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-   -   Tamiya TT02 Thread (https://www.rctech.net/forum/electric-road/700357-tamiya-tt02-thread.html)

PizzaDude 01-13-2018 09:38 AM

Not me
Use the TT02D uprights
Different type of plastic

MD 01-13-2018 09:42 AM


Originally Posted by PizzaDude (Post 15128778)
Not me
Use the TT02D uprights
Different type of plastic

Thanks

tobyzhang 01-13-2018 04:43 PM

For anyone looking to use TT02 platform to start TCS Spec Novice class, I have made two blog post on some build tips etc. Please check it out if you are interested.

https://tobyrcadventure.blogspot.com...ss-part-1.html

https://tobyrcadventure.blogspot.com...part-2-in.html

MD 01-13-2018 05:03 PM

Do you have setup tips for the TT02 Pro Spec Class?

tobyzhang 01-13-2018 05:26 PM


Originally Posted by MD (Post 15129057)
Do you have setup tips for the TT02 Pro Spec Class?

My setup for spec novice is actually based on setup for pro spec for last year. This is because this year spec novice is moving to pro spec tire for yesteryear. There is very limited amount of things you setup for pro spec which is the point of the class I guess. For me the biggest thing is getting the right amount of down travel out of the car and widen track to make the car more stable. Front I use 2.5 to 3 mm spacers in the shock and rear I use 2mm to 2.5mm depending on track condition. You can't use +2 wheels in pro spec so I guess your best bet is to use 6mm wheel hex and use 0.5 or 1mm spacer on top of that. Yellow spring front and blue springs rear seems to be the ticket for asphalt. This setup make the turn in predictable and rear stiff enough to not over roll and over rotate. Also make sure you use the toe in rear upright.

MD 01-13-2018 06:51 PM


Originally Posted by tobyzhang (Post 15129074)
My setup for spec novice is actually based on setup for pro spec for last year. This is because this year spec novice is moving to pro spec tire for yesteryear. There is very limited amount of things you setup for pro spec which is the point of the class I guess. For me the biggest thing is getting the right amount of down travel out of the car and widen track to make the car more stable. Front I use 2.5 to 3 mm spacers in the shock and rear I use 2mm to 2.5mm depending on track condition. You can't use +2 wheels in pro spec so I guess your best bet is to use 6mm wheel hex and use 0.5 or 1mm spacer on top of that. Yellow spring front and blue springs rear seems to be the ticket for asphalt. This setup make the turn in predictable and rear stiff enough to not over roll and over rotate. Also make sure you use the toe in rear upright.

Thanks a lot for your help.

LJH 01-17-2018 07:55 AM


Originally Posted by tobyzhang (Post 15129074)
Yellow spring front and blue springs rear seems to be the ticket for asphalt.


You are running stiffer springs in the back then the front? I have found that my standard TT02 with -2* rear toe was pretty tail happy with the stock springs all the way around (using CVA's).

I originally started with Blue fronts and yellow rears on my none prepared, somewhat bumpy, surface. I have since gone to yellow front and red rears to soften it up a bit but have not really gotten a chance to run it as we are gone every weekend skiing during this time of the year.

Cheers,
Jim

tobyzhang 01-18-2018 11:27 PM


Originally Posted by LJH (Post 15132260)
You are running stiffer springs in the back then the front? I have found that my standard TT02 with -2* rear toe was pretty tail happy with the stock springs all the way around (using CVA's).

I originally started with Blue fronts and yellow rears on my none prepared, somewhat bumpy, surface. I have since gone to yellow front and red rears to soften it up a bit but have not really gotten a chance to run it as we are gone every weekend skiing during this time of the year.

Cheers,
Jim

The stock springs seems too long and too stiff and the touring car set seems to be much better suited.

What I have found is there are two modes that a car on track will lose rear traction. One is when the traction is low and the rear spring is too stiff. The stiff rear springs load the rear tire quicker than the tire can gains traction from the weight transfer. This usually happens on asphalt tracks that is dusty/low traction. Second is in high traction situations where the front tire generate turning force so quickly that the rear spring doesn't provide enough stiffness to load the rear tires fast and hard enough to generate enough traction to maintain rear traction. I personally experienced this in Japan during TCS world.

I run blue springs rear and yellow springs front at Tamiya where the track has decent grip with B3 and good grip with solaris 36. TT02, unlike most racing platform, have about the same spring leverage front and rear. Usually on chassis like TRF419 the rear wheel rate will be much higher than the front wheel rate when using the same springs front and rear. With TT02 you have to go up one rate in the rear to achieve similar spring rate split like a TRF car when using the same spring front and rear.

LJH 01-19-2018 06:27 AM


Originally Posted by tobyzhang (Post 15133909)
The stock springs seems too long and too stiff and the touring car set seems to be much better suited.

