times weren't any faster with the lcg lipo and esc on one side compared to just a full size battery. Could it be because the car handled better with a larger battery (also had more mah towards the end of the race).
My Production TT02 felt more planted with more weight on asphalt.

Thanks, that's the usual comment I've read about running the TT02 with a shorty (and thus what makes me hesitate). However, I cannot imagine that 100 -150g less of the total weight will not be an advantage for this car. I guess I will have to try to figure out then. Thanks for the input guys !

Regards
G-rem

Hi G-rem,

I guess that the heavier battery has a higher average voltage. That should easily
compensate for the higher weight (depending on the track).

Aby setup tips for the SRX on asphalt?

Here

For the first time ever, this past weekend, I did some very super casual (TT-02s/TT-01s allowed) outdoor racing. Specs are just a few upgrades, most notable ones were the aluminum steering set, oil differentials, universal arms and drive cups, CVA dampers, aluminum motor mount, running 25T/68T pinion/spur (although others had slightly different gearing). Everyone was using the Torque Tuned Motor. The field was a mixed bag of experience and inexperienced drivers. Recorded 3 races (forgot to hit record on the 4th). Got the videos published today.From my vantage point, it was a bit too low and hard to see all the lines and course markings. Will definitely bring a step stool/ladder for the future. As for driving, if I drove better, I would have finished closer to the top drivers. I think the car handled 90% well, but the rear kept sliding out in power was applied too much after turning. Was good practice and had fun, which is the most important thing.

Any ideas on reducing the rear from sliding out? Currently rear diff is very loose and front diff is fairly stiff, packed with 1M grease, if I recall correctly when I built the car.

Track looks fun? Are you in the SF Bay area? Where and when can i join?

Just pm'ed you

Got it. Thanks!

Yeah Racing Aluminum Rear Hub/Knuckle Arm 2 Degree For Tamiya TT02 That will solve it

Alternatively:
https://www.tamiya.com/english/produ...549/index.html

ALSO
Harder springs in Front - AND/OR - Softer springs in Rear

Went racing at my local club over the weekend. It was the season finale race for points.

In the TT-02 GT Pro Spec class, I hadn't been doing great all season so the points did not matter to me. I just wanted to make sure I had the car dialed in and drove as best as I could. In the finale race, I had a good run most of the way but having an open track ahead made me too careless and the mistakes I made opened the door for someone to start giving chase. I defended as best as I could, but on the final lap, royally screwed myself by cutting a corner too early, thereby losing P4 and ended up P6 in that race. Other than that, I was pleased with the way the car handled (converted to short wheelbase) and it means I can now focus more on my driving lines*

*(But next season, our club is going to switch out the Torque Tuned Motor and 29T pinion for Hobbywing 21.5 FTM and 29T pinion so it will be much slower as I've already tested out that spec)

I hope the music (which surprisingly was not flagged) adds to the video of the A-Main below.

TT-02 GT Pro Spec A-Main:

LOL I had to look twice, I had deja vu for a moment and thought I was over at the TamiyaClub again hahaha. Got mine started and finished yesterday, except for the receiver (gets delivered today) and soldering.. Once i get off work and can figure out how I'm going to set it up, then its time for the iron! Hopefully I'll be able finish up my AMG body by this weekend, gotta get some masking supplies and figure out what color still. This thing looks like a piece of cake to cut out after the BBX heh.

Yeah I post in both forums. Tamiya Club because everyone there loves Tamiya, and here on RC Tech because there's so much history and solid information/advice for each chassis.

All my set up is in my Youtube video description, so if you also race on black carpet, you can use my settings as a starting point and then adjust accordingly on your track. Good luck with your build! I remember seeing your thread on Tamiya Club haha.

Going to start running Porsche spec class. Im new to this chassis. I picked one up used im thinking its a TT02-R. I just had a few questions about drive shafts/axles. Which upgrades do I need to run whats in the pictures ill post. Anything close to dcj's up front?

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...b86c6dfd6.jpeg
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...fae5afd3e.jpeg

Go to www.tamiyausa.com/tcs/rules and for the GT Pro Spec Porsche/Ford/Mercedes/Toyota class, there are specific rules and a full list of hop ups allowed under Article 15. DCJ's are NOT one of those hop ups.

Are we positive on that?? I just finished putting the direct coupling in mine last week, along with the oil-filled 2-gear diff (54875) in the back. According to the specs:

Article 15 doesn't really call out the direct coupler on its own, and the list they have at the end is just the 'recommended' hop ups. That sounds to me like its good to go? The packaging even says TT-02 on it.

Typeone - You'll need to buy the following pieces for the universal shafts, 54623 , 51700 , 51444. I picked up the direct drive coupler, the gear diff and the 53792 universals at the same time, then realized I needed to go back and buy those other pieces to make the shafts for the direct drive hah. You don't need to bother with the drive cups though. With the correct universal shafts, both the direct drive and the gear diff just use the cups that come with them.

