Thanks "simple"! This what I thought, that the bumper holder has to be cutted and is not really stable anymore afterwards...

Are there any setups available for the SRX for carpet or asphalt?

On petitrc.com is nothing...

I run with a TT02 SRX will all the Tamiya available options (SSBB+ shocks with PSM related carbon shock towers, #54651 (alu upper arm mount), #54965 (alu steering set long), #54977 (alu servo mount), as well as all the lightweight bits related to the transmission), and I also use the YR alu adjustable motor mount (TT02-013BU), and titanium screws.

I run on a large flowing track, low to mid-low grip, with a HW Xerun V3.1 (boost timing to 20 - 25° just to avoid sleeping in the straight) and a Reedy Sonic Mach 2 21.5t (endbell timing to 31°) ; this should probably give me the same speed as a more modern 21.5t motor, but still lacking some power. IP 8400 LiPo long stick (certainly too heavy but I manage to run almost 20min like so). FDR around 4 to 4.5 and the use of a 40x40mm fan on the motor. Tyres are Hudy 36 (#803062), body is a Zoo Racing Gorilla Max (just because I like the style of this, but I've tried with an old PF Mazda Speed 6 and it worked even better).

Setup wise, here is what I managed to achieve after several testings :
Front
- droop : 5.4mm (measured with shocks mounted, and adjusted by putting shims between the piston and the shock body onto the shock axle)
- spring : SMJ 3.1
- Shock oil : 500cst
- Shock position top : 2nd hole from the top of the damper stay
- Shock position down : Tamiya 54943 in position C (i.e. : the most outward or closer to the wheel side)
- Camber : 1°
- Roll center : 1mm shim under the ball on the inner side / 0,5mm under the ball on the outer side (wheel side)
- Toe : 1°
- Ackerman : 1mm shim
- 1mm each side between wheelhubs and tyres
- Ride height : 5.4mm
- Spool

Rear
- droop : 4.6mm (measured with shocks mounted, and adjusted by putting shims between the piston and the shock body onto the shock axle)
- spring : SMJ 2.9
- Shock oil : 425cst
- Shock position top : 2nd hole from the bottom of the damper stay
- Shock position down : Tamiya 54943 in position C (i.e. : the most outward or closer to the wheel side)
- Camber : 2°
- Roll center : 2,5mm shim under the ball on the inner side / 0,5mm under the ball on the outer side (wheel side)
- Toe : 2.5° (flat, no skid angle)
- Ride height : 5.7mm
- Gear diff filled with 5k cst


For indoor, I've only run with a basic setup but the car was very good as well. It depends of course of the track grip level (I would say mine was high-mid to low-high). I've run with RCK28 tires and Ride 32 tires (same as for fronties at the ETS). Shock oil was 425cst everywhere and I used lower rate springs as well (to allow the car roll more, i.e. : Tamiya SSBB springs green F/R or red F / green R depending on the grip level at the front). Lower roll center as well at the rear (meaning less shim below the camber link on the "bulkhead" side). If I remember well, the front shocks were a bit more angled (i.e. : 2nd hole from the bottom of the damper stay). Of course, the main impact is tyres.

Hope this helps !
Regards
Jeremy

Tested again the above setup on the same track but in much colder conditions (air / track temp wise) and I can confirm this works pretty well indeed !

Its only a bumper mount - stability should be inconsequential assuming you mount the body posts from the shock tower as in the instructions.

Thank you Jeremy!

Based on the setup above, what change can I bring in order to gain more "free" speed within high speed turns ?
Indeed, my car with the above setup is able to turn into high-speed corner at full speed, but struggles to maintain its speed : I can litteraly see the car slowing down throughout the corner (I'd say starting from end of entry / begining of mid-corner) even if I'm full gaz on the radio still (no slight slow down nor braking input). A fellow racer with a Schumacher Mi8 was able to carry much more speed than me within the same corner whereas he got the same top speed at the end of the straight than myself and he full speed turned in as well.

Thanks for your ideas !
G-rem

You'll never be able to adjust the car to carry the same speed in a corner as an Mi8. The true measure of a race car is its ability to change direction, not straight line speed.
What you are sensing is likely the affect of the structural and component flex of the predominantly plastic car you are driving. The plastic chassis will flex so much with the corner forces that it will cause the tires to grip more and scrub speed.
That's the fundamental performance gap between an inexpensive plastic chassis kit and a full performance race kit with carbon fiber and aluminum components.

That could be, but my SRX is equipped with the TRF420 suspension, SSBB+ dampers,... Basically, the main tub is indeed plastic (hard version), but if it really is the reason why I loose so much speed going full gaz into the corner, then I'm a bit surprised (and disappointed)

I wonder how much chassis flex is eliminated by an aftermarket carbon fiber chassis brace (that attaches to the diff cases)?

In my opinion it may be a good idea for the standard chassis. The hard chassis bathtub (e.g. in the R or SRX versions) don't need it. Even not on high grip carpet...

Finished the wheels for an upcoming TT02 project that will have a BMW M1 Procar body by Carson in Germany.


Didn’t like the “toy car” looking chrome on the stock wheels-fixed that with flat clear on the rims.

oooo LaLa gonna have to check out Carson for that? Gotta a link

Went to buy another to do a Jäegermeister version but no luck-it’s no longer available-I bought the one I have almost 2 years ago on ebay. 😟

Yesterday I made a comparison between the Tamiya TRF421, the Associated TC8 and the TT-02 SRX.
The SRX was extremly close to the high end cars, but the lap times with these were a tenth faster and a little
more consistent.
Not bad looking at the price difference...

By the way, all three were equipped with the same body (BD Eptron), motors, tires, batteries...

Mind sharing pictures & setup ?