SteveM

iTrader: (165)

There are only two versions; the TC4 tub version and the Factory Team TC4 graphite chassis. The TC4 Club Racer is the same as the original TC4 but now comes factory built with front spool instead of the original ball diff.

killeraxemannic

iTrader: (1)

I think the original TC4 came with a front diff where as the club racer version now comes with a spool.

anr211

iTrader: (11)

The biggest problem with the short front links is it makes the car very prone to traction rolling because it makes entry steering very abrupt. It also reduces mid to exit steering quite a bit.

gooba

iTrader: (5)

There was also a team kit that I believe came with the cabon(not carbon fiber)chassis parts and some of the aluminum upgrades.

RotorTruck

iTrader: (2)

Oh, that would be two deal breakers. Thanks for letting me know!

tc4basher

Can anybody tell me the part # for the front spool that comes with the tc4 club racers?

tc4basher

Found it. It's team associated part # 1703.

RotorTruck

iTrader: (2)

Front Caster Blocks. I removed some 0 degree ones from the car, and have some new 4 degree ones here. I can't tell the difference by looking at them.

Can the Caster Blocks be installed on either side, or is one specifically for the left side, and other only for the right side?

scirocco14

iTrader: (5)

One is left and one is right. They should lean 'back' when installed.

Mark

turtlehill

Put the hinge pin in and hold the block straight up. If you look at the hinge pin, one end will be lower than the other. That's the front. If in doubt hold both blocks side by side with the hinge pins in. You should be able to see the difference.

RotorTruck

iTrader: (2)

Figured it out, thanks guys. Here's a picture for reference. 4* Caster on left, 0* on right. I was expecting the top of it to be pushed rearward, but instead they just changed the angle of the lower pin hole. Cheaper easier solution.

I was surprised how worn the lower pin hole was on my club 0*. How often do these need to be replaced? I had to use a drop of Tri-Flow and needle nose pliers to push the pin into the new one. Old one slid in no prob by hand and has slop. Have 5 race weekends on asphalt plus about 12 packs of practice on a tennis court.

PIIHB!

iTrader: (14)

I raced my tc4 last night for the first time. I qualified 4th in the A-main and due to my inexperience I broke my steering rack in half. I ordered the aluminum rack and was thinking of running that with the bolt tightened down and a regular servo saver on the servo.

PIIHB!

iTrader: (14)

Another issue I had is the horrendous chattering in the front end. Since the jrxs cva's are non existent is there a solution? I run a front diff set tight. Should I run it loose?

bertrandsv87

iTrader: (2)

Honestly, I would rather ream a bunch of front hubs to 10mm, so I can use 5x10mm bearings and any other brand DCJ drives.... The chatter is that annoying!!!
Mcmastercarr sells hand reamers in all sizes that can get the job done....
Now Associated should release a few 10mm hubs to help the situation, or come out with their own tc4 DCJ drives...

gooba

iTrader: (5)

You shouldn't have excessive chatter with a diff unless you have it cranked way tight. your always going to have a little chatter with the stock cvds but if u back your steering endpoint off just a hair it will help. With slower motors(vta,usgt,and stock) I don't even notice the chatter. Highend mod power yeah its there but not excessively.(at least for me)