|
No, I have no movement between the axles and the bearings, the shimming will help.
remember though, a little bit of movement is fine, a car with no slop is usually binding or shows up any other minor imperfection in the rest of the components. |
Has anybody purchased the TT-02D?
It comes without a body but that's okay since I'm not totally happy with the rally based body choices in kit form.
|
Has anyone upgraded their front knuckles to aluminium ones? After about 25 or so cartwheels/front flips, face plants of my tt02 I've finally busted my left front knuckle... i've opted to order the standard parts as they're cheap.. but thinking now maybe I should've gone aluminium ..
If so has anyone had issues of the aluminium knuckles bending under stress from bashing etc? |
Currently I have been using the reenforced plastic ones. These are on the a parts sprue for the TT02D you can buy the A sprue separately. It's well worth it as you get a lot of the key components (steering, towers and hubs) all in the harder plastic.
I have also bought the aluminium front parts from jaz hobby on eBay. They seem good value but they are in my spares bundle atm as I prefers plastic where possible. If rallying then I would have no problem swapping the out to these parts. |
Currently I have been using the reenforced plastic ones. These are on the a parts sprue for the TT02D you can buy the A sprue separately. It's well worth it as you get a lot of the key components (steering, towers and hubs) all in the harder plastic.
I have also bought the aluminium front parts from jaz hobby on eBay. They seem good value but they are in my spares bundle atm as I prefers plastic where possible. If rallying then I would have no problem swapping the out to the alum hubs. |
Wouldn't have thought they'd change the plastic just for d spec!
|
Originally Posted by Djchow85
(Post 13240924)
Wouldn't have thought they'd change the plastic just for d spec!
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Originally Posted by Qatmix
(Post 13237545)
I have also bought the aluminium front parts from jaz hobby on eBay. They seem good value but they are in my spares bundle atm as I prefers plastic where possible.
I'm already eyeing a buggy for xmas... good learning experience since the tt-02 is my first! :blush: |
Originally Posted by Qatmix
(Post 13241121)
Only the A parts, they are very good.
|
Part number is 19000614
Saying that I have just broken one of the front hubs (Although I whacked a board at full tilt) Basically it comes with harder plastic versions of the towers, upper bulkheads, Front and rear hubs (and spacers) and it also comes with the steering arms. So most of the key parts you want to be stiffer are there. You will still need to file down the limiters on the front uprights if you want a lot of lock though. I am now going to try the Jaz hobby hubs to see how they work. |
Damn, the reinforced a-parts has an 8 digit part number, which means they're not readily available, and is by order. Why can't Tamiya make this an official TT02 hop-up?
By the way, if I ordered one, would it come with two trees or only one? |
Originally Posted by Smile
(Post 13269016)
Damn, the reinforced a-parts has an 8 digit part number, which means they're not readily available, and is by order. Why can't Tamiya make this an official TT02 hop-up?
By the way, if I ordered one, would it come with two trees or only one? |
One thing I don't like about the jaz set are the screws. I'm not sure if it's possible to tighten the hex screw at the top as I may limit turning. Took it out to the track and the screw and collar went missing :(
I have a feeling the stock parts may be better as the screws stay quite tight in the plastic knuckle |
Today i looked at the chassis to loose some weight, did some things to remove some material but not much.
The car is fully equiped (except my transponder) and i got it down to 1180gr. It allmost weights 200 gr less then my other standard TT-02. |
Originally Posted by addicted2blue
(Post 13282504)
Today i looked at the chassis to loose some weight, did some things to remove some material but not much.
