Shorter wheelbase = lower high speed stability on straights, better steering / turning on tight tracks.

Since you’re running stock motor, you won’t have an issue with the shorter wheelbase being unstable on straights.

I use the same short wheelbase for the 911 RSR 1973. Honestly, I can't tell the difference driving long vs short wheelbase back to back. I'm no pro but been to many TCS events, even made the podium a few times in Rally class back in the day. So from that experience, and running my TT 02. 911, go for it, it can't really hurt you at all. Might help you in the twisties, otherwise no real change.

I use the 911 RSR body in VTA... does super well. Handles great

Curious, on 2 things:

1) is this part TCS legal for the TT02/GT Pro class:
https://www.tamiyausa.com/shop/optio...ft-assembly-2/

2) Will this work w/ the TT02 "rr" and/or oil filled diff outdrives?
Tamiya says you need a specific outdrive to use their universal joints, I am assuming this is because the standard outdrives are too short. The oil diff' outdrives are a bit different than the gear diff outdrives ...so just wanted to have some clarity on this. thanks.

I don’t know the TCS rules, but this dcj will fit the oil filled gear diff.

Sweet! thank you WTCC!
-I believe it should be TCS legal, yet would love to hear if anyone is positive that it is ;)

thanks

From the 2020 rules:

Any TT-02 Hop-Up Option is legal with the exceptions listed in RED: No aluminum shocks. No carbon shock towers.

I took my TT02 out today and ran through a couple packs for fun. The rear diff is filled with badhorsie diff locking grease now and the rear end feels more stable than before (it's rear wheel drive only). It's significantly stickier than Tamiya anti-wear grease. The cheapie 19 turn brushed motor in it feels faster now for some reason. Maybe I had throttle EPA turned down before and didn't realize it.
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...8a8193177b.jpg

Looking to get some new wheels for my Subaru rally and Mustang GT4 bodies

I love the looks of the Tamiya wheels, but they are too fragile and break quite often

Suggestions?

Width
 

Hi Wtcc can You tell me which width you can reach with 420 arms configuration please?

It is 180mm with 5mm wheelhexes and 0mm offset 24mm wheels.

Kit Tamiya wheels are fragile but the racing wheels are bullet proof!
eBay
Tamiya 53468 RC 24mm Mesh Wheels-4pcs - White/ +2 offset.

I've used these for USGT for years. Never broken one or even cracked one.

Thanx so much!

24 or 26mm width?
​​​​​​

I believe the Subaru and Mustang GT4 both use 26mm

Maybe one of these beauties for the Mustang?
​​​​MST Wheels

They do look great!

Any idea what material it’s made of and if it’s 26mm? I don’t see any information online

I have no idea about the material they are made of, but from my point of view their durability is more than okay.
Width is 26mm and have a really nice shiny finish (if that matters)
Michael
​​​
Edit:
What do you think of them for the Subaru:
HPI TE37

Hey guys , I am thinking of getting into the hobby and starting with a TT02 as my first car, one of these maybe --> Tamiya 1/10 Raikiri GT On-Road 4WD Kit ?

Do you have some suggestions of upgrade parts I should consider when starting off? I read maybe bearings and a motor mount? I don't really know I'm pretty new. I have a battery charger from my RC plane days.
I will need battery, TX, and servo for sure.
Also paint for the body.....

Ballbearings is a good first choice. If you are new then I would wait before buying other tuning parts. You could easily spent a lot money on tuning parts for this chassis. Just wait and see what is not like you would want it. The Raikiri is a decent choice.
You run on a parking lot or track? The latter, then ask what the other guys run and have fun with and join them ;)

For battery just a normal 2S lipo with around 6000mah. Servo should be medium fast 0,09s/45 degree, around 60$. Transmitter is a little religion. You can go for a cheaper system for the first months. Then if you love it and want to get more serious, go for a Sanwa system (MT-4 or equal). This is of course my personal experience. After the switch to this brand, I never had any problem and could do a better job more easy on track.
Colorwise should the normal Tamiya PS be the best for the first race livery.

I agree with the comments above. Many people buy a TT02 and then a bunch of hopups at the start but the cost gets out of control so quickly. Just bearings and run it to start, oil shocks are worth looking at too. The friction dampers aren't the best but will work ok, but the plastic bushings will sap power and runtime and can cause damage.

If you decide on an alloy motor mount look at the Yeah Racing version as it has a slot allowing you to set the gearmesh, rather than the fixed positions of the Tamiya version. I would only buy this if you also get the high speed gearset, otherwise the plastic one is fine if you are running the kit motor.

thanks

what shocks are worth a look ? im considering shocks and maybe aluminum prop shaft? is the prop shaft something i should consider ?
Do you guys think a turnigy 2s 5800 lipo is ok?

thanks , do you think this servo is ok (cant post links EcoPower WP110T Cored Waterproof High Torque Metal Gear Digital Servo
or this battery ? Turnigy nano-tech 5800mah 2S2P 30~60C Hardcase Lipo Pack (ROAR APPROVED)

I run this servo in a lot of my cars and it does perfectly fine:

For my taste it would be a little slow and large.
This one is proven and fast:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/savox-s...1mg-be/p467063

The battery is unexpensive and fine.

