I'm using the kit springs( so black?). The kit also came the 3.0 rear uprights. I'll pick up the tamiya spring kit and see if that helps. I have not setup the car yet. I threw in a battery and went to make sure it ran. When I saw the wheel hop I stopped in fear of breaking something.

LOL you can say that again. Stock tires, I was out in the street doing some pretty tight donuts and drifting unintentionally all over haha. Ended up trying it with a 6500 shorty. This battery is basically new and never really ran or even charged. Just came out of the box, went into my RC10 to configure the electronics and do its initial run. With the TT-02R, ran out in the street just zipping around for about 10 minutes or so, put the battery sensor cable in and it was still ~3.7/3.8 on both cells. These 6500 shorties actually weigh the same as the 5000/6100mAH full size packs too. I had to improvise and cut a bunch of random foam up to stuff in there to keep it from moving around though. I'm just wondering what the weight balance will be like and if it might throw it off. But then again, now that's its finished, I haven't even weighed it yet to see how close I am to the 1400g heh. Might be overthinking the whole thing, qualifiers are only 5 mins and mains are only 6 heh. Ordered a pair of the 6100s anyway as I need a full size battery with bullets for my BBX now that its got a 13.5T Justock setup in it heh.


Hmm likely something to do with the setup, although mine didnt take much to be honest, just straightening out the toe in on the front turnbuckles (which I still have to tweak a little more). Have almost the same setup, TT-02R with all the recommended hop ups on the list except the TT-02RR steering (Im using the 'regular aluminum set'). Also have the coupler in the front and the steel gear oil diff in the rear. Don't have a camber gauge so I didnt do any setup on the adjustable arms, just set them up as stock and eyeballed them to make sure they're straight heh. Mine's going to run GT Pro Spec so Hobbywing Justock 21.5T motor with the Justock ESC.

Took mine out for its virgin run in the street in front of the house yesterday, smooth as could be on that surface. No hopping, no bounce, nothing. The kit springs aren't that bad, just all the same. When I put the on road springs on, I squeezed them all, the black ones are about halfway between the blue and yellow springs in the hop ups. In fact they felt pretty close to the blue ones. I've got the blue on the front, yellow on the rear, never ran it with the stock springs so not sure how much more those will help aside from letting you adjust the feel between the front/rear.

What other people do at my track is secure (maybe double sided tape?) a block of foam so they can use the shorty lipo batteries. Some even place their ESC in that spot. I recommend getting a corner weight system (in addition to a normal scale - one for baking is good) to weigh your car. You don't need to have exactly 50% 50% left right or roughly 45% front, 55% rear. It's never going to be perfectly balanced. Even a 49% 51% left right difference is going to be anywhere from around 30g-60g difference depending on your car setup. I suppose you can play with the spring tension by placing a different number of collars on the left and right side, but at that point, it's quite negligible. As long as the car tracks straight, and turns properly on the track, it's going to run just fine (because most of the field of TT02s will have the same inherent issues anyways).

On the street, the thing seemed super responsive and even with the still slightly toed in front end, that thing was pretty straight just ripping up and down in the middle of the street. Seemed a bit 'slow' but that could be the tires not really gripping the asphalt heh. If anything its my turning that slid me into the curb a couple of times. :smile: Saturday was club racing day at Revelation, so I couldn't go 'practice' even if I wasn't at home sick with the flu.

I should have the new batteries in another day or so (GensAce's US offices are here in Cali too), so hopefully this weekend I'll head out there and try it on the actual track and see how it goes.

Last week I decided to use my TT02 Type S at an asphalt track. I was too lazy to convert one my TRF421 for asphalt. I managed to get it become consistent by 3rd qauli, only to have a C hub break on me. It was literally the only part I could not find in my spares. So day ended. When I returned home, I noticed I had some 420 style arms, C hubs, uprights etc left over. The only thing that irritates me about these arms is the lack of droop hole. Qatmix, our esteemed friend has designed two carbon plates that can be attached to address this. I however figured I'd look for a more crude route. So I took the TB03 reversible arms:

1. Drilled out the droop screw hole with 3 mm bit
2. Tapped it with 4mm tap
3. Placed the 420 arm on top and screwed a long 4mm screw into both to secure.
4. Ensured arms are parallel and square to each other.
5. Drilled hole through opposite droop screw hole of TB03 onto 420 arm.

Now I have 420 arms compatible with the droop tabs of TT02 type S. Now if only Tamiya had done that for us would have been great.

Hi. This arm drilling has been known for several years - at least since the SRX. There is certainly information about it here on RCTECH.

