Thank you for the info, that will help me down the road if I run a non TCS GT Pro Spec race but for this build its not legal to make those changes. It looks like we are stuck with the 64/29 combo. This was just a cheap and easy second class at one of my local tracks.

1. Spur Gears permitted: Tamiya TT-02 stock and TT-02 Tamiya speed-tuned spur gears are allowed. TT-02: Stock 70T, Speed-Tuned 68T and 64T
2. Pinion Gears permitted: Pinion gear ratio options shown in the TT-02 kit and the speed-tuned gear set motor mount chart instruction manuals may be used. Finding ways to exceed the maximum gear ratio shown in the manual charts is not allowed. Maximum gear ratio from the speed tuned gear set: 5.74:1 (64T Spur-29T Pinion)

Oh didn't realize you were going TCS spec... then yes you are pretty limited and far away from desired gearing.

Update on my Box Stock TT02 Kit. I got the Tamiya Raikiri Reg weight body all cut, painted and mounted. In my TC Style One color wonder / sponsor stickers :P

This lid came in at 128 grams ready to go. Versus my GT4 Mustang body of 148 grams, mind you I put more stickers on the mustang but the shape and low CG the Raikiri helps for sure. On track performance on a new layout I had the Mustang body clicking 10.4-10.5 almost every lap and a 10.3 as fast laps. Putting the new lid on I slammed the posts down and sent it out. Right away I could feel a Touring Car type effect and the car was smooth everywhere. I could push it as hard as I wanted and the car was planted with better steering and much less body roll. (Especially on the stock friction shocks). I ended up hitting 10.2 - 10.3 like 20-30 times and fast laps were 10.1's. Over all super happy with this body as far as performance but mainly I love the look of it as well. The body lines on the Raikiri remind me of the older NSX Bodies :)

I may buy a lightweight version in the future just for some quick laps when I feel I want it :P Overall this Stock TT02 has been a blast for me, it's a filler in between my hardcore 17.5 Race car and requires very little to nothing to keep it going.

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...2625af59af.jpg
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...c320e808a3.jpg
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...4a5e835c70.jpg

Not quite true. The high speed gear set also comes in Mod 0.6, not 48dp (and there is no "metric 48dp", it's called "Mod 0.6"). Tamiya always uses metric gears in these kind of cars, either in Mod 0.6 (may look a little like 48dp, but it's not!) or Mod 0.4 (looks a bit like 64dp, but is not - though closer than 0.6/48). Do not mix up these different gears, as they will destroy each other. However, using the speed gear set (and for most combinations, also the Yeah Racing motor mount), you can mount 48dp and 64dp spurs, but don't forget to go for a matching pinion as well.

The stock speed controller TBLE-02S in my TT-02 seems to be working, but it would sometimes seems to be having issue. When I punch the throttle hard, the car would accelerate for a second then stop as if the battery is completely drained. Then after another second or two it would resume power. I've made sure the battery is fully charged, and this still happens sometimes. When I don't punch the throttle like this, it usually doesn't have a problem. This happens with the stock brushed motor. I've ran another brushed motor and still same issue, so I don't think it's my motor. I did set up the ESC per the instruction ... Anyone else ever experienced this? It's a really annoying glitch whenever it happens.

How's the wiring and plugs?

I'm going to try turning off the low voltage protection to see if that helps. My 7.2v Ni-MH battery maybe getting old and its voltage seems not to be holding up well under heavy current load.

Try a Lipo pack. That nimh pack is probably on it's last moments lol

I think I can still get some more use out of this battery, just for messing around. The cells do definitely warm up quicker during a run. The internal resistance has probably increased over time.

Tamiya instruction for the 02S doesn't recommend lipo battery. I don't know why though, maybe its low voltage protection was not meant for lipo.

Sounds good I plan to get a lipo pack eventually. It's funny that this speed controller is supposed to be handle brushless motor down to 10.5T but for brushed motor you're not supposed to run anything lower than 25T, which is very slow in comparison.

The stock cut off voltage is set to 4.9V by hardware design. This is fine for NiMH (7.2V) or 2S LiFe, but way too low for LiPo.
You can adjust cut-off voltage to match LiPo values by changing some resistors of the TBLE's Electronic Board. Google give some good results If you search for "TBLE-02S LiPo cut off" for example.