The car is fully equiped (except my transponder) and i got it down to 1180gr. It allmost weights 200 gr less then my other standard TT-02. |
Originally Posted by Qatmix
(Post 13282594)
Pics please :)
Along with some screws from alu and also titanium, i removed the battery posts & battery holder You also save some weight with universals with alu swing shafts. I'm still able to loose some extra weights here and there. For example, using the alu wheel hexes (this would give a weight saving of at least 5gr but it narrows the car a few mm's) a light weight spoiler set with the spoiler stands to be trimmed inside (this will give some extra weight, about 5gr and it looks more realistic to) :D You could also add some very expensive titanium wheel outdrives (53681) to the universals and this will give (so i think) another 8gr or more of weight saving) :D For now i have the electronics on one site but to have a more balanced car i should re-locate the ESC to the side of the battery. All these things will be done before the next race, my little girl runs the car in a junior series (only silvercan motor allowed). I've been doing this because our next races are on large outdoor tracks were speed can be a big advance :D When all these things are done i will do my best to take a picture of it. So stay tuned :D |
Originally Posted by addicted2blue
(Post 13283561)
The main things that will give the most weight saving is the battery (a 2cell lipo in a 1-cell hardcase, weights only 156gr) and a lightweight body set (80gr).
Along with some screws from alu and also titanium, i removed the battery posts & battery holder You also save some weight with universals with alu swing shafts. I'm still able to loose some extra weights here and there. For example, using the alu wheel hexes (this would give a weight saving of at least 5gr but it narrows the car a few mm's) a light weight spoiler set with the spoiler stands to be trimmed inside (this will give some extra weight, about 5gr and it looks more realistic to) :D You could also add some very expensive titanium wheel outdrives (53681) to the universals and this will give (so i think) another 8gr or more of weight saving) :D For now i have the electronics on one site but to have a more balanced car i should re-locate the ESC to the side of the battery. All these things will be done before the next race, my little girl runs the car in a junior series (only silvercan motor allowed). I've been doing this because our next races are on large outdoor tracks were speed can be a big advance :D When all these things are done i will do my best to take a picture of it. So stay tuned :D |
I look forward to see your car here, perhaps we can use both our ideas to have the ultimate TT-02 chassis :sneaky:
I will be re-locating the esc tonight and see how it turns out on the 4 weight scales. |
Here are some pictures of my hoped up TT-02.
The car weights race ready 1180gr (except a personal transponder, but that's another 10gr) http://i946.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps9923b665.jpg http://i946.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps5eae7dd7.jpg http://i946.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps2acd218f.jpg http://i946.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps272401de.jpg http://i946.photobucket.com/albums/a...psa87b1ed8.jpg http://i946.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps38c65aba.jpg I'm also being busy to modify some alu diff outdrives from a TRF417, it does fit the TT-02 but i need to have a little more space for the swing shaft protector. I've already done 1 alu diff outdrive and it's been fitted to the rear of the TT-02 chassis. This would be another weight saving between 4 or 5gr :D |
Today i had the chance to test the car along with my other standard TT-02.
The car felt absolutely stunning, it feld well balanced, very quick acceleration and it carried a lot of speed on the straight. The difference in (my best lap time) between the standard and the race spec TT-02 was almost a second. Both cars had the same FDR (90T spur with a 42T pinion), that was a bit high for the track i went to but it means the car can go even faster with the correct FDR. All in all, a very good result for all the effort i put into it. I will continue my search for more weight saving, therefor i allready ordered the FXX 26mm wheels with an offset of 4mm. Meaning, that i'm able to mount the alu wheel hexes to save some more rotation mass and weight :D Perhaps i could also clean the ball bearings to get the best rotation out of them. I checked the lap times of the last race at the track i went to and i was even faster then the fastest guys of that day even with a slower motor :D |
Looking good :) I have to fit std electronics (battery). I'm waiting for my screws (titanium) to arrive before the final weigh in. I also have done slits for tape :)
|
I've also removed the rear lower part (the same part that must be used in front for mounting the foam bumper), now with my personal transponder fitted the car weights under 1180gr.
