jdeadman

iTrader: (41)

I'm moving back to the Front Diff from the Slipper Spool I currently have installed

bertrandsv87

iTrader: (2)

Now that your tc4 handles well, the front diff won't hurt....

DesertRat

iTrader: (2)

You might get away with it on high grip. But to apply a little oval racing experience, make sure that inside front tire is on the ground at all times or the car will badly diff out under power. You may need more droop to keep that from happening.

Sorry about there being no cardon joints available. There just aren't any left.

rc-demon

Hi guys,

Having a little issue at my local track with a certain corner. Its a long curve that goes into a straight, so we pickup speed in that curve. When i hit the sharper end of it where it goes into the straight the cars back end will slip out and i fight to correct the car and sometimes end up doing fishtails.

Any ideas?

Thx

rc-demon

Hi guys,

Having a little issue at my local track with a certain corner. Its a long curve that goes into a straight, so we pickup speed in that curve. When i hit the sharper end of it where it goes into the straight the cars back end will slip out and i fight to correct the car and sometimes end up doing fishtails.

Any ideas?

Thx

bertrandsv87

iTrader: (2)

The tc4 performed well at 3.4375FDR with no heat issue at all, and pulling other cars down the straight... Yes the rear has a tendency to lose traction, but it can be solved with at least 2.5mm of rear droop, very low(1mm) front droop, and putting most of the weight on the rear..... I will be putting the car on a 70gram diet with side to side balancing, no tweak, and lower CG by having all the electronics on the chassis, and cutting off the excess aluminum on the motor clamp.... It looks pretty promising for the tc4....

rc-demon

thanks for the suggestions. I will check my droop settings and try that.

I am currently still running the stock shocks, so i will have a set of coilover shocks in a week or 2 and will be using shock oil 35 front and 30 rear.

Racer X79

iTrader: (31)

First check your base set up to make sure nothing is uneven or moved (rear camber, rear toe, ride height, etc..)

If everything looks good, here are things to try for on power loose...
Smaller rear sway bar or remove rear sway bar
Lower rear roll center(raise inner camber links)
Move top of rear shocks in
Increase front droop (.5mm-1mm)
Softer rear shock oil
Softer rear springs

Racer X79

iTrader: (31)

Increasing rear droop and decreasing front droop transfers more weight to the front tires equaling more steering and less rear traction.....

You want your weight to be as even as possible front to rear and side to side.

gooba

iTrader: (5)

It sounds to me that you feed a little steering into the car thru the curve and then a lot coming onto the straight essentially whipping the car. If this is so is there possibly a different line you can take to make it smoother so you dont whip the rear end? Also if your car works well on the rest of the track i wouldnt change to many settings as setting up a car based on one corner can make it not work elsewhere. Me personally if it wasnt to hard on the tires and my car worked everywhere else i'd let my car drift a bit and steer with the throttle

bertrandsv87

iTrader: (2)

That's what I use to think, but the opposite proved to be true... Jdeadman also experienced the same.... Also, sauce only the rear tires ...

rc-demon

Yup im pretty much like that, i have no sway bars, getting them tomorrow.

Shocks and oil i will settle that shortly too, exactly what i was thinking.

rc-demon

yeah turning while accelerating (its a long turning U) and picking up speed before it goes into the straight, its a tricky transition as its got a sharper turn at the end where it becomes straight and thats where i loose backend.

What i have learned from it is to accelerate slower and consistent and then punch it when im straight. or i just let off throttle in that last curve.

Yes car works rather well rest of track, it still needs more tweaking.

jdeadman

iTrader: (41)

I have been playing with shock angle and Try standing up the rear shock one hole. Sounds counter but seemed to tame down my rear end

Also lower roll centers with thicker oil but larger holes can help slow the rolling action

gooba

iTrader: (5)

@jdeadman. Standing the shock up one makes perfect sense as it would make the shock less progressive. Im not sure I follow the oil theory though. Wouldn't thicker oil and bigger holes be the same as thinner oil and smaller holes? btw I'm not trying to say your wrong in anyway I just don't understand