I didn't say anything about the Direct Coupling. I only mentioned the Double Carden Joints are not on that recommended hop up list. It's best to double check with the local racetrack and see how strict they tech their cars. If it's just at the local club, it might be a little lax, but at a TCS event, I would not take any chances and follow everything outlined in those rules.

Ahh good call. I know you can't use any of the suspension from the SRX (or the S), but I figured the rest of it is just 'hop ups' per the book. I didn't bother as I bought the R so I just left the aluminum joints it came with. I thought it was weird the TT-02BR had the same parts (I thought) but the shaft in that one does use those little plastic wings on it. The TT-02R just goes straight in as is.. I pretty much had most of the stuff on their recommended list already set aside so I should be good to go come June (FINALLY finishing up the body today/tomorrow). Just need to get the springs maybe, but I'm gonna take this over to Revelation to get a head start and practice and see how the stock black springs go before any more money goes into it at this point hah. I think I've already paid 3x the price of the kit, and I'm still waiting for them to announce the chosen tires too.

When I went they said that the only things not allowed were any of the Type S arms, aluminum shocks, carbon towers, any mods to any of the parts (dremeling out stuff) but all other hop ups made for the TT02 were good to go. Before this I was thinking that no hop ups could be used that came out mainly for the S, SR, SRX versions but it was only for the specific items listed.

I use the factory spool and I'm currently building DCJ's for my TCS TT-02R. They are not restricted parts per the rules....not that anyone checks anyway. The only thing I've seen tech'd at the regional level is weight, battery voltage, blinky, and running the HW FTM.

No teching the screw material(only made by tamiya), or paint composition??? Over control to its finest...

No clue what you mean by paint composition, the rules just state the body must be painted.

As far as screws, it's only Tamiya hardware if you end up winning the 'Ticket To Japan'. Otherwise, any manufacturer's steel, aluminum, or titanium screw is allowed.

Can you add part numbers for the front dcj's. Thanks

I meant you'll need to use tamiya paint only ! Make sure it's a 'Tamiya' ticket before boarding the plane...lol...

Nowhere in the rules does it state it has to be any particular brand of paint.. Not that they would even remotely be able to tell unless you came in with some ride that was painted in like Rustoleum Chrome or some color they obviously don't make.

It's called sarcasm.

Is the metal geared diff prefered over the plastic? I accidentally ordered the metal gear version. I'm also running a front spool. I also read earlier in the thread the the Raikiri body is recommended. I currently have the nissan motul gtr body.

I personally prefer the plastic version (22049) over the metal version (54875). It's lighter and does the job well enough. I race carpet with Torque Tuned Motor or Hobbywing 21.5 FTM, so it's not insanely fast. I had the older metal ones from long ago and one of the spider gears became stuck and was a royal pain to pull off.

The Raikiri body is Tamiya's lowest profile touring car body. It's not typically allowed in certain TCS classes such as the GT Pro Spec. But if you are just driving around for fun, it doesn't really matter what body you use.

I graduated from bashing to racing 18 years ago. I have yet to blow the internal plastic gears on a single diff in racing. Metal gears are over kill for onroad. Off road is a different story.

22054 37mm shafts
42220 5x10x3 bearings
42218 DCJ axles
42320 light weight joint casing
42319 - optional lightweight cross joint no pins or retainers
42221- this is the std cross joint set but has the retainer springs and roll pins

So my Benz GT3 TT-02R is finished now, time to get batteries for it.. Are you folks that run the TCS stuff using full size lipos or shorties?? And what mAH would you recommend? I've got a couple of 6500mAH GensAce shorties I use in my RC10B7 but I would need to order some foam to keep them from bashing around in the tray heh. Was thinking to just buy a pair of 6100 full size GensAces for it, but I ran across a lot of pics of folks with 5000mAH in it. Is that going to cut down power in the last bit of the race or does everybody get by with that? Just curious to see what everyone is using and making it through a race with.

R1 5900 200C

Finished my tt02-r build this weekend. I used the Xv-02/Tt-02 spool for the front. On testing out in my driveway, I'm getting real bad wheel hop when turning. Is there something Im missing? Stock diff in the back, oil diff is on order.

Built this is for TCS so all tamiya parts:
tt02-r Kit
oil kit shocks with small spacer
Full steering kit
Adjustable arms
Silver can 540
Tamiya Kit tires
64/29 spur pinion

Tamiya kit tires have very little grip, so I'm surprised you would encounter hopping while turning when driving around on asphalt, which is a very loose surface to begin with. What's your spring set up? You don't want too stiff, and generally slightly softer in the rear for that rear traction. Also, aluminum 2.5 or 3 degree rear hub toe in may help if you don't have those already on.

At my carpet track, we run 5 minutes and I probably use up to roughly 40% of the battery, using a 5000mAH stick pack and for me, it's been pretty consistent with no drop in output towards the end of the heat. Try what you have first and see how much is used after each run, and if there are any noticeable drop in outputs in the last minute of a qualifier or race (which I highly doubt you should encounter).