Torque Tuned Motor
 

Which of the kits come with the Torque Tuned Motor ?
The motor specs are not helpfull, some sites say Torque Tuned , other sites say
plain ol 540 motor.

The local TT02 race class uses the Torque Tuned Motor as spec motor, so I really need to but the kit with that included, not a kit with the old standard silvercan

All 2015 Super GT kits got one: Autech Nismo Nissan GT-R, Petronas Lexus LCF and Raybrig Honda NSX.
Also the Raikiri GT

My son runs a TT02 in our novice class, I started w/ the silver can, then the sport tuned, then a 21.5t and now a 17.5t. The car is definitely fastest w/ the 17.5t motor in it. I've gradually increased the speed as my sons skill has increased. This is all over a year and a half time period. ...keep in mind though that even if you put a 17.5 in the car you can gear down and turn your throttle down on the controller to slow it down (I actually turned ours down a bit as the 17.5 was a tad too fast for him).

The TT02 has been a great car, ...its pretty solid can take a beating and parts are easy to find and not expensive.

Just built my TT02 a few weeks ago. I got the chassis from the 99' Impreza kit which I originally bought for its rereleased body only, left the car unbuilt until I started running with a group of guys that does weekend parking lot racing.

I have to say I'm quite impressed with the kit even in box stock form, drives nice and the drivetrain is definitely much quieter than the TB01 I used to own.

https://preview.ibb.co/evcrSn/unnamed.jpg

I have since upgraded the driveline parts, as well as the steering. Threw in a set of YR dampers I had laying around.

https://preview.ibb.co/f3HEf7/unnamed_1.jpg

The YR steering set is nice for its price compared to the Tamiya. I added two extra 3x6 bearings on top of the bridge that took all the slop out, however the screws need to be held by thread lock to avoid binding the bearings.

Now with the YR motor mount I'll be switching from 21.5 to a 17.5 :sneaky:

I finaly got some run time last week. The vampire racing 17.5t is great! I geared at around 96/42 and ran at 1/4 timing on the motor and the car is exactly comparable to how it ran with the sport tuned running 68/22 when benchmarked against a few friends. For info 2 are running a hpi firebolt 15t which is actuqly comparable to the sport tuned the way we are running.

Question on my set up. I am.running super mini cva. Blue rear. Yellow front. I find thatvthe car is great but tlwhen it does let go the front hooks badly and i go tound in circles. Im running 2mm spacers in the cva's frontand rear to reduce droop but i still find adding a lot of preload to the rear to give me zero droop at the back gives me a very stable and planted rear end. I can take huge liberties going into conrners and its fine.
Any thoughts on that. Should i just add more spacers to the rear to reduce rear droop further?

Thanks

To add: first impressions are also that i got increased runtimes over the sport tuned.

You are the second guy on this thread who is running the stiffer spring in the rear. I have always been of the thought that the stiffer springs should be in the front and softer in the rear (all full size cars do this). I am running Super Mini CVA's as well with 40wt oil and the blues up front and yellows in the rear on a unprepared tennis court with good results.

I would guess if you took out a lot of the droop in the rear it is "forcing" the front to compress and work harder? Not sure.

Cheers,
Jim

Also, if you’re felling a tad retro, the kit 58571 Porsche 911 Carrera RSR TT-02 I ordered came with the torque tuned motor. There is a yellow sticker on the lower right corner of the box indicating the Torque Tuned Motor and speed controller inside.

Porsche bodies traditionally are not great track / racing bodies.. but I still love them..

At our track, we relaxed the rules for VTA and I’ve been running the 911 RSR body.. it actually handles really well... albeit it’s not on the TT02 chassis.... but it can be made to work..

The VTA tyres are a good option for it.. they have the right tyre height and width!

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...797ae6b42.jpeg

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...b10c6b6af.jpeg

That's great!

What chassis are you using and how did you adapt it to the short wheelbase of the 911?

