R/C Tech Forums - Team Associated TC6 Thread

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Hey guys,

My first time posting. Just bought an TC6.1. I have 2 questions.
1. What is the hop ups you guys recommend for this kit? will be running 8.5T brushless.
2. I realized there is not allot of spur gears available for the TC6.1 out there. So which brand will fit for the TC6.1?

Thanks for the help!!

Quote:

Originally Posted by hycinth (Post 10408199)

I use kimbrough gears. In stock I use 96

This is the most common hop up I've seen

As of right now I'm driving a tc6 that I'm upgrading to a 6.1. So what 6.1 parts will I need to use the yokomo ecs shaft from Spec R

Robinson racing product's spur gears fit the 6.1

:)

I must work on wires but now is OK.

Attachment 887295
Attachment 887296

1346g ready on RIDE ets tires.

:-)

Quote:

Originally Posted by M.Abramowicz (Post 10410295)

:)

I must work on wires but now is OK.

Attachment 887295
Attachment 887296

1346g ready on RIDE ets tires.

:-)

Are you running the top deck flipped over and button heads? reason?

Quote:

Originally Posted by durtbag (Post 10410741)

Are you running the top deck flipped over and button heads? reason?

Hm.

It produce better flex and also do not tweek car when screw is overtighted.

And also after inpact car back usually to flat state ;)

Sorry for my english.

Quote:

Originally Posted by M.Abramowicz (Post 10410295)

:)

I must work on wires but now is OK.

Attachment 887295
Attachment 887296

1346g ready on RIDE ets tires.

:-)

What part numbers are you using for the that steering rack???
Thanks,
Jon

Quote:

Originally Posted by burgboyz (Post 10410955)

What part numbers are you using for the that steering rack???
Thanks,
Jon

Hi!

Its just part made from carbon like letter L.
Connected to this 2 holes just after a-arm.

I did one hole for middle there is servo mount blue part.
Servo saver is from monster truck. Trf is too soft.

Link is connected to snap which replace screw on servosaver.

All parts are non destroyed so if want test tc6 servo style I can just remove my mod.

But I prefer it, for me car easy turn into corner and also save space for electronics.

There was some movie on yt. User abrampl

Regards!

Spec-R BD5 DCJ's

What hex adapter are you guys using with the spec r yokomo BD5 DCJ's...?

Yokomo's will probably be your best bet.

Quote:

Originally Posted by CristianTabush (Post 10411476)

Yokomo's will probably be your best bet.

haha I figured but I thought I would ask just in case :)

Quote:

Originally Posted by Steve Weiss (Post 10411457)

What hex adapter are you guys using with the spec r yokomo BD5 DCJ's...?

I used Hotbodies thin PN 72044. It gives you a few more options for shimming at the hex that way. IIRC a 1mm shim puts you at stock hex width.

It is close at the C-hub but I did not have to grind once shimmed under the hex pin.

I spent last practice abusing them with a boosted 5.5 on carpet and no issues.

Mike Slaughter

Hi

How do you guys cut the top deck?

Any pictures pls!?:confused:

Quote:

Originally Posted by or8ital (Post 10405083)

Tamiya sells all sorts of shims of various sizes. I think those are 4mm pins (you'll need to measure to verify). Here is an example:

http://www.rcmart.com/rc-washer-tami...m-p-18082.html

Quote:

Originally Posted by Big Features (Post 10405858)

Neal, to remove outer hinge pin slop drill a hole in the bottom of the hub and use a set screw to secure it.

For the inner pins, use 12R5 bulkhead shims for width (6.1 offset blocks help too) and ballstud washers for wheelbase.

This is what me and the majority of the AE team drivers use with great results. Hope this helps.

Mike

Quote:

Originally Posted by grippgoat (Post 10407619)

To remove slop between the rear hub and hingepin, do the previously-mentioned drill + setscrew, or I've found that dribbling a very small amount of CA down the holes in the insert makes it grab the hinge pin. Do a small amount at a time. You may be able to put the pin through and back out very quickly before the glue sets, to make sure it won't be too tight. But you definitely want to let it dry before you do final assembly, or else you might not get it apart again. :) With either approach, you may have to back off the hinge pin retaining screw a hair to free up the pin in the arm and avoid binding.

If you still have forward/backward slop, your options are thin 3mm ID shims (Tamiya makes 'em, speedtech sells 'em, you can also I think get Atomic from HKS hobby or other places). Or, someone said you can loosely place the inserts into the hub, then install the hub into the arm to get them pushed in just enough, then glue them.

-Mike

Thanks for the help guys, I take it then that it is common to have the hubs rock a little in the wishbones? I didn't think it was so bad with the old parts but maybe I never noticed.

At first I thought it was because I had not glued the caster inserts into the C-Hub but that didnt help. I think the hole is just slightly too big for the shaft so the set screw or the glue option should work.

I am confident if I try the glue option I will mess it up, so I will try the set screw if I can find some, though all TC6.1 arms, hubs etc. seem to be out of stock here so maybe I will wait until I have a backup.

Thanks for the replies though, appreciated.

Regards,

Neal