My goal is to get the weight down to 1170gr race ready. I'm also thinking to mount some ball differentials, don't know if that would improve the cars handling but from what i've been reading it should improve. |
At the moment I have a gear diff in the rear (with a drop of thick grease to make it feel similar to a 2-3k oil diff.
The front has a spool at the moment, although I have got some 1000,000 putty to fit in the front diff soon to try that. I have to run to 1350g so I am building the car around that :) |
Today i went to a large outdoor track to test the car.
I was able to compare the speed with some other guys and the car was very fast. The other guy was running a faster motor with also a bigger pinion and on the straight i was even a bit faster then him. Will order some ball diffs to see if that will improve my fastest track times. I will keep you informed :D I'm also being busy with painting a new light weight NSX 2005 body, just need to order another lightweight rear wing. Pictures will follow :D |
Originally Posted by Smile
(Post 13269016)
Damn, the reinforced a-parts has an 8 digit part number, which means they're not readily available, and is by order. Why can't Tamiya make this an official TT02 hop-up?
By the way, if I ordered one, would it come with two trees or only one? |
Originally Posted by addicted2blue
(Post 13298347)
Today i went to a large outdoor track to test the car.
I was able to compare the speed with some other guys and the car was very fast. The other guy was running a faster motor with also a bigger pinion and on the straight i was even a bit faster then him. Just being curious... What were those other cars like compared to your TT-02? Reason for asking, I drive a TB03 in our TC Club competition ( 17.5T). I like the TB03 very much and its fun to drive. Even though the TB03 is pretty basic I won the first race with it against better and newer cars. So I've thinking of buying a TT-02 drift spec and getting it race ready...just as a new challenge...in our club competition. What do you guys think?? Will the challenge be worthwhile or should I just forget about it?? :lol: |
Originally Posted by JD Skyline
(Post 13299457)
Just being curious... What were those other cars like compared to your TT-02?
Reason for asking, I drive a TB03 in our TC Club competition ( 17.5T). I like the TB03 very much and its fun to drive. Even though the TB03 is pretty basic I won the first race with it against better and newer cars. So I've thinking of buying a TT-02 drift spec and getting it race ready...just as a new challenge...in our club competition. What do you guys think?? Will the challenge be worthwhile or should I just forget about it?? :lol: The track is large enough to use even larger pinions but that's the maximum of pinion he can use at our belgian tamiyacup series. There were other guys running some TA04 and Schumacher cars (don't know the type of them and i also don't know what kind of motors they were running) but still i was faster then those guys. To give u an answer to your question if it's worth to buy the TT-02D version, then i must say that in my opinion i find it a challenge to have a less better car and to tune it to it's maximum and then challenge those better cars on the track. Most of the time i'm able to have equal or better lap times then those guys with better cars and faster motors. But this all comes down to drive the car to it's maximum abilities and to drive as smooth and as fast as you can on the track without making any mistakes. Personal i think the TT-02 has a lot of potential, but to get the car improved to it's maximum then it will cost a lot of money. For that money you can easily buy a TRF version. For example, somtimes i check on sites what it would cost me for buying all the hop-up parts that can improve the cars handling of weight and without the car itself it costs easily over $300 on parts (without shipping cost or other electronics). That's more then 2 or 3 times the cost of the car. If that's worthed to you then you should do it, but it still is a lot of money to spend on a basic car. |
Originally Posted by addicted2blue
(Post 13299641)
The other guy that was running with me had also a TT-02, but he had a brushed carson cup motor (wich has a significant higher rpm then a torque tuned motor) and he was running a 46T pinion while i was only using a 44T pinion.