What I have found is there are two modes that a car on track will lose rear traction. One is when the traction is low and the rear spring is too stiff. The stiff rear springs load the rear tire quicker than the tire can gains traction from the weight transfer. This usually happens on asphalt tracks that is dusty/low traction. Second is in high traction situations where the front tire generate turning force so quickly that the rear spring doesn't provide enough stiffness to load the rear tires fast and hard enough to generate enough traction to maintain rear traction. I personally experienced this in Japan during TCS world.

I run blue springs rear and yellow springs front at Tamiya where the track has decent grip with B3 and good grip with solaris 36. TT02, unlike most racing platform, have about the same spring leverage front and rear. Usually on chassis like TRF419 the rear wheel rate will be much higher than the front wheel rate when using the same springs front and rear. With TT02 you have to go up one rate in the rear to achieve similar spring rate split like a TRF car when using the same spring front and rear.

I agree, the stock springs are quite stiff compared to the Tamiya TC car springs. They are also a bit longer but did not have any preload without spacers.

I feel like I have a pretty decent understanding of suspensions but what I know is from racing full scale cars in a "stock" configuration (SCCA C-Stock) so I was not allowed to play with spring rates.

In measuring the arms on my regular TT02 the front and rear arms are the same length between pick up points and the hubs are the same in distance from the outboard pick ups but the front lower shock mount is about 3MM closer to the hub then in the rear, and to take this a step further Tamiya indicates to use the top inboard shock mount on the rear and outboard in the front. All this indicates to me that the Tamiya was trying to "soften" up the rear which in turn decreases steady state oversteer. Also reading the couple set ups I have found on the TT02 you are the only one I have seen to be running stiffer rear springs than front springs.

BTW, this is in no way saying you are wrong as it seems you spend a fair amount of time racing your TT02 where I just build a circuit on a couple tennis courts (dusty and bumpy) and run hot laps but I do find your set up a bit unorthodox but will give it a shot. What are you running weight wise for shock oil?

Cheers,
Jim

tobyzhang 01-19-2018 09:25 AM

I use 35wt all around. On tennis court I would agree to use softer rear to maintain rear grip. When we use locked front diff it usually counters the steady state oversteer so we can get away with harder rear.

LJH 01-19-2018 12:11 PM


Originally Posted by tobyzhang (Post 15134225)
I use 35wt all around. On tennis court I would agree to use softer rear to maintain rear grip. When we use locked front diff it usually counters the steady state oversteer so we can get away with harder rear.

I am not locked but I am running 100K up front.

Once I am back to running the car more often I will have to experiment a bit more. The tennis courts I run at can be pretty slick at times as they get dusty but with that said I showed up one day and the courts had significantly more grip and I could see that they had been power washed. While the grip was much higher the car felt terrible and just would not rotate.

Cheers,
Jim

Nortran11 01-22-2018 10:20 PM

I raced my Type S on asphalt all season last summer and this was my setup -

medium springs on all four corners, 30w shock oil. -1.5 camber front, -2 rear. +1 toe front, -3 rear, ride height 5.5. spooled front diff rear ball diff. droop was set 1.5 front, 2.5 rear.

This car was on absolute rails all season and with a torque tuned motor was outpacing most 21.5 GT3 cars.

Stewmac 01-26-2018 01:55 PM

hey guys,
i'm building up a bit of a speed run car from a TT02. i have the stock version of the car and i'm slowly upgrading things as i go.

from what i have been able to find the TT02S has the best suspension options.

I need a little help finding the right parts to upgrade to the S type suspension.
I have a 190mm body so are is the S type suspension wider?

I need to be running all steel drive chain. i have found the Tamiya 54477 metal drive cups and also the Tamiya 54515 42mm shafts. will these work on both front and rear?

i also need to get a hold of some aluminium hubs and C carriers but as its for speed i need 0deg camber. i can have a little toe but i would like to have that adjustable.

thank you for your time guys!

i would show some pic's but not able to at this time

MostWanted4TEC 01-26-2018 07:32 PM

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...0fe419e358.jpg

Hey all heres my TT-02. NSX body with HPI wing, 40shore foams, Tamiya Springs hard rear, med front. 50t pinion 67t spur 64p. SkyRc 3.5 motor with Toro 150TS esc. Took her out for a few test passes and the foams hooked awesome! My main runner for 132' no prep. Gonna have some final pics soon all painted. Got dampers and ball bearings on order

Jay12341985 02-24-2018 11:51 AM

Hi folks. Took me a while to read that lot! I hope you can help me. I have a stock d type s. I find it pushes a lot. If i leave the springs with no preload then it hooks badly mid corner. To counter this i added a lot of preload ot the rear. This leaves me with a very high rear end but its also nailed down but now i push through the bends. And advice please? Tamiya springs are on the way. But im wondering what shock positions you run top and bottom to get ride hight? Thanks

Raman 02-24-2018 12:13 PM

What sort of surface are you running? Asphalt?

