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Old 01-23-2011, 10:52 AM
  #1546  
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Originally Posted by C.Andersson
I am running short ballstuds.

When you take scale measure Dry diff weight + 1.6g of 20wt oil.

ty
Thank you Christer.
Last question: what front shafts are you using ?

Sebastien.
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Old 01-23-2011, 08:00 PM
  #1547  
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Originally Posted by hanulec
They come in two sizes - 50mm and 52mm. You can see pictures of them installed in my Photon on the web site. Hopefully we can test fit this setup in a TC6 this weekend, otherwise it will have to wait until The Birds next week.
Originally Posted by Jeff Cuffs
i gots u fat jesus
Thanks again Jeff for helping test out the spool sizing. With about 3 minutes of xacto work we were able to reduce the width of the TOP spool by trimming the ridges that support the bearings. In the photos below you will see the spool within the car. From the picture it is obvious that other c-hubs, like the XRay ones, would be required to fit the ECS drive shafts in it.

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Old 01-23-2011, 08:46 PM
  #1548  
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Originally Posted by wtcc
The belt has its narrow gap to go through without touching.

The track allows laptimes below 10s for 17,5t (non boost) and around 8,5s for modified. Here in Germany we don't have much permanent indoor tracks, because it is often to expensive (rent, heating,...) and mostly used in winter. So I am happy that this track is near my home.

I think the blue ring is for pressing the plastic servoarm around the servo pinion (I don't know the word in english) to prevent the arm from slipping?! I wasn't asking its benefit while mounting. I just use it and hope AE had a reason to produce it.
Indoor tracks are not the common here, I only know of one I refuse to drive my TC on it. My local track is a 1/5th scale track which is a permanent outdoor.
What's the German word for the servo pinion, I know some German so I should be able to translate it
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Old 01-24-2011, 04:34 AM
  #1549  
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Originally Posted by muststopcrashin
i've had my tc6 since just before xmass and have been doing well with it at the local clubs, so this weekend i got my self a RS esc and a speed passion 13.5 and changed my gears for the 1st time to 72/33 witch i should be 4.36, the RS is set as out the box as i'm not going to get the hot wire just yet.
can someone tell me if i'm about right, as i've only just started racing after a long time off.

i race on a med size carpet and a small carpet track.
out of the box your rs esc will be slow, it will need to be updated to the latest firmware to get the most out of it.
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Old 01-24-2011, 05:13 AM
  #1550  
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Originally Posted by carl_Bennetts
this is probably a really simple and easy question to answer but Iím struggling with the belt tensioned part. to get 28 do I flip the diff bearing holder so the grooves are at the bottom or do you always keep the groves at the top?

Hopefully someone can explain for me please? I want to set 28 front and 6 rear.

Thanks
Anyone able to help please?
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Old 01-24-2011, 05:49 AM
  #1551  
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Originally Posted by carl_Bennetts
Anyone able to help please?
You flip the cam holder over to lower or raise the diff, so the notches can be either at the top or at the bottom.
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Old 01-24-2011, 05:57 AM
  #1552  
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thanks Daleburr

So to get 28 on the front left i count from 17 to 28 going from front of the car to rear and then on the right side i count 17 to 28 going from rear of the car to the front?

I don't have both cam positions pointing towards the rear?

Thanks
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Old 01-24-2011, 07:25 AM
  #1553  
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Originally Posted by Scooter79rs
What's the German word for the servo pinion, I know some German so I should be able to translate it
In Germany they call it just "Servo Abtriebswelle". Which would mean servo (drive) shaft. But it sounds strange.


@hanulec: What is the estimated benefit of using the TOP spool instead of the original slipper spool?
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Old 01-24-2011, 07:38 AM
  #1554  
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Originally Posted by carl_Bennetts
thanks Daleburr

So to get 28 on the front left i count from 17 to 28 going from front of the car to rear and then on the right side i count 17 to 28 going from rear of the car to the front?

I don't have both cam positions pointing towards the rear?

Thanks
You need to count in the same direction (e.g. rear to front of car) for both the left and the right, otherwise the diff won't be straight in the car.

I wouldn't worry about the exact position number; it's not something that can be copied from one car to another. The whole point of the adjusters is to account for belt stretch, part tolerance etc which will be different on each car (even when brand new).