Thanks,
Ale

I’m running the TB EVo 6. You can adjust the wheelbase by about 2 mm a piece using the front a rear suspension spacers to get to 253 wheel base.. and are left with rear wheels just slightly off centre.

Looks good! Yes, your 1973 Porsche Carrera RSR body is sweet. Relaxed VTA rules so you can slip in the RSR body? Clever.

The rear +offset rims are nice and look the part (are these the Protoform 2765-04s?). For a scale period concourse entry only, you could combine these with the front kit supplied Fuchs (understood they wouldn't work for racing as per the VTA rules).

Yes those are the protoform rear 31mm and they fill out the wheel arch nicely.

The suspension is standard width, only change was the spacers to move the arms forward in the rear 2 mm and front arms back 2 mm. That’s about as close you can get to 251.

On the front I’m running a 6mm hex because the protoform fronts were touching the steering arms. The back has a 5 mm hex.. I could go 6 to fill out the arches but then would risk rubbing the arches.. and narrower rear works better at track.

Ride height
 

Hi. On the tt02 type S are you guys running the box stock inner lower shock mount on the rear or the outer to match the front?


Im confused. everything i read about setup when applied leaves me with quite a bit of rake on my car.
Going to the outer of the 2 lower rear shock mount holes sits the car flat. Thanks

Thats with super mini cvas with equal spacers frontto rear. Blues on the front yellows on rear.

I believe you mean on the suspension arms?

As per manual.. you have 2 holes on the lower rear arm. You use the outer hole.

I’m not sure I know what you mean by rake. If you mean the arms are sagging relative to chassi and Toor chassis is almost dragging on the ground.. you adjust ride height by placing the plastic clips on top of shock spring

Hi, no rake is the angle of the car relative to the ground, so I am raked to the front, ie the front is lower than the rear.
and yes im talking about the mounting holes on the arms, so the type s reversible arms have 2 holes on one side and 3 on the other,

The manual has you build with the outer hole (using the 2 hole side) on the front and inner hole on the rear.

when I have mine set like that with equal length shocks then the car is higher at the rear.

All the info I have read says to use 2-3mm internal spacers in the super mini CVAs which I have done but then i end up with either a high rear OR too much droop at the rear.

So, by moving to the outer hole at the rear that seems to solve the issue, I just wanted to check if thats what everyone is doing or im missing something fundamental haha :-)


Thanks for sticking with me lol

I have a (1/10 1999 Subaru Impreza Monte-Carlo 4WD Rally TT-02 Kit (TAM58631) Don't know what the problem is, I have taken it apart and put it back together and it still makes this annoying noise. Check link for video. https://youtu.be/-wzrJChtS74

I would first check the gear mesh between the motor pinion and the spur gear.Looks like they are to close together.
And when listining to tho the video,the sound is coming from the back of the car

check if the motormount is using the correct holes,look in manual
.
And buy ball bearings,those sleeve bearings will slow the car down and also will cause way more wear on the drive train ect

Also get rid of all the grease,that will only be a magnet for dust and dirt

I fully agree with everything Freaky said. For the gear mesh use a strip of printer paper between the spur and pinion and make it as tight as possible. When you pull out the paper you should have a pretty decent mesh.

Bearing will actually be cheaper in the long run. Spend the $15-20 on a half way decent set of bearings. They will pay for themselves in the long run.

I found that I had to shim my diffs a wee bit to make them a bit tighter and quieter. I think I used either .1 or .2MM shims in them .

And lastly please get rid of the grease, it just collects gunk.

That should get you going.

Cheers,
Jim

Hi everyone !
Got brand new TT02D, planning to set it up as a drift car, very first one for me, so anyone can suggest just have upgrades and setup?
Got in the Rcmart cart some basics hops already as YR motor mount, alloy steering kit, main shaft+joints, solid axle...would add some parts for camber setup, anything else needed?

Thank you!

Hey guys, looking for some advice here.

I've had a few runs on my TT02 and I noticed that it has unequal on power steering. It tends to push to the left much more than it does to the right, it is especially noticeable when coming around a right hand sweeper. It can make nice tight left hand turns but pushes on the other direction.

