Tnx for your reply! Did you do something special to like high charge/discharge cycle before that? Or do the Gens Ace have such low IR out of the box?

I'm still in the novice-phase and have cheap lipo's. I guess at some point I will need the higher end ones. But first I need to practice more. The biggest gain lies there fore the moment ;-)

I use the RC Discharger so I cycle my packs. The only way you'll see low IRs is if you discharge/charge the packs or heat them using a battery warmer (battery warmers are not advisable). But the Gens Ace Redline 2.0 packs have performed very well. Buddy of mine has all sorts of testing equipment and has tested most of the Gens Ace Redline 2.0 packs and they have tested as good as some higher end $$$ packs. So take that for what its worth.

TT02-SRX
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...c79e845b6e.png

17.5, for serious? Can you share more build details? The shaft, bearing holders, shocks, etc.?

Pretty much threw a bunch of MTTR parts on the car, relocated upper link mount, sway bar, downstop plate, shorty battery holder, front and rear shaft bearing mount, motor mount, and floating servo mount. Tamiya steering link and the shocks from the TA08 since Im not running that car at the moment. carbon shaft is from 3racing

And yes, 17.5T, thats how we roll here. Running ~3.5FDR right now but the people here are all running 4.0FDR so gonna switch it up.

Indoor or outdoor? What surface?

Nice....What is your measured trackwidth? 190mm measured or less ?

outdoor

Won our club's spec TT-02 with my SRX 21.5T blinky with spec 4.7 FDR during our annual Nationals event this past weekend.

Things I've learned.

• I blew the front spool output cups...TWICE in Q1 (at the end) and Q2 (mid-way), essentially limping on 3 wheels. Ended up going to my backup XV-02 diff with 30K oil for the front for Q3 and nailed P1, but I didn't get TQ due to issues with my diff/tires in the previous two qualifiers.
• The soon-to-be spec SWEEP D-36 treaded tires with spoked wheels were terrible with the soft pink foams (#2402) as the car was just inconsistent and squirming, esp in 103°F weather and heavy chassis (1.6kg with body). Swapped back to the Tamiya B3 tires with the green Medium inserts and shaved off 1.5 seconds off my time in Q3 to get me into P1 and eventually winning the Main.
• My car is heavy at over 1.6kg with the body on on a 21.5T spec motor with all the plastic and aluminum bits

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...f511c663a.jpeg
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...590541979b.jpg
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...ae972aa0d.jpeg

Can you provide a setup sheet and description of the surface?

i been trying to find info but cant find anything either on forums or searching the web. it might have been answered but i just cant find. im going to be doing a 1000 lap enduro that is near box stock tt-01/tt-02 base kits. cars are using stock gearing on silver can motors so they wont be fast. im goign to be using a tt-02 chassis with the porshe 992 body (251 wheel base) the body comes with the wing but im wondering if i should us it or not. my car is going to be over the min weight of 1450 grams so to add a wing that might do nothing will just add weight, raise COG and the wing stand offs could break. does anyone have experience with tamiya stock/basic kits where they ran with/without the wing and did you notice a difference or no? i dont want to put holes in the body for the wing if i can avoid it

I just measured the painted wing and associated hardware from my 992 body and it was just under 12 grams. At silver can speeds, I really don’t think there’s going to be any aerodynamic benefit, so if you want to save the weight, you might as well leave if off.



I competed in a 4 hour TT-02 enduro a few months ago. The rules were basically box stock TT-02s with some minor allowances for durability (bearings, plastic Tamiya oil dampers, etc.). It was amazing how close the racing was. Between 1st and 2nd it was 3 laps, and between 4th and 5th it was 1 lap. It was critical you had a good battery swap strategy and process. Also, over the 4 hours, multiple cars had assorted broken parts. It was important to have spare parts / tools ready to quickly get back out on track.

They also had the coolest trophies!

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...a77d1e031d.jpg

What steering rack is in the pics of the 2 cars above?
part numbers please for all parts needed. Thanks

That is a seriously cool trophy! We have 2 teams going and I just did what I could to pull weight out of the cars. Oddly enough the chassis I plan to use is 10 grams heavier then the other team. I'm also running a heavier high mA battery so that makes it worse haha. I managed to get the other team car 15 grams under min weight but I'm looking to be 25 grams over weight. Going to do more testing after work at my local track. I been using a beater body and I'm gonna try with and without the wing. The body is a proline c7 Vette, so it has a pretty big wing on it, bigger then the tamiya. So if I can't notice a difference with the c7, I don't think I'll gain anything on the tamiya

We had a 1/10 scale 24 hour enduro several years back. My team and I did some brainstorming with the rules we had. But then I came down with COVID the week of our enduro and never got a chance to try our ideas.
1) Go light as possible.
2) bigger battery means less pit stops. Also balances the car better than lighter battery.
3) have many many spare parts
4) practice battery changes under pressure - in our case we screamed at the person changing batteries :)
5) keep the motor COOL with fans - the torque tuned motors liked to be cold
6) slow and steady wins the race
7) reinforce the front steering knuckles with longer screw. I think the kit calls for 10mm we used 12mm.