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Go to www.tamiyausa.com/tcs/rules and for the GT Pro Spec Porsche/Ford/Mercedes/Toyota class, there are specific rules and a full list of hop ups allowed under Article 15. DCJ's are NOT one of those hop ups.
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Originally Posted by magnumcyclonex
(Post 16252506)
Go to www.tamiyausa.com/tcs/rules and for the GT Pro Spec Porsche/Ford/Mercedes/Toyota class, there are specific rules and a full list of hop ups allowed under Article 15. DCJ's are NOT one of those hop ups.
3.16 Internal Drive Gears: You must use the internal drive gears called out in the chassis assembly manual. The internal drive gears of ANY chassis platform may not be altered, changed, or modified, unless it is done with the Tamiya Hop-Up Options designed for that specific purpose. Using different Pulley, Ring, and Pinion gears, from different chassis platforms, to create a hybrid internal drive ratio is not allowed. Furthermore, you are not allowed to file, machine, or Dremel the gear drive line to squeeze in a bigger pinion, and spur gear combination. Typeone - You'll need to buy the following pieces for the universal shafts, 54623 , 51700 , 51444. I picked up the direct drive coupler, the gear diff and the 53792 universals at the same time, then realized I needed to go back and buy those other pieces to make the shafts for the direct drive hah. You don't need to bother with the drive cups though. With the correct universal shafts, both the direct drive and the gear diff just use the cups that come with them. |
Originally Posted by Monotremata
(Post 16252532)
Are we positive on that?? I just finished putting the direct coupling in mine last week, along with the oil-filled 2-gear diff (54875) in the back. According to the specs:
Article 15 doesn't really call out the direct coupler on its own, and the list they have at the end is just the 'recommended' hop ups. That sounds to me like its good to go? The packaging even says TT-02 on it. Typeone - You'll need to buy the following pieces for the universal shafts, 54623 , 51700 , 51444. I picked up the direct drive coupler, the gear diff and the 53792 universals at the same time, then realized I needed to go back and buy those other pieces to make the shafts for the direct drive hah. You don't need to bother with the drive cups though. With the correct universal shafts, both the direct drive and the gear diff just use the cups that come with them. |
Originally Posted by magnumcyclonex
(Post 16252537)
I didn't say anything about the Direct Coupling. I only mentioned the Double Carden Joints are not on that recommended hop up list. It's best to double check with the local racetrack and see how strict they tech their cars. If it's just at the local club, it might be a little lax, but at a TCS event, I would not take any chances and follow everything outlined in those rules.
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Originally Posted by magnumcyclonex
(Post 16252537)
I didn't say anything about the Direct Coupling. I only mentioned the Double Carden Joints are not on that recommended hop up list. It's best to double check with the local racetrack and see how strict they tech their cars. If it's just at the local club, it might be a little lax, but at a TCS event, I would not take any chances and follow everything outlined in those rules.
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I use the factory spool and I'm currently building DCJ's for my TCS TT-02R. They are not restricted parts per the rules....not that anyone checks anyway. The only thing I've seen tech'd at the regional level is weight, battery voltage, blinky, and running the HW FTM.
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No teching the screw material(only made by tamiya), or paint composition??? Over control to its finest...
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Originally Posted by bertrandsv87
(Post 16252692)
No teching the screw material(only made by tamiya), or paint composition??? Over control to its finest...
As far as screws, it's only Tamiya hardware if you end up winning the 'Ticket To Japan'. Otherwise, any manufacturer's steel, aluminum, or titanium screw is allowed. |
Originally Posted by Aaron P
(Post 16252567)
I use the factory spool and I'm currently building DCJ's for my TCS TT-02R. They are not restricted parts per the rules....not that anyone checks anyway. The only thing I've seen tech'd at the regional level is weight, battery voltage, blinky, and running the HW FTM.
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Originally Posted by Monotremata
(Post 16252727)
No clue what you mean by paint composition, the rules just state the body must be painted.
As far as screws, it's only Tamiya hardware if you end up winning the 'Ticket To Japan'. Otherwise, any manufacturer's steel, aluminum, or titanium screw is allowed. |
Originally Posted by bertrandsv87
(Post 16252850)
I meant you'll need to use tamiya paint only ! Make sure it's a 'Tamiya' ticket before boarding the plane...lol...
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Originally Posted by Monotremata
(Post 16252894)
Nowhere in the rules does it state it has to be any particular brand of paint.. Not that they would even remotely be able to tell unless you came in with some ride that was painted in like Rustoleum Chrome or some color they obviously don't make.
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Originally Posted by Monotremata
(Post 16252532)
Are we positive on that?? I just finished putting the direct coupling in mine last week, along with the oil-filled 2-gear diff (54875) in the back. According to the specs:
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Originally Posted by Ram_says
(Post 16254117)
Is the metal geared diff prefered over the plastic? I accidentally ordered the metal gear version. I'm also running a front spool. I also read earlier in the thread the the Raikiri body is recommended. I currently have the nissan motul gtr body.
The Raikiri body is Tamiya's lowest profile touring car body. It's not typically allowed in certain TCS classes such as the GT Pro Spec. But if you are just driving around for fun, it doesn't really matter what body you use. |
I graduated from bashing to racing 18 years ago. I have yet to blow the internal plastic gears on a single diff in racing. Metal gears are over kill for onroad. Off road is a different story.
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