IndyHobbies.com

I've got a tap set and I will try that. Good suggestion. I think though that the 4/40's won't fit through the top hat bushings. Seems like I tried that once looking for a metric screw. Still, I'll check. Thanks for the suggestion.

Sean Cochran

iTrader: (1)

4-40 is smaller than 3mm. 5-40 is a little bigger but I don't know who has 5-40 ball studs.

FoxRacerUK

Can anyone please help me.

Is the TC6.2 out over there yet?
Also do you know if the bulk of the spares are the same as the 6.1 worlds

Could any of you spare time to send me an essential spares list I would need for the 6.2 as I have not raced since the TC4 and would like to start again.

Many thanks

Ps part no's and desc would be nice

patorz31

Try Heli-Coiling it. You can buy the kit online or take it to a machine shop and ask.

Logi Maker

iTrader: (56)

Amain hobbies has it listed for a 12/15 release...

Your arms out are the same as the 6/6.1

FoxRacerUK

Ok ty but do we know about the spares yet?

Adonis_mp

iTrader: (9)

Putting together VTA with a TC6 and wanted to get some advice on a start point for spur/pinion, 64P and to see if anyone has a setup sheet for one. Thanks

fire929

iTrader: (13)

Can the updated tc6.2 parts be fitted to the tc6.1 world kit?

Logi Maker

iTrader: (56)

Maybe the motor mount but definitely not the arm mounts unless you want to drill your chassis...

IndyHobbies.com

New to me TC6 off eBay. This is my second one. My son swiped mine! I like this aftermarket lipo holder. I think they were made for the TC5. So I mounted it on the TC6 chassis. It locates the lipo about 1/8" further away from the centerline than stock, but I don't think that will cause much problem. Set up the rear with 2 degrees and the front 1 degree.

rc car guy

ok so i have a question about fan mounting. I am currently running it behind the motor towards the rear arms about 3/4 inch away from the motor it is 2way taped down to the chassis. The question is would it be better(cool the motor more) to mount it infront of the motor, or higher in the rear

billdelong

iTrader: (33)

I've been very happy with the side fan mount on my car, what's nice is that the heat sink double's as a wire holder when soldering the wires in place on the motor

rc car guy

i have heard an read many places that any kind of aluminum with any kind of anodizing doesnt dissipate heat, so did you do a run with the heat sink and without?

http://www.audifans.com/pipermail/s-...ly/042433.html that is a link i just found by googling the subject also how the hell is googling not a word yet... lol it says that anodized portion can act as a insulator, opposite of dissipating heat

billdelong

iTrader: (33)

I have found that on average, the fan usually cools the motor between 20° - 40° depending on gearing and track conditions... fan placement is key, note that I have the fan blowing directly into the open vent hole of the can.

I tend to agree that aluminum heat sinks alone aren't nearly as effective as having a cooling fan... here are some tips on how to remove anodized paint if you wish:

http://www.instructables.com/id/Remo...kly-and-Easil/

rc car guy

right so would it be better to run a heat sink, and a fan? i have an apex 2 or something like that, with no vent holes i believe so that isnt a viable option at the moment. also i have non anodized and anodized heat sinks (different colors, and sizes). and what about direction towards the motor(infront or behind) which is better?