The track is large enough to use even larger pinions but that's the maximum of pinion he can use at our belgian tamiyacup series. There were other guys running some TA04 and Schumacher cars (don't know the type of them and i also don't know what kind of motors they were running) but still i was faster then those guys. To give u an answer to your question if it's worth to buy the TT-02D version, then i must say that in my opinion i find it a challenge to have a less better car and to tune it to it's maximum and then challenge those better cars on the track. Most of the time i'm able to have equal or better lap times then those guys with better cars and faster motors. But this all comes down to drive the car to it's maximum abilities and to drive as smooth and as fast as you can on the track without making any mistakes. Personal i think the TT-02 has a lot of potential, but to get the car improved to it's maximum then it will cost a lot of money. For that money you can easily buy a TRF version. For example, somtimes i check on sites what it would cost me for buying all the hop-up parts that can improve the cars handling of weight and without the car itself it costs easily over $300 on parts (without shipping cost or other electronics). That's more then 2 or 3 times the cost of the car. If that's worthed to you then you should do it, but it still is a lot of money to spend on a basic car. I think its worth it to give it try again. Maybe not money wise, like you pointed out, but just for the fun of it..hahaha. and I love a challenge:D Maybe we see each other at the final Belgian/Dutch Tamiyacup race at the Baanbrekers Rucphen racetrack. :sneaky::nod: |
Originally Posted by JD Skyline
(Post 13300189)
Well thanx for your reply.;) It is good to read you also think the chassis has potential. Like u do, I like the challenge to get the max out of a car and like you put it, challenge those better cars on the track. In this case the TT-02. Dont get me wrong I love to drive those other cars like the TB-03, the TA05verII R, the TA-04 proSS :blush: Drove them all, But I find it relatively easy to compete with those cars. To be honest I had the best time (most fun) driving my TT-01 type E.. and compete with the other "better"cars..
I think its worth it to give it try again. Maybe not money wise, like you pointed out, but just for the fun of it..hahaha. and I love a challenge:D Maybe we see each other at the final Belgian/Dutch Tamiyacup race at the Baanbrekers Rucphen racetrack. :sneaky::nod: It is possible to go low in FDR but when going to the Dutch/belgian final al gears and parts must be from tamiya. In the past the belgian drivers were not allowed to use other brands of gears but from what i heard is that this will be the case for all drivers. Cause a FF-03 chassis is unable to have the same low FDR for example as a TA05 or TA06, except when using some other brands of gears. And that was the case last year when a FF-03 driver was faster then other cars like my TA06 or TB03 from Eric-Jan or others. A 90T spur and a 50T pinion is the maximum you can mount in a TT-02, this will give you a FDR of 4.68. In the super stock series the lowest FDR you can use is a 90T spur on a 46T pinion, but in this series you are only allowed to use a TT-01 or a TT-02 chassis. In the EuroTW series i was using a FDR of 4.25, that's way lower then what can be mounted in a TT-02. |
Yep as above the TT02 is fun if you take it as it is and just go about trying to see what you can get out of it.
If you are not doing Tamiya races you can easily get a low FDR to be able to gear a TT02 to run anywhere. http://www.thercracer.com/2014/04/ta...ta-blinky.html |
Originally Posted by addicted2blue
(Post 13300412)
I will be there at the belgian/dutch final, just keep in mind that a TT-02 has less possibilities to have the same low FDR then those other cars have.
It is possible to go low in FDR but when going to the Dutch/belgian final al gears and parts must be from tamiya. In the past the belgian drivers were not allowed to use other brands of gears but from what i heard is that this will be the case for all drivers. Cause a FF-03 chassis is unable to have the same low FDR for example as a TA05 or TA06, except when using some other brands of gears. And that was the case last year when a FF-03 driver was faster then other cars like my TA06 or TB03 from Eric-Jan or others. A 90T spur and a 50T pinion is the maximum you can mount in a TT-02, this will give you a FDR of 4.68. In the super stock series the lowest FDR you can use is a 90T spur on a 46T pinion, but in this series you are only allowed to use a TT-01 or a TT-02 chassis. In the EuroTW series i was using a FDR of 4.25, that's way lower then what can be mounted in a TT-02. So regarding FDR I can check the tips on website The RC Racer from Qatmix and use the Yeah Racing motormount :sneaky: For the Tamiyacup race I think I will join the super stock or EuroTW with the TT02. I think hahaha. Because in the EuroTW series the lowest FDR you are allowed to use is 5.0. According to my calculations, with a 90 T spur and 46 T pinion an FDR of 5.09 is achievable! Are they using the Belgian or Dutch Tamiyacup regulations for the Final in september?? |
Originally Posted by JD Skyline
(Post 13301694)
Well I would like to use the TT-02 for our local club competition. At this competition we are allowed to use every available hop-up for the car except for the 17.5T motor and a 2s lipo...