Does anyone have a fix for the spool on the SRX? Mine keeps breaking, even on the lightest taps. Is there an upgraded version available, or a better option people are running?

I still use the normal TT02 aluminum spool that drops into the stock TT02 differential (part # 54649). I've seen cars at the track use both the XV02(SRX) spool as well as the insert, with some decent hits and no breakages. Which part of the spool are you breaking?

The Cups.

I run the Gens Ace 6100's full size. They are LCG and just the right weight to where I only need to add about 5 grams to make the 1400 minimum weight. You can run shorties, but I've found that balance is better with full size packs.

I'm running TAM22047 without issue. Something you could try is to back your dual rate off just a couple of clicks to just before full lock to provide just a bit of give.

I ended up going with those ones too. Its funny, ordering direct from GensAce, you can only buy singles, but I got a two pack sold by them through Amazon for about $150. They threw a bunch of strips of foam inside the packing box that are about the exact width/length as the full size packs. This stuff was the perfect size, if I had it prior I would've just made a decent block to use my shorties.. It came in handy though, the full size batteries still move side to side a little in the tray, just cut a couple strips and used some of the leftover double sided tape from the body and voila. Now that thing is nice and tight and pops right out when I need it to!

The 6100s are only like 2g heavier than the 5000. Not sure why anyone would bother with those, might as well go with the extra power just to be safe!

Going to try my hand in LMH class with this.

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...d83569b9a2.jpg
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...662b7f2ffb.jpg

Tamiya TT02F announced
 

Here is a little project I have been working on.


I wanted to race in the frontie class at my club, but there wasn’t a suitable Tamiya so I made one. 😎
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...a26e22fe3.jpegThe files are free to download and I will keep tweaking them when I get feedback.


Hope some of you like it https://www.thercracer.com/2026/05/t...oject.html?m=0

🤬

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...fd465c1a43.jpg

Is that the Hyrax?! https://statics.teams.cdn.office.net...20_f.png?v=v36
In my experience, thus far, and outside of the Bwoah, the only LMH body that will properly mount on a TT-02 is the new Bitty 499"T"
The vast majority of the LMH bodies on the market are only compatible with the modern ultra low profile TC chassis that have the shock mounting positions below the the level of the tops of the wheels.
Even my TA08Pro required custom shock towers to get the Hyrax at proper height.
My friend, you were either lead astray, or boldly leaped.

🤣

I had my suspicion it was going to be an issue on the TT02 and considered getting the 599R.. but I am a Porsche man, so I picked up the P963 which I had planned to decorate with the 1997 Mobil 1 livery. I tested it on my TRF421 and the rear body posts remain an issue.. vertically they sit right at the start of the fender curves. Horizontally you need one of those internal drop down carbon mounts. Need to figure out which one.

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...7f4fc00cea.jpg

What about the Montech range?

I looked into SSBB shock towers. Most have the eyelet for the body post. if those were deleted, the body could be dropped an additional 8 to 10 mm.. which would be passable. For rear body posts, you could use the spare bumper on B parts.. and use vertical body posts.
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...bf75cbb36e.jpg

I can't speak to ALL of them, although Montechs marketing does specify "can be mounted on all the latest generation Touring Car chassis".

Its possible there might be a few that happen to clear mechanics of the good'ole TT-02, but I wouldn't bet money on it.
All I'm saying is that I know for a fact that the Hyrax won't clear the shock towers of older design, and thus far, Bitty has been the only company to precisely specify that their LMH 499 "T" body will fit the TT02 without modification or creative tinkering.

Bitty did right to build a TT version of the 599. Maybe they will follow up with the other releases that are coming, eg. Aston, Toyota et.

I asked Bitty about a Porsche 963.. they said they had no plans to do a Porsche..

The track in my area that run LMH are quite big. So the 25.5. motor doesn’t inspire me to dedicate a more advanced chassis to this class.

I picked up the hard chassis this week and was planning on moving everything over and at the same time switching out to hex hardware. I picked up this 520pc 'RC screw kit' awhile back and realized I have most of the screws I need to do it already. Amazon's delivering the suspension pins today, so don't have to worry about those funky screws. So far, the only hold up are the 3x15mm screws that hold in the bumper plates.. I've got some 3x16mm, but is that extra mm going to be too much? Should I be safe and go pick up a few 3x15mm machine screws instead? Don't have any of those hex head screws either but eh those are only for the body posts and the front spindles so I can leave those I guess.

I was about to get started at like 6:30 this morning since I was awake but ran into that while I was looking through the manual and comparing what I had available heh. Didn't want to ruin my new $8 chassis haha.