There isn't too much stress on a stock TT-02 and you can use a basic servo like a Futaba S3003. If you want something a little better, try the Futaba S3004 as it uses a ball bearing race in the top of the servo. If you must have something better, my go-to servo has always been the low profile Savox SC-1251MG in the standard gold colour. I see no need to pay extra for the exact same servo in black. I have also had success with the Power HD 1206TG slow profile servos.

Before upgrading the servo in a Tamiya TT-02, I would first upgrade from the stock servo saver to the Tamiya item# 54799 TT-02 Hi-Torque Servo Saver, which is about $17 USD. Below is a link on Tamiya USA's website for this specific part. They have an online shopping portal and they will ship directly to your location (free shipping on orders of $50 or more the last time I used them).

https://www.tamiyausa.com/shop/optio...e-servo-saver/

The stock plastic servo saver that comes with the basic TT-02 kits will work okay with inexpensive servos such as a Futaba 3001 or similar. However the plastic "spring" in the servo saver will eventually wear/become weak which can make the steering sloppy and less responsive. If using a high speed and/or high torque servo, a servo saver upgrade really is necessary. You don't have to use a Tamiya servo saver, as there are other companies that make good servo savers or aluminum servo horns. However from my experience running Tamiya vehicles, I've never had any issues after upgrading to the Hi-Torque servo saver (at least with that part of the car).

I hope this info helps.

That battery will work well.

For shocks you can just get the Tamiya CVA shocks, they're plastic but actually work pretty well. If you want alloy then look at the TRF Special Dampers which are great or Yeah Racing make some that are pretty good, especially for the price (about half the price of the TRF ones). I haven't used them but have heard good things about their "Shock Gear" range, which are their mid-range.

If you haven't bought the kit yet then look at the versions. There is a TT02D kit (not the chassis kit, a kit with body etc included) which comes with full bearings, CVA (plastic oil) shocks and a sport tuned motor. It has plastic drift wheels, but it may be cheaper to buy some new wheels for that kit than buying bearings and shocks for a base kit.

I don't know about the prop shaft, I haven't upgraded mine, the kit ones seem fine.

As far as servos go, I've gone for cheap JX 4409MG servos in my fun cars. They have similar specs to the Savox 1251 but are about quarter the price. So far I haven't had one fail. I don't think they are as precise but the TT02 isn't precise anyway so I doubt it'd make much difference. Servo saver 51000 could be an option if the kit one wears out too, its about $5 and they work well.

My view on this though is that it isn't worth spending a lot on these cars, buy the kit, do the basics and enjoy it for what it is. If you want better performance start with a better kit - TA07 or TB05 for Tamiya, or the Express XQ1S or similar from other brands.

Great advice and thread.

Glad to see there's a really active community around this chassis.

I'm building the second TT-02 Subaru rally in quarantine. Probably the 30th rc car I've built but these kits are new to me.

I bought the yeah racing steering and motor mount.

I'm running 17t brushless in each car. Do you think I'll be ok with the standard spur gear? I don't want to chew right through it.

Any suggestion on pinion size? The kit comes with 22t bit was wondering what people suggest with a 17t motor and the stock spur.

Thanks.

I might have missed this, so apologies if I did.

I am going to be picking up a TT02 for racing in VTA. I am a little torn over which version to select.
TT02 Type S
TT02 Type SR

These both seem like they are great options for me (a noob), but is the SR worth the additional price?

In my opinion go for the SR. That you can change the rear toe with inserts alone is worth the money.

Agree with WTCC.
But if you want to go with Tamiya and shaft drive, maybe a TB-05 pro is another starting point. Price wise there is not much difference between TB-05 and the TT-02 SR. TB-05 has all the features of SR, but better shocks and diffs, a big advantage fron my point of view.

Regards,
Michael

Thanks all! Was going to start racing my SCT but seems that's no longer viable.

I'm going to start in the VTA and trying to figure out which is best for me. I will definitely check out the TB05.

Rally variant rear suspension travel
 

I've been trying to find a post regarding my question, but haven't had any success. I'm not impressed with the rear suspension travel at the rear of the car. I've read about cutting off the small tab on the inside of the rear hub, but I can only assume that removing the stopper will put all of the stress on the shock eyelet. Has anyone ran with this setup? I'm running mini CVAs on mine as well.

Thank you in advance!

XV01 :nod:

Got some laps in this afternoon:

Hehe I have one of those as well. Just wanted to have a beater waterproof car that is cheap and easy to maintain.

Anyone had any experience comparing the Tamiya Alloy hubs vs Aftermarket (3Racing, GPM, Yeah Racing)

ive never had much luck with yeah racing from a quality point of view with other items Seem ok at first, but often are soft or ill fitting. But worth a look especially as 1/3rd the cost!

looking at;
- rear hubs
- motor mount
- centre shaft
- steering

so the usual really.

Hi guys,

I've recently built my first RC car in about 20 years (first one being when I was about 8!)
It's a Tamiya TT02 and I've set it up as a rally spec as I want to just use it for fun and find some decent trails in the local woods for a blast.

So far I've ordered a dust cover for the internals to keep them from getting caked, and also some proper bearings, still waiting for those to arrive.
I would like it to be a bit faster as well (I know the bearings should assist with this slightly), as I find the provided Tamiya torque tuned motor a little lacklustre, so what would you pros recommend for upping the speed?

Thanks!! 😊