Hi Guys

Here is a guide to give the TT02 camber without those terrible thick aluminium arms :)

You can do it with all Tamiya Parts or buy a special little widget thingy :)

http://www.thercracer.com/2014/07/th...ar-camber.html

I've been reading your modifications and it suddenly came to my mind that the part you've especially made can be mad out of a tamiya part.
You could use the rocker nut from an IFS suspension with part nr 19808126.
The width of the damper stay is 7,3mm and the nut is 8,3mm, you could use a dremel to cut off 1mm or you could use some 0.5x5mm spacers.
One difference is that the rocker nut has got some thread in it, but it can be used for doing this modification.

I've also saw some time ago that there was a guy who fillped the A2 part and then you are able to use the upper camber mount from a TT01.
I haven't tried that cause i don't have the needed parts.

Excellent thinking Qatmix! Love this chassis for its tinker value!

I've been meaning to post up pics of my TT02 with the eagle plastic drift kit as both the front and rear use similar thinking for camber adjustment.

Will try and do it in the next few days.

Cheers,
Crouch

Here is my solution with the earlier mentioned rocker nut.
I did however used the longer ball connectors as the turnbuckle will have pore thread in them and it's a bit stronger.
I've also cut the A2 part holder to save some more weight.
My weight saving was up to 7gr.
Total weight of the car now is 1175gr, race ready.
Here are some pictures.

http://i946.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps0dfdb657.jpg
http://i946.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps8bf68a5b.jpg

How much gain have you got from this mod? They look like ride street tires ..

Addicted2b - Looks cool :) Like the adaptation there, wait till you try it on the track, it really helps keep the rear in check :)

DJchow - As above, it helps keep your rear end more stable when cornering at speed.

Camo - I would love to see the pics of that, I am tempted to fit the 418 arms on my TT02 as I know how to do it, but it might stop it being anything like a TT02 :)

Those tires are standard tamiya 26mm radial tires.

@Qatmix,

I will be testing the car within a few hours on a large outdoor track.
The car was already good but i do look forward to see how it handles with this mod.
Thx for the great idea.

I've been testing the car with the modifications and the rear traction did improve but i've also noticed that the rear hub has a lot more play and under acceleration the rear wobbles also a lot more then before.
I will look into it and i think i need to add an extra shim plate between the rear hub and suspension arm.
Overal i think it did improve the cars best lap at the track, my fastest time today was 1.5 seconds faster then the fastest guy last saterday with the same car, same motor and same FDR of 5.09.

Cool! I love seeing how far I can push this chassis :)

I have shimmed the lower hub in the arms, I get no wobble. I forgot to mention that. :)

Hi all,

I've been meaning to post up some pics and a mini build of my TT-02 drift conversion, using the Eagle Racing plastic drift kit.
However time is elusive so I thought i'd at least drop a handful of pics in with a few comments.

Although a 'drift' kit, i'm sure it could suit on-road use as well so hopefully you will find it interesting at least.

As Qatmix said though, i'm not sure if it still counts as a TT-02!?!? :-)

The Eagle Racing kit part number is TT02-14-PL and can be found on Broadtech here: http://www.broadtech.hk/eagleshop/sh...?id=TT02-14-PL
You can also get the same in alloy if that's your preference.

The kit is incredibly well spec'd with uni's, front and rear knuckles, front C-hubs, lower supension arms, ball bearings, locking wheel nuts, spacers, turnbuckles, mounting hardware, adjustable this and that's, etc. Even with EMS postage I think for what you get it's very well priced.
The obvious departures from the stock TT-02 core design elements are the use of C hubs and having turnbuckles for the upper suspension arms.

http://i1319.photobucket.com/albums/...ps9d90016e.jpg

Here's some pics of the build.
Note the similarities to what Qatmix showed us earlier.
Also note that the A2 part that holds the stock upper suspension arm is not actually needed (I think I fitted it before I figured that out).

http://i1319.photobucket.com/albums/...ps187d9a07.jpg

http://i1319.photobucket.com/albums/...ps33ea8e48.jpg

http://i1319.photobucket.com/albums/...ps2133df1c.jpg

Only shot of the rear currently sorry...
http://i1319.photobucket.com/albums/...ps3c1809cc.jpg

http://i1319.photobucket.com/albums/...psfe6fe4b0.jpg

These next shots also show the version 1 Eagle Alloy steering system.
You can't achieve the shown max steering angle without it binding in place - I have some high angle steering arms fitted since this pic.
http://i1319.photobucket.com/albums/...psda672b56.jpg

http://i1319.photobucket.com/albums/...ps708ef6df.jpg

My overall impressions of this kit are quite good - Fiddly (especially with the instructions in a different language!) but seems to be good quality, great value, lots of adjustability for wheelbase, and all the wheel angles you could want.

Sadly though I haven't done much testing - Not many places to drift in my local area.