If the bumper screw is too long, it can create a dimple inside gear box which will rub on the diff ring gear. To be safe you can put a 1 mm washer on the 3x16.

Haha perfect, got a whole bunch of blue AE 1mm and 2mm washers ready to go. :nod: Don't want to risk messing up my oil filled diff and coupler! Ordered a pack of various socket head hex screws too, so now I got the hex head screws covered, those should be here tonight at some point.

Now I got my 3mm and 5mm shims, hard chassis, and a fresh pack of USGT tires (TQ RC was out of the belted ones :cry:). Time to switch over the chassis, get rid of the remaining slop, and go back through and make sure I loctite everything that needs to be this time just to be safe.

Just discovered the Cal Raceway down in Orange last week too. Might have to go pick up a 911 GT3 R body now so I can get some practice in their Porsche class before the TCS at Revelation next month heh.

can a base tt-02 be converted into the tt-02 srx? if so is there a kit to start with or a list of what parts would be needed?

I actually have all the pieces to convert to the SRX, I started to do it then I put all the original TT02 parts back on. I can sell you what I have including the suspension arms, c hubs and knuckles from a TRF419.
dm me and I can send you pics of everything.

Not sure if you are running on asphalt or carpet, but the USGT tires we run on asphalt and the belted USGT tires we run on carpet. If you need the belted ones for carpet, drop me a PM, I have a lot of them.

Ahh I figured maybe the belted ones were just a little 'tougher' and lasted longer? I really wanted the grey edge wheels, but the black ones don't look so bad haha.

This will be all asphalt. I honestly don't think there are any carpet tracks anywhere near here in So Cal, indoor or outdoor. Even Tony's Hobbies, the track is inside the back of the warehouse, its all dirt (but now they wont let you run anything but slicks on it, all my Hole Shots down the drain heh). Its nice for me, I'm old school and like my off-road buggies in the dirt and my TT-02 on a real track.

Should be (mostly) possible, but certainly not worth the money, I'd say.

It's possible. If you really want to do this, go to Tamiya's website to look up all the option parts the SRX offers, and source those parts individually. However, it's much easier to just get the SRX kit and be (mostly) done with hopping up the car.

And then you still have a base TT-02 you can switch around to a rally car and go have fun on dirt, and keep the SRX for the track!

Bookface is quite active with people doing TheRCRacer's TT-02F print & build. Have any of you here tried it yet?

If so, how do you like it?

the quickest route would be;

The TT02 S package for the suspension mounts 54634

https://www.amainhobbies.com/tamiya-...EqKAA2qSmDK3aE

Next you can get the 420 arms upgrade package 54886

https://www.amainhobbies.com/tamiya-...54886/p1141175

Last you would need the TT02S shock towers:

Kit graphite: 4305647, 4305646
carbon: 54362/54363
or after markets one’s

TT-02 911
 

My TT-02 is finished for now. Special thanks to the guy who uploaded the Fuchs wheels to Bambu Studios.https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...afc6685ebb.jpg
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...4918afc01e.jpg
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...28247d9c95.jpg

I am interested in RCRacer's FWD conversion too. Particularly on a TT02 SRX.

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...9db246a2ce.png
unfortunately those are too long, you will never get the right wheel base and Tamiya USA is sold out of the correct ones. I ventured down that path a few yrs ago and the project still sits on my work bench. the only real way to get those is to purchase the SRX kit.

That looks smashing! I have the Carrera RSR that I built a chassis up for but haven't done the body just yet. Those 3d printed Fuchs wheels look spot on, I'd say even better than the tamiya ones

Those in the picture are the correct ones for the Type S series. Not sure why you are saying they are too long. They fit the S, SR and SRX just fine. You are correct that is individual parts they are sold out, but the compete S parts bag is available.

They will function mechanically, but if you're trying to convert a TT-02 to an SRX setup with the intention of using Tamiya bodies, the result isn’t ideal. The wheelbase ends up being too long when using the inserts mentioned earlier—especially when paired with a Tamiya pre-cut body. I went down this path myself, and while it technically fits, it ends up looking off. Trust me—you’ll want to locate the correct inserts shown below for a proper fit, or simply go with an SRX kit..
Whats the part # for the S Parts Bag and is that from the SRX?
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...d25866c9ac.png

Tamiya makes bodies in 257 and 251 wheelbase. Majority of the 1/10 bodies are 257 mm bodies that work with the SRX. There are only a handful of 251s,
mainly the Porsche 911s, new Audi Quattro IMSA. The Mercedes AMG GT3 originally was 257, new version that just dropped is 251 mm.