![]() |
Originally Posted by Teamrule
(Post 15379746)
Thanks, the build has begun. I am starting with 1 million fluid in front RR diff and 5,000 wt. in rear. It worked well on Euro truck as a starting point. Other than that it will be the 64T spur and a stock TT02 RR to get rolling. I have some C tires as well for the black carpet.
|
Wow I haven’t seen a hobby shop like that since the 1980s. With that amount of inventory it’s no surprise prices are high. They need it. Nice to see it exists! |
Originally Posted by Nicadrauspro4
(Post 15379666)
But your TT02 KR looks so much batter in my opinion. I also curious on how the TT02 s and KR compare in performance.
How about building another KR mixed with all the option parts included. I'm really digging the all blue parts though. :) A direct comparison would be interesting. And maybe hurting. My fastest ever lap with the KR at my hometrack was a 10.8s. So right now I am around 0.5s slower with the TT02S. The KR was driven with Sorex 28 and a low Exotek body, the S got a stronger motor... Maybe some time I will do a comparison... |
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...be0c7ad002.jpg
Originally Posted by Raman
(Post 15379794)
for Carpet, get the diff locker for the front. I epoxied mine long ago before that part existed. |
I’m not sure as I haven’t seen new diff. The old diff can be had very cheaply.. $4.99 for both sets https://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/prod....asp?p_id=7381 |
Originally Posted by Raman
(Post 15380026)
I’m not sure as I haven’t seen new diff. The old diff can be had very cheaply.. $4.99 for both sets https://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/prod....asp?p_id=7381 What spring you think I should put on these CVA's, I started with 50wt oil all around, 3 hole piston front, 1 hole rear but the silver springs feel pretty soft to me. |
The CVA 4-pack TT02-specific kit with the black yellow-marked springs, built as per the instructions are a good starting including the supplied oil.
|
I have the CVA's they come with the RR, looking for stiffer springs than kit silver. Do you have part #? 54797, 53333, 84324?
|
If they're the same as what's supplied in the 54753 CVA kit, then yes.
|
Originally Posted by Teamrule
(Post 15380032)
Looking at manual for a regular R with dogbones the outdrives are MB16 #19804237, the RR they RR MA20 # 19803157. S different again, but the R and S have a flat spot on outdrives that engages the differential. The RR you do not, its just round with a pin that engages the bevel gear of diff. Will need to verify more before buying diff spool.
What spring you think I should put on these CVA's, I started with 50wt oil all around, 3 hole piston front, 1 hole rear but the silver springs feel pretty soft to me. |
Indoor black carpet. I had the oil, I can adjust as necessary.
|
45wt oil. Shocks.. I don’t use Tamiya springs these days.. try medium in front and soft in rear. Set camber to 1.5 all around. Droop is very important. You want front to droop around 1 mm over your ride height and rear about 2 mm. the RR doesn’t have droop settings so you will need to put o rings in shocks. |
Got it, thanks. Technically speaking o rings in shocks would violate novice class rules, no shimming allowed, but I get what you are saying. Setting these things on a TT should be interesting, there really is not any part that does not have a degree or mm or more of slop in it be it camber, toe, droop etc.
|
There are many brands that fit.. but for TCS.. you’re stuck with Tamiya springs as well and for spec novice I think you have to use the silver springs? |
The harder two variants of springs included in Tamiya spring set 54797 are very close to Xray 2.5 and 2.6 springs. That should cover most tracks.
|
Thanks, 2019 Novice allows any Tamiya Hop Up., but no shimming. Interestingly since you can use any hop up, I believe the torque tuned motor spins a a couple thousand RPM faster than the new Reedy Fixed timing 21.5T, the novice cars could be faster and built to the exact same spec as GT pro spec class.
They might as well make GT Pro spec the torque tuned motor now and save everyone the hassle of having to buy an expensive reedy motor and esc. Then a novice could truly move to that class easily. |
I got something for every TT02S driver who is a little upset, that there only is a 3 degree toe in block for the rear suspension. You can easily and plug‘n‘play upgrade your rear suspension to an active rear suspension. Just use the standard parts for the front suspension in the rear. The steering link can be attached to a thread from the motor-gear-cover (see pictures) with a 3x23mm turnbuckle. Because of the limited space use Tamiya 53907 ball head here. Additionally if you want to avoid the 4 degree caster angle of the c-hub you can use Tamiya 51106 2 degree c-hub. Now the rear is active, but because of the geometry of inner camber link and the „steering“ turnbuckle there is nearly no toe change when the arm moves up and down. You can now decide which toe angle you want to drive. The car in the picture has the active rear suspension shown on the left and the normal suspension on the right. https://abload.de/img/04fb6af4-1f0b-4713-8rxkkr.jpeg https://abload.de/img/6abc45bb-e803-4ab0-9aijvj.jpeg |
wtcc, NICELY done !!!
|
I have 2 sets of premounted tire Type C #47351 which are 24mm, is there a 26mm TYpe-C premount, I can't seem to find. Will 24mm Fr and Rr be a nice set up?
|
Originally Posted by Teamrule
(Post 15381354)
I have 2 sets of premounted tire Type C #47351 which are 24mm, is there a 26mm TYpe-C premount, I can't seem to find. Will 24mm Fr and Rr be a nice set up?
|
Originally Posted by Talon4U2NV
(Post 15382425)
Ran into this myself, and I am not having luck finding 26mm Type C tires
why would you you want the 26mm wheels. Spec novice allows any tamiya tire/wheel now |
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...829b795316.jpg
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...61b10ca8c4.jpg I am not even sure I did. I just figured wider was better. Used to my VTA car I ran with the wide rear. 24mm it will be then, thanks, I just finished the build. Need to get out there, are enough spec novice guys running on Sundays for a class? |
hey guys, new to the tt-02 platforms.
