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Originally Posted by nitrostarter
(Post 14974404)
I'd like to think the Savox should hold up with no saver so I'll go that route.
Adding a the locked diff in the rear will push the car into more over steer or help kick the rear out into a drift? |
Originally Posted by nitrostarter
(Post 14974404)
I'd like to think the Savox should hold up with no saver so I'll go that route.
Adding a the locked diff in the rear will push the car into more over steer or help kick the rear out into a drift? I have my rear fairly open (Just using AW grease) and with a 17.5T motor it is very easy to induce throttle on oversteer. Cheers, Jim |
Sorry, got my terminology backwards. Experiencing more understeer where the car is pushing thru a turn. I have to release throttle, tap brakes, and power on the turn sharper.
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So...Monday during "Prime Day" I got a deal on a IR Thermometer and it just showed up. I took 10 minutes and ran the car with the 5.02:1 FDR. My finger is pretty darn accurate when I was guessing 130-140*F....After 10 minutes I was at 131*. After work I will swap out the pinion to get me to 4.33:1 and see where I am temp wise.....it looks like I am safe to eeekkk a couple more MPH out of her.
Cheers, Jim |
One of the cheapest and best tools in the box is the IR thermometer.
What gearing on the 17.5T are you at now and looking to go to? |
Originally Posted by nitrostarter
(Post 14974524)
Sorry, got my terminology backwards. Experiencing more understeer where the car is pushing thru a turn. I have to release throttle, tap brakes, and power on the turn sharper.
Cheers, Jim |
I'll have to take some quick video to show and get some pointers on.
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Originally Posted by nitrostarter
(Post 14974560)
One of the cheapest and best tools in the box is the IR thermometer.
What gearing on the 17.5T are you at now and looking to go to? Right now I have a 81T spur and 44T pinion for a FDR of 5.02 actually. I will put in a 51T pinion which will bring me down to 4.33. I also have a 77T spur which should fit with the 51T pinion which gets me to 3.92 but I am thinking that may be pushing it. Cheers, Jim |
I switched over to the 51T pinon last night and while I was collecting my stuff a nasty squall moved through so so running last night. I should be able to get a few packs through her tonight and it will be a good test because today is supposed to be the hottest day of the summer here.
Cheers, Jim |
If you're always on full throttle, probably time to move up to faster motor. Just like 1:1 cars, modulating the throttle works better; and going WOT, only when you need to accelerate. There is a whole new world between 0 and 100. It's difficult to feel it out at first, but it will allow you to drive like you're sitting inside the vehicle. :tire:
Originally Posted by LJH
(Post 14974583)
I have actually lived for 25 years flying high performance e-powered planes and gliders without a IR thermometer without blowing anything up because of heat but with that said on a plane you are not always WOT when flying, especially, pylon planes.....I need to give the old brain a break after a couple 130+ MPH circuits :eek:.
Right now I have a 81T spur and 44T pinion for a FDR of 5.02 actually. I will put in a 51T pinion which will bring me down to 4.33. I also have a 77T spur which should fit with the 51T pinion which gets me to 3.92 but I am thinking that may be pushing it. Cheers, Jim |
Originally Posted by moistAF
(Post 14975205)
If you're always on full throttle, probably time to move up to faster motor. Just like 1:1 cars, modulating the throttle works better; and going WOT, only when you need to accelerate. There is a whole new world between 0 and 100. It's difficult to feel it out at first, but it will allow you to drive like you're sitting inside the vehicle. :tire:
With that said I was just comparing flying one of my high performance planes to driving a RC car. When I am driving the car I am asking for max performance a higher percentage of the time then when flying one of my fast planes, especially as I get older. Flying a plane with a 28" wingspan at over 130MPH takes a lot of concentration so I tend to do a couple hot laps and then back off and do a number of laps at 80MPH to let the heart rate come down. There is also the monetary consequences of crashing a plane compared to crashing a car :cry: Cheers, Jim |
Raced last night and DNF in first heat and was done for the night!