I've checked the car on a setup station and everything seems to be more or less equal on both sides (considering the slop it has) including steering throw. Also the car seems to have equal left and right steering when doing low speed circles on the ground.

I also checked for tweak and the car seems pretty straight. It also tracks straight on the straigtaway.

When I punch the throttle with the car in my hand, it pulls down towards the right rear wheels. Could this be torque steer thats fighting the rotation of the car when it's steering to the right on power? (Car tries to lean to left but the motor torque is doing the opposite)

Haven't owned a shaft driven car in a long time, anything I can do with setup to alleviate this or do I have to adapt my driving to it?

Right now I have to go off throttle early before the turn to allow it to rotate.

My setup:
Base TT02
17.5T Motor
#10K Diffs F/R
Front Negative toe-in ~1degree
#500 Oil Dampers F/R with Tamiya Yellow Springs
6mm Rideheight
All else unadjustable.

Thanks!

I was told of a gearing mod that they have for the tt02. The 54500 High speed gear set. Does anyone know if that will fit on a tt01e as well?

A quick Google search says it will.

Cheers,
Jim

Thank you, everything I've looked at said tt02 only and was told it wouldn't work but the guy wasn't 100% sure. just double checking

The TT-02 high speed gear set will fit with the use of some alternative shims/spacers - HOWEVER the TT-02 gearing is very different, and the "fast spur" for a TT-02 is larger than the largest TT-01 spur so you will actually go a lot slower unless you source some special 0.6mod spur gears or try to get everything to line up with 48 or 64 pitch gears instead (not easy considering the TT-01 has fixed positions for the motor).

The 55 Spur with a 28 pinion in the TT-01 gives a ratio of around 5:1.

My plan is actually to switch over to the 48 or even 64p gears and use an aftermarket motor plate anyway so that wont be to bad if it only requires a few shims. Thanks

I just have a quick question hoping someone here might have an answer :). I'm ordering the yeah racing titanium screw set to replace the stock screws in my TT02. I think these screws are all metric sizes but I have no idea about what hex driver size I will need for the installation. I checked the yeah racing website but it doesn't say anything about that. So my question is what size do I need? I have hex screw drivers in SAE sizes but not metric at the moment :( Thanks in advance.

Sway bars
 

Has anyone come up with a way to put sway bars on a type-s. I was thinking about ordering the ta05 sway bar kit and coming up with something.
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I haven't seen anything like that with my TT02, but I'm running a brushed 540 motor on mine with everything fairly stock except for the fluid dampers and universals. It could just be the effects of torque steer. You may want to shim out any wheel slope you may have. I found my TT02 had a fair amountin the axles on a couple wheels for some reason. I could see that causing some extra torque steer from my experience on other cars with higher power motors and wheel slope. I'm very new to this all, but I think it's something to check. :)

I haven't even seen a pic posted with sway bars. I'm just gonna order some stuff see what I come up with. Only thing I can't get my head around is how to mount the bars on the chassis.

Looking at the TT02 rear (usingTT02S or similar TA05 arms with swaybar tabs), I'd make a carbon or similar plate to mount to the top of the rear bumper mounting points. Make sure to fabricate enough of the plate to go towards the rear differential as close as you can. You could fasten the swaybar underneath (so it's lower) like the old TA03R-S by making a groove in the plate for the swaybar to ride in and using small bolts, 2mm nut and wide washers. Not sure on the front yet.https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...2fb0eaa3a9.jpghttps://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...75e83724c7.jpg
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...e3828d82ef.jpg

Here's my old school TA03R-S to illustrate how the swaybars mount.
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...17a78d9b25.jpg

TT02 sway bar mount
 

Thanks all for your input. I will come up with something. After looking at it a little it really needs to mount to the bulkhead somehow. I think I could make something up with socket screws and some keystock. A better option would be to recast a bulkhead with the bar holders, similar to a DB01.