Thanx for the update!!:) Is it possible to use a larger pinion perhaps a 34 48dp with the motor mount? In our club competition FDR is set at 5.0. I want a FDR at approx 5.5/5.6.

I'm sorry, but since I don't own a 34t pinion I'm not able to check.
Looking at the space left between chassis and 32t pinion I'd say it fits, but I wouldn't say that I'm sure with a gun pointing at my head :D
Larger problem would be the mounting position to get the needed space.

Maybe a 30t pinion module 0.6 in mounting position 'J' in combination with a 64t spur is the better way to try - that would end up in a 5.55 FDR. Only thing is I'm not sure if there's a 30t m0.6 pinion is available in steel... :confused:

Thanx Hasi... dont be sorry!!! Gonna try the 0.6 option, because I think 5.5 FDR is exactly right for our track. And Im using the 64t spur already so only need to buy a 30t pinion. And yes there are 0.6 30t pinions available...
Let you know of it will fit and what the mounting position is.

Hey All, do you think a 10 year old kid could put together a TT02 kit? If not, whats a good first TC for a 10 year old?

He can do it with some help. Buy aluminum steering uprights. The stock ones are poorly designed.

This thread has been very helpful!

Does anyone know of any good deals on the TT-02T or TT-02B kit? Just need the basic kit. I have most of the electronics already.

Thanks!

have any of you guys been running diff oils in the TT02 diffs? I know I read some place that anything less than (i think) 300k will just leak out - if anyone is running less than that, how are you sealing the diffs?

I plan on running the TT02 spec class for TCS, so anything has to fit within TCS rules and tech... I'm not overly worried about the thicker stuff, as I'd probably run 300k or 500k in the front diff, so I get a spool-like action, but still fit within the TCS rules that the diff has to work

any ideas?

Ride diff. Gum

no good. i have to be able to show the diff works - and the diff gum restricts about 95% of the movement and that won't fly past tech

You can adjust the amount of gum used. Make the gum into 3mm balls and add into the diff one by one until you think it is tight enough. I will put some kyosho diff grease together to make the diff smoother. The pros of using gum instead of silicon oil in a unsealed gear diff is that the diff will not loose easily.

i ordered me a tt-02 kit today Tamiya alfa romeo 155 v6 TI MARTINI... gonna run this in a Tamiya class near my home in a caret season.. also purchased this servo will this servo work the futaba model s3010 hi torque ball bearing. I also read through the board something about setting it up as a rally car for a durable structure.. some more info on that as well.. also anyone familiar with this kits im looking for a weight of finished product, I will be upgrading to bearing set as well using the metal motor mount.. I believe they say the car must 1450grams.. but I am a noob to this.. so im curious does this come with the adjustable turnbuckles... an friction shocks do these require oil??? sorry for the run on ?'s but as stated im new to this sorta racing.. an any other help will be greatly appreciated

Can the both version of escs that come with the TT02's run on a 2s lipo? In the product description it states they are 6.6v-7.2v. We would prefer to keep them as stock as possible to grow the class and not let it get out of hand so that anyone can get a kit put a radio in it and race.

from the reading ive been doing.. im gathering the esc will shut down with a lipo 2s an even a 8.4 nimh.. I bought a futabab s3010 servo an im curious if the speed control will power it, also ive gathered this from reading misc. reviews an such

Hi guys
I am planing to buy a TT02 Type-S mainly for drift and drag racing so i need speed as well.
I need some suggestion for what KV and turn i should use to get max out of tt02. I already have 60AMP Hobbywing ESC and planing to use 3S Lipo. defiantly i will do some Alum upgrade.pls advice which is essential and also are Ring Gear & Bevel Gears made of? is it steel or plastic? if plastic then shuld i change it?

The tble02 that comes with the TT02 is perfectly fine with 2 cell lipo. That is all I have ever used in my TT02.

You might need a low voltage battery alarm if you are just bashing etc as it only has voltage cut-off for life batteries. I never bother as my 6600 lipos run for 3 races and then I swap them out for another set.

Thanks@ Qatmix. any suggetion for BL motor rating with 3S?

I do not think the kit esc would work with a 3cell lipo. The kit esc is supposed to go down to 10.5 sensored motors on 2 cell lipo. If doing that I would suggest adding a fan to the kit esc as some people have blown them with a 10.5 whilst others have been fine.

A 10.5 with 2 cell lipo and low gearing will still get you some good speed. Other than bearings, alloy prop / prop cups, high speed gear set etc there is not much needed to handle the speed. I like the adjustable motor mount from yeah racing, but the Tamiya alloy one is also fine if you do not want to mess around with custom gear options.

Steel internals for the diffs are not needed for onroad, they just add weight. I run a TRF and that has plastic internals and I have never had an issue with them on my tt02's and top end tc's

tierods
 

sir could u please guide me in the direction of tierods for my tt-02...or will the tt-01 tierods if so I can order a set as soon as you confirm thanks in advance

If you mean turnbuckle tie rods for the steering (to adjust toe-in / toe-out), then yes, the TT-01 part # 53662 will fit the TT-02

Ty sir its appreciated an they've been ordered

kimborough servo saver
 

I picked up 2 kimborough servo savers this evening for our tt-02 kits part number is #114 25 spline for the futabas will these savers work or do we need the bigger ones.. I read somewhere Ned the medium ones but was told that the medium may be to tall so we got the small size I wanna verify this before I open the package.. An help is appreciated

I am sure this has already been covered on here, but I don't have time to look at the moment. What is the wheel size and type that can be used on the TT02?

