300LikesTeam Associated TC4
09-05-2014, 01:24 PM
Any thoughts on the slipper/spool arrangement using TC5 slipper pads in the TC4 front diff?
09-05-2014, 02:23 PM
When I made my car a slipper spool, I added a very thin copper shim I had collected from another project to make the diff the same width it had been with diff balls in it. I then just replaced the thrust assembly with a few washers, and threaded it all back together. The slipper action in my car is diff rings sliding against the plastic of the ring gear, which is still supported by its bearing. No failures or need for adjustment so far.
09-05-2014, 06:52 PM
Thanks for the explanation. I had read that someone had put the slipper pads in as a replacement for the diff rings, but I don't recall mention of the diff balls. I agree that the slipper rings seem thick for the application.
So your slipper spool is direct contact between the diff rings and the plastic of the ring gear? I had assumed that this would wear out the plastic of the ring gear where the diff rings contacted it. Thanks for sharing.
So your slipper spool is direct contact between the diff rings and the plastic of the ring gear? I had assumed that this would wear out the plastic of the ring gear where the diff rings contacted it. Thanks for sharing.
09-05-2014, 08:10 PM
Thanks for the explanation. I had read that someone had put the slipper pads in as a replacement for the diff rings, but I don't recall mention of the diff balls. I agree that the slipper rings seem thick for the application.
So your slipper spool is direct contact between the diff rings and the plastic of the ring gear? I had assumed that this would wear out the plastic of the ring gear where the diff rings contacted it. Thanks for sharing.
So your slipper spool is direct contact between the diff rings and the plastic of the ring gear? I had assumed that this would wear out the plastic of the ring gear where the diff rings contacted it. Thanks for sharing.
I don't worry about the ring gear much, i figured the rest of the car would wear out first.
09-10-2014, 08:32 AM
who makes aftermarket cvd's like the LOSI3344
what is the difference in the LOSI3344 and the 3333
what is the difference in the LOSI3344 and the 3333
09-10-2014, 08:33 AM
double post somehow
09-10-2014, 01:03 PM
You occasionally get lucky on eBay or somewhere online but drive line parts get used up, especially when running a spool. I run slipper spool specifically to make sure I don't KO some nearly irreplaceable drives in one hit. Learned that lesson the hard way.
09-10-2014, 01:41 PM
Slipper spool how to, made one up myself a few years back and it worked a treat.
For you guys with plenty of AE parts laying around... try this out. The only thing you will likely have to buy are the Tc5 slipper spool pads, and mod them to 0.83mm thickness. Just place the pad on one outdrive, and thin each pad out on some 400 grit sandpaper in a figure 8 motion. The pads cut quick, so measure frequently... thickness is crucial.
Ive been using a slipper spool in the front of my Tc3/4 for months now. You build it as you would a normal steel diff, but you use regular steel outdrives (not lightweight), remove the large diff balls, and reassemble the diff with the modded Tc5 pads in place of the diff rings, using two plastic diff bushings in the middle of the assembly.
Make sure you clean the diff gear, pads, and outdrives well. Any diff grease or oil will lessen the slipper spools effect.
Take some time to properly adjust it, as the pads will form to the holes in the diff gear and 'lock' in place. You want it tight enough to be difficult to turn the outdrives, but not impossible.
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Since then i have changed the 'design' of the front slipper spool. Before, one CVD and axle would wear faster than the other. The one that wore faster was on the side that was 'locked' to the diff outdrive with the T-nut.
Now, both steel diff halves slip independently of the diff bolt/thrust assembly AND the diff gear.
*legend*
Modded T-nut= MT-N
Thrust washer= TW
Thrust balls= TB(12)
B4 steering rack bushing= BUSH
AE diff bolt= ADB
Long outdrive= LO
Short outdrive= SO
*assembly order*
MT-N/TW/BUSH/TW/TB(6)/TW-> LO (pad/gear/pad) SO <- TW/TB(6)/TW/ADB
My T-nut has the ears cut off... and a small hole drilled to allow a hingepin pushing tool to slide into it and lock with the slots in the outdrive for adjustment. You could just as easily slot the plastic down to the metal insert and use a flatblade screwdriver. Proper adjustment will have the diff bolt flush with the metal insert in the T-nut.
Im gonna track down pix now...
Originally Posted by DaveW
For you guys with plenty of AE parts laying around... try this out. The only thing you will likely have to buy are the Tc5 slipper spool pads, and mod them to 0.83mm thickness. Just place the pad on one outdrive, and thin each pad out on some 400 grit sandpaper in a figure 8 motion. The pads cut quick, so measure frequently... thickness is crucial.
Ive been using a slipper spool in the front of my Tc3/4 for months now. You build it as you would a normal steel diff, but you use regular steel outdrives (not lightweight), remove the large diff balls, and reassemble the diff with the modded Tc5 pads in place of the diff rings, using two plastic diff bushings in the middle of the assembly.
Make sure you clean the diff gear, pads, and outdrives well. Any diff grease or oil will lessen the slipper spools effect.
Take some time to properly adjust it, as the pads will form to the holes in the diff gear and 'lock' in place. You want it tight enough to be difficult to turn the outdrives, but not impossible.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Since then i have changed the 'design' of the front slipper spool. Before, one CVD and axle would wear faster than the other. The one that wore faster was on the side that was 'locked' to the diff outdrive with the T-nut.
Now, both steel diff halves slip independently of the diff bolt/thrust assembly AND the diff gear.
