Hello guys. Could you explain shock mounting positions, please? I know TT02B and Type S have more positions than the standard TT02. How does handling change? What about on and off road setup?

Not sure about offroad, but onroad using the outer holes make this side of the car more agile. In theory the damper gets a little "harder". If you change the front to the outter holes it will react faster and more directly to steering inputs. The rear position is mostly in a more lay down position than the front. If you use the outter upper hole here, the rear will turn better with the car, but is more likely to step out on the limit. Using the inner holes will generate a more calm and forgiving rear end.
So I would use these positions to fine tune the balance of the chassis, even though you feel these changes much less than on a pro cfk chassis car.

So, I've got a TT02 chassis with a rather hot motor in it. I stripped the ring and pinion to my front diff.

What's the recomended way to hardening the drivetrain to deal with high horsepower on the TT02?

I ordered the GPM steel ring gear... I've heard about using some other tamiya cars metal gear diffs, but I can't find a good set of part numbers for those.

Thank you!

Check nothing was binding. For onroad the drivetrain is strong for most motors. I've even mounted a 5.5t in one :) The only mods were bearings and the alloy prop and cups.

If you want steel diffs the TT01 had heavy steel diff internals. So a TT01 differential will fit.

nope, it was all fine. It's actually a TT02b, with a 13.5 in it... so... i'm asking for trouble. Still, advice is advice. :-) The diff itself survived, the ring gear and pinion have not.

You can use the metal ring gear and propshaft bevel gear from a DF02. The bevel is #5455040, the ring gear is 3454029 and the diff case is 0555104 (the DF02 Gravel Hound manual is downloadable off Tamiya.com).

. Perhaps you're unlucky, I run a boosted 13.5 in my TT02B and the front diff is fine. The rear clicks occasionally but I do drive it with due consideration for it not having a slipper so no landing off jumps under power.

Anyone know if the TT-02R can be adjusted to the 251mm wheelbase so that I can fit the Tamiya 1/10 RC Porsche 911 GT3 Cup VIP '07 body? (made for the TT-01E)

do you have your diffs shimmed? I don't.... I ordered some shims so I can make the mesh tighter. The diff has something like half a MM of side to side play, and that's a large fraction of the tooth engagement...

Yes. From memory it's a single 0.2mm shim. They can vary depending on the mould tolerance of the individual chassis. One of my TT02 cars has diffs shimmed with a 0.1mm in front but a 0.3 in the rear! You don't want to take all the backlash out though or the drivetrain will be too tight.

As the R uses regular TT02 top and bottom arms I believe you can shorten to 251 like a regular TT02. The alloy hubs shouldn't stop you doing that. Caveat: I don't have an R but too many normal ones and far too many Type S versions lol.

I suspect my lack of shims lead to my newfound lack of teeth. Oddly enough, my family ~litterally~ makes gears for a living, so I have some grasp on this. :-) I orders some .1mm shims so I can do the stack properly.

I've also got the fancy hard chassis.

I too have the Hard Deck in blue on my recently rebuilt Type S. I ran it last weekend on gray carpet with an old 17x2 brushed motor and it felt very direct. I like it a lot.

If I bought a TT02R, what are other must have upgrades for TCS?

Hello All,
After 7 years I am getting back into an "on-road" car after my F201 and TA-03 were stolen in a home robbery. I found a sealed TT02 Porsche RSR on RCgroups for $100 delivered so I thought what the heck. I am a big rally fan (I own a full scale '84 Audi Turbo quattro coupe) and plan on building this into a rally car.

With that said I have read quite a bit on the TT02 last night but have some questions on some parts I am looking at.

Shocks- Are the 54753 Super Mini CVA the correct shock to go with? As for oil should I go 40wt or drop down to 30wt for rally?

Shims- One thing I have learned about Tamiya kits over the years is that shimming the suspension helps a lot. I am assuming that I need 3MM ID shims for that? I have also read that it is a good idea to shim the diff's and wondering what size shims I need for that.

Steering- One thing that annoys me is sloppy steering. While I am trying to keep this a pretty budget build and not looking to go full Aluminum I am wondering if the 54550 stepped screws are worthwhile? They are cheap and I have read some positive reviews. On the TA03 it was common practice to use small o-rings in the ball links to take out some slop, it this necessary on the TT02?

Differentials- So I am use to ball diffs but reading about using different weight grease and oil in the diffs to get the proper limiting effects. I laymans terms what should I put in the front and rear?