getting ready to build my tt-02s and tt-02r for me and my son. going to be running on black ozite and no additives. is it safe to say, Tamiya 24 Type C - is going to be the best tire? |
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...1d459a644.jpeg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...293f6efa1.jpeg New TT02 kit.. 58667 Audi Quattro Rally.. very nice looking |
And: 54875 TT02 oil filled diff :) |
Originally Posted by wtcc
(Post 15385821)
And: 54875 TT02 oil filled diff :) |
Originally Posted by vic0280
(Post 15385589)
hey guys, new to the tt-02 platforms.
getting ready to build my tt-02s and tt-02r for me and my son. going to be running on black ozite and no additives. is it safe to say, Tamiya 24 Type C - is going to be the best tire? |
Originally Posted by vic0280
(Post 15385589)
hey guys, new to the tt-02 platforms.
getting ready to build my tt-02s and tt-02r for me and my son. going to be running on black ozite and no additives. is it safe to say, Tamiya 24 Type C - is going to be the best tire? |
yes I think they agreed on the vaterra ones :( I just wanted a different set to try out.
|
Originally Posted by Raman
(Post 15385855)
nice! Where did you find that part number ?
https://abload.de/img/96e86feb-e4f3-4e6d-9nfj5e.jpeg |
is tt02 possible to reach fdr 4.0? |
Originally Posted by tommy1030
(Post 15397065)
is tt02 possible to reach fdr 4.0? |
3.9
I have done FDR of 3.9 with yeah racing Motor Mount, 75 teeth spur and 50 teeth pinion, 64 dp of course. Works fine with a 21.5 turn Hobbywing for my 5 year old son 😁
Michael |
hey guys,
trying to return to racing after a multi year hiatus, with these gt3 spec classes. built a tt-02s for me and a tt-o2r for my son. couple of noob questions. 1. what o-rings do you guys run in the TRF shocks, I put the 419 shocks on the tto2s, and the 42102's on the R. What I thought building a smooth shock and getting the air out, only to realize the leak like crazy and I have to rebuild. my bad! do I stick with the TRF blue- o ring, or any other better? 2. with these trf shocks and the ball stud mounted, you get them on, but now, what's the easiest way to get on and off the car without tearing up the shock? does anyone use a shock collar and screw? 3. Tamiya parts seem like a pain in the butt to order or find in stock at a reasonable time frame. not wanting to wait 2-3weeks for tires, or body or steering knuckle and flange. as much as I support local with all my hobby needs, is there a US online retailer that stocks or supports these parts? I only know of amain and tower, I try to avoid to support local. what started as a cheap car and class, has me consumed with Tamiya blue and almost the cost of a normal touring car. that's my own addiction issues. |
So in a week or two, i'm participating in a race where we build, and run, TT02's for an endurance race.
What should I pay special attention to while building the car? It's a box stock race.... So I suspect I only get to play with lubes and such. I usually swap screws for M3 versus ST screws... I think i'll be limited to the nasty self tappers. Chap stick? Shock oil? How do you suggest lubing those screws. |
Build it box stock. The standard screws are working perfectly as long as you use the first thread you cut, again and again. Use ball bearings and put the box grease in the rear diff. Make sure you go for the lowest ride height. Everything else is just driver talent. So practise for the race. If you want to make sure you have a good motor, you need to prepare it. If the race is very long consider to prepare several motors as they lose power after some time. |
Sadly, multiple motors isn't going to be an option. but a low voltage bath type break-in is probally in the cards.
I appreciate the advice! |
Originally Posted by vic0280
(Post 15407923)
hey guys,
trying to return to racing after a multi year hiatus, with these gt3 spec classes. built a tt-02s for me and a tt-o2r for my son. couple of noob questions. 1. what o-rings do you guys run in the TRF shocks, I put the 419 shocks on the tto2s, and the 42102's on the R. What I thought building a smooth shock and getting the air out, only to realize the leak like crazy and I have to rebuild. my bad! do I stick with the TRF blue- o ring, or any other better? 2. with these trf shocks and the ball stud mounted, you get them on, but now, what's the easiest way to get on and off the car without tearing up the shock? does anyone use a shock collar and screw? 3. Tamiya parts seem like a pain in the butt to order or find in stock at a reasonable time frame. not wanting to wait 2-3weeks for tires, or body or steering knuckle and flange. as much as I support local with all my hobby needs, is there a US online retailer that stocks or supports these parts? I only know of amain and tower, I try to avoid to support local. what started as a cheap car and class, has me consumed with Tamiya blue and almost the cost of a normal touring car. that's my own addiction issues. |
Originally Posted by vic0280
(Post 15408628)
ANYONE?
I think in reading the rules that TRF shocks are legal for the Spec Novice Class, but I don't think they are legal for the Pro Spec class if you are running in that. I assume your son is running in the Spec Novice Class. I would look at two articles for some tips about setup and I think there is a discussion on shocks and "o" rings. Based on my experience with young drivers and myself, I would buy some extra steering uprights. They break easily and local tracks run out quickly. Toby's RC adventure : Start With Spec Novice Class Part 1 - Chassis Toby's RC adventure : Start With Spec Novice Class Part 2 - In-depth Build Tips and Setup |
Originally Posted by vic0280
(Post 15408628)
ANYONE?
|
| All times are GMT -7. It is currently 01:24 PM. |
Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.3.9 Patch Level 3
Copyright © 2026 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.