If you have any specific questions on this kit please feel free to ask and i'll do my best to answer.

Cheers,
Crouch

I bought two TT02 kits for my sons. Is there suggestion for rear upright toe in ?

Or I must buy tamiya hop up options : aluminium rear upright with toe in ?

( out of topic, I already bought tamiya hop up options : aluminium steering linkages full set , aluminium motor mount, high speed gears, 64t spur gears, 29t pinion gears, TRF oil shock dampers , tamiya TT02 spare parts )

Thank you for sharing tips and suggestions regarding rear toe in.

..... I also enjoy reading the final drive ratio modification tips by qatmix and addicted2blue. Very tempting to do so .... too bad our local race regulations only allow tamiya parts only with 5.74 final drive ratio is the minimum limit for TT02 racing.

I am thinking of using M03 rear toe in hop up option.... let me check it first.

A few of the guys like qmatix and addicted are using rear toe in I'm sure. I'm waiting for my 2degree toe in. Are you guys running 2,2.5 or 3 toe in?

I do use the tamiya aluminium toe-in rear hubs (i thought they are 2.5°), it did improve the cars handling.
With the last modification that i got from Qatmix's idea makes the car a bit faster cause of the rear grip advantage.

In my last post i refered to a wrong laptime of the other guy.
I've mentioned 23.5s but it was 22.4s with Ride 32 tires while i was just using tamiya medium narrow radial tires with a lot of wear.
Cause of all the changes i'm still 0.6seconds faster and still searching for some extra speed :D
I've got a new set of tires glued on a set of wheels with some offset to get the maxiumum width out of this chassis, that will make the car more stable when the car goes into corners and give the car more corner speed.
I will do some more testing.

Yeah I ended up getting Yeah racing 2 degrees toe in as it was half the price of the tamiya ones. I would be interested to know lap times with extra off set. ..

That you can only find out by trying those different rear toe-in setups.
The difference between my standard TT-02 and my (as i like to call it) race spec TT-02 is between 0.5s and 1s per lap faster, that's what i call a very big difference :D

Does anyone have a set of stock ferrari 458... CHROME.... stock wheels that they would like to sell? I know this should be in the wtb section but it only applies to the tt02 kits..i figured it couldn't hurt to ask... thanks!

Just sold some!

If it helps they are also available on one of the RTR XB TT-01 kits: 46623 .

Good luck!

Thanks! I found some hpi ones that are a 3 offset...i think those will work... there the same style. Hpi9030...from what I can see the tamiya chrome ones are a zero offset and the grays are 2...

Hi all,

I've been fiddling about with a TT-02B buggy body trying to develop it as a chassis cover for the sedan model to keep dirt and debris out of it.
Problem is the buggy body sits quite low and has very little room underneath for anything other than the stock electronics, unless you can mount them centrally which is difficult without a TT-01 Type E sort of chassis brace.
Then I thought, well they've gotta be pretty close in terms of wheel base so perhaps the TT-01 Type E upper chassis brace could be made to fit the TT-02?

Trouble is I just sold two TT-01's before thinking to check.
Does anyone have one lying around that they could check for me? Perhaps take a pic of it sitting across the top of a TT-02?

Or does anyone have any ideas on where to source something to do a similar job?

Cheers,
Crouch

There are actually TT-02 chassis covers.
I've seen them on the german ebay, i've contacted the seller about shipping to Belgium and he gave me a link to a website but i was unable to find them.

My complete budget racer. Used tire sauce today and was stunned. Felt like a kid in a candy store and have new love for the tt02. Pretty awesome journey from a rally car to this.

Still a few more things to tweak. Without this thread/forum I wouldn't have got this far :D

I've been changing the mounting of the rear hubs and front steering blocks.
I did switch them arround as when you should do to make a TT-02 Rally version.
By doing this i need to mount some smaller dampers, so i did use some TRF mini dampers to become the correct ride height.
I mounted some VTEC 30R tires to see how the car performs with this setup.
Going to test this setup tomorrow on a high grip carpet track, i will keep you guys informed how it went.

whats the best way to get more top end on my tt02? i have the highspeed gear set with a 27 pinion. lrp17.5 motor running 2s....snooze snooze snooze.. its seems ok for the stock drift type tires...but i want to do more than just slide around.. i bought some HPI replacement tires-so that should help the sliding. do i up the voltage--3s? change the gearing? or go for a different motor--like a 13.5 or even lower? i also have a trinity d3.5 17.5 motor but i havent tried it yet. i'm just bashing in a parking lot.. i'm not looking for crazy speed speed but i would like it to be at least peppy! .. before i throw any more money at this thing-i thought i would ask the experts... thanks.

