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Old 09-06-2018, 11:09 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by wtcc View Post
No I haven’t... I saw that Shapeways added some materials, but didn‘t look into it... Would be cool if the new process could be more accurate on edges and and angled surfaces. My parts look a little ugly at some edges.
Don't know if your CAD software allows filet (in French, it is "congé de face", maybe you can try to translate it to German for better understanding), but if it does, you can draw a 0.5mm filet so that you have a nice rounded angle between faces
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Old 09-06-2018, 11:12 AM
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G-rem forgot the best part about fillet, they make the part sexier CURVES
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Old 09-06-2018, 11:38 AM
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Rounding edges indeed works flawless with small parts in a Shapeways production. I chamfered some edges, but that only creates two edges
I wanted to make it look cool with sharp edges...lesson learned.
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Old 09-06-2018, 12:09 PM
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Last update for today:

Part of trying to get the best performance out of the car was not only to use some parts that "could do it", but use the best. Well, and I ordered a new high performance touring car chassis with the TC7.2, so my Xray T4 is actually a roller. As result of this thinking, the TRF416 suspension went back onto my FF03. I also bought a new TT-02 tub chassis for 5,49€ (my old one was tweaked). It got the full T4 suspension with arb, hard plastic hubs and graphite arms. At this point I must admit to be very happy that Tamiya and Xray agreed on the same sizes for hinge pins and axles. It was pure plug and play. After a little pondering I decided to buy the TT-02 Type-S steel suspension mount set (54634). This should be more durable in a chrash and allows to drive (inboard) toe at the rear. Unfortunately Tamiya got the measurement a little wrong: The whole pin setup has more slop than I hoped it would have...



And that is the current status of this project. What is left of the TT-02 from the beginning? The tub chassis, the drive shaft, differentials bearings and servo mounts
Maybe some of you recognized these strange "screws" standing out of the tub chassis near the differentials. I want to try something else here. We call it "Stehbolzen" in Germany. The online translation says stud, stay bolt or stud bolt. The idea is to conserve the thread in the tub chassis by using a M3x16mm set screw and a nut screw to tighten (like you would with an aluminium engine block).
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Old 09-06-2018, 12:29 PM
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Are those the ulp shock?
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Old 09-06-2018, 12:34 PM
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No, SLPs.
Don't tease me
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Old 09-06-2018, 12:54 PM
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Originally Posted by wtcc View Post
Maybe some of you recognized these strange "screws" standing out of the tub chassis near the differentials. I want to try something else here. We call it "Stehbolzen" in Germany. The online translation says stud, stay bolt or stud bolt. The idea is to conserve the thread in the tub chassis by using a M3x16mm set screw and a nut screw to tighten (like you would with an aluminium engine block).
Yup, they're just called "Studs" in the English world. you're making a good choice, especially with that soft tub. Are you using a thread forming tap yet? I might even consider bonding the studs into the chassis.

Several of the cars I've built recently use studs to screw the ball ends on to. Though, personally, I'd spec longer studs than the car manufacturers are having me use.
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Old 09-06-2018, 01:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Nerobro View Post
Are you using a thread forming tap yet?
No, I don't. I just twist the studs in and that is it. I think with metric thread studs it make sense. Before I used the original Tamiya kit screws. And they work exceptional well in this plastic material. I never overtightened or damaged a thread. It is also experience. After nearly ten years into this hobby I developed a sense for the right amount of torque for plastic, aluminium and steel.
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Old 09-06-2018, 01:16 PM
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I'd only very, very, rarely strip a screw. And never on the first use of a hole. Thread formed (i'm being specific here, because thread cutting is a no-no here.) holes have this lovely solid "thunk" of sorts, when you bottom out the fastener. The rise in torque from "spinning threads" to "seated parts" is really nice to feel.

If you were on this side of the any ocean, I'd send you one.
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Old 09-06-2018, 05:28 PM
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Originally Posted by G-rem View Post
Really nice, Kev' ! This is what we call true rc hobby
Instead of the sintered nylon ("versatile plastic" = strong and flexible), did you already try the "professional plastic" which is from another printing process developped by HP? Just curious if you have already compared both and what are your thoughts

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Don't want to clutter wtcc's thread too much but I just had some wheels printed in professional plastic from shapeways. Strength appears to be pretty good, better than I anticipated. Stiffness is somewhere between hpi nylon rims and more rigid Tamiya abs (??) wheels for a rough comparison. Impact strength is supposedly very good but I havent used the wheels yet or comment on that. Surface texture is very uniform and has a SLS printed or cast appearance. I plan on doing the next batch in versatile plastic and would be happy to post up a comparison.

wtcc keep up the good work. I've already got some new ideas. Just need to sneak in some more design time.
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Old 09-06-2018, 09:35 PM
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Originally Posted by wtcc View Post
No, I don't. I just twist the studs in and that is it. I think with metric thread studs it make sense. Before I used the original Tamiya kit screws. And they work exceptional well in this plastic material. I never overtightened or damaged a thread. It is also experience. After nearly ten years into this hobby I developed a sense for the right amount of torque for plastic, aluminium and steel.
The 1.5mm hex wrench is easier to break than a 2mm wrench, especially if you are forcing threads into the material for the first time. I would tap the holes, but leave a little bit untapped to act as a "lock nut". If you wanted to get fancy you could do threaded inserts, and use flathead screws in your carbon fiber pieces to help keep them aligned with the bulkhead.
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Old 09-07-2018, 06:21 PM
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Originally Posted by wtcc View Post
No, SLPs.
Don't tease me
Lol I really have to focus to tell the difference in photos they look very similar
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Old 09-08-2018, 09:37 AM
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Parts arrived
Today the carbon plates came. I am very impressed by the quality of the milling and the carbon.



Date of installation will be early next week (if I find time the TC7.2 will be finished first ).
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Old 09-08-2018, 11:40 AM
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This is both awesome, and silly. Are you sure you're german? I'm enjoying watching the build. :-)
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Old 09-08-2018, 01:07 PM
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I am a Japanese caught in the body of a German
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