Hi guys,

Can anyone suggest some shims which will fit around the outer hinge pins, between the wishbone and the hub to stop it moving back and forth a little?

Thanks,

Neal

Tamiya sells all sorts of shims of various sizes. I think those are 4mm pins (you'll need to measure to verify). Here is an example:

http://www.rcmart.com/rc-washer-tami...m-p-18082.html

Buy these and... "set it and forget it."
http://www.ppdbillet.com/dial-a-grip.htm

They are super slick with all roll center options built it. I run the "0"s in the rear and the new "2"s in the front. No more slop!!!!

Hope this helps.
-Jon

Have you seen our Block locks?

They are essentially 1.5mm shims to space out your arms and keep the blocks from moving.

http://www.reflexracing.net/assets/i...ges/rsd009.jpg

http://www.reflexracing.net/assets/i.../RSD009_02.jpg

Neal, to remove outer hinge pin slop drill a hole in the bottom of the hub and use a set screw to secure it.

For the inner pins, use 12R5 bulkhead shims for width (6.1 offset blocks help too) and ballstud washers for wheelbase.

This is what me and the majority of the AE team drivers use with great results. Hope this helps.

Mike

I hear in the pits the TC6 has straight drop in ecs shafts that are out now. Anybody have any info on that.

Nothing official from AE, but Spec R V2 Yokomo BD5 DCJs are plug and play.

Mike Slaughter

Looks like I misread Redwood's question. :blush:
Outer pins not inner pins. :blush:

Great tip Mike! (and thanks for not calling out my mistake!) :o

To remove slop between the rear hub and hingepin, do the previously-mentioned drill + setscrew, or I've found that dribbling a very small amount of CA down the holes in the insert makes it grab the hinge pin. Do a small amount at a time. You may be able to put the pin through and back out very quickly before the glue sets, to make sure it won't be too tight. But you definitely want to let it dry before you do final assembly, or else you might not get it apart again. :) With either approach, you may have to back off the hinge pin retaining screw a hair to free up the pin in the arm and avoid binding.

If you still have forward/backward slop, your options are thin 3mm ID shims (Tamiya makes 'em, speedtech sells 'em, you can also I think get Atomic from HKS hobby or other places). Or, someone said you can loosely place the inserts into the hub, then install the hub into the arm to get them pushed in just enough, then glue them.

-Mike

Hey guys, I was installing my weight set to achieve the 1550g for VTA racing and i noticed one of the screw holes was not in line with the rest of the screws. Has anyone else noticed this and should I contact AE and see what they say?
It's the screw at the very bottom, I guess if I were trying to balance the car perfectly this may cause a problem... I'm new so keep that in mind :D

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e2...a/1f451377.jpg

The hole you refer to is for the front motor mount so it is in the correct location. Not meant to be used for weight.

I think what you mean is since the 6.1 hubs now use 5x10 bearings it much easier to drop in other manufacturers driveshafts. AE does not have a double jointed axle, at this time.

Thanx for the info. So no need to mod anything or buy other yokomo parts?

Rotflmao... I told you I was new... Thanks

Unfortunately you will also need Yokomo, Tamiya, Hotbodies, or 3Racing type hex hubs and axle pin. Luckily they can be had quite cheaply from most places that sell the Spec R stuff.

Mike Slaughter