R/C Tech Forums

R/C Tech Forums (https://www.rctech.net/forum/)
-   Electric On-Road (https://www.rctech.net/forum/electric-road-2/)
-   -   Tamiya TT02 Thread (https://www.rctech.net/forum/electric-road/700357-tamiya-tt02-thread.html)

magnumcyclonex 04-07-2026 10:32 AM

Go to www.tamiyausa.com/tcs/rules and for the GT Pro Spec Porsche/Ford/Mercedes/Toyota class, there are specific rules and a full list of hop ups allowed under Article 15. DCJ's are NOT one of those hop ups.

Monotremata 04-07-2026 01:55 PM


Originally Posted by magnumcyclonex (Post 16252506)
Go to www.tamiyausa.com/tcs/rules and for the GT Pro Spec Porsche/Ford/Mercedes/Toyota class, there are specific rules and a full list of hop ups allowed under Article 15. DCJ's are NOT one of those hop ups.

Are we positive on that?? I just finished putting the direct coupling in mine last week, along with the oil-filled 2-gear diff (54875) in the back. According to the specs:


3.16 Internal Drive Gears: You must use the internal drive gears called out in the chassis assembly manual. The internal drive gears of ANY chassis platform may not be altered, changed, or modified, unless it is done with the Tamiya Hop-Up Options designed for that specific purpose. Using different Pulley, Ring, and Pinion gears, from different chassis platforms, to create a hybrid internal drive ratio is not allowed. Furthermore, you are not allowed to file, machine, or Dremel the gear drive line to squeeze in a bigger pinion, and spur gear combination.
Article 15 doesn't really call out the direct coupler on its own, and the list they have at the end is just the 'recommended' hop ups. That sounds to me like its good to go? The packaging even says TT-02 on it.

Typeone - You'll need to buy the following pieces for the universal shafts, 54623 , 51700 , 51444. I picked up the direct drive coupler, the gear diff and the 53792 universals at the same time, then realized I needed to go back and buy those other pieces to make the shafts for the direct drive hah. You don't need to bother with the drive cups though. With the correct universal shafts, both the direct drive and the gear diff just use the cups that come with them.

magnumcyclonex 04-07-2026 02:41 PM


Originally Posted by Monotremata (Post 16252532)
Are we positive on that?? I just finished putting the direct coupling in mine last week, along with the oil-filled 2-gear diff (54875) in the back. According to the specs:



Article 15 doesn't really call out the direct coupler on its own, and the list they have at the end is just the 'recommended' hop ups. That sounds to me like its good to go? The packaging even says TT-02 on it.

Typeone - You'll need to buy the following pieces for the universal shafts, 54623 , 51700 , 51444. I picked up the direct drive coupler, the gear diff and the 53792 universals at the same time, then realized I needed to go back and buy those other pieces to make the shafts for the direct drive hah. You don't need to bother with the drive cups though. With the correct universal shafts, both the direct drive and the gear diff just use the cups that come with them.

I didn't say anything about the Direct Coupling. I only mentioned the Double Carden Joints are not on that recommended hop up list. It's best to double check with the local racetrack and see how strict they tech their cars. If it's just at the local club, it might be a little lax, but at a TCS event, I would not take any chances and follow everything outlined in those rules.

Monotremata 04-07-2026 03:12 PM


Originally Posted by magnumcyclonex (Post 16252537)
I didn't say anything about the Direct Coupling. I only mentioned the Double Carden Joints are not on that recommended hop up list. It's best to double check with the local racetrack and see how strict they tech their cars. If it's just at the local club, it might be a little lax, but at a TCS event, I would not take any chances and follow everything outlined in those rules.

Ahh good call. I know you can't use any of the suspension from the SRX (or the S), but I figured the rest of it is just 'hop ups' per the book. I didn't bother as I bought the R so I just left the aluminum joints it came with. I thought it was weird the TT-02BR had the same parts (I thought) but the shaft in that one does use those little plastic wings on it. The TT-02R just goes straight in as is.. I pretty much had most of the stuff on their recommended list already set aside so I should be good to go come June (FINALLY finishing up the body today/tomorrow). Just need to get the springs maybe, but I'm gonna take this over to Revelation to get a head start and practice and see how the stock black springs go before any more money goes into it at this point hah. I think I've already paid 3x the price of the kit, and I'm still waiting for them to announce the chosen tires too.


