wtcc's TT-02 KR
#1
How should I start...
Right in time for the upcoming indoor season, my joy for RC is returning strong. The fever got real strong when AE announced the TC7.2. I also checked what kind of racing series will be held here in south Germany. And so one evening I discovered the RCK-Kleinserie. RC-Kleinkram is one of the biggest RC shops in Germany and this year it starts a new series with four classes. Two of these are GT with the proven TT-02 as required chassis. The GT2-class consist of full box stock Porsche cars while the GT-Sport is the open TT-02 class for the TT-02 R and S variants, including all tuning parts.
The rules for GT-Sport are made for me
No minimum weight, 17.5t Ruddog motor, 5.0 gearing, blinky esc, free rubber tire choice, body must be scale GT like PF Ford GT or Tamiya GT bodies with at least real looking color scheme.
At least two races will be held in my region, not far away...
That was the point when my brain started planning the total-TT-02-RC-war-wtcc-style.
So I looked in my hobby room what I have left over from my RC career and found a lot spares from my AE TCs, my Xray T4 and spares from the FF03. I took over one half the kitchen island table (my wife
) and started checking what is possible. And if you like the TT-02 chassis or not, it is capable to become everything you want with compareable little effort. The more I work and drive with this car, the more I love it.
And this is how the story starts. There will be more posts coming today, as the project is already in an advanced stage
Right in time for the upcoming indoor season, my joy for RC is returning strong. The fever got real strong when AE announced the TC7.2. I also checked what kind of racing series will be held here in south Germany. And so one evening I discovered the RCK-Kleinserie. RC-Kleinkram is one of the biggest RC shops in Germany and this year it starts a new series with four classes. Two of these are GT with the proven TT-02 as required chassis. The GT2-class consist of full box stock Porsche cars while the GT-Sport is the open TT-02 class for the TT-02 R and S variants, including all tuning parts.
The rules for GT-Sport are made for me
No minimum weight, 17.5t Ruddog motor, 5.0 gearing, blinky esc, free rubber tire choice, body must be scale GT like PF Ford GT or Tamiya GT bodies with at least real looking color scheme.At least two races will be held in my region, not far away...
That was the point when my brain started planning the total-TT-02-RC-war-wtcc-style.

So I looked in my hobby room what I have left over from my RC career and found a lot spares from my AE TCs, my Xray T4 and spares from the FF03. I took over one half the kitchen island table (my wife
) and started checking what is possible. And if you like the TT-02 chassis or not, it is capable to become everything you want with compareable little effort. The more I work and drive with this car, the more I love it.And this is how the story starts. There will be more posts coming today, as the project is already in an advanced stage
#2
#4
I just promise to fullfill my own visions 
This was my starting point:

Normal TT-02 with ball bearings, aluminium shaft and oil filled shocks. Of course I leave off not needed parts like the rear bumper or the fan-motor-cover. This 2 year old chassis already won a race in the Tamiya Euro Cup and was a DTM- and a Super GT-car before.

This was my starting point:

Normal TT-02 with ball bearings, aluminium shaft and oil filled shocks. Of course I leave off not needed parts like the rear bumper or the fan-motor-cover. This 2 year old chassis already won a race in the Tamiya Euro Cup and was a DTM- and a Super GT-car before.
#6
Oh, good you mention it 
The chassis was a rallye car once, too.
This white part belongs to a lexan rain cover. I ran it in my Subaru WRX configuration to keep out dust and water. That is another German engineering, but not by me

The chassis was a rallye car once, too.
This white part belongs to a lexan rain cover. I ran it in my Subaru WRX configuration to keep out dust and water. That is another German engineering, but not by me
#8
My next step was to think how to implement a full adjustable suspension. Additionally I wanted to get rid of all the plastic covers. I know they are perfect to keep dust and dirt away from all the gears, but I find them quite ugly. All these parts flew off the car.
Of course this caused more problems at first. The covers also hold the driveshaft and all bearings in place. I remembered a old conversion I did with the TC6 to make it fit Pro10 bodies. I replaced the upper bearing cap with a shimmed cfk plate. This time the small plate should be multifunctional with including the camber link and the shocktower mount. So I would need 4 small plates for the shocktower, camber link and to hold the diffbearings in place and two more plates for the driveshaft bearings.



Here you see the car with TC6.2 shocktower. They were hold by old AE servomounts, which I shortened for the "lightest TC car" project, once. The hole distance was so small, that it was really tight to fit without rubbing the differential. In between I installed the TRF416 suspension from my FF03. It nearly fits, just the arm pins needed to be shortenend by 1mm. This made me very happy.
Up to now I wanted to use mostly parts from my old cars to keep the costs low. Because tuning a TT-02 seems so ridiculous...
I am still not sure if I am a little crazy/stupid doing this. I had to think about how judgemental I thought about people who bought tuning parts for several hundred dollar for this chassis instead of buying a pro rc car...
Well up to now everything went together quite nice. My conversion reached the level of a TT-02S and I haven't spent a dollar, yet. Still missing though were antirollbars and a way to adjust droop. The both problems were solved with more small cfk-plates.

The design and production takes its time. Until this stage I had thought, drawed and dremeled for 4 days. And everything worked
Then my attitude changed: Why going through all this "hassle" and then only having the second best components with this handmade look... Thank you very much, brain!
Of course this caused more problems at first. The covers also hold the driveshaft and all bearings in place. I remembered a old conversion I did with the TC6 to make it fit Pro10 bodies. I replaced the upper bearing cap with a shimmed cfk plate. This time the small plate should be multifunctional with including the camber link and the shocktower mount. So I would need 4 small plates for the shocktower, camber link and to hold the diffbearings in place and two more plates for the driveshaft bearings.