Bearings- Already ordered.

I also have an old Novak Havoc 17.5 turn motor/ESC which was going to go in the TA03 back in the day. The motor looks like it is 2200KV so I am guessing the stock gearing would be fine?

Anything I am missing?

Thanks.

Cheers,
Jim

The usuals.. cvd, better dampers. Steering arms..

My M05, and TT02b both have.. pretty sloppy steering. Well "had" sloppy steering. The M05 I swapped out for metal steering gear. I have it ordered for the TT02 as well.

To reduce slop on any ball cup, I use a slice of silicone tube that's ~very lightly lubed~ with light oil. The slice allows adjustment of the preload on the ball cup.

IIRC, the shims for the differential are 8mm shims. (at least that's what I ordered for my car...)

Perfect,
Thanks for intel.

I did a bunch of reading on diffs last night and I may be more confused now then I was. The car will be used on unprepared tarmac and dirt. It sounds like the less grip there is the "locking" you need? Anyone care to take a educated guess what I should run. I will not be racing at all but just looking for some guidance here.

Thanks.

Cheers,
Jim

We've started a spec class at our indoor racing club - TT02, Torque Tuned motors. Basically kit plus bearings. No other mods.

Some great racing is happening, but last night in one race 3 of us all lot a front doggone in one race. I understand the flex and slop in these things, but is there any cheap way of minimising this? O rings in the cups or anything? Or just accept its going to happen from time to time?

you want to keep the rear diff relatively free. Tamiya AW grease works well for adding a little resistance. A common practice is to either run aw grease in the from as well , or if you like more "front pull" you can run a putty filled diff.

I just completed an R for USGT have not tested it out yet but that time will come
http://i1277.photobucket.com/albums/...psxd9aauv3.jpg

Not a very inexpensive way to solve it, but how it is solved in the Tamiya Euro Cup is with parts 53792 and 54477.

Yeah, thats the obvious way. No CVDs, or other major mods allowed though.

I think the class is a great idea. I would try "o" rings in the out drives. I wonder if you put a spacer inside the shock body to limit rebound if that would help? I have never tried it.

Aah ok...
My friends and I are driving the same rules as your class states, but later allowed this "tuning" as it doesn't change your speed and gives the freedom of contact racing. I for myself never had a problem with bones falling out. I guess it is a little different with each car...

A cheap alternative to O-rings is to use medium size glow fuel tubing. With a sharp razor blade, you can slice off whatever sized spacers you need. This also works inside the spring/shocks to limit ride height. A 12 inch piece of tubing would likely be more than enough for everyone.

https://abload.de/img/img_09125vurx.jpg

Our 90s DTM approach with TT-02 this season. Can't wait to battle it out :nod:

Nice!!

Indeed
Sehr Schon

Any race vids on youtube?
Which track do you race at?

On that particular day we ran this track in the video which shows me driving the FF03 chassis (cold weather again in Germany): https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=-yPAMpqyKRo

Normally we do parking lot racing with our TT02. Unfortunately no videos of our last years SuperGT series races :(

You can search for "Blautal RC Car Racer" on Facebook. There are some very nice pics of last years cars on track.

Hello Again all,
So I have all the parts I need inbound and hoping they are here in the next couple days. I have done a bunch of reading and I have a couple questions I have not found answers to and was wondering if anyone has any advise?

1. I am building the car in what I would call "tarmac rally spec" for unprepared roads and parking lots. I ordered CVA's and sport tuned springs. What piston would you recommend and with what weight oil? I am guessing I will want a bit softer set up for fairly low traction. I already have 30 and 40wt shock oil.

2. Gearing- So I still love flying inrunners in gear boxes on my planes and am pretty darn good at getting the gearing pretty decent right off the bat but I am a newbie to this whole car thing and not sure where I should start. I am going to run a old Novak 17.5 Havoc Sport, basically it is a 17.5 Blinky set up. I have not ordered the YR motor mount or the Speed Tuned Gears yet but it sounds like the stock gearing is pretty short. What would you think a good all around FDR would be for bashing that would produce a good turn of speed but also offer good grunt off the line all while keeping the motor "comfortable" temp wise.

I am looking forward to putting it together once the last box from Hong Kong arrives.