Right rear axle stud caught the rail on a straight and ripped the entire suspension off the car lol. The Marshal was picking up bits and pieces and laughing. The original tub is very soft and I had already noticed that the screws that secure the rear suspensions plate were backing out. So I put a drop of ca in last race and tightened them. Well this time they held.. really well lol.. so instead they broke off from chassis. Now here is the frustrating part.. the reinfored blue and white tub are out of stock everywhere in the states. Found a blue one in UK that will cost a lot to ship. White I have found in HK. Either way, looks like my car will be out of commission for couple of weeks! |
The reinforced tubs, i've never seen in stock in the states. Also, it may not be better for this. When I crashed my TT02b, it ~tore~ the blue tub I bought. It's harder, but I don't think it will help in a situation like that.
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Originally Posted by Nerobro
(Post 14975357)
The reinforced tubs, i've never seen in stock in the states. Also, it may not be better for this. When I crashed my TT02b, it ~tore~ the blue tub I bought. It's harder, but I don't think it will help in a situation like that.
If you buy it off e-bay RCMart will ship it free. Here on the East Coast I get stuff from RCM in 8 or 9 days. Still a bummer though. Cheers, Jim |
I think I would still benefit from the stiffer chassis on carpet.
I contacted TamiyaUSA and they said they're are on order but 6 weeks out. Ouch. May have to just opt for the pimpin White tub lol. |
Originally Posted by Raman
(Post 14972699)
I run on Grey Carpet.
Ride height 5 Droop - 1,5 over ride height in front and 2,5 in rear Camber - 1,5º all around Front toe - 1,0º toe out Dampers TRF419 big bores Shocks Muchmore 400 wt Springs Muchmore X springs Red front (firm) Pink rear (medium) - I also tested the old HPI Pink in front and silver in rear.. was about the same. Diff - Front epoxied / locked, Rear 10k (using my diff mod in this post Motor fantom FR-1 21.5 ESC HW Just Stock Gearing 78/51 Tyres USGT Spec Body: Killerbody Lexus RC F |
Originally Posted by martiniracing
(Post 14975487)
cool. what do i need to do to get down to that gearing you use? also, any other upgrades besides the shocks and the springs? i also wanna see a pic of your RC F!!
For gearing.. I'm using the Yeah racing motor mount.. and had to trim the gear cover to fit the spur gear. Other upgrades - steering arms / bridge and the prop shaft... used all Tamiya parts for those. I also had spare DCJ for front and CVD for rear.. so I run those. |
Originally Posted by Raman
(Post 14975502)
My RC F.. you mean what's left of it , after battle scars ;) .. I'll see if I can load them from my phone.
For gearing.. I'm using the Yeah racing motor mount.. and had to trim the gear cover to fit the spur gear. Other upgrades - steering arms / bridge and the prop shaft... used all Tamiya parts for those. I also had spare DCJ for front and CVD for rear.. so I run those. Also what parts do I need to mount the spur with? Thanks! |
http://www.rctech.net/forum/members/...7-img-4544.jpg
http://www.rctech.net/forum/members/...8-img-4545.jpg http://www.rctech.net/forum/members/...9-img-4546.jpg DCJ are the double cardan axle joint. Similar to CVD but have two joints.. they're good for steering. For spur gear mount, i forgot to list it as it came with the car.. it's this one 54500 https://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/prod....asp?p_id=7379 |
Two night is a row of thunder showers and not getting to run the car.....I have the jones bad....
With that the better half had a meeting last night so after putting the wee man to bed I played with the TT02. I converted it back to the RSR and put the staggered wheels with the Gravity USGT tires back on it. I also received the Maclan fan I had ordered and installed that. I will be interested to see how hot the motor gets with the 4.33:1 gearing and the fan.....I wonder if I will be able to go a bit steeper with the gearing with the fan. The last combination I have yields a FDR of 3.92:1, that might be pushing it a bit. Cheers, Jim |
It's been a while since I cut out a new body. I always used body scissors and kinda hacked it up. On this, I decided to check the YouTube out for tips and it seemed like the scoring method works best. So I grabbed a utility blade/box cutter and went to town...