Here you see the car with TC6.2 shocktower. They were hold by old AE servomounts, which I shortened for the "lightest TC car" project, once. The hole distance was so small, that it was really tight to fit without rubbing the differential. In between I installed the TRF416 suspension from my FF03. It nearly fits, just the arm pins needed to be shortenend by 1mm. This made me very happy.
Up to now I wanted to use mostly parts from my old cars to keep the costs low. Because tuning a TT-02 seems so ridiculous...
I am still not sure if I am a little crazy/stupid doing this. I had to think about how judgemental I thought about people who bought tuning parts for several hundred dollar for this chassis instead of buying a pro rc car...Well up to now everything went together quite nice. My conversion reached the level of a TT-02S and I haven't spent a dollar, yet. Still missing though were antirollbars and a way to adjust droop. The both problems were solved with more small cfk-plates.

The design and production takes its time. Until this stage I had thought, drawed and dremeled for 4 days. And everything worked
Then my attitude changed: Why going through all this "hassle" and then only having the second best components with this handmade look... Thank you very much, brain!
#10
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 2,315
From: Chicagoland
Uh. Ok.
A FF03 for USGT - Bending the rules, cheaply.
So, on the subject of your car. Hard chassis pans are cheap. Like $20, cheap. And white looks ~gooood~.
A FF03 for USGT - Bending the rules, cheaply.
So, on the subject of your car. Hard chassis pans are cheap. Like $20, cheap. And white looks ~gooood~.
#12
In between some "normal" tuning parts arrived:

The Yeah Racing motor mount and the Tamiya high speed gear set are very useful for the right gearing. Also the Ruddog 17.5t motor arrived. The combination of these components with a 80 theeth 64dp spur gear and a 41 theeth pinion works like charm. I accidently discovered that the motor cooling cut out at the front end perfectly avoids the tub plastic for the rear drive shaft bearing. This way it would be possible to use a 40 theeth, maybe even a 39 theeth pinion on a 80 theeth spur. Awesome!
With the motor so far inside I will try to use a 6000mAh shorty lipo and should reach the optimal r/l balance.

The Yeah Racing motor mount and the Tamiya high speed gear set are very useful for the right gearing. Also the Ruddog 17.5t motor arrived. The combination of these components with a 80 theeth 64dp spur gear and a 41 theeth pinion works like charm. I accidently discovered that the motor cooling cut out at the front end perfectly avoids the tub plastic for the rear drive shaft bearing. This way it would be possible to use a 40 theeth, maybe even a 39 theeth pinion on a 80 theeth spur. Awesome!

With the motor so far inside I will try to use a 6000mAh shorty lipo and should reach the optimal r/l balance.
#13
Some posts above I mentioned, that I wasn't fully satisfied with the look and the precision of my conversion so far.
So I sat down and did some more measuring and build parts in CAD. There I optimized some distances and went for a practical look. The principle with the cfk plates stayed the same. The changes mostly occured with the shocktower mounts (now with hole for the camber links) and the anti-roll-bar-mounts. These now look like the normal mounts, but also replace the outer cfk plate shims:

Blue are all plastic parts, cfk and arb-wires are grey
Of course I don't produce the plastic parts myself. After very good experiences with the KR-MF bulkheads, it was clear that I can trust sintered Nylon parts. I prepared the data for Shapeways:

And ordered the parts:


At the same time I ordered the cfk-plates as well. I hope they will arrive on saturday.
If you want to take a closer look at the parts --> I opened a Shapeways shop for fun:
https://www.shapeways.com/shops/kr-m...utosport-teile
So I sat down and did some more measuring and build parts in CAD. There I optimized some distances and went for a practical look. The principle with the cfk plates stayed the same. The changes mostly occured with the shocktower mounts (now with hole for the camber links) and the anti-roll-bar-mounts. These now look like the normal mounts, but also replace the outer cfk plate shims:

Blue are all plastic parts, cfk and arb-wires are grey
Of course I don't produce the plastic parts myself. After very good experiences with the KR-MF bulkheads, it was clear that I can trust sintered Nylon parts. I prepared the data for Shapeways:

And ordered the parts:


At the same time I ordered the cfk-plates as well. I hope they will arrive on saturday.
If you want to take a closer look at the parts --> I opened a Shapeways shop for fun:
https://www.shapeways.com/shops/kr-m...utosport-teile
Last edited by wtcc; 09-06-2018 at 07:01 AM.
#14
Really nice, Kev' ! This is what we call true rc hobby 
Instead of the sintered nylon ("versatile plastic" = strong and flexible), did you already try the "professional plastic" which is from another printing process developped by HP? Just curious if you have already compared both and what are your thoughts
Regards,
G-rem

Instead of the sintered nylon ("versatile plastic" = strong and flexible), did you already try the "professional plastic" which is from another printing process developped by HP? Just curious if you have already compared both and what are your thoughts

Regards,
G-rem
#15
No I haven’t... I saw that Shapeways added some materials, but didn‘t look into it... Would be cool if the new process could be more accurate on edges and and angled surfaces. My parts look a little ugly at some edges.
@Papi: I will maybe later check if it is possible. Depends on how the car performs if I got all my parts. If it lacks steering then...
@Papi: I will maybe later check if it is possible. Depends on how the car performs if I got all my parts. If it lacks steering then...




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