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Old 05-09-2011, 08:26 AM
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Originally Posted by ChrisP
I've simply gone to using a 2.0mm ball end driver for the rear motor screw.
Which brand driver are using?
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Old 05-09-2011, 08:35 AM
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Originally Posted by M-Technic
Does anybody have a good source for ceramic diff balls and thrust bearings for the Xray diff? Within the United States, preferably.

The diff balls are 2.4mm and the thrust is 3x8x3.5mm.

Thanks!
Xray makes some. RCAmerica may have them in stock. or Nexusracing.net

EA
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Old 05-09-2011, 09:00 AM
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Originally Posted by M-Technic
Does anybody have a good source for ceramic diff balls and thrust bearings for the Xray diff? Within the United States, preferably.

The diff balls are 2.4mm and the thrust is 3x8x3.5mm.

Thanks!
Ya what EA said and here is another option. Here you go
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Old 05-09-2011, 10:59 AM
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Does anyone have good pictures and directions on what they are doing to the nt1 diff to make it work in the t3?
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Old 05-09-2011, 11:03 AM
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Originally Posted by bgrick
Does anyone have good pictures and directions on what they are doing to the nt1 diff to make it work in the t3?

ygpm
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Old 05-09-2011, 11:13 AM
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Originally Posted by bgrick
Does anyone have good pictures and directions on what they are doing to the nt1 diff to make it work in the t3?
why would you want to modify a NT1 diff when you can buy a SpecR diff ?? are they better/differant feeling in the car ???
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Old 05-09-2011, 11:19 AM
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Originally Posted by sidecarphil1
why would you want to modify a NT1 diff when you can buy a SpecR diff ?? are they better/differant feeling in the car ???
YES!!!
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Old 05-09-2011, 11:24 AM
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Originally Posted by Steve Weiss
When under power the drive shafts bind in the diff outdrives a bit and have a tendancy to want to impart a torque that forces the suspension to flatten out a bit... A longer drive shaft tends to bind more, impart torque, and resist roll more... In essence limiting roll somewhat like a roll bar.
What does "impart torque" mean?
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Old 05-09-2011, 11:25 AM
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Originally Posted by EAMotorsports
Xray makes some. RCAmerica may have them in stock. or Nexusracing.net

EA
Originally Posted by Fred Hubbard
Ya what EA said and here is another option. Here you go
Thank you guys!
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Old 05-09-2011, 11:33 AM
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Originally Posted by Fred Hubbard
YES!!!
Yes what .......

in what way is it better ??
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Old 05-09-2011, 11:35 AM
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Originally Posted by sidecarphil1
Yes what .......

in what way is it better ??
Well there was only one part of your question that yes would apply to
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Old 05-09-2011, 11:41 AM
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Originally Posted by RSCosworth
What does "impart torque" mean?
It means that it is causing a force on the suspension... either forcing it to compress or uncompress depending on it's position... "ever action has an equal and opposite reaction" ? The drive shaft is acting on the suspension, the suspension is acting on the drive shaft.

Essentially, the drive shaft "wants" to run straight and it can contribute a force that will keep the suspension from moving... similiar to the way that sweep in the pins or antisquat/prosquat cause the suspension to bind in certain situations.
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Old 05-09-2011, 11:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Fred Hubbard
Well there was only one part of your question that yes would apply to
ok i am not talking in code

Thanks for nothing , i will stay with my SpecR diffs then !!!!
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Old 05-09-2011, 12:14 PM
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Called Patrick at RCAmerica and they do carry the ceramic diff balls and thrust bearing. Here are the Xray part numbers if anybody else needs them:

93 0220 2.4mm ceramic diff balls (12)
93 0238 3x8x3.5mm ceramic thrust bearing

Don't know why I didn't think of checking with RCAmerica first, they always have what I need in stock.
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Old 05-09-2011, 01:16 PM
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Originally Posted by sidecarphil1
ok i am not talking in code

Thanks for nothing , i will stay with my SpecR diffs then !!!!
Hey Phil,

Regarding the comparison between the converted NT1 and spec R gear diff:

I have run both, and I do believe that the NT1 conversion is better for the following reasons: much higher quality finish/parts fit, smoother intial build and subsequent consistant action after breaking in, less tendancy of leaking.

The spec r costs less and is more of a "finished product" ... the conversion costs quite a bit more and will take some careful hand finishing of parts.

So, if you like dremeling/hand finishing parts, and the cost isn't prohibbitive for you, I'd say the nt1 conversion is a good direction to go... if you just want something cheap and easy to just drop in your car and go ... go with the Spec R.

If you have any more specific questions feel free to let me know!
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