Getting the hang of it https://i.imgur.com/qHKnAc9.jpg This is definitely the cleaner method to cutting bodies and getting clean lines and cuts. All cut out. https://i.imgur.com/Wew2sq1.jpg https://i.imgur.com/vduRBPi.jpg The body lines and detail are great! Man this is a good looking body. And to top it off, I hadn't looked at the decal sheet. O my! These are great! https://i.imgur.com/W3Vr4O3.jpg Again, for $100 these Tamiya kits can't be beat. |
Back when I was building a lot of bodies I always used lexan scissors, they usually came out OK but when I cut out the Porsche body I used the scoring meathod.....way faster and cleaned. I have now done two bodies by scoring them and I think it is the only way to go now.
Tamiya still has the best bodies I have experienced, they just look good. Cheers, Jim |
Originally Posted by MajorRex
(Post 14974332)
Always good to see more people with TT02 :smile:
I am using Hi-Torque Servo Saver (51000) that come with the steering upgrade set...the kit saver is pretty lame, you can just throw it away like my friend. If you treasure your servo and would like to race then get a better one, otherwise you can still use the kit one for fun. |
I finally had a chance to run the car with the 4.33:1 FDR. After 12 minutes I am at 155*. I think that is as steep as I can go this time of the year.
Cheers, Jim |
Did you check temps on the ESC and lipo?
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Originally Posted by nitrostarter
(Post 14977974)
Did you check temps on the ESC and lipo?
Cheers, Jim |
Originally Posted by LJH
(Post 14975403)
With that said if you need a new tub why not get the stiffer one?
If you buy it off e-bay RCMart will ship it free. Here on the East Coast I get stuff from RCM in 8 or 9 days. Still a bummer though. Cheers, Jim When I tore my chassis, I believe that the "soft" chassis would have been just fine in the end. I can confirm the shipping times as well. |
Originally Posted by Mini35
(Post 14977216)
The Xray Super Stiff V2 servo saver is quality. Far better than the Tamiya 51000. Previously I'd put 51000s on all my cars as the only reference point I had was the kit savers which are variable to say the least. However I found after a few runs - probably an hour or so - they still developed some inconsistencies around the straight ahead position and the steering wouldn't quite centre which irritates the hellout of me. With the Xray my car has now got over 20 hours on it and it's still as good as day one.
Last week when I broke my front knuckle, I replaced the front upper arm at the same time with YR one so that I can adjust the camber. Their original turnbuckle is really soft...it bends after a light impact :( I now replaced it with Ti one, looks much better but will see... |
Would a 26t pinion fit with a stock 70t spur? 25t to 26t is an increase in diameter of 0.8mm so the pinion-spur distance is 0.4mm closer with the 26t. In my experience tamiya motor mounts provide a relatively loose mesh, certainly looser than I would set on my BD7.
I'm entering a stock spec class where only the pinion can be changed. |
Finally got the wing, headlight and taillight buckets cut out. The wing must be thicker lexan because it was much harder to score, but I got it. My awesome wife was in town yesterday and stopped at the LHS for some paint. I let her pick out the main color but said it needed to be my sons favorite color, so fluorescent green it is. I should be ready to paint this afternoon after giving the lexan a quick bath.
https://i.imgur.com/jcvCQzA.jpg https://i.imgur.com/g3C8UdM.jpg |
Originally Posted by 2hundy
(Post 14978733)
Would a 26t pinion fit with a stock 70t spur? 25t to 26t is an increase in diameter of 0.8mm so the pinion-spur distance is 0.4mm closer with the 26t. In my experience tamiya motor mounts provide a relatively loose mesh, certainly looser than I would set on my BD7.
I'm entering a stock spec class where only the pinion can be changed. 0.4mm gear mesh seems a lot to me as I usually left a paper thin gap between spur and pinion which should far less than 0.4mm |
Originally Posted by MajorRex
(Post 14978943)
You could try...and see if you can turn the wheel freely...the stock motor mount only up to 25t pinion for 70t spur.
