I had to use internal stops with the CVAs. I used an o ring on the fronts and the 2mm spacer from the shock parts tree to get where I wanted.

Has anyone seen that Tamiya is selling these Mercedes CLK TT-01E kits again?

$115 is hard to beat

https://www.amainhobbies.com/tamiya-...47437/p1172162

I just want the body.

Out in the parking lot playing around. The car likes to swap ends under acceleration. I would like to get more rear droop but the springs are too stiff. I set ride height and preload and get maybe 1 to 1.5 mm of rear droop. I'm running yellow fronts, kit rears. The beige springs seem softer than the reds. Ride height is 5.5 all around. I'm running internal stops in the shocks and the shimming preload with the spring spacers. If I take out the shims, I'm left with slop. I'd really like to find a longer, softer spring to allow more droop. Do I have to go aftermarket or is the a set of soft springs that works with the CVA shocks? I'm sticking with the CVA set as they are TCS legal for the class I plan to run.

I'm running the reds on the rear of mine. How many spacers do you have in your shocks?

I used to have 29mm springs in the CVA shocks of my TB-03. They are long enough to be installed without spacers.
MST 29mm springs
They are sold in pairs or in Sets of 8 springs. Maybe Set 820113 can be a good starting point for you: 820113 (buut no guarantee that they will have your needed characteristics)

liljohn1064 Have you tried the kit springs in the front and yellow in rear? Or yellow (that come with the CVAs) all around? I think those silver kit springs are stiffer than the yellow springs, which is going to make the car tail-happy.

Even with balanced springs (yellow) all around, I find it's relatively easy to get out of shape putting power down coming out of a corner. I suspect that the kit tires have a lot to do with it too.

OTOH, with only a torque tuned motor, changing to super sticky tires will eliminate any drama involved in driving this thing.

I completely agree. The kit springs are the softest. I have the hard set yellow on the front. They will come off. I ordered some Sweep 32 and 36 sets, both J type, the asphalt designation. I'm hoping for some better results.

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...c7afcff2a8.jpg

So I'm currently building the Tamiya TT02 universal shafts ... I machined this aluminum ring and attached to each universal wheel axle with some superglue. To capture the cross joint's pin and prevent it from coming loose.

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...070907fc94.jpg
Also tried something new here ... rubber cover on the universal joint to keep grease in and dirt out. I cut about 1" off the ends of Qualatex 260Q balloons to make these.

I bought the SkyRC GSM020 GPS a while back ... I wanted to track how fast the TT02 can go with a 19 turn, hand-wound brushed motor and 7.2v Ni-MH battery. Yesterday I changed to a 29T pinion and 55T spur gear (4.931 FDR) and put some advanced timing to the motor ... today it tops out at 37mph. Not bad.

The stock TBLE-02S ESC couldn't handle the motor anymore at this gear ratio though. I swapped it out with a Hobbywing QuicRun 1080 and it's working OK so far.
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...fcec9e7203.jpg

How do you take it apart in case of a damage or a needed repair?

Yeah I'd probably have to knock it loose with a hammer when that time comes. More ideal solution would've been to use a removable ring locked onto a groove on the shaft's outer diameter.

Also considering it comes w/ the ESC and a Motor, it is a GREAT deal, ...yet I have enough cars so as tempting as it is ...

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...7bf3fb6491.jpg
after one year not using my tt02s I upgrade the adjustable suspension block from the rear SR and the new aluminium steering... tomorrow I shorten the body posts and setup and race this weekend! I will see if it make the car better or worst ;)