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Old 11-26-2013, 04:50 PM   #9796
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you could always drill the hole out and retap it with a bigger threaded screw, you could go to a 4/40 i think thats bigger than the 2.5 mm, it uses, or you could try some red lock tight, or even superglue, or a longer bolt and a nut on the bottom assuming it wont rub.
I've got a tap set and I will try that. Good suggestion. I think though that the 4/40's won't fit through the top hat bushings. Seems like I tried that once looking for a metric screw. Still, I'll check. Thanks for the suggestion.
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Old 11-27-2013, 11:21 AM   #9797
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I've got a tap set and I will try that. Good suggestion. I think though that the 4/40's won't fit through the top hat bushings. Seems like I tried that once looking for a metric screw. Still, I'll check. Thanks for the suggestion.
4-40 is smaller than 3mm. 5-40 is a little bigger but I don't know who has 5-40 ball studs.
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Old 11-27-2013, 11:28 AM   #9798
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Can anyone please help me.

Is the TC6.2 out over there yet?
Also do you know if the bulk of the spares are the same as the 6.1 worlds

Could any of you spare time to send me an essential spares list I would need for the 6.2 as I have not raced since the TC4 and would like to start again.

Many thanks

Ps part no's and desc would be nice

Last edited by FoxRacerUK; 11-27-2013 at 11:42 AM. Reason: wanted part no's if possible
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Old 11-27-2013, 01:03 PM   #9799
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Anyone know of a source for aluminum steering knuckles for the TC6/TC5? Integy used to make a set, but they are discontinued. Bummer. One of mine got stripped out.

I've looked at Tower and on ebay. Maybe there's another source?

Thanks,

Scott
Try Heli-Coiling it. You can buy the kit online or take it to a machine shop and ask.
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Old 11-27-2013, 01:14 PM   #9800
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Originally Posted by FoxRacerUK View Post
Can anyone please help me.

Is the TC6.2 out over there yet?
Also do you know if the bulk of the spares are the same as the 6.1 worlds

Could any of you spare time to send me an essential spares list I would need for the 6.2 as I have not raced since the TC4 and would like to start again.

Many thanks

Ps part no's and desc would be nice
Amain hobbies has it listed for a 12/15 release...

Your arms out are the same as the 6/6.1
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Old 11-27-2013, 01:41 PM   #9801
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[B]Amain hobbies has it listed for a 12/15 release...[/B]
Your arms out are the same as the 6/6.1
Ok ty but do we know about the spares yet?
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Old 11-27-2013, 10:25 PM   #9802
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Putting together VTA with a TC6 and wanted to get some advice on a start point for spur/pinion, 64P and to see if anyone has a setup sheet for one. Thanks
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Old 11-28-2013, 08:13 AM   #9803
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Default Just a ????

Can the updated tc6.2 parts be fitted to the tc6.1 world kit?
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Old 11-28-2013, 11:13 AM   #9804
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Can the updated tc6.2 parts be fitted to the tc6.1 world kit?
Maybe the motor mount but definitely not the arm mounts unless you want to drill your chassis...
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Old 11-28-2013, 02:27 PM   #9805
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New to me TC6 off eBay. This is my second one. My son swiped mine! I like this aftermarket lipo holder. I think they were made for the TC5. So I mounted it on the TC6 chassis. It locates the lipo about 1/8" further away from the centerline than stock, but I don't think that will cause much problem. Set up the rear with 2 degrees and the front 1 degree.
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Old 11-29-2013, 09:08 AM   #9806
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ok so i have a question about fan mounting. I am currently running it behind the motor towards the rear arms about 3/4 inch away from the motor it is 2way taped down to the chassis. The question is would it be better(cool the motor more) to mount it infront of the motor, or higher in the rear
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Old 11-29-2013, 09:28 AM   #9807
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I've been very happy with the side fan mount on my car, what's nice is that the heat sink double's as a wire holder when soldering the wires in place on the motor

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Old 11-29-2013, 09:33 AM   #9808
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I've been very happy with the side fan mount on my car, what's nice is that the heat sink double's as a wire holder when soldering the wires in place on the motor

i have heard an read many places that any kind of aluminum with any kind of anodizing doesnt dissipate heat, so did you do a run with the heat sink and without?

http://www.audifans.com/pipermail/s-...ly/042433.html that is a link i just found by googling the subject also how the hell is googling not a word yet... lol it says that anodized portion can act as a insulator, opposite of dissipating heat
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Old 11-29-2013, 09:44 AM   #9809
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I have found that on average, the fan usually cools the motor between 20 - 40 depending on gearing and track conditions... fan placement is key, note that I have the fan blowing directly into the open vent hole of the can.

I tend to agree that aluminum heat sinks alone aren't nearly as effective as having a cooling fan... here are some tips on how to remove anodized paint if you wish:

http://www.instructables.com/id/Remo...kly-and-Easil/
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Old 11-29-2013, 09:50 AM   #9810
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Originally Posted by billdelong View Post
I have found that on average, the fan usually cools the motor between 20 - 40 depending on gearing and track conditions... fan placement is key, note that I have the fan blowing directly into the open vent hole of the can.

I tend to agree that aluminum heat sinks alone aren't nearly as effective as having a cooling fan... here are some tips on how to remove anodized paint if you wish:

http://www.instructables.com/id/Remo...kly-and-Easil/
right so would it be better to run a heat sink, and a fan? i have an apex 2 or something like that, with no vent holes i believe so that isnt a viable option at the moment. also i have non anodized and anodized heat sinks (different colors, and sizes). and what about direction towards the motor(infront or behind) which is better?
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