Thanks EbbTide.
So sounds like similar setup to a belt driven TC then.

:)

Raman, curious how you got the 911 GT3 to fit on the Type S.

That body is for short wheel base cars and the Type S is long wheel base. Would love to use that body if you can share your tips for fitting it.

After doing it for so many years you would be surprised how accurate a finger can be.

Cheers,
Jim

Has anyone tried the Low Friction SUS balls for the front arms? Last night I put two packs through the TT02 and I had very inconsistent steering, felt like the servo was not centering . I took a look at it this morning and found that there was a lot of friction in the steering which I found out was being caused from me tightening up the fasteners that go through the balls and into the hubs....I am sure this happened when I was trying to reduce slop in the front arms. I loosened them up a 1/4 turn and all is good now but wondering if the low friction version of the balls help at all. I did actually order them as I needed to get wheels and tires for the new body so I should have some feedback in the next week or so.

Cheers,
Jim

Hello All,
I just got around to replacing the plastic pillow balls in the front of my TT02 with the low friction metal balls. I have to say I was pretty surprised by the amount of scoring on the plastic balls after 10-12 full packs (3ish hours of use). I have yet to drive it, and I am guessing I will not feel any difference, but the metal balls are a heck of a lot smoother then the plastic ones when you spin them by hand in the arms. You can also tighten them a but more before you start to feel resistance. Time will tell how the do in the long run but right off the bat I am thinking they are worth the $5 and 10 minutes to install.

Cheers,
Jim

You probably won't feel a difference but it is there and they're far more durable than the stock ones.

The better half is away so I got to put three packs through the TT02 this evening. After work I glued up the Ride 26MM Radial on none offset staggered wheels for the Rally body and gave them a go. The tires are significantly higher profile then the USGT spec tires I run on staggered offset wheels for the Porsche body. ibam not sure if the reduced track or traction accounts for it but the car now takes a very Porsche'esq stance in the turns lifting the inside front wheel at times. I also traction rolled it for the first time. I would say the ultimate traction is better on the street than the USGT tires but they are not as easy to drive. If you get power on oversteer the car tends swing, catch, and then swing hard in the opposite direction (Swedish flick), the USGT tires are much more progressive in that regard and easier to modulate the oversteer.

Tonight was super fun, I feel that I am learning to drive the car and am getting the set up a bit better. I am going to back off the gearing a bit, when I run it in front of the house I tend to keep if fairly close in, 50' straight, and the motor is pretty darn warm....way over the limit for my highly calibrated finger LOL.

Cheers,
Jim

Just installed some new parts on my Type S.....the updated suspension mounts and the rebound stoppers so now I can adjust droop.

I've also installed the torque tuned motor with 29t pinion. Combined with the 64t spur, the car is QUICK! TCS Watch out!!!!!

I dropped the gearing down to a FDR of 5.02 from the 4.33 I was running. The motor is running MUCH cooler then it was on the "short course" in front of the house.

I have also started on the Suzuki SX4 WRC body for a little rally action. The body is very nicely done and the stickers are pre cut which is a super nice touch. I am doing a bit of a quick and dirty job to represent a test car so it will not have the full livery on it....so far it is looking good.

Cheers,
Jim

I should share something that my buddy did. In an effort to stop the shock towers from coming loose, we drilled through the shock tower mounts on the diff covers, and through bolted the towers to the diff cover.

Our shock towers don't come loose anymore.

Shock towers coming loose....huh?

Literally never heard of that before

Me neither, in my years of running Tamiya plastic kits I do not believe I have ever had a self tapping screw loosen up.

So, I was running at the tennis courts last night, with all the pollen the little used back courts where I run were super dusty and slick. With that said it was tricky putting the power down on turn exits and I got one wrong and ended up collecting the car on a fence post :cry: and broke a rear arm, if the car was 6" further forward or aft it would have just hit the chain link fence. I ordered a new 51528 "B" parts but my question is when you order the 51528 do you get two trees or one? Looking at the Tamiya web site it looks like you get two.

Cheers,
Jim

I have a TT02b, with fiberglass shock towers. Maybe that's the thing? Regardless, this solves the loose shock tower problem :-0

Hi all, this is my first post and I am also new too TT02...just bought it 2 months ago. I found that this site has the most active TT02 thread which is nice!

Attached my TT02, I basically follow the great page below (ca't post link yet :() to enhance my TT02, really learn a lot from it :D
Tamiya TT02 guide, Mods, tuning and tips for club racing | The RC Racer

For the servo position, instead getting another servo stay I used 3 * 1mm shim to move it forward so it can form a straight line with the bridge so the left/right turn can be equal
I also replaced the suspension mount with carbon 54639/54640 recently, not test yet but it seems rigid and gives more options on mounting position/ground clearance and looks cool too!:p

It comes with two. Wish you said something before ordering....I've got tons of standard TT02 arms. I've bought several bags of the B parts because I run several different style bodies and need body posts of various lengths.

Nortran,
Oh man...I will keep that in mind if I need arms again. With that I was curious because I am finishing up the Suzuki SX4 WRC body and I was thinking it would just be easier to have a dedicated set of posts for each body....great minds thinking alike.

Thanks.

Cheers,
Jim

Anytime....just reimburse me for shipping and you can have em. I've got probably 4 sets.

