Thanks, that makes a lot of sense. The R instructions seem to be right in the middle-ground of settings, so maybe I'll go with that to start.

Old dog new game. What's the TT02 max min tooth count of the pinion and spur set? Largest pinion and spur and the smallest pinion that still reaches with the same spur. I have the YR motor mount and spur adapter (high speed gear set) on the way. I'm looking to end up in the 3.8 (55/36) FDR range for some 21.5 racing. The car is an SR and a WHIP. I'm waiting on a few more deliveries before I can run it. I'm also getting all Tamiya upgrades to stay TCS legal if we ever get to race again.

Thanks,

John

With the Tamiya motor mount, you can run a 29T pinion with the 64T spur. Gets you down to 5.74

New shocks included a holder (from sprue) some assembly required.

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...b98bab4345.jpg

It should be here tomorrow. I can play with it. I have a few TC3s laying around for comparison. They are the reason I went with the SR version. Hope to see you and the other racers this weekend.

I've got a set of TRF pistons that I need to put in mine. I'm too lazy to take them apart just for that.

How many holes do they have? I'm using the single hole pistons one these same as what they came with. Pretty easy maintenance really was expecting more of a pain. I used our food vacuum sealer to bleed the air out lol.

I finally got a set of springs in but somehow did not notice they only come with 2 of each spring. So now I need to order another set. I'm gonna run the stiffer set in front for now.

I got the 3 hole ones. I tried running with really stiff springs all around and didn't like it. That might work well on carpet, but I wasn't getting the traction I wanted on asphalt. I may actually go back to the softer kit springs on the rear.

Ok need some help.

I’ve just fitted a Tamiya 64T spur gear, along with a 48P 28T pinion gear.

I'm using the standard plastic motor mount whilst I wait for my YR adjustable one to arrive.

I’ve got it to fit nicely, but it sounds awful!
Like a sort of grinding sound. Previously it was nice and quiet, but after fitting these bits, it’s very loud. Is that normal, or have I done something wrong?

I have greased the gears too.

Did you use a Tamiya pinion?

No, I couldn’t find one that was 28T.
I bought one from eBay.
Forum won’t allow me to post the link, but the item number is 274341095112

The Tamiya aspur gear (Module 0,6) does not match the 48dp pinion.
If you convert 48 dp into the metrical system you will have module 0,53. (1/48*25,4)
Vice versa: module 0,6 is more equivalent to 42dp.
​​​​​​The result of the combination with real module 0,6 is not smoooth, but "pepper mill"

You want this:

https://www.tamiyausa.com/shop/optio...uorine-coated/

Kremzeek, kremzeeeeek!!!!

So that will prevent the grinding sound with the Tamiya 64T Spur gear?
I can't see what the difference is with that pinion compared to the one I've purchased, unless it's just the coating?

Tamiya 64T spur gear is Module 0,6
Your pinion ist 48dp Module
Kremzeek's pinion is Module 0,6.
48 dp does not match Module 0,6 (see posts above), layout shape and size of tooth is different
Okay?
​​​​​
​​​
​​​​

I'm new to all this stuff, so the above doesn't make much sense to me, apart from the fact it seems I've bought the wrong pinion?

Thanks

Trying to find the Tamiya 28T pinion in the UK seems impossible.

Would this work:
https://wheelspinmodels.co.uk/i/316877/

Thanks

This will work!

Are the SR Kit springs softer than the red springs?

Robinson Racing sells the Tamiya compatible pinions in .6 module.

Tamiya uses it's own proprietary gears, in .4 and .6 module which looks like 64P and 48P but isn't.

If you use the Tamiya high speed gear set (TAM54500) but do not use the included Tamiya spur gear from the kit, you can use traditional 48P or 64P spur and pinion gears. This option would give you the most flexibility on gearing.

Yes, It's mod 6 with a 3.2mm bore (1/8"). Most motor shafts are 1/8" Standard.

Thanks a lot for all the replies. Very helpful :)

I clearly still have a lot to learn.

If they're the same as the ones in the RR kit then they're quite a bit softer than the red springs.

Next question, I looked on thingverse and shapeways for a modified spur cover that will accommodate larger pinions, but came up empty. Is anyone printing a more accommodating cover?