I am about to buy one for a local club race thing we have going on here local, but want to build my own variant based off a 1960's 70's style nascar.
The first body I am going to go with is the Parma 61 Impala
It would be awesome if I could find some "steel wheels" like they actually used back in the day. Anyone know of anything close?

http://s10.postimg.org/yihcsin55/61_Impala.jpg

https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com...f9fb163b6d.jpg

http://www.conceptcarz.com/images/Ch...V-10-MH-06.jpg

You could look at the hpi vintage wheels. They make them in 26mm and 31mm widths.

http://hpiracing.world/en/part/33472

Thanks a lot! Those are near perfect for what I am shooting for

The HPI Vintage wheels are designed to be used with the HPI Vintage tires. If your local class has a spec touring car tire, they most likely won't be able to be mounted on the HPI Vintage wheels.

HPI does make a 26mm "stock car" wheel in black that is designed for standard touring car tires. The part number is 3741. Here is a link on Tower (http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXNV38&P=7)

You pose a good point. I will have to consider this and ask them what the rule is on tires before I choose something.

Racing a tt-02 type s in the TCS?
 

I was looking through the Tamiya Championship Series rules and I don't see a class where this variation of the car could be competitive. I was thinking GT Pro spec, but the type s is not allowed there. Can anyone think of a TCS class where this car could be geared/motored competitively?

Tires must be a tamiya kit tire rather it be a slick radial Hal slick half radial an must be 26mm

Tires are not the problem. It is more of an issue of getting the gear ratio down into the 3.5 to 4.0 FDR for a brushless setup without using non-Tamiya parts which is not allowed according to TCS rules. Of course you can run a silver can 540J in the gt3 class and gearing won't be an issue, but you will need to run against others chassis with 21.5 brushless motors. There is no way a 540J motor is anywhere near the speed of a 21.5, a 25.5 maybe, but not a 21.5.

I managed a FDR of 4.35 without any mods. Assuming you do not have to use Tamiya Spur gears you can do this.

http://www.thercracer.com/2013/07/ho...inky-with.html

Thanks, but 4.35 is not going to be low enough for the track and motor I will be running. I had the motor I am going to use in another car and a FDR around 4.0 seemed to be about perfect for it. I am guessing I would need a YR motor mount to get that low? If so, it would not be allowed according to TCS rules.

BTW, I saw your site and you have some great info on it about the tt-02.

just bought a type S after the shops restocked it then i remembered my dilemma last time

type R has a 3degree toe in rear hubs as standard and type S only has a 2.5degree toe (as an aftermarket option) but the type S also has a 3degree toe in in the form of a steel suspension kit?

so if i used that suspension kit on the type S, would i get a 3 degree toe in, similar to the type R?


I bought the type S because i couldnt find it last time to i took the type R and now I am wondering if i should sell it or keep in/built it.

If you use the 54634 rear steel mount it will increase the Type S rear toe by 0.5 degree to give 3 degrees. The main point of that mount though is to allow you to fit the rebound stoppers which then allow use of the droop screws. I fitted this to my Type S but IMHO it made the car much worse to drive as limiting droop caused the rear end to break away off power into corners. So any advantage the extra .5 degree toe gave was wasted. My Type S is lovely to drive on standard settings. I just hopped up other parts instead.

so the steel part only gives an additional 0.5deg?

the description is quite misleading "Rear plate gives a setup with 3 degrees of toe-in for excellent stability. "

Anyone using the 54574 aluminum steering links, and if so, how do the attach? Is there a nut to hold them under the chassis? My existing tub is stripping out after only two nights of racing.

The hop up TT02-S steel rear plate gives you 3 degrees of rear toe-in.

The TT02-S has 2.5 degrees of toe in with the rear plate that is included.

A std TT02 has 0 degrees of toe in. Unless you buy the hop-up rear hubs (they give you toe in at the rear of 2.5 degrees) or if you buy the TT02-S hop up suspension set which gives you 3 degrees.

As a side note, the hop-up suspension set also allows you to add droop limiters to your TT02-S which makes things easier.

Sorry no, they just replace the plastic part, there is no nut to go under the chassis. How have you damaged that part of the chassis? You didnt use threadlock on the parts or an electric screw driver?

No, I took a big hit and snagged the wheel. It pulled the screw most of the way out.

Ouch!

Luckily the replacement chassis are very cheap, it's just a pain taking it all out

Been there, done that. In my case I used the low friction hop up screw and it sheared the top clean off leaving the thread in the chassis.

Here's my TT-02D Type S that I race at the local Tamiya Series. Handles great, although it's not quite as nimble or quick to react compared to my TA05v2 that has the same servo and motor/esc combo. Any ideas on how to make it quicker to respond to steering inputs?

http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n.../image_12.jpeg