wannabee

iTrader: (4)

I tried to make these as "generic" as possible and might need a quick hit with the dremel to fit over the swaybar mounts no biggie..

dstyles

sounds good to me

Droopz

Hey all. I just ordered a Cyclone (non Alan Moore Ed.) from Stormer and had a few (very) basic questions I hope you guys can help me with.

- Firstly, have anyone of you guys had any success in setting up your HB's for drifting?

- I might be completely wrong, but somewhere I read that Hot Bodies were somehow affiliated with HPI Is this really the case?

- Does the Cyclone support the use of 'standard' long battery packs at all?

- What else do I need to know to preparer myself for running the cyclone?

Geetoo

iTrader: (1)

It should have better drivetrain rotation with less friction i suppose.

sidewaysdriver6

i have my cyclone set up for drifting, it works very well, you can take a look at my setup here :
cyclone drifting setup

oh if you don't have an account on that forum you may not be able to see the post, but anyway here's the setup i used :

Setup for Cyclone (Standard/Surikarn/Hara Editions) :

Ground Types
Ground Type 1 : Unsheltered MSCP Concrete Ground (e.g. Serangoon MSCP Top Level, Simei MSCP Top Level etc.)
Ground Type 2 : Sheltered MSCP Concrete Ground & Void Deck (e.g. Bukit Batok MSCP, Serangoon & Simei MSCP 2nd Level etc.)

Electronics
Transmitter : Nomadio React
Receiver : Nomadio V2 Transceiver
Servo : Futaba S3050 Digital (High-Torque) Servo
ESC : Futaba MC330CR

Steering EPA - Left : 82%
Steering EPA - Right : 82%
Steering Dual Rate : 83%
Steering Exponential : -27%

Throttle EPA : 100%
Throttle Exponential : -10%

Brake EPA : 80%
Brake Exponential : -10%

Car (Cyclone) Front
Toe-out : Approx. 1.5 degrees (Pivot Block : 1.5 degrees)
Camber : 0 degrees
Castor : Stock
Ride Height : approx. 8.5-9.0mm (with battery on car)
Droop : 2mm
Ackerman : Stock
Shocks : Stock
Shock Mount Position - Top : 4th hole counting from centre of chassis
Shock Mount Position - Bottom : 1st hole counting from centre of chassis
Shock Springs : Yellow
Shock - Adjustable Gap : 7.5mm
Shock - Oil Weight : 0 (No Oil) (Just put a little shock oil around the O-ring where the metal shaft passes through in the shock)
Belt Tension : Groove on bearing holder faces the front
Version 3 Solid Axle
Universal Drive Shaft Set - use the steel dogbones, they're much more durable than the aluminum ones

Rear
Toe-out : 0 degrees
Camber : 0 degrees
Castor : Stock
Ride Height : approx. 8.5-9.0mm (with battery on car)
Droop : 2mm
Shocks : Stock
Shock Mount Position - Top : 2nd hole counting from centre of chassis
Shock Mount Position - Bottom : 2nd hole counting from centre of chassis
Shock Springs : Blue
Shock - Adjustable Gap : 5mm for Ground Type 1; 4mm for Ground Type 2
Shock - Oil Weight : 0 (No Oil) (Just put a little shock oil around the O-ring where the metal shaft passes through in the shock)
Belt Tension : Groove on bearing holder faces the back
Version 3 Solid Axle, with Non-universal regular steel dogbones and wheel axles

Wheels : PVC, with SGDrifters brand rims

Motor : Tamiya Super Stock TZ

Gearing : 96T Spur (Stock) and 40T Pinion : Gear Ratio is (96/40)x2.4375 = 5.85:1

Remarks :
NA

(note that this setup is using pvc tyres, running on reasonably smooth concrete ground)

the cyclone in the standard config only supports side by side battery packs. but i have modified the chassis a little to use stick packs (using the pro4 stick pack holders :


if you want i can post some closeup pics of what i did to have the stick pack there. it's pretty simple change.

Droopz

Yes please. I have heaps of stick packs that I really want to use on the Cyclone. Thanks for the setup guide too.

MARKANO

Differences between the following bodies??

1. Ride Accord B
2. Ride Stratus 3
3. Moore Mazda
4. Moore Stratus

omoser

IMHO the bodies have the following characteristics:

My favourite body. Lots of downforce both front and rear, easy to drive, high speed stability is ok. Use it on carpet and small/medium outdoor tracks. Also has an imprint so it's legal for use in races (depends on your rules).

If you are referring to MK3, it's good for large floating tracks. Tons of rear downforce, less steering than Accord. AFAIK no imprint.

Lots of steering, pretty aggressive body. Don't like it that much, go with the protoform Mazda's instead. I use it only at LRP/HPI challenge races.

Never tried this one, but according to some drivers at my club, easy to handle body with less downforce than Moorespeed Mazda. Good for large, floating tracks.