Best way to set up the car is to first set up ride height with preloads. 5mm front and back is a good start. Then you want to set up the suspension droop.. how much the arms droop down when you pick up the front with the tower and the back. When you pick up the front, you want the arms to droop very little... maybe 0,5 mm. Rear you want about 1-1,5.

To achieve this, you either need to buy the optional droop tabs for the type S suspension, or place o-rings inside the dampers to reduce the downward movement

The balance between front and rear will help the behaviour of the car on corner entry, mid corner and corner exit. It all depends on surface etc

Jay12341985 02-24-2018 01:11 PM

Hi thank you yes dropp was going to be next to try. So with stock springs i dont get low enough i have 2 blue springs to try untill the full kit turns up but that feels very soft. Are you running the stock tower and arm mount holes?

It feels like with such a small amount of droop ill be running on the bump stops when braking and turning. Is that right?

Even with blues on the car feels soft

Jay12341985 02-24-2018 01:27 PM

I suppose that should be running in the droop or rebound stops �� im also wondering about the hooking i experianced when i was running with justvthe atock spring with no preload. That would of had me at the closest to 5mm i have run but the car felt like it had a lot of weight transfer and also hooked badly mid corner.
This is all on a very good condition ashphelt car park so medium grip as its cold

Raman 02-24-2018 02:11 PM

Tamiya blue springs are actually the hardest springs. For asphalt, I would run yellow on front and red in rear.

Jay12341985 02-25-2018 02:45 AM

Ah ok. I didnt think they should be do soft. Will that not make the hooking mid corner worse? Thanks

Raman 02-25-2018 12:51 PM

Test it out

Jay12341985 02-25-2018 02:22 PM

i will. Time is very limited for testing. I get a short time each week to.play hense the research. Are you using the trf ahor springs to get the ride hight?

Nortran11 02-25-2018 08:08 PM

Ran my TT02 S on carpet for the first time this week.....what a pig. While I drove it to second place, it was the hardest I've ever had to drive that car. It pushed hard in corners, the lack of sway bars was very evident in the high speed corners. I think I've come up with a solution that will allow me to mount sway bars (I'll post it if it works)

Raman 02-25-2018 10:19 PM

This was my set up in usgt for carpet

Ride height 5
Droop - 2,5 over ride height in front and 1,5 in rear
Camber - 1,5º all around
Front toe - 1,0º toe out
Dampers TRF419 big bores
Shocks Muchmore 400 wt
Springs Muchmore X springs Red front (firm) Pink rear (medium)

Diff - Front epoxied / locked, Rear 10k (using my diff mod in this post R/C Tech Forums - View Single Post - Tamiya TT02 Thread

Car was extremely competitive. I stopped running it because of the rear portion of chassis breaking when rear axle stud would catch a pipe and break... I even broke the hardened chassis this way..

Nortran11 02-25-2018 10:49 PM

That's almost a mirror copy of my setup. I'm running a ball diff in the rear, locked in the front.

The only major difference is dampers. I'm running TRF black coated with stiff front springs and med rear springs.

This was on grey CRC carpet with SXT 3.0 sauce on Gravity USGT tires

Jay12341985 02-25-2018 10:55 PM

thanks you thats great info, realy appreciate it. I rebuilt the shocks last night (mini CVA) with a some orings to reduce my droop, im still not down to 5mm ride hight so when the springs arrive ill try the medium rear and see if that gets me where i need to be. i rebuilt with a 35wt oil with the 1 hole piston. I have around -1.5 up front -2 in the rear with unknown toe, im guessing at around 1deg. also running heavy oil in the front diff, this did help last week. thanks again for the info, ill see how this setup works :-)

thanks again.

RONAMYTH 02-27-2018 09:23 AM

Got a box stock TT02 for my son to run at TCS events in novice. Car ran fine in practice on black carpet. First qualifier got some traction roll, so between quals I super glued sidewalls. Second qualifier car ran great when making left hand turns but would spin out on right hand turns. Could not find anything mechanically wrong with the car, looked at diffs, dogbones, etc...nothing-even tried different tires with same result. In final car did same thing. Got home and still can not find anything wrong with car. HELP! WHAT IS GOING ON? THX

craig santry 02-27-2018 05:01 PM


Originally Posted by RONAMYTH (Post 15169636)
Got a box stock TT02 for my son to run at TCS events in novice. Car ran fine in practice on black carpet. First qualifier got some traction roll, so between quals I super glued sidewalls. Second qualifier car ran great when making left hand turns but would spin out on right hand turns. Could not find anything mechanically wrong with the car, looked at diffs, dogbones, etc...nothing-even tried different tires with same result. In final car did same thing. Got home and still can not find anything wrong with car. HELP! WHAT IS GOING ON? THX

what tires were you running?

simple 02-28-2018 03:34 AM

...I'd also double check the bearings in the outdrives, as well as verify your steering travel is the same left to right, lock to lock.

f1larry 02-28-2018 03:50 PM

Any secrets on how not to pop out dog bones (besides not hitting anything) for a box stock (except for super mini shocks and aluminum motor mount) car?