I cut the cover to fit the 66/39 combo. The 40T pinion meshes too tight with the stock motor mount. I will have to swap between a couple Robinson spurs, 60T and 66T 48dp to get what I need for FDR. As long as I stay 1" to 1.10" from center of the shaft to the center of the motor shaft, the gears will mesh.

Hi guys.

Just got myself a TT02 spec RR.
Now, how do you actually set the droop???
I do not see any point where I can set or adjust the droop around the arms.

Am I missing something here???

Please advise.

Thanks

No droop screws so no way to properly set droop.

you can shim the dampers inside to change droop but imo it isn`t necesarry at a tt02.

but give it a try if you like to, good luck

The internal travel limiters are on the parts tree. If you don't like the heights they provide, you can use O rings on the shock shafts during assembly. Then follow up on the outside with spring shims It's the only way to get the ride height, droop and preload right.

Part 54638 can be used on the Type-S but they control the opposite of droop I think?

https://www.tamiyausa.com/shop/optio...bound-stopper/

Part 54638 will let you adjust droop on Type-S, but will not fit the RR.

I just orderd the TT-02D Supra for my son and I to build as he's really got an interest in cars right now, particularly drift, and rally. I have a few questions. The kit I ordered is TAM58613. But I have a few questions while to get ready before it arrives.

- I know it needs a radio, does it also need a servo? Will a Traxxas 2075 work? I have a few of those around.
- Will the stock speed control work with lipo batteries? I have a few 5000 Mah 2S lipos from our Traxxas vehicles and am hoping to use those.
- Any "hop-up" parts recommended from the start? I've seen some comments about aluminum steering knuckles. Really needed? This will be a driveway drift basher to start.
- I'll need a new radio, or to steel one from one of our other cars, but either way will be in the market for a new radio. Will the "drift" version of this benevit from any AVC/gyro setup? I don't have a radio with that, but am wondering if I should budget that in.
- Are the stock screws OK? Any benefit to getting a better screw set from the start?
- Can anyone recommend what size philips drivers to get? I like good tools for RC (MIP) but only have hex drivers right now.

And finally, we may want to get another body and tires and turn this in a rally version later on. What other parts are required to be the equivalent of say, the Subary Rally TT02?

Thanks for any input!

Your servo should be fine, as for the ESC I'm assuming its a TBLE02S which can't run lipo. I didn't realise it at the time and my ESC broke just as I finished a race.

For hopups, alu steering knuckles are a big no no for anything besides bling. For now just get universal drive shafts and dampers. I could go on and on about hop-ups that I deem "essential", but those 2 are necessary.

Stock screws require JIS tips, normal Philips will strip them eventually and some of the screws are tapping which eventually strip the threads after taking the car apart a few times. I'd recommend replacing them.

Oh and the TT02 and the TT02D are practically the same car. TT02D just comes with drift tyres, motor heatsink and I think bearings. The only difference with the Subaru Rally TT02 are rally tyres, you can pretty much fit any Tamiya body onto the TT02.

I think the TBLE-02S can handle a 2S lipo's voltage. But this ESC does not have a voltage cutoff suitable for lipo chemistry.

Jason,

That servo will work fine.
The stock ESC will work with 2S Lipo batteries but it doesn't not have the right type of cutoff. If you are going to run Lipo with that ESC, purchase a Lipo alarm to run with the car. They are cheap and very much worth it!
As far as hop ups - there are so many TT02 variants out there I don't know exactly what this kit comes with but first hops while building a drift variant should be these. I included links or part numbers for you:

-Bearings (I use FastEddy) - https://www.fasteddybearings.com/tam...d-bearing-kit/

Aluminum Propeller Shaft - 54501

Aluminium Propeller Joints - 54502

Aluminimum Steering Components - 54574

Aluminium Steering Bridge - 54575


Back to your questions:

A gyro would benefit if you think you need one. I have used them and they can help control the car.

Stock screws are just fine. They are NOT Phillips head but JIS. Make sure you pick up a JIS driver set like this one:



I hope this helps. If you have more questions feel free to PM me!

Been running a 2S round lipo on my TBLE02S for over a year with no issues with the stock silver can. You can likely fry it running a brushless non recommended tamiya motor. 21.5's these days are insanely fast.

Was running a 21.5 brushless motor at the time so that's probably why it broke

Thanks guys.
Now I know.