Just pick the diff height you want and start with both the left and right cam in the middle tension slot. Then adjust as necessary to get the belt tension to feel right.
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Old 01-24-2011, 08:13 AM
  #1555  
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Originally Posted by daleburr
You need to count in the same direction (e.g. rear to front of car) for both the left and the right, otherwise the diff won't be straight in the car.

I wouldn't worry about the exact position number; it's not something that can be copied from one car to another. The whole point of the adjusters is to account for belt stretch, part tolerance etc which will be different on each car (even when brand new).

Just pick the diff height you want and start with both the left and right cam in the middle tension slot. Then adjust as necessary to get the belt tension to feel right.
....and watch out for high speed belt flop. If the belt tension is too loose the belt actually forms little S curves in it top to bottom at high speed/full throttle and it can cause the belt to begin jumping a tooth as it goes around the pulley, oddly enough at the diff end for the long front belt.

But you still want the belt loose enough that it doesn't bind the drive system. As mentioned, set it for your car and monitor periodically.
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Old 01-24-2011, 11:02 AM
  #1556  
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thanks guys, this is really what i needed. The manual was confusing me a bit after i read it over and over!
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Old 01-25-2011, 12:18 PM
  #1557  
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can anyone tell me what if any drive shafts will fit the tc6, as i need the bits out of the AS31227: CVA Rebuild Kit, i have ordered this from 2 model shops that sed they had them in stock but did not!!!!!!!!!!! i'v been trying for a week now and am going to have to miss club night again! if i cant get some thing.


nigel
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Old 01-25-2011, 04:56 PM
  #1558  
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Originally Posted by muststopcrashin
can anyone tell me what if any drive shafts will fit the tc6, as i need the bits out of the AS31227: CVA Rebuild Kit, i have ordered this from 2 model shops that sed they had them in stock but did not!!!!!!!!!!! i'v been trying for a week now and am going to have to miss club night again! if i cant get some thing.


nigel
I have seen the tamiya shafts used, but i think bearings have to be changed along with the wheel hex.
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Old 01-25-2011, 06:12 PM
  #1559  
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Originally Posted by M.Abramowicz
Hi!

- a arms mount made from |------| to this /-----\ and big slop!, plastics move
outside , no screw issue, I put longer ones, but it looks like blue part
is a little too long ..., and it move outside, I put car on track do 5 laps to
test it and ... it made me really angry, before run I must check it again ...,
Originally Posted by daleburr
I'm currently building my TC6 (taking quite a while to get everything perfect) and discovered a design/manufacturing issue here. The arm mount bushings need to be a really tight fit into the arm mounts. Otherwise the mounts will rotate around the bushings when fitted, which is what's happening to you (and was happening to mine on the bench).

The solution is to line the hole in the arm mount with superglue (CA), then allow it to dry for a couple of hours. Then when you fit the bushing it should be a tight fit into the mount, preventing anything rotating.

You also need to threadlock the arm mount screws, otherwise these can come undone in an impact.

Hope that helps!

This has become a major issue with my car. Can't get through a Qually or Main without at least 4 of the 8 coming loose. I'm going to try the superglue route and see where that gets. VERY frustrating!

....and yeah, I've cranked on the screws something crazy. It's as mentioned, the bushings are loose in the plastic arm mounts, and I believe that this is providing the slop necessary to work the mounts loose as the run progresses. The SCREWS don't come loose, the blue bushing doesn't move (scribed register marks on 'em to match marks on the screws), it's the plastic bushing itself that rotates! I even went to some older TC5 plastic arm mounts, same problem. Starts off dialed, ends up sloppy.

As for the arm mount screws, I replaced all of mine with longer ones. Only have to be careful with the front two with an old style AMB transponder. Newer(small) style clearance isn't an issue.
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Old 01-25-2011, 06:19 PM
  #1560  
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Buckaroo, are you using the small "L" bend allen wrenches or a high quality hardened wrench to tighten the suspension mounts?

On my TC5, I used slightly longer 3mm cap screws (with the 2.5mm head), and so I did the same right from the first build on the TC6 and have had zero issues. If you use a high quality wrench and the bigger 2.5mm head screws, you can snug them up pretty tight. Costs about $3 but it works better for me.

Good luck!
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