RONAMYTH 02-28-2018 10:19 PM


Originally Posted by craig santry (Post 15170043)
what tires were you running?

Kit stock rubber tires, but I tried a different set that someone loaned me with the same results.

I am thinking that it is in the drive train because going straight and turning left there are no problems

RONAMYTH 02-28-2018 10:20 PM


Originally Posted by simple (Post 15170322)
...I'd also double check the bearings in the outdrives, as well as verify your steering travel is the same left to right, lock to lock.

Bearings are fine and steering is the same left and right

RONAMYTH 02-28-2018 10:26 PM


Originally Posted by f1larry (Post 15170875)
Any secrets on how not to pop out dog bones (besides not hitting anything) for a box stock (except for super mini shocks and aluminum motor mount) car?

Unfortunately no tricks or secrets, just have to replace with 53792 universal shaft assembly or equivalent

Jay12341985 03-02-2018 07:40 AM

No testing this week. Damn weather. Question on motors now.
Im running a sport tuned which is about the pace we all run. Id likento go brushless for increaded run time not more speed. Would a 17.5t be roughly in the same region as the sport tuned but give increased run time?

Thanks

DoubleRR24 03-02-2018 07:45 AM


Originally Posted by Jay12341985 (Post 15172189)
No testing this week. Damn weather. Question on motors now.
Im running a sport tuned which is about the pace we all run. Id likento go brushless for increaded run time not more speed. Would a 17.5t be roughly in the same region as the sport tuned but give increased run time?

Thanks

I could be wrong but I think they range between 23t and 27t. Do you have a model number you can provide?

I think a 17.5t motor would be much faster than the sport tuned.

simple 03-02-2018 12:43 PM

I think increased runtime would be an incorrect expectation to switch to brushless.

Brushless provides reduced maintenance and increased speed/power. The gear ratio will be completely different for brushless, so if you go that route, you'll need the spur gear mod and go to a much smaller 64pitch spur than what is stock with the kits.

If you want more runtime, upgrade the lipo cells to a higher capacity.

Jay12341985 03-02-2018 01:08 PM

so it was a 17.5t brushless i was thinking, i think the sport tuned is 23t (brushed) I thought they may have been comparable but maybe im off, maybe 21.5t would be closer?

yeh i already have the high speed gear set in. i will gear it to run roughly the same speed as i run now.
I run with a few other guys and we want competition so im not after higher speed
but in general if using a brushless system vs brushed if your doing roughly the same work then brush less is more efficient and so all else being equal uses less power.

its certainly true in other applications but other factors could be at play here?

wtcc 03-04-2018 09:05 AM

My friends and I had an awesome weekend taking part in the Tamiya Euro Cup Stock class (TT-02 box stock, even esc and motor). I could win the class after hard fights through qualifying and finals.

https://abload.de/img/dbd40207-c58c-4b00-8ueoz3.jpeg

https://abload.de/img/de7c6cd9-ad40-4035-ag7ok4.jpeg

https://abload.de/img/106328a3-8302-468f-arxofd.jpeg

https://abload.de/img/45d7a99d-270b-4467-bqbp8a.jpeg


Here is the full story:
https://www.facebook.com/blautalrcca...90338654417875


And videos:

https://m.youtube.com/watch?t=119s&v=XBJRy8YleXs

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=WgXBs2NL-8U

f1larry 03-04-2018 02:07 PM

Fix

JD Skyline 03-05-2018 12:29 AM

[QUOTE=wtcc;15173603]My friends and I had an awesome weekend taking part in the Tamiya Euro Cup Stock class (TT-02 box stock, even esc and motor). I could win the class after hard fights through qualifying and finals.

https://abload.de/img/dbd40207-c58c-4b00-8ueoz3.jpeg

https://abload.de/img/de7c6cd9-ad40-4035-ag7ok4.jpeg

https://abload.de/img/106328a3-8302-468f-arxofd.jpeg

https://abload.de/img/45d7a99d-270b-4467-bqbp8a.jpeg


Here is the full story:
https://www.facebook.com/blautalrcca...90338654417875


And videos:

https://m.youtube.com/watch?t=119s&v=XBJRy8YleXs

Congrats with your win. Nice videos and pictures...:ha::nod:


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