HTH

stephen hilton

leave all those and get a p f mazdaspeed6

cheehtae

iTrader: (15)

Has anyone has the same problem with their rear diff? it's kinda like not set or really press together.

Marcos.J

iTrader: (239)

the rear pulley will have a little play ( wable)

cheehtae

iTrader: (15)

TY, just on my other TC's it's really tight.

dodgeguy

iTrader: (208)

This is common with any ball diff. The balls suspened the diff gear. You do not want the diff gear/pully to rub on the rings. When the diff gear spins it will straighten out on its own. Now if the gear itself is not flat. That is a bad gear.

sidewaysdriver6

here's a list of the items you'd need to get :

1) P/N 73512 (hpi pro 4 stick pack holder), qty : 1 set
(this is a set of various parts, each marked with numbers. you'll only need the parts marked 4 (2pcs), 6(1pc), 7(2pcs) and 8(1pc) from this set. i'll refer to these as 73512-4, 73512-6, 73512-7 and 73512-8 respectively)

2) P/N Z082 (flat head screw m3 x 8mm), qty : 2

3) P/N Z352 (button head screw m3 x 8mm), qty : 4

4) P/N Z224 (washer m3 x 6mm), qty : 4

5) P/N Z305 (screw post m3 x 8mm), qty : 2

pics :

underside view


top view


top with battery clip view


steps :
1) cut out P/N 73512-7 (2pcs) from the set. dremel/file away the little "tooth" at the bottom of this part, so that it can sit flat.

2) attach the 2 pcs of P/N 73512-7 to the chassis, using P/N Z082 screws and using the existing unused holes along the centre line of the chassis, as in positions as shown in the "top view" pic.

Impt note : note the direction of the P/N 73512-7. this is the opposite way of how it's mounted on pro 4. this is to prevent the stick pack of getting in the way of the pinion and spur gear on the cyclone.

3) cut out P/N 73512-8 from the set.

4) put your stick pack on the chassis, and push the left side of the stick pack flush against the 2 pcs of P/N 73512-7 installed in step 2.

now place P/N 73512-8 flush against the right side of the stick pack, in the position as shown in the "top view" pic. mark out on the chassis the location of the 2 holes for mounting P/N 73512-8. the 2 holes must be located at a safe distance away from the side-by-side battery slots of the chassis.

5) remove the stick pack, remove P/N 73512-8, and drill the 2 holes marked out in step 4, using a 3mm diameter drill bit. make sure the bit is the type for drilling metal and is sharp (use a new drill bit if you can).

you'll need to clamp down/secure the chassis properly when drilling, to prevent any warpage of the chassis. i also use a vacuum and point it towards the drilling to suck away the cf dust.

along each hole (which will be very close to the side edge of the chassis), parallel to the battery slots, i use a needle file to file a slot from the side edge of the chassis, inwards towards the hole. this creates a "u-shaped" notch along the side edge of the chassis. this is to ease the positioning and mounting of P/N 73512-8 later on.

if you use CA glue to seal the edges of the cf chassis you'll probably want to seal these 2 notches too.

i'm not sure if the description of the notches make it hard to visualize, but i hope you can make out the 2 notches in the "underside view" pic above.

6) place the left side of the stick pack flush against the 2 pcs of P/N 73512-7, and then adjust and mount P/N 73512-8 using the P/N Z352 screws and P/N Z224 washers, as in the "underside view".

7) Cut out P/N 73512-6 and the 2 pcs of P/N 73512-4 from the set. dremel/file away the little "tooth" at the bottom of P/N 73512-4. screw in P/N Z305 screw posts into the 2pcs of P/N 73512-4, and then mount the 2 pcs of P/N 73512-4 onto the chassis using the existing slots in the chassis, and using P/N Z352 screws and P/N Z224 washers. with a stick pack on the chassis, adjust the positions of P/N 73512-4 until they hold P/N 73512-6 well, and then tighten the 2 pcs of P/N 73512-4 into location.

at the end of this you should see what you see in the "top view with battery clip" pic.

that's it! the above instructions may seem like quite a lot of work but it's actually a pretty simple straight-forward change. main thing is to be careful with the drilling. the disadvantage is that there will be 4 button head screws on the bottom of the chassis. but i have my ride height set pretty high and run on pretty smooth concrete ground so this isn't an issue for me. if you have access to machining equipment that can make accurate countersunk holes into a cf chassis that would be a great way to solve that.

anyway hth and good luck ! if you have any questions just post back.

Drcy

I need some help,

3Racing produces different central pulleys (16/17/18) for the Cyclone.
I bought the kit with this 3 different central pulleys, but :

1st - I only get the original 16T to fit with the Excel Belt???? Does somebody know how (or with which belt) I manage to change from 16T to 18T (does exist another belt for it)?????

2nd - Different pulleys means different ratio, in this case

2.4375 (std Cyclone internal ratio)
39/17 = 2.2941
39/18 = 2.1666

are different ratios related with the Track size??

means smaller track (more technical) requires smaller internal ratio???

thanks for any help in clarifying this

Pedro