Michael

What you're most likely looking at is a pack with one dead cell. That "cutof" you're running in to, is one of the cells laying down under load. By the time you get back to it, it's bee re-charged by the other cells in the pack.

The pack is dead.

Cells connected in-series can't recharge each other; only cells connected in-parallel can.

Having said that, I agree the battery has one damaged cell, which is sagging very badly under load and takes a long time to recover. It's time to replace the battery.

I hooked it up to a discharger that draws about 20 amps ... measured voltage of each cell under load looks OK. No dead cell. This is a side by side soldered pack that I built so it's easy for me to check each cell's voltage. Fresh off the charger and while still warm, it still provides a good run. I've had packs with dead cell before, and when charging the voltage would jump up really quick. I don't have that issue with this pack.

I also tried running a 19 turn brushed motor today. The 02S handles it fine with no issue. I think I'm going to stick with that setup for bashing.

That's what where doing is running 20t crawler brushed motor's

Shock mounts.
 

Toy car
 

Here is My tt oh twohttps://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...d26231f5e5.jpg
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...7938bbf0e7.jpg

So... anyone with connections to tamiya know what is up with the availability of the hard blue chassis? Or hard white chassis? I sold my spare in like... November, and I haven't been able to find a replacement yet.

PSM Carbon in Germany does such parts.

Michael

Anyone know of any good servo savers. Trying to get my stuff through LHS. I know tamiya and xray make a good one, but can't get them through LHS. Are the associated ones good?

The xray is the be all... The upgraded Tamiya Saver is very decent, most hobby shops have a link to Tamiya parts.

Tamiya #5100

or

Tamiya #54799

Sorry I missed the part where the couldn't get Tamiya also. Order online if you have too, a quality part is nice to have.

Where are your dampers positioned and what is your ride height for this?

I'll get the xray. You have the part #?

372503 - Extra Stiff

The new body I just did for Etrk and the tt02 I just built have fallin in Love, .... it's SiCk.
1st runs out front shows real well.Foam Tyres and rear wing calm the rear well.Which I was having an issue with on corner exit ,throttle on power.
Try get it to the track Sat.
17.5 mtr.https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...d20be43084.jpg
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...a40df7aedb.jpg

So I removed the spring spacer on all the shocks so it sits a tad lower. I have the front shocks in the outer position and the rear on the inner. I never actually checked the ride height to be honest but seems right around 4.8-5.2mm

What do you think tamiya's best body at the moment is for the tt02rr. Were not allowed to use raikiri

Honda NSX GT body is my choice

I had the NSX Concept-GT. Worked great for me.

Ok i ordered the nsx.
thank you for the info

to those of you who have switched to hex screws, did you stick with the tapping screws or machine screws?
If this were the stiffer chassis i'd say machine screws are fine but not sure how well the softer plastic holds up over time...

Machine thread screws are just fine.

It's much easier to accidentally strip M3 screws in the plastic chassis if the holes have previously been threaded with self tappers. Same goes for self tappers with a different thread pitch to the standard screws. I'd stick with what you have, or buy a replacement chassis and stick with a different type of screw from day 1.

Arrowmax 664070 (Spur gear)
Arrowmax 364053 (pinion gear)
These will fit, but many other brands also.

Michael

Most 64pitch spur gears with a 4-hole pattern should work with the high speed mount. Some gears only have a 6-hole pattern, which may still work only with 2 screws instead of 4. 2 screws should be ok for a low power motor like a 17.5t. Pinion gears must suit a 1/8" or 3.175mm shaft, which just about all 64pitch pinions will be. Arrowmax and RW Racing make good quality gears.

With an 82t 64pitch spur, pinions larger than 44t or 45t will not fit under the unmodified gear cover in my experience. I would get a 82t and 44t to start with, which should get you going somewhere around 24mph on a 17.5t motor and 2S battery.

I have run down to a 69t spur and 60t pinion in my TT02 which required a lot of the gear cover to be cut away. This would get you around 35mph on a 17.5t motor. Motor might get too hot with these gears unless you run only on smooth concrete/asphalt, keep the speeds up and/or have a decent motor cooling fan.

Additionally, consider using a 3S battery which your motor/ESC should support but watch those temperatures! Speeds should increase approximately 50% when you swap a 2S battery for 3S. Heat from the ESC/motor will increase 100%.