*legend*
Modded T-nut= MT-N
Thrust washer= TW
Thrust balls= TB(12)
B4 steering rack bushing= BUSH
AE diff bolt= ADB
Long outdrive= LO
Short outdrive= SO
*assembly order*
MT-N/TW/BUSH/TW/TB(6)/TW-> LO (pad/gear/pad) SO <- TW/TB(6)/TW/ADB
My T-nut has the ears cut off... and a small hole drilled to allow a hingepin pushing tool to slide into it and lock with the slots in the outdrive for adjustment. You could just as easily slot the plastic down to the metal insert and use a flatblade screwdriver. Proper adjustment will have the diff bolt flush with the metal insert in the T-nut.
Im gonna track down pix now...
09-10-2014, 02:13 PM
Transmission Question
Has anybody ever heard of a company that makes gears to change the TC 4 transmission from 2.5:1 to 2.0:1 Thanks
09-11-2014, 11:28 AM
will just the straight part of the steering rack from ntc3 fit directly on TC4?
every time I let friends drive my car, they break the rack!
anybody makes a better one or not as stiff/brittle as the carbon part?
every time I let friends drive my car, they break the rack!
anybody makes a better one or not as stiff/brittle as the carbon part?
09-12-2014, 01:19 AM
Tech Initiate
Boudi4evr, a Servo Saver will help to keep big impacts away, also from the steering rack.
I never broke a rack since a have a saver installed.
I never broke a rack since a have a saver installed.
09-16-2014, 10:24 AM
Tech Regular
iTrader: (41)
09-21-2014, 11:39 PM
Tech Addict
My TC4
Hello RCTECH!
I've been browsing this sight here and there for a few months and decided to register. Here is my TC4 club racer. I've had it for a few months now and use it for mostly street bashing with the occasional speed runs. Fastest MPH so far is 81 MPH on a lil baby Zippy 3000MAH 20c 3s. I usually just use 2s.
MODS:
Castle SV3 esc
Castle 7700kv
Robinson Racing 60T spur/30T Pinion
Spektrum 6070 servo
Skyfly reciever and remote
Factory team fan/duct kit w/ upgraded yeah racing tornado fans
Tornado fan on the esc
God racing high RPM fan on the motor heatsink
Custom Ram Air Ducts to the fans lol
Associated silver springs
Factory Team sway bars
RPM ball caps
MIP shiny steel cvd bones
Steel rear outdrives
I love my TC4!!! Haha....Let me know what you guys think!!
I've been browsing this sight here and there for a few months and decided to register. Here is my TC4 club racer. I've had it for a few months now and use it for mostly street bashing with the occasional speed runs. Fastest MPH so far is 81 MPH on a lil baby Zippy 3000MAH 20c 3s. I usually just use 2s.
MODS:
Castle SV3 esc
Castle 7700kv
Robinson Racing 60T spur/30T Pinion
Spektrum 6070 servo
Skyfly reciever and remote
Factory team fan/duct kit w/ upgraded yeah racing tornado fans
Tornado fan on the esc
God racing high RPM fan on the motor heatsink
Custom Ram Air Ducts to the fans lol
Associated silver springs
Factory Team sway bars
RPM ball caps
MIP shiny steel cvd bones
Steel rear outdrives
I love my TC4!!! Haha....Let me know what you guys think!!
Last edited by tc4basher; 09-21-2014 at 11:40 PM. Reason: need to add
09-22-2014, 11:14 AM
It's good to see you reach 81mph with your setup, but 5.0 fdr with a 7700kv motor is putting a lot of stress on your electronics, eventhough it is used for speed runs... Otherwise, welcome to the tc4 forum.....
Hello RCTECH!
I've been browsing this sight here and there for a few months and decided to register. Here is my TC4 club racer. I've had it for a few months now and use it for mostly street bashing with the occasional speed runs. Fastest MPH so far is 81 MPH on a lil baby Zippy 3000MAH 20c 3s. I usually just use 2s.
MODS:
Castle SV3 esc
Castle 7700kv
Robinson Racing 60T spur/30T Pinion
Spektrum 6070 servo
Skyfly reciever and remote
Factory team fan/duct kit w/ upgraded yeah racing tornado fans
Tornado fan on the esc
God racing high RPM fan on the motor heatsink
Custom Ram Air Ducts to the fans lol
Associated silver springs
Factory Team sway bars
RPM ball caps
MIP shiny steel cvd bones
Steel rear outdrives
I love my TC4!!! Haha....Let me know what you guys think!!
I've been browsing this sight here and there for a few months and decided to register. Here is my TC4 club racer. I've had it for a few months now and use it for mostly street bashing with the occasional speed runs. Fastest MPH so far is 81 MPH on a lil baby Zippy 3000MAH 20c 3s. I usually just use 2s.
MODS:
Castle SV3 esc
Castle 7700kv
Robinson Racing 60T spur/30T Pinion
Spektrum 6070 servo
Skyfly reciever and remote
Factory team fan/duct kit w/ upgraded yeah racing tornado fans
Tornado fan on the esc
God racing high RPM fan on the motor heatsink
Custom Ram Air Ducts to the fans lol
Associated silver springs
Factory Team sway bars
RPM ball caps
MIP shiny steel cvd bones
Steel rear outdrives
I love my TC4!!! Haha....Let me know what you guys think!!
09-22-2014, 06:15 PM
Tech Addict
The motor definitely gets hot kinda fast with my 5.0 fdr. I usually have to let it sit and cool with the fans on after about 10-15 mins of bashing. I check my temps at least every 5 mins and it almost never goes into thermal shutdown.
I worked my way up to the current pinion/spur combo slowly. Started with 66t spur/27t pinion, then went 28t, 30t , 31t pinion. After that I swapped to the current 60t spur 30t pinion combo. Honestly, the difference in heat throughout all these changes was pretty minimal.