bertrandsv87

iTrader: (2)

I think you can go faster than 81mph just by switching to a better battery pack and pro charger: thunderpower, EAM pack, Orca pack, etc,... Thunderpower charger, Icharger, etc...

THEBIGBULL

iTrader: (5)

SPEED=Cubic Dollars

bertrandsv87

iTrader: (2)

EVERYTHING=CUBIC DOLLARS......ahahah....

boudin4evr

iTrader: (18)

SO RIGHT

DesertRat

iTrader: (2)

RC racing is not that expensive. I could build a competitive touring car rolling on the track for $500. I dare you to go golfing for that.

moparSRT

maybe back in 1998 lol,
today expect to spend $500 on the chassis then another $500 to get it on the track

DesertRat

iTrader: (2)

Being fast was more expensive in 1998. Just imagine forking over $600 for just four six-cell NiCd packs that you could only use once a day. You now have a practice pack, two qualifiers, and a main pack. Lipo and brushless is the cheapest racing I have ever done. Sure, you can still go nuts, but you can get into your Local Hobbyshop winner circle for a lot less money in straight hardware than you could before the tech revolution.

That actually would be a cool class for racing, a bit like Box Stock Mini where the whole car can only cost $500. Lots of older kits, Sakura Zero's and TC4's.

gooba

iTrader: (5)

I have to agree with desert rat a Sakura or tc4 is very competitive on the club level. I'm sorry I dont care what anyone says money can't buy talent I've seen too many super expensive setups get spanked by lowend cars with better drivers. I'm no volker or hagberg but I've shown several X-rays the back end of my tc4

bertrandsv87

iTrader: (2)

I am hoping my new tc4 build will yield the same results in 17.5t blinky... I only want to make the Amain most of time I get to race...

tc4basher

Yeah definitely. I currently only have the 1 Zippy 3s battery. I only use it really for speed runs. 95% of the time i'm just bashing on 2s. I'll eventually get a better 3s and with more gearing changes and a more aerodynamic body, I hope to get my TC4 closer to 100 mph!

rhamer

Hey guys Im looking for some tips on getting rid of some slop from my TC4.
I have all the carbon arms/tub etc.
I have front alloy CVD shafts and front oneway diff, rear are still composite as they hold up fine and are light/cheap.
I have the VCS2 shocks.

Its been a great chassis to get back into RC racing and am now at the point where I want to focus on winning races. I have ordered a few bits like RPM ball cups. but was wondering if anyone has some tips to get play out of the arms steering blocks and hubs etc./

bertrandsv87

iTrader: (2)

Rpm ballcups is a good start, but I would not try to go far because of binding, specially with the steering rack. Make sure everything is free with minimal play, and then leave it alone. Make sure you tweak your swaybars, measure the length of your shocks, and use four scales on each corner of the car to balance/tweak... After that, it will all be in the hands of the driver......

rhamer

Thanks for the tips, but what is the actually process on removing the slop is there a tiny spacer kit or something?

gooba

iTrader: (5)

Factory team hinge pins will help a little with slop also make sure all the suspension washers are in place. They are easy to lose and will let your arms move around if their gone.

bertrandsv87

iTrader: (2)

I used a few 3mm spacers on the steering rack screws, but they were not part of any shim kit... It's really up to the racer to shim where necessary until stuff binds, and then backoff enough to allow for the correct amount of play(0.1mm or so)... Every tc4 is different as far as play is concerned, and should be shimmed uniquely.... The hinge pin play is something I never messed with...