0.4mm gear mesh seems a lot to me as I usually left a paper thin gap between spur and pinion which should far less than 0.4mm Has anyone tried a 26t pinion? |
Just picked up a tt02r last week from the local shop. They run some outdoor races in the parking lot that I want to attend. I've read about 86 pages of this got some good information going forward with the car. I plan on running 17.5 vta series ( they do vta a little different apparently) possibly drift the car a bit as well. I'm in the process of building the car now. Been taking pictures every page or so while building it. Body is a McAllister 1970 trans am. Waiting for decals on that. Still need tires for my vintage wheels. I've ordered a few bits and pieces from tamiya USA that should arrive this week. Going to at least get camber adjustable on the rear. Also doing the body posts on the front bumper as that's what I'm used to when I used to race indoor carpet many years ago with my tc3. So far I am very impressed with the kit. Very easy to build and definitely good quality. I'll have to post up some pictures of my build when I can 😉
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I've been working on a couple of TT-02 kits myself. I just finished the Motul Autech GT-R. I'm almost finished with the Mercedes-AMG GT3. Just have to finish the headlights, taillights and the wing.
They were both really fun builds! |
Just started racing this summer in the novice class. Chassis of choice is the TT-02 Type S, with the NSX body. I started out using NiMH and a brushed motor and have been finishing 3rd. The top two are running brushless systems.
Last race of the summer is coming up this weekend and I've upgraded to brushless myself. We'll see what the results are. Here's my equipment: Reedy Sonic 540-M3 25.5 ROAR Spec motor Hobbywing XeRun XR10 Justock ESC Gens ace 500 mAh 50c 2S1P battery Radio is the Futaba 3PRKA (hope to upgrade to the 4PX or 7PX this fall) Upgrades/Hop-Ups: TRF Special Damper with the hard black coating Aluminum propeller joint and shafts TT-01 Aluminum Bumper Stopper FRP Battery Plate & Transponder Stay Set Aluminum Motor Plate Aluminum Motor Mount (upgrading to the Yeah Racing adjustable motor mount) Left and right aluminum servo stays XV-01 Universal Shaft Assembly Aluminum Racing Steering Set and Steering Bridge Front and Rear Carbon Damper Stays Steel Suspension Mount Set Front and Rear Steel Rebound Stoppers Carbon Reinforced Hub Carriers (have held up pretty well so far) TB Evo IV Suspension Arms Carbon Reinforced Rear Uprights TRF416 Front Uprights Going to run a 64p 49T pinion with a 64p 82 spur. I have really enjoyed tinkering with this chassis and it's been a lot of fun to drive. I personally feel this has been great for a beginning and with the hop-ups that are available it has allowed me to gradually improve my driving by slowing adding the hop-ups. |
Got everything masked off this morning before work to be ready for paint when I got home. Forgot to snap a pic then.
Started playing some paint this afternoon. Fluorescent green that I'll back up with white. Also have some smoke paint for the windows. https://i.imgur.com/j5ImTtW.jpg Tail lights https://i.imgur.com/1XIjGd4.jpg |
I like bright green bodies 😉 Used to have an eclipse body I ran on carpet that was that color. I used tamiya smoke on my one crawler body and wasn't entirely impressed. Almost thought about getting real window tint and doing it that way. But haven't gotten that far yet in my endeavors.
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3 Attachment(s)
Got my body posts in and bumper plate. Now the body should be better secured. Also got everything wired up. Then started working on the trans am body. I got as far as getting the stripes painted. Hoping to finish it off this weekend. Still need proper vta tires.
Attachment 1436055 Attachment 1436054 Attachment 1436056 |
Laid some paint...
http://i.imgur.com/s7MMZlu.jpg?1 http://i.imgur.com/EM93LWu.jpg?1 3 layers of green, 1 white, 1 black. Came back and sprayed Tamiya Smoke color on the windows. Also started the tedious process of cutting out decals to apply. There are many decals with yellow accents that would look great with the recommended Tamiya grey color but not so much with fluorescent green so I'll leave those off for now. Quite a few more decals to cut and apply. Still need to install the headlights, taillights, and side mirrors as well. http://i.imgur.com/6R7ZhJl.jpg?1 http://i.imgur.com/rEy1Oha.jpg?1 http://i.imgur.com/PqS7tWW.jpg?1 |
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