pcar951

iTrader: (23)

I run my TC6's with a little slop in the arms all the time with no problem, I just tighten them up now and then. Hinge pin mounts on my Xray's and Photon used to do the same thing. I'm using pan car bulkhead shims rather than the plastic horse shoe things that came in the kit, maybe that's the difference.

daleburr

Doing the screws up tighter won't stop the mounts rotating around the bushings, it would only help if the bushings were moving on the screws, which he has stated they are not.

Superglue in the mounts to get rid of the slop between the mounts and bushings is the easiest solution.

Chris Furman

iTrader: (118)

I use these...

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXVSW0&P=7

Buckaroo

iTrader: (3)

Superglue has fixed the issue. Pain in the butt, though, as it basically makes the bushing/arm mount one unit when it comes to replacement or reconfiguration.

It's a design problem, not a hardware or tool issue, as the hole in the arm mount is larger than the aluminum sleeve that fits through it. Doesn't matter how much you tighten up the hardware, or what driver you use, NOTHING will prevent the arm mount from rotating around on the bushing. Even if the aluminum sleeve is shorter than the arm mount, and thus under compression from the arm mount screw, there is nothing else mechanical preventing the mount from rotating. One good slap of the boards or another car and it easily moves.

I tried those small aluminum spacers instead of the plastic figure 8s, but it only took one look at it to realize that it leaves the bottom of the arm mount unsupported in the event of a brush with the boards at speed. It acts just like a lever arm, and pops the head of the screw off, or at least bends it. It wasn't such an issue with the TC5, as the threads were in the aluminum bushings that were easily replaced, but the threads in the TC6 are in the bulkhead, and that is NOT an easy fix or replacement. Already seen that happen to one TC6 at my local track.

Been there, done that, switched back to the plastic spacers and never had an issue at all after that.

daleburr

My approach is to add the superglue to the mount hole, then let it dry for 24 hours before putting the bushing into the mount. So the superglue is just used to reduce the size of the hole and get rid of the slop, rather than glue the two bits together.

That way the bushing is tight in the mount, but it isn't glued to it so can be removed if necessary (haven't actually tried removing one yet, but it should come apart).

Either way its a bit crap. I guess Thunder Tiger don't understand how an interference fit works...

Buckaroo

iTrader: (3)

I did try that, but had no long term confidence in it, but I'm open to anyone's experience of overall durability of that method.

Seems like a simple redesign of the bushing and arm mount would do. Something other than round!

devilsquid

iTrader: (2)

Tom, I will check and see if I have extra ones from my photon. The inserts and all. Wont hurt to see if they fit. Photons have flat spots in/on them to prevent this very thing.

Buckaroo

iTrader: (3)

Thanks, Tommy. The Associated ones do have a flat spot, but it's relatively small. Maybe the Photon ones will fit, as the flat is larger on them. Bring on the Dremel!

lesbaldry

The Photon blocks do fit,but fitted flush to the bulk heads the wiishbone pivot pin distance is equal by 0.1mm to the Ae blocks+1mm spacers.Unfortunatly they are a perfect fit lenght ways for the wishbone and leave no room for wheel base spacers,in fact they reduce the total wheel base by 1mm (0.5mm per end) unless you are prepared to shave the inner face of the Photon block down to allow wheel base spacers to be fitted....One things for sure due to the bigger contact area they dont move/swing easy compared to the kits blocks, nor do they distort and alter the toe when tightened.....hope this helps??... Les (converted Photon driver to a car with steering )

pcar951

iTrader: (23)

Wow, this suspension mount issue is getting a life of it's own here. Honestly, I race 2 TC6's indoors on carpet (CRC boards), probably 1000 laps a week including practice nights, have not had a "significant" problem with these mounts. I don't get it!

CristianTabush

iTrader: (13)

How about drilling a set screw hole to keep it from rotating? I don't think it would not be that hard. I am gonna try and see if it works.

xtrememadness

iTrader: (2)

i was lookind at snowbird pics and noticed kevin hebert is running different bulkheads on his tc6 with arm mounts from the tc5 his screws are threaded into the arm mounts not the bulkhead. maybe this is a significant problem

CristianTabush

iTrader: (13)

Honestly, the slop, as much as it can be, is not much, so 99% of the people out there would probably not be able to tell the difference. A little slop never hurt anybody anyways

I am gonna try both the set-screw mod and the super glue mod this coming week and try and see if there is a noticeable difference in feel, and laptimes. My gut feeling is that it won't make a difference that is truly quantifiable. I have seen very comparable amounts of slop on other vehicles, such as the XRAY T3 and it never did make a difference that was noticeable while driving or in lap times.

With that, the super glue mod that is described a few posts back is not very hard to do, nor does it take a lot of glue. Just a little dab of thin CA should do. CA Does not penetrate the aluminum, so you should be able to remove the block without much effort if you use "just enough" CA.

mugenize1

iTrader: (-1)

Yo guys do TC5 bulkheads fit the TC6. If so why not use them till Associated fixes the problem?

Chris Furman

iTrader: (118)

+1