have you figured out if Tamiya 42372 RC DOUBLE CARDAN JOINT SHAFTS with 54477 out drive work on stock tt-02 suspension?
shout 22054 37mm shaft be used as the double joint part makes it longer?

Tamiya has them for about 10 bucks

Worked on my new SRX for my local club's TT-02 class.

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...ade0f6273.jpeg
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...fa46571e1.jpeg

TT-02 Spins to CCW, pushes CW
 

Hey guys this one has me stumped. This car will spin when pushed hard on left hand turns or with abrupt throttle during a corner, but to the right it will never spin no matter how hard I mash the throttle. On a hard turn in with no throttle it will start to slide turning left, but it will never do it to the right. I've put it on my arrowmax setup station and the numbers are all good. I have the Tamia CVA super mini shocks. The car goes straight under throttle and off throttle. The turning radius is exactly the same, I physically match the diameter of the circles on flat concrete. There's no excessive play. The lateral balance is pretty close, not enough to cause this kind of nonsense. All four hubs are mounted properly, none of them are upside down. I have a spool on the front and very light grease in the rear. Heavy grease in the rear didn't make a difference. I know the wiring is ugly, I just converted it from a shorty with the ESC on the battery side and I'm not going to dial it in until it handles. This is on contact 32s and yokomo 28a's. There is no servo binding at the endpoint, I make sure to back it off to zero buzz before I do the physical circles to even the steering completely. I just printed some -2° knuckles and it did not change the handling. I've used the setup station before and after these knuckles and they are perfect at -1 camber and 2° toe in per side. I was hopeful that a lot of rear toe and would help but no. I'm running a savox 1258 and It centers great . The shocks are all the same length. I have it set up with a reasonable for this chassis ride height and it has about a third of the travel in droop. Basically when I lift the car the springs have just a little free play. This setup works reasonably well on any other touring car I've used for a base setup. Interestingly I have a Euro Truck that does the same, but I purchased it used and the guy who had it was a cheater and it has weights that I took off and the rear chassis has part of it glued together so I can't disassemble it and check it out. On that vehicle I assumed it was just something the guy had done. Now I have the same problem with this car. I've built of cars, I have x-ray t4, TC3, tc4, x-ray F1, cero V2 and sport. I've probably built another 50 cars over the years for off-road. I'm ready to throw this thing at a wall. I even went so far as to add extra preload to only the front right shock and it's still did it. I've swapped the shocks around. Ugggh. I hate this car!!!
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...1ee0bf3d51.jpg

Front diff should be heavy grease "almost" locked, rear diff nothing at all. Even the lightest grease in the rear makes these cars step out.👍

Also ditch the rear bumper, it's a chunk of unnecessary weight that works on the pendulum, if you want the rear to stick you need front weight not rear weight.

Also look to be missing the screws in the rear arm mount up front.

And the rear too.....

while a fun car to drive its best just to replace the chassis and all the a arms and upper control arms. start fresh. that should resolve all your issues. these cars have a tendency to clap out over time. nit sure what rules u have to follow for racing? however we run spools and tamiya oil diffs

TT-02 Spins to CCW, pushes CW
 

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...556c991b7e.jpg

First of all let me say thank you so much everybody for your quick responses!
Sorry about the missing screws. I had chassis brace I printed that I took off to make sure it wasn't introducing tweak. The problem persist with the screws installed. This car is far from clapped out. It doesn't even have two packs through it yet and it hadn't been crashed until my latest test run, I traction rolled flinging it around trying to assess the handling on my hill. Oops! Before that it's only been on the track one time and it let me down and I parked it. I thought it was due to the shorty pack upsetting balance but it wasn't. This car is typical to me cheap car sloppy, but sloppy never really makes a whole lot of difference in my experience. I've spent hours and hours shimming things on other cars to perfection only to have them drive the same. You probably wouldn't believe my shim collection if I told you. The rear diff grease is extremely light, if I spend one wheel in the back they will counter rotate for almost 1 second. I would call it more lubed then greased up. I enjoy loose rear diffs that keep the cars from stepping out because they unload the inside tire. Interestingly after that roll which was not wimpy and I didn't have a body on it it now has zero degrees camber on the front right and the same 1.5 on the left front. I gave it a huge bunch of twists both ways and the chassis doesn't seem tweaked I think I bent the knuckle.
If it really needs a new chassis and new arms already I'm over it. The guys that are racing these crash like crazy, but I've never driven their cars and most of them don't have a ton of experience, they may not care/notice about different cornering left and right. When I'm watching The other guys it does seem like when they corner hard and get on the gas early it can get a little sideways or a lot sideways both ways. Even a Scandinavian flick will barely make it spin to the right.

TT-02 Spins to CCW, pushes CW
 

Here's the behavior. Grrrr.

TT-02 Spins to CCW, pushes CW
 

Here's the behavior.
Before this run I swapped tires and shocks locations, as well as swap the rear axles side to side, and hexes front to rear rear to front. Grrrr.

In my experience these cars tend to unload the rear too easily in a lot of situations. I realize that doesn’t help determine why yours is doing this in one direction but not the other. I typically run Tamiya stiff springs in front and medium in the rear. Try adding some internal limiters to the rear shocks to see if that helps. I didn’t catch it in your original post but do you have a bearing kit in the car? I’m wondering if using the stock bushings you’re getting some weird binding under the weight of cornering…but just throwing ideas around. These cars are barely more than toy grade, and I say that as someone who loves the tt02 for what it is. Sometimes they just behave a little funny and you have to find ways to compensate, maybe just bumping up the ride height a hair on one side if it helps, or dialing back steering in one direction to prevent oversteer, even loosening up bulkhead screws or steering rack screws a smidge. I’d take it back to the track to run it on a prepped surface with prepped tires and just spend some time figuring out how to get it driving to your liking.

One more thing, you’re not using the stock servo saver right? I can’t tell for certain in the photo.

Did this rear stepping out just start happening?
Shaft driven cars are know to have on power torque steer due to the nature of rotating mass and the way the TT02's diffs are setup.
Also the Traxxas 550 motor is very torquey down low, maybe tune your radio for more negative expo?