So regarding FDR I can check the tips on website The RC Racer from Qatmix and use the Yeah Racing motormount :sneaky: For the Tamiyacup race I think I will join the super stock or EuroTW with the TT02. I think hahaha. Because in the EuroTW series the lowest FDR you are allowed to use is 5.0. According to my calculations, with a 90 T spur and 46 T pinion an FDR of 5.09 is achievable! Are they using the Belgian or Dutch Tamiyacup regulations for the Final in september?? Last thursday i went to Rucphen and the car was absolutely great There is a possibility that i will join in de super stock series, just for fun and because the car is a plesure to drive. So maybe we meet each other at the race ;) |
Originally Posted by addicted2blue
(Post 13301771)
@ the belgian tamiyacup there is no FDR limit, but it's possible that they will limit the FDR at the finals cause of last years gearing problems between the dutch&belgian drivers. But i'm not sure.
Last thursday i went to Rucphen and the car was absolutely great There is a possibility that i will join in de super stock series, just for fun and because the car is a plesure to drive. So maybe we meet each other at the race ;) |
Anyone using the YR 55mm damper set and if so are there other larger springs that can be used for the tt02. My tt02 is riding around 19mm for off road but the rebound due to the height is minimal and quite hard. Not sure if having longer springs can help yet also retaining a taller ride height if this makes sense..
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DJ I think we need a dedicated TT02 thread in the off-road section!!! :-)
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Tomorrow i will post some pictures of a fresh painted NSX 2005 body for my race spec TT-02 :sneaky:
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here are some pictures of my little girls fresh painted body, she will be using this body on the race spec TT-02 :D
I did use some glitter in the red paint, she likes it a lot. http://i946.photobucket.com/albums/a...pse3f9b8e8.jpg Here you can see that i totally forgot the mask of some headlights;) http://i946.photobucket.com/albums/a...psc5ee513b.jpg In this picture you can see that the rear lights have been painted instead of using a decal. http://i946.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps0bf29566.jpg In this picture you can see also her brand new DT-03 with the same paint layout. http://i946.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps08d3789c.jpg http://i946.photobucket.com/albums/a...pse39c4d08.jpg |
They look great!
I have bought a TT02 and have used this to help build it http://www.thercracer.com/2013/05/ta...nd-review.html The car handles well, but has anyone run a 13.5 brushless in the car as I have been told that it will work with the speed controller that comes in the kit. |
Originally Posted by shaftboy
(Post 13330383)
They look great!
I have bought a TT02 and have used this to help build it http://www.thercracer.com/2013/05/ta...nd-review.html The car handles well, but has anyone run a 13.5 brushless in the car as I have been told that it will work with the speed controller that comes in the kit. This ESC should even handle up to a 10.5T motor, but you need top check the temps on the ESC cause they recommend to use a cooling fan for the ESC. The cooling fan can be founded from tamiya, it's called the TFU-01 ESC cooling fan (part nr 45063). Hope this helps. |
Got in the mail Top cad 55mm dampers
All alloy, hopefully better than standard dampers with plastic tops and bottoms especially for off road in my TT02R. The finish is nice, they didn't include a bladder/sponge which I can easily transfer from my 55mm YR set. Time will tell. http://www.topcad.com.hk/images/13314lb-1.jpg |
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