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Old 06-13-2014, 08:02 PM
  #12646  
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Originally Posted by nf_ekt


Yeah no problem... if I ran 17.5 I would have kept it. Knew it was a screamer when I gave it the pre-shipping test.
what happened to the Rctech website ??? Bring back the old website please...
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Old 06-13-2014, 08:48 PM
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Originally Posted by bertrandsv87
what happened to the Rctech website ??? Bring back the old website please...
Arrow now points at Raving. A drop of one level on the SLCN!!!
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Old 06-14-2014, 03:48 PM
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Holy crap this thread gets off topic. So back on topic. Front spool guys since the losi lcds are no more are u guys just dealing with chatter or are you doing something else? In my 17.5 car I just went back to a ball diff but I'm building a new usgt car and being a club racer its got a spool. I'd like to run it but I can't do chatter and I really don't want to retrofit and modify a whole bunch of other brand parts
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Old 06-14-2014, 04:01 PM
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Originally Posted by gooba
Holy crap this thread gets off topic. So back on topic. Front spool guys since the losi lcds are no more are u guys just dealing with chatter or are you doing something else? In my 17.5 car I just went back to a ball diff but I'm building a new usgt car and being a club racer its got a spool. I'd like to run it but I can't do chatter and I really don't want to retrofit and modify a whole bunch of other brand parts
Then maybe go with the tight front diff, if you are looking for the quickest way to get around chatter.
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Old 06-14-2014, 08:23 PM
  #12650  
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I always run a slip spool in my Tc3&4
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Old 06-14-2014, 10:33 PM
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The chatter is due to the fact that what manufacturers call CVD joints actually aren't. If you can set up the car to use less steering throw it will reduce the chatter, but it can't be eliminated.
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Old 06-14-2014, 10:38 PM
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Originally Posted by moparSRT
I always run a slip spool in my Tc3&4
Hey guys, you can always buy tamiya or any other Car's dcj and machine it down from 5mm to 3/8”... It's easy to use a drill and sand paper to get rid of 0.25mm....
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Old 06-14-2014, 10:41 PM
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[QUOTE=bertrandsv87;13336481]Hey guys, you can always buy tamiya or any other Car's dcj and machine it down from 5mm to 3/16”... It's easy to use a drill and sand paper to get rid of 0.25mm... Ok, now let's get creative...
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Old 06-15-2014, 04:32 AM
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Anybody know the part number for the losi lcd ?
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Old 06-15-2014, 07:18 AM
  #12655  
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Originally Posted by disaac
Anybody know the part number for the losi lcd ?
Losi lcd part#: Losa3344....I hope losi makes more of those soon ...
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Old 06-15-2014, 07:26 AM
  #12656  
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Originally Posted by bertrandsv87
Losi lcd part#: Losa3344....I hope losi makes more of those soon ...
If you can't find those AE part#2402 Uni drive assembly is suppose to be a direct fit and very durable. I have some but never tested them because the aluminum cvd didn't go yet. Have any one else tested the Uni drive assembly yet?
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Old 06-16-2014, 11:30 AM
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What's tha advantage of the uni drive? Looks like a regular cvd to me
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Old 06-16-2014, 11:36 AM
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Originally Posted by gooba
What's tha advantage of the uni drive? Looks like a regular cvd to me
it is a standard CVD/CVA, but unlike the plastic and aluminum versions, #2402 is all steel and will last a VERY long time with a spool.
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Old 06-16-2014, 11:44 AM
  #12659  
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Mopar,
How did you decide how tight to run your slipper spool?
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Old 06-16-2014, 11:51 AM
  #12660  
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Originally Posted by NutDriver
Mopar,
How did you decide how tight to run your slipper spool?
locktite on thrust screw and tighten until spring is fully compressed
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