Team Associated TC6 Thread
#4441
#4442
What to do
Im a little wet behind the ears here and need a little assistance. What would make my TC6 pull to to left during hard acceleration and pull to the right during braking? Please help. Thank you for your help.
#4443
Tech Master
iTrader: (3)
Thanks for the input. Another newbie question. I searched it here Nd nothing came up. I know the tc6 is a 190mm body but will I able to run this 200mm hpi body?
http://www.hpiracing.com/products/en/102505/
I really like that body and maybe the corvette one as well.
Also found this one on eBay without the rear wing.
http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewi...id=71881863456
http://www.hpiracing.com/products/en/102505/
I really like that body and maybe the corvette one as well.
Also found this one on eBay without the rear wing.
http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewi...id=71881863456
#4445
Tech Master
iTrader: (10)
Also, make sure the spur bulkhead and motor mount screws are all tight. If one loosens, the motor torque can lightly tweak the chassis when you accelerate or brake.
#4446
Check to make sure slipper spool is tight and not slipping under acceleration or braking,
#4447
Check your pin cushions to make sure one of them isn't broken.
#4448
Tech Master
iTrader: (23)
But, last night's club race I noticed that my servo screws were lose so, i just tightened them, turns out that there was a bunch of crud under the servo. Created a pretty good tweak in the front end of the car, don't know how I didn't see it, I had it on the blocks about 10 times. We'll see if the problem's solved on practice night (Tuesday).
#4449
Tech Fanatic
I've had the spur layshaft screws come loose or come out on one side and it caused funky handling like that. After a few laps it tends to turn the spur into a smooth plastic disc
Also, make sure the spur bulkhead and motor mount screws are all tight. If one loosens, the motor torque can lightly tweak the chassis when you accelerate or brake.
Also, make sure the spur bulkhead and motor mount screws are all tight. If one loosens, the motor torque can lightly tweak the chassis when you accelerate or brake.
Still a very tiny amount of threadlock is my answer to this so far and the change of screws to straight screw driver heads. If you do not use threadlock, check them regularly.
#4450
Suspended
Ceramic bearing kit for tc-6
hi , do you guys run ceramic or non , and if yes what are the advantages, as far as performance, and does it affects the class group,
#4451
Tech Fanatic
The rest are actually not bad, I was a little worried about the little flanged ones on spur gear, but they're holding good so far.
If I was to invest in ceramics, I would just look for the ones that really mattered in the drivetrain, but are they really that much better?? I do not believe so.
#4452
Tech Regular
I dont run ceramic. It's cheaper to replace the bearing by normal ones instead of running ceramic. It doesnt make you faster.
#4453
Tech Master
iTrader: (3)
To me, this is a weak point on our cars, the 2.5mm screws are of poor quality and get loose too easily (destroying you spur gear in the process, happened twice on our two cars) then if you threadlock them, it becomes a pain to remove the two of them at the same time, as you cannot remove one then the other.
Still a very tiny amount of threadlock is my answer to this so far and the change of screws to straight screw driver heads. If you do not use threadlock, check them regularly.
Still a very tiny amount of threadlock is my answer to this so far and the change of screws to straight screw driver heads. If you do not use threadlock, check them regularly.
Replace the crap stock hardware with these, tighten correctly, and it'll never come out unless you want it to again. There is plenty of room for the cap heads, and you can use a better tool to get more purchase on the head and be able to torque it properly without fear of stripping it out. If you do manage to strip it out or break off your tool, vice grips can still grab the head and you can get it out.
I use ceramic diff and thrust balls because of the high compression and the fact that the ceramic ball won't pit or flat spot if something goes wrong. They'll also run smoother with less lube, too, so as more lube gets flung from the diff, it'll still be smoother than old metal balls.
Everything else is $1 Avid brand bearings. Clean 'em and oil 'em once in a while and they'll last for quite some time. If one goes bad or gets destroyed by a bad crash, I'm out $1 (can't say that about a ceramic). For the price of ceramics, you can get 8-10 seasons (2 seasons a year outdoor and indoor) worth of Avid bearings. By that time there's a new car on the street or enough is worn out on the car that it needs replaced anyway.
Last edited by Buckaroo; 11-06-2011 at 05:49 AM.
#4454
Tech Fanatic
I had the very same problem. No matter how tight I got it, every second or third run a screw would back out and thing would begin to wobble.
Replace the crap stock hardware with these, tighten correctly, and it'll never come out unless you want it to again.
Replace the crap stock hardware with these, tighten correctly, and it'll never come out unless you want it to again.
I looked into the option to pass a long screw/bolt through the shaft but it is not hollow and threaded all the way, shame, because this could be a good option to lock with a nylock nut on one side.
Maybe AE could look into this option. Rick what are your thoughts on this?
#4455
Tech Master
iTrader: (3)
These are 10mm long, the original are 8mm, I guess they fit?
I looked into the option to pass a long screw/bolt through the shaft but it is not hollow and threaded all the way, shame, because this could be a good option to lock with a nylock nut on one side.
Maybe AE could look into this option. Rick what are your thoughts on this?
I looked into the option to pass a long screw/bolt through the shaft but it is not hollow and threaded all the way, shame, because this could be a good option to lock with a nylock nut on one side.
Maybe AE could look into this option. Rick what are your thoughts on this?
The best option would be a bolt on one side, and a headless set screw just long enough to reach through and support on the bulkhead hole on the other side, thus preventing pincing of the bulkhead and causing tweak, but I have yet to find a 2.5mm set screw long enough.