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Originally Posted by fat500
(Post 16200569)
What steering rack is in the pics of the 2 cars above?
part numbers please for all parts needed. Thanks https://www.tamiyausa.com/shop/optio...-steering-set/ |
Yes it works great
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Originally Posted by Raman
(Post 16200753)
54965, it’s designed for the Type S/SR/SRX. Don’t think it will work on the standard suspension
https://www.tamiyausa.com/shop/optio...-steering-set/ My bridge that goes over the front gear box was ever so slightly bent when I got hit by a less experience driver and when turning it would ever so slightly get stuck on the gearbox. |
Originally Posted by MikeTKD
(Post 16200620)
We had a 1/10 scale 24 hour enduro several years back. My team and I did some brainstorming with the rules we had. But then I came down with COVID the week of our enduro and never got a chance to try our ideas.
1) Go light as possible. 2) bigger battery means less pit stops. Also balances the car better than lighter battery. 3) have many many spare parts 4) practice battery changes under pressure - in our case we screamed at the person changing batteries :) 5) keep the motor COOL with fans - the torque tuned motors liked to be cold 6) slow and steady wins the race 7) reinforce the front steering knuckles with longer screw. I think the kit calls for 10mm we used 12mm. |
Originally Posted by ajgkirkwood
(Post 16200901)
lol of course in practice last night i snapped a steering knuckle (and i ordered in 12mm screws yesterday too haha) i did have a thought though if i should drill out the hole so i can put a longer screw that goes right to the inner diameter of the knuckle opening. so i can put like a 14mm screw in
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Originally Posted by MikeTKD
(Post 16200835)
I had the Type SR steering bridge on my standard TT02 for a bit. While I loved the "less slop" it was a bit fragile with hits from the front corners.
My bridge that goes over the front gear box was ever so slightly bent when I got hit by a less experience driver and when turning it would ever so slightly get stuck on the gearbox. |
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...fd37a538d.jpeg
Will be running the Raikiri GT body on my SRX for my club. |
Bro honestly that's the cleanest Raikiri body I have seen. Super pretty.
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Originally Posted by MikeTKD
(Post 16200954)
That's what I did. I used a reamer to make the hole deeper and put a longer screw in to make it more solid. I've been on the same knuckles for 4 years.
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Looks like someone has been paying attention to the posts on here ...LOLhttps://www.rctech.net/forum/classic...ies/laugh2.gif
TCS National Finals is running the spec 17.5 HobbyWing Justock in GT ProSpec class. Cars will only use one of the two Porsche 992 bodies (51705 or 51752), car must be configured with short 251mm wheelbase and the HobbyWing Justock G3S ESC will have to have the RPM limit set (TBD). Rest of GT ProSpec rules apply. This eliminates the few folks that have the lightweight Mustang or Mercedes bodies and the car will have the motor to make better use of the limited gearing in the TT-02. |
Originally Posted by TonysScrews
(Post 16201651)
Looks like someone has been paying attention to the posts on here ...LOLhttps://www.rctech.net/forum/classic...ies/laugh2.gif
TCS National Finals is running the spec 17.5 HobbyWing Justock in GT ProSpec class. Cars will only use one of the two Porsche 992 bodies (51705 or 51752), car must be configured with short 251mm wheelbase and the HobbyWing Justock G3S ESC will have to have the RPM limit set (TBD). Rest of GT ProSpec rules apply. This eliminates the few folks that have the lightweight Mustang or Mercedes bodies and the car will have the motor to make better use of the limited gearing in the TT-02. |
Originally Posted by tony q
(Post 16201901)
I don’t get why change the motor from 21.5 to 17.5 and then set a limited RPM.
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Originally Posted by tony q
(Post 16201901)
I don’t get why change the motor from 21.5 to 17.5 and then set a limited RPM.
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Originally Posted by tony q
(Post 16201901)
I don’t get why change the motor from 21.5 to 17.5 and then set a limited RPM.
With the new timing rules in effect (46.0* per HobbyWing) the 21.5 motors are turning a much lower KV (maybe 2200-2300), add the minimum 1400g weight rule and these cars are now sluggish and slow. By going to the 17.5 you get the KV back up but then limiting the RPMs via the ESC gives Tamiya the control to set the pace of these cars based on the event/track size. ETS series in Europe has shown great success now running the HobbyWing platforms (Justock Motor/ESCs in lower classes, and higher end 100a ESC and G4 motors in the expert stock classes) and setting different RPM caps based on chassis (Fwd, TC, F1). With the RPM limit, its very easy to tech and completely levels the playing field top speed wise. |
Fred has clarified that the 17.5 is just for nationals and the 21.5 is still the standard motor for 2026 regionals. The choice of 17.5 for nats is due to the long straight at SCOR.
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