Might keep one set....through upgrading, I've got enough parts that all I need to do is order a diff and a chassis tub and I've got a second TT02

We finally had our first DTM race on a parking lot. A one of the drivers is also a photographer and made very nice pictures of our TT02s! You can check them out here:

https://www.facebook.com/pg/blautalr...35215326596877

Tt02D
 

I want to build a Tt02d but I want to put an hpi 190mm trueno body on it. Will it fit and if so what settings do I need to build it with? Thanks

Yes

It depends on the body. I tried to look up stats for that body and it didn't list the wheel base. It's probably 257mm so build it with the longer wheel base and low ride height

Just ran two packs through the TT02 with the Suzuki SX4 body. Pretty amazed at the difference in feel over the Porsche body, feels like she changes direction much faster and tends to under steer more, I am chalking that up to less overhang both in the front and rear.

The ride 26MM Radials sure put off a lot of dust.

Cheers,
Jim

Hi Everyone, I am also new to TT02, just bought it 2 months ago. I tried to post my car in my reply previously but seems failed to do so.
I just changed mine to brushless system and excited to see how it goes

MR,
Have you changed the gearing? I was pretty unimpressed with the umphhh of a 17.5T motor till I geared it a bit steeper.

Have fun.

Cheers,
Jim

Yea, my motor is 10.5T :flaming: so using 64/25 and set it without turbo now as a start...the weather here is hot so would like to see the temp first.
I also replaced quite a lot of stuff for its power...piece by piece through out the month:p propeller shaft, universal drive, rear toe in, suspension...will try upload a photo later if possible

I would think with a 10.5T and that gearing it should go well.

The rear toe blocks make a HUGE difference, I used the YR ones as they were cheap but the difference in predictability was truly night and day.

Cheers,
Jim

Me too...got YR 2 degrees toe in, guess enough

Just tested my TT02 with 10.5T brushless, really powerful but need to study and adjust my suspension, probably need to change tires too. Got moderate oversteer when exiting corner...the power is very different from my silver can previously :p

Power on oversteer? I find that you have to be carful with the throttle on unprepared surfaces when exiting corners, BL motors can put out a lot on of torque which results in power on oversteer.

Cheers,
Jim.

What tires are you running.

I am using tamiya racing slick (#50454)...same set when I using the silver can

I am running on a local tarmac track, my suspension is TRF special damper, front blue spring, rear yellow already. Front diff ~100k and rear diff dry. The setting is fine when I use sliver can previously, I will try to play around the suspension position, may be slightly thicken the rear diff and adjust camber??...but the best is try different tires I guess:rolleyes:

Raced in USGT yesterday.. car was consistent, I wasn't lol..

Towards the last minute of the race, I noticed my front end was seriously diving in the turns. When race ended, I noticed the right tabs of gear box cover in front were broken.. when I pulled the car apart, the left tabs were also broken lol. I'm lucky the whole thing didn't detach and spit my diff out ;)

We now have a white and blue tub that is carbon infused but not the other parts. Shame because the gear box covers need it.

I think I have come up with a sway bar solution, will post pictures if it works

WoW, that's lucky!
So for all white and blue tamiya parts are carbon infused or hardened? If so then I will consider them when my parts break...

Look forward to see your swap bar solution as TT02 don't have this option by default...

Only the hardened chassis is stronger than kit. The other parts are just coloured.

The hardened gearbox parts were on the grey sprue included in the TT02D chassis (although not in TT02 kits with shells)

Yet another GREAT result for this car. The track was SUPER hot (temperatures hit 100 F), first qualifying went well....got second to my main rival after a really good battle with him all heat. Second qualifier didn't go so great, got bumped out on the first corner and landed on my lid and the corner marshalls just took their time and casually walked up to flip over the car, no urgency at all. Rather than driving pissed off and overly aggressive I just pulled off to fight another day.

A-Main - Started 3rd due to my 1st qual result. Brand new Sorex 36r's. Car was fast right out of the gate, great start passed the two cars ahead in the first corner. Built up a commanding lead, walking away with it. Minute and a half left I got tangled with a backmarker and somehow the shunt wriggled lose a body clip holding the battery in place. When the marshall flipped the car my battery came loose. I quickly grabbed a body clip from the rear of the car, held down the battery. I ended up finishing 3rd but recorded fastest lap, shaving off 3 seconds from my previous fast lap.

Really really happy with the car right now, looking forward to TCS in a month

Thanks! I will forget about it then.

This is great to hear that you guys have your TT02's going well on the track. I really may have to make it down to the local indoor carpet track after the craziness of summer is over and give it a go. The last time I drove on a track must be 20 years ago with a TA-03 and I was moderately competitive back then. With the TT02 I have been setting up a make shift track on a tennis court and just practicing hitting the apexes and having fun. By the time the fall rolls around I hope that I can get around the track without embarrassing myself.

Cheers,
Jim

Just a quick question, are you guys using 26mm wheels or 24mm wheels?
Any differences? 24mm seems more popular and more choices in the market.

Arg!!! I wish I read this before ordering replacements!

For future reference, part number for the grey reinforced pieces Qatmix mentioned is 9000614

26 for bashing. 24 for racing. 24 offer less rolling resistance