Vertebreaker 04-07-2026 03:14 PM


Originally Posted by magnumcyclonex (Post 16252537)
I didn't say anything about the Direct Coupling. I only mentioned the Double Carden Joints are not on that recommended hop up list. It's best to double check with the local racetrack and see how strict they tech their cars. If it's just at the local club, it might be a little lax, but at a TCS event, I would not take any chances and follow everything outlined in those rules.

When I went they said that the only things not allowed were any of the Type S arms, aluminum shocks, carbon towers, any mods to any of the parts (dremeling out stuff) but all other hop ups made for the TT02 were good to go. Before this I was thinking that no hop ups could be used that came out mainly for the S, SR, SRX versions but it was only for the specific items listed.

Aaron P 04-07-2026 06:09 PM

I use the factory spool and I'm currently building DCJ's for my TCS TT-02R. They are not restricted parts per the rules....not that anyone checks anyway. The only thing I've seen tech'd at the regional level is weight, battery voltage, blinky, and running the HW FTM.

bertrandsv87 04-08-2026 11:48 AM

No teching the screw material(only made by tamiya), or paint composition??? Over control to its finest...

Monotremata 04-08-2026 02:54 PM


Originally Posted by bertrandsv87 (Post 16252692)
No teching the screw material(only made by tamiya), or paint composition??? Over control to its finest...

No clue what you mean by paint composition, the rules just state the body must be painted.

As far as screws, it's only Tamiya hardware if you end up winning the 'Ticket To Japan'. Otherwise, any manufacturer's steel, aluminum, or titanium screw is allowed.


Typeone 04-08-2026 10:13 PM


Originally Posted by Aaron P (Post 16252567)
I use the factory spool and I'm currently building DCJ's for my TCS TT-02R. They are not restricted parts per the rules....not that anyone checks anyway. The only thing I've seen tech'd at the regional level is weight, battery voltage, blinky, and running the HW FTM.

Can you add part numbers for the front dcj's. Thanks

bertrandsv87 04-09-2026 11:16 AM


Originally Posted by Monotremata (Post 16252727)
No clue what you mean by paint composition, the rules just state the body must be painted.

As far as screws, it's only Tamiya hardware if you end up winning the 'Ticket To Japan'. Otherwise, any manufacturer's steel, aluminum, or titanium screw is allowed.

I meant you'll need to use tamiya paint only ! Make sure it's a 'Tamiya' ticket before boarding the plane...lol...

Monotremata 04-09-2026 06:09 PM


Originally Posted by bertrandsv87 (Post 16252850)
I meant you'll need to use tamiya paint only ! Make sure it's a 'Tamiya' ticket before boarding the plane...lol...

Nowhere in the rules does it state it has to be any particular brand of paint.. Not that they would even remotely be able to tell unless you came in with some ride that was painted in like Rustoleum Chrome or some color they obviously don't make.

honda93 04-16-2026 03:05 PM


Originally Posted by Monotremata (Post 16252894)
Nowhere in the rules does it state it has to be any particular brand of paint.. Not that they would even remotely be able to tell unless you came in with some ride that was painted in like Rustoleum Chrome or some color they obviously don't make.

It's called sarcasm.

Ram_says 04-16-2026 03:22 PM


Originally Posted by Monotremata (Post 16252532)
Are we positive on that?? I just finished putting the direct coupling in mine last week, along with the oil-filled 2-gear diff (54875) in the back. According to the specs:

Is the metal geared diff prefered over the plastic? I accidentally ordered the metal gear version. I'm also running a front spool. I also read earlier in the thread the the Raikiri body is recommended. I currently have the nissan motul gtr body.

magnumcyclonex 04-16-2026 04:21 PM


Originally Posted by Ram_says (Post 16254117)
Is the metal geared diff prefered over the plastic? I accidentally ordered the metal gear version. I'm also running a front spool. I also read earlier in the thread the the Raikiri body is recommended. I currently have the nissan motul gtr body.

I personally prefer the plastic version (22049) over the metal version (54875). It's lighter and does the job well enough. I race carpet with Torque Tuned Motor or Hobbywing 21.5 FTM, so it's not insanely fast. I had the older metal ones from long ago and one of the spider gears became stuck and was a royal pain to pull off.

The Raikiri body is Tamiya's lowest profile touring car body. It's not typically allowed in certain TCS classes such as the GT Pro Spec. But if you are just driving around for fun, it doesn't really matter what body you use.

Raman 04-17-2026 08:09 AM

I graduated from bashing to racing 18 years ago. I have yet to blow the internal plastic gears on a single diff in racing. Metal gears are over kill for onroad. Off road is a different story.


All times are GMT -7. It is currently 01:35 PM.

Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.3.9 Patch Level 3
Copyright © 2026 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.