Team Associated TC4
Tech Regular
iTrader: (1)
Okay. Still trying to figure out gear ratios and what not. It seems the one listed in the manual, are for older brushed motors. I'd like to be at about 4.10 FDR or so for a 17.5T brushless motor. The car comes with a 72T spur. To get to that FDR, I'd need a pinion that is way too big to fit. I can't seem to find a 48 pitch spur smaller than 69 teeth. Even then, I'd need a spur that's too big. Do you guys use 64P spurs? What am I missing here?
Okay. Still trying to figure out gear ratios and what not. It seems the one listed in the manual, are for older brushed motors. I'd like to be at about 4.10 FDR or so for a 17.5T brushless motor. The car comes with a 72T spur. To get to that FDR, I'd need a pinion that is way too big to fit. I can't seem to find a 48 pitch spur smaller than 69 teeth. Even then, I'd need a spur that's too big. Do you guys use 64P spurs? What am I missing here?
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Hope that helps.
*EDIT* Sorry I misread your 4.1FDR, I was just trying to give you an idea because I use a 60T spur.
You can get a 48P 55T spur and a 48P 33T pinion to achieve 4.125 FDR.
Last edited by ChrisNRG; 01-08-2013 at 08:51 PM. Reason: More info.
Tech Regular
iTrader: (1)
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Hope that helps.
*EDIT* Sorry I read your 4.1FDR
You can get a 48P 55T spur and a 48P 33T pinion to achieve 4.125 FDR.
You only need two screws to hold the spur gear !
Tech Master
iTrader: (5)
As Bertrand said you only need 2 holes to mount 60t spur. I use 48p since I race mostly on prepped asphalt in the summer and the little bits of sand don't get caught up as much as in a 64p. One of the main reasons I like the AE shaft car is sealed diffs and shaft drive, not near as much maintenance as belt drive open diffs cars. Its much easier to pick out a little stone out a 48p gear with an Xacto knife.
Check out the Robinson racing site, 48p or 64p, Spurs. The outer ring of holes is for diff balls, which you dont need. If you remove the factory spur and install the 60T spur 2 or 3 of the inner circle holes should line up with the existing bolt holes. On my TC3 , 2 holes line up. By installing the 60T spur, All that needs to be removed from the chassis is the small web directly below the pinion. No grinding on the motor mount or cam is necessary. Now I'm going to see if it works on the TC4. My TC3 with the IRS graphite chassis is ready to go.I havent tried it since I installed the graphite IRS chassis. Gotta build the Tubbie TC4 as I want to try 2 cars when I go to Calgary in a couple of weeks.
Be
TJ
Check out the Robinson racing site, 48p or 64p, Spurs. The outer ring of holes is for diff balls, which you dont need. If you remove the factory spur and install the 60T spur 2 or 3 of the inner circle holes should line up with the existing bolt holes. On my TC3 , 2 holes line up. By installing the 60T spur, All that needs to be removed from the chassis is the small web directly below the pinion. No grinding on the motor mount or cam is necessary. Now I'm going to see if it works on the TC4. My TC3 with the IRS graphite chassis is ready to go.I havent tried it since I installed the graphite IRS chassis. Gotta build the Tubbie TC4 as I want to try 2 cars when I go to Calgary in a couple of weeks.
Be
TJ
Tech Regular
iTrader: (1)
You know, it never occurred to me that I could just use two screws. Hopefully, my LHS has them in stock. I prefer 48P as well for the same reasons. Durability and reliability are important to me. Anyways, hopefully I can find one here in town. Otherwise, I guess I'm ordering online! Thanks for the common sense answer!
Tech Regular
iTrader: (1)
Also, I got the TC4 going tonight since all of my motor and speed control came in. I currently have a 72T spur and 28T pinion for a 6.42 FDR. I can only drive it in my living room since there is too much snow outside. But this thing is nice and smooth! I bought it used from a guy on this forum. It seems pretty quick with the current gear ratio. I doubt it will have the same top end my TC6.1 does with the 4.05 FDR, but my son will be driving the TC4. The lack of top end might not be a bad thing for starting out, I guess.
Just curious...what's the weight of some of your guys' TC4s in race trim for 17.5T?
Tech Regular
iTrader: (1)
My TC6.1 with the same exact setup plus a glitch buster and low profile Savox 1251MG servo instead of Futaba, is 2lb 12.5oz.
Not a 17.5, but my vta tc4 weighs 1580 grams with no weight added.
Hello fellow tc4 owners.
I have some questions regarding the tc3 and tc4. A friend of mine gave me his old tc3 so I rebuilt it, cleaned up everything, new bearings and new electronics were dropped in. most likely this will be my vta car. So as I been looking to get some parts and spares I was looking for suggestions.
I bought a set of tc4 arms locally thinking they fit but the hinges fit loose. If I get the tc4 arms, hinges and the tc4 ft allow hinge/arm holder fit?
What are the major difference between them two and will my tc6 axles and dog bones bolt up if I want to swap to them? Was thinking about ordering a set instead of the allow ones and use regular 4mm hexes and wheel nuts.
I posted the above under tc3 as well. Thanks
I have some questions regarding the tc3 and tc4. A friend of mine gave me his old tc3 so I rebuilt it, cleaned up everything, new bearings and new electronics were dropped in. most likely this will be my vta car. So as I been looking to get some parts and spares I was looking for suggestions.
I bought a set of tc4 arms locally thinking they fit but the hinges fit loose. If I get the tc4 arms, hinges and the tc4 ft allow hinge/arm holder fit?
What are the major difference between them two and will my tc6 axles and dog bones bolt up if I want to swap to them? Was thinking about ordering a set instead of the allow ones and use regular 4mm hexes and wheel nuts.
I posted the above under tc3 as well. Thanks
Most tc3 racers on the tc3 forum will be able to assist you on the swaps, but it'll be hard to find tc4 racers that put their parts on tc3's...