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Old 10-14-2011, 07:39 PM
  #136  
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Originally Posted by syndr0me
What makes the chassis different? Mounting holes for the servo?
Its also narrowed up behind the front droop screws and in front of the rears.

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Old 10-14-2011, 07:40 PM
  #137  
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Originally Posted by yokemad
on 90% of the setups people using around 1mm+ shims on upper clamps Can I ask in which conditions we need to go Lower than L1-L2 Height?
Many Thanx
When running the low roll centers on the bulkheads you want to start with the upper links parallel with the arms. To do this you have to have the inside lower by .75-1mm.

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Old 10-14-2011, 08:35 PM
  #138  
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Old 10-14-2011, 08:41 PM
  #139  
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Really, the only thing that interests me is the top deck and chassis so I can turn the servo. I've got all the other bits on my '11 already.
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Old 10-14-2011, 09:21 PM
  #140  
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Originally Posted by syndr0me
Really, the only thing that interests me is the top deck and chassis so I can turn the servo. I've got all the other bits on my '11 already.
Sounds like all you need is a dremel and you are all set...
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Old 10-14-2011, 10:59 PM
  #141  
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Any idea how long until we will see the T3 2011 Spec R version? Soon I hope.
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Old 10-15-2011, 02:17 AM
  #142  
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Originally Posted by Fred Hubbard
Yeah I was hoping that they would have redesigned those in this kit to be lower but from the pic it looks like they are the same as when first releashed. I agree lowering them is definetely a must do.
I use the spec r clamps they have a much lower profile maybe 2mm lower they are just the ideal thing for my set up
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Old 10-15-2011, 03:05 AM
  #143  
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Originally Posted by Fred Hubbard
You confused me because you initially referred to all 4 positions (FF,FR, RF,RR) Yeah I saw the selection option for the rear but since the reason of going to the single blocks for the FR and RF was to strengthen the chassis I'm a bit skeptical that they would release an option that would circumvent that so I have to wonder if maybe that's an error on the sheet But maybe we will find out at some point
Yes I was wrong about FF!

Originally Posted by CraigM
The clamps aren't lower on the '12 are they? I always thought it was a bit dumb to make them so high in the first place
The clamps in the T3-12 have the same part number as the separately available ones, so I assume they are the same height.
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Old 10-15-2011, 05:39 AM
  #144  
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just checked the manual upper clamps are 1mm lower than what they've sold us as an option...
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Old 10-15-2011, 06:35 AM
  #145  
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Originally Posted by yokemad
just checked the manual upper clamps are 1mm lower than what they've sold us as an option...
WHere does it say that?
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Old 10-15-2011, 06:38 AM
  #146  
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Originally Posted by yokemad
just checked the manual upper clamps are 1mm lower than what they've sold us as an option...
Where in the manual does it say that? They have the same part number as the optional parts.
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Old 10-15-2011, 06:48 AM
  #147  
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They say put 1mm shim under inner camber links and front otherside same 1mm and rear 4mm shims like L1-L2 arrangement
I might be wrong but I guess 1mm lower ...
I hope that make sense
Cheers

Last edited by yokemad; 10-15-2011 at 07:05 AM.
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Old 10-15-2011, 06:52 AM
  #148  
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Right, we need someone to; hurry up and get their kit, then measure the clamps for us
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Old 10-15-2011, 06:52 AM
  #149  
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Originally Posted by yokemad
just checked the manual upper clamps are 1mm lower than what they've sold us as an option...
Originally Posted by Skiddins
WHere does it say that?
The exploded view lists the upper clamps as 302028-O.
Same # = same part.
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Old 10-15-2011, 07:04 AM
  #150  
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possible ,they may want people start with h1-h2 height...
,I was thinking if we add some height to inner camber link we should also add some to outside...
extra 1mm over C hub and 1mm over rear upright is the recommended by Martin Hudy.
they might made a mistake there :/
well we should ask that on xray forums...

Last edited by yokemad; 10-15-2011 at 07:22 AM.
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