The 21.5 is too slow for Jackson. Big Dog is huge too. Should be 17.5 on large outdoor tracks and 21.5 on indoor carpet. With the weight and motor timing spec at 180 Raceway earlier this year the 21.5 was slower than what we were used too but it was still fun as the track is only 80 x 34 but super high bite on the black CRC carpet.

Does the class need more torque without more speed?

It's the same problem with "spec" racing in that while trying to keep competition close and/or costs low, the unintended consequence is it becomes a battle over something else.

I think the best thing would be to open up TT02 to ALL Tamiya only upgrades, with the caveat being that you are only allowed to pick a maximum of 4-5 "upgrades" above stock, with each upgrade being a Tamiya part number. Have a spec tire and have a brushed (23T Sport or Torque Tuned) and brushless (amy 21.5 fixed timing) motor option. Bearings and pinion/spur combos should be free, but NO trimming of any parts should be allowed. Simple.

If I were running brushless, I would have pick the speed tuned gear set (54500) to take advantage of the brushless setup (upgrade 1), 54752 Steering kit(upgrade 2), which leaves 3 more items to upgrade to suit whatever my driving style or track may be.

Want that additional toe-in in the rear? That's one upgrade point. Want front universals so you can have more steering throw without the dogbones popping out? That's one upgrade point. Want a heatsink so you can gear higher for a more ideal FDR? That's another upgrade point. Want the CVA shocks to balance out the car and lower the ride height? Upgrade point.

With a fixed amount of upgrade points, people are going to have to pick whether they want speed, durability, driveablity, etc...

21.5 with the max allowed gearing was painfully slow at the TCS in Vegas. During practice, the Euro trucks would pass me on the straights.

At rc madness the club class is tt02 with torque tuned motor. When practicing with my tcs prospec against club cars with torque tuned motor it is significantly slower.

I think moving to 17.5 fixed timing and fixed gearing is better option hopefully they update the rules it just a bit to slow as is.....or go back to torque tuned motors but that is another can of worms......

Jamie

I was there, we were doing 25sec lap in Pro spec A-maim and Euro were doing 27.5 sec lap A-main.

Hi,

for those who run the SRX version on local / club race ; what droop do you use FR and RR on asphalt ? How do you measure it ?

Also, this chassis being specific, how / where do you measure the ride height FR and RR ? Any pics welcomed !

Thanks
G-rem

Droop is non-adjustable.

Droop and ride height is a preference tune.

You can adjust droop the way its done in 1/10 scale offroad. Put a 1mm spacer in the shock and screw the eyelet in or out to suite.

Well, yeah, but not sure if that was what he was asking though.

He has the SRX not the standard kit. SRX uses different arms and has an optional piece you can add for droop.

Steps for ride height and droop as follow:
1. Set ride height with battery in car. Your target should be around 5.2 and 5.0 front. Best way to measure rear is at centre of back. Front, I usually remove the bumper so I can measure the front. On SRX, the screws go through the suspension holder. So you would have to reattach those in.

2. once right height is set, disconnect shocks.
3. If you have droop gauge, you place them under the chassis. If you don’t, you can measure from top of axle to surface.

For front, if your ride height it 5, you want droop at 6 mm. So you would screw in the adjusters till 6 mm is achieved.

rear if you set 5.2, you want droop around 5.7

This is a good starting point. After it’s set you can adjust after you do some laps. Making sure to do equal turns on left and right.

Thanks Raman, very insightful. So as a standard rule 1mm droop over ride height in front and 0,5mm over ride height in the rear.

Regarding the ride height measurement, I find it less easy than on standard carbon car because of the shape of the chassis at the rear. At front, it is indeed trunkated by the protruding bumper support.

One thing regarding your description of the technic to adjust droop : are you making reference to the shock collar adjuster ? I thaught droop could only be set by putting shims under the piston in the shock body ? Because on the SRX, there is no possibility to put droop screw in the TRF420 arms.

Regards
G-rem

These are a popular droop solution for the TT02 SRX. They are the originals and nice thick carbon so they don’t bend like the copies that are out there.

https://www.fibre-lyte.co.uk/fl/cars...srxtrf420.html

Not sure... didn't the SRX have the even newer suspension/arms so the droop parts (for the previous version, like on the SR, for example) don't work any more?

you’re right the SRX has the 420 arms with the droop holes on opposite end that the optional droop part needs. Easy solution would be to add holes to the arms for the set screws. Or switch to the older arms that the original type S came with

Or add the part Qatmix referenced.