From what i can understand is that you are using the high speed spur with a 27T pinion,is that correct?
If you do, then i suggest to buy a bigger pinion a 29T (This pinion comes in a set of 2 pinions 28T&29T) and a TB03 64T spur.
This will bring your final drive ratio (FDR) down to 5.74 instead of the 6.55 FDR you have now.
The motor should be ok with this lower FDR.
This would cost you less then $20, much cheaper then buying a new motor.
Just keep in mind that you oftenly need to check the temperature of the motor after a few minutes of driving.

Hope this helps

Today i've been testing the setup discribed above and the car was absolutely a blast to drive.
The car was on rails even without tire sauce, just cleaned the tires and drive.
Even though i was only using a silvercan motor but the car looked very fast and stable.
The most important thing i noticed was that when you mount the rear hubs and steering blocks like a rally version they become stronger.
Normally when i hit the boarding with the TT-02 (cause of to tide steering) the steering block would have been broken, but even after a few times of to tide steering the car (steering blocks) were still fine.
I can only recommend this to everybody who is running a TT-02 and is able to mount some smaller dampers (like TRF mini dampers).

@Qatmix,

You really should try the setup explained above, you will love it
If you need more explaining just PM me ;) cause i'm unable to send a PM to you.

Trf dampers will help a tt02 out a lot.

That's correct, but we have been using the car at the belgian TCS and there it isn't allowed to use TRF dampers in the junior or top stock series.
And because we are going to compete with another touring car championship (where it's allowed to use TRF dampers) i've been testing them with my new setup.

Trf dampers as opposed to which? I have used the setup for rally on carpet but this was an unfair comparison as my car had been used for off road a lot. I ended breaking the rear left hub on the straight from the boarding if that's what you call it so I don't think its necessarily stronger due to a different setup.

I still have hit the boarders 1-2 during practice and not broken any knuckles/hubs. I'm also using a 9t motor so not too slow either on the straight

We were only allowed to use the plastic oil shocks from tamiya.
When i said the rear hub&steering blocks are stronger by using them in rally configuration then it was mostly ment for the steering blocks.
I'm using the alu 2.5° rear hubs, these are very solid.

When you would mount the rear hubs and steering blocks as it's ment to be for on road racing then the steering blocks are very fragile and do break very easily.
My little girl broke a lot of these steering blocks with very minor crashes that a car should be able to handle without any problem.
This was the biggest problem for every TT-02 competing at the belgian TCS.
I have never broke 1 rear hub, even when i'm using the standard versions under racing conditions.

Wouldn't the m chassis super mini cva shocks give the same idea as the slipped suspension with trfs? While being cheaper, and having nearly equal performance and tune-ability.

Yep the Tamiya Super Mini CVA's are the same length, and are good shocks. not as blue or shiny as the TRF ones though :)

@addicted2blue why doesnt my PM work for you ? I will try some of the things you mention. My TT02 is handling well atm, although I am away for work atm so not racing for a few days

The TRF type dampers are waaaaayy better then those plastic super mini dampers, they will give a huge difference in handling.
They are indeed more expensive but IMO worth every extra $$$.
My car runs great with those super mini dampers but with those TRF mini dampers the car was so much more stable and planted and it does improve your laptimes.
I will keep trying to improve the cars handling with several other setups and tires.

My fastest laptime with just a silvercan motor was 11.053seconds, while on this same track Markus Mobers (1/12th stock european champion) have laptimes arround 7seconds with his modified 1/12th car. I think this isn't a bad time for a silvercan equipped basic car.

Do you have laptimes between the minis and the trfs?

No i don't have some laptimes with the super mini's.
I'm counting on what my eyes see and how i feel the car is driving arround the track.
For example i never use a roll out when i'm driving a F1 with foam tires or a 1/12th scale car, but i Always been able to get the gear ratio to be correct.
I'm mostly make dicisions on my feeling and so far they never let me down, but i'm getting older and you'll never know when i could be wrong.;)

I've got a TT02 in the mail. SUPER STOKED!

Does anyone know if the HPI vintage treaded D compound tires are a direct fit 26/31 for the kit(Carrera RSR) rims?

Also, how is the stock gearing for your local VTA/Scale Spec? I'll be running a tight indoor carpet track.

Thanks,
-Tommy

The HPI vintage tires need the HPI vintage rims because of the way the outer sidewall is on the tires.

Thanks!

I'm still figuring this out at my indoor track. Lap times for TC are from 12-16 seconds

I have the tt02r that came with a 19t pinion and it topped out half way on the straight but also I had rubber o rings at the hubs so it may have caused the drive to be less free

If you can avoid buying the tamiya AV pinions as wear shows even after one session of play

For me I think 20-23t pinion may be right. I used a 25t and it was slightly too fast on the straight and too sluggish for me in corners

Hope that helps

Wow, that helps a ton. Thank you.

For VTA, does anyone know if I will need the offset wheels for the carrera body? I will be getting the 26/31 rim combo, just unsure of offset.

Thanks in advance, painting starts tomorrow.