Love the DTM bodies above.....that was some great racing back in the day. I am a huge Audi fan (I have owned a Ur-S4, B5 S4 and currently a B6 S4 plus I own an original '84 Ur-q) and in my searching I found an Audi V8 DTM shell that looks sweet but they want like $70 for it....Maybe one of these days I will be feeling a bit flush and put it on order.

Thanks.

Cheers,
Jim

For 17.5 gearing, somewhere in the 4.2 - 4.5 range depending on the size of your running space. I am running a Trinity D3.5 17.5 with timing advanced all the way to the stop on a carpet track that is about 70x40 feet and running a 4.42 FDR. Temps after 5-6 minute race is staying around 105 degrees, but I am running a fan. The car jumps off the line and is pretty quick in the space. If you are running in a larger area, you could go a little lower on the FDR. Or, if you don't crank your timing up, you could run a lot lower FDR. Its up to you how you want the car to behave, but for me, I had too much torque with the lower timing setting.

Whatever you do, keep a temp gun handy and check after a minute or so after every ratio change or timing change. Keep it under 160 degrees and you should be fine.

-sweeeeeet!

Thanks for the info, that helps a lot.

Funny thing, I have been flying high performance RC planes for 20+ years and have always used my finger as a thermometer. If I can't keep my finger on the motor for 20 seconds it is too hot. I have yet to smoke a motor.

This morning before work I built my shocks, I went with the 2 hole piston and 40wt associated oil to start. Once I get the car running I will experiment.

Thanks again.

Cheers,
Jim

OK, another question.

I did some preliminary assembly of the drive line but have not gotten into the suspension as of yet because I am waiting on some shims. With that said I see in the manual that they recommend lubing the suspension pivot points, what are your thoughts on this? I am kind of the school of thought that if you grease them any dirt that gets in there will be trapped where are with no grease the dirt will get in there but it can also get out.

Thoughts?

Cheers,
Jim

We race mainly outdoors and never lube the suspension. And like you said it is not recommendable for catching all the dirt. I also would not recommentd to shim all the slop out of the car. I drive it with all slop and was fastest guy all weekend on one of the Eurocup races here in Germany. Even the extremly sloppy steering is no problem at all.

Dude! That FF03 rips! Good for you, that whole chassis layout with your ideas really shows.

Good to know on the lube subject.

As for shimming I will continue to do so. While I am far from an expert on racing RC cars I spent a few years campaigning in SCCA SOLO in full scale. There is a reason people spend thousands of dollars on Heim joints.

Cheers,
Jim

I would lube/not lube based on how it felt as you put it together. Trapped dirt may cause wear, but most people bust a-arms on a TT02 long before you would ever wear one out due to dust in the lube. So, whatever you choose will be fine in that regard.

I agree with you on the shims. I flew r/c helicopters for years and slop was the enemy. The slop will make the car a little less consistent, because it will behave differently based on what position the slop allows from corner to corner. Just the from toe and steering angle changes are enough to cause issue. If in one corner you have 1 degree of toe out and the next has one degree in, you are going to have a vastly different experience in those corners.

I am not discounting that some people can drive their cars like that and be very fast, but I am not one of those. And I'm not trying to start an internet argument, I just think shimming out slop is a good plan.

Hello All,
Last night I have pretty much finished the build of my TT02 Porsche chassis. As with all the Tamiya kits I have assembled it was a joy to put together. It took about 4 hours but a lot of that was Because I spent time finding just the right shim size to allow the arms to flop but not have much slop which I was able to achieve. I also cleaned the grease out of the bearings and applied lube to them.

I could have sworn that I had included the high speed gear set in my order but apparently I forgot it so that is on order with a spur and pinion to get me to 4.10 FDR which I am hoping works well for bashing.

I know this was suppose to be a low budget build but I am thinking about getting a new radio, I have a old and very basic Futaba AM radio but thinking of getting the Futaba 3PV which seems to offer some nice features and the reviews are decent.

I am still in a quandary as to how to paint it. I am not sure if I will follow the box art or if I will do some rendition of another Martini livery.....or maybe go with a street car paint job. Right now I am thinking of a facsimile of the #59 car that Hurley Haywood drove as I am a big Hurley fan.

Once it is done I will post some pics of it.

Here is my set up:
Bearings
CVA shocks- I built them with the two hole pistons and 40wt oil, Yellow springs in the rear and stock springs in the front which seem really stiff...to stiff?
Yeah Racing 2* rear hubs
Yeah Racing motor mount
High Speed Gear Set with 64P gears

Cheers,
Jim