jorgesimes

As for anti-squat i don't think anyone measured that in degrees or maybe the relevance of that. As for camber i really don't understand your question, camber gain?

daleburr

The 3B link position will give the same camber gain as 3A, but the roll-centre will drop more as the car corners (due to the longer links). This will give more mid-corner rear end grip. It will make the car feel a bit lazy, but is useful in low grip conditions, or on big flowing tracks where you don't need quick direction change.

Jonesy112

iTrader: (3)

What keeps the aluminium caster blocks from bending and changing your caster/camber without it being obvious?

durtbag

thanks for that, still learning.

durtbag

If you look at page#24 in the build book it describes Anti Squat and Pro-Squat in levels of Degrees with a maximum of 2. I do not see the Olly combination in the chart and was wondering what # of degrees it would be.

As for the relevence of the degrees. Does the greater the anti squat angle stiffen the rear?

Verndog

iTrader: (16)

All the softer parts they are connected to that will give or bend first.

I ran these on my TC5 for 2 years with no issues, and plenty of impact testing was done.

CristianTabush

iTrader: (13)

That setting should give you about 1.7 degrees of antisquat. The difference in height is about of the blocks 1.5mm so, if you do the math, that's the number that comes up.

With all the mounts, the difference is 1mm increments. It is just when you go from B0 to A3 that you get a 1.5mm change. So with all the other mounts, when you use anti-dive, anti-squat, pro-squat, or kick up, the change of going 1 block different in any direction is 1.15 degrees. Only when combining A3 with B0 will you get 1.7 deg.

twk-b

iTrader: (1)

ahh.. i didnt do all the reading back but assuming this is tc5/tc6 related my two cents would be.... having a set of the aluminum ones in your parts bag would be good for when u have busted all your plastic ones on the "wall of champions" (and there are none on the shelf at the LHS)....

I ran a set for not very long (because it was all I could buy), and the other people I have seen running them, they were warped... They will let you finish the race/weekend but they just bend instead of breaking....

-b

artwork

iTrader: (88)

A good bumper goes a long way in protecting caster blocks...

I retrofit a Parma T2 bumper and the front end is rock solid. No need for Aluminum parts...

I use Aluminum parts as a tuning option. As grip comes up sometimes it is nice to try out more rigid steering components.

VAzRACER

iTrader: (17)

^ +1 on the Parma bumper. I used one for a TC5. A friend told me about them, there are solid and def help save the front end. I'll never drive without one again.

Verndog

iTrader: (16)

What brand castor blocks are you saying warped? We are discussing the Diggity Design 6 deg blocks here and in 2 years on a TC5 they were as good as day 1.

big al

iTrader: (10)

Vern, did you use this setup at fantasy world? Did you deviate from the setup at all. Unfortunately, I don't have access to HPI stuff.

Verndog

iTrader: (16)

Had a good long day out on Saturday at Four Seasons in Olympia. Traction was just coming up but the TC6 was holding very well considering conditions.

Only changes I made were steering bellcrank at 7B instead of 7A, Losi #57 shock pistons (3 hole), springs AE silver, silver, 60 wt oil in front and 40 in rear.

Nothing HPI on mine, the AE springs are fine IMO. If you look at the "Olly" setup which is similar those changes I listed were run by him as well.

Big Features

iTrader: (4)

Agree. I'm running AE silver springs front and rear with 50wt in front and 35 rear.

captain stacker

iTrader: (10)

I have never seen so much slop in a touring car.

So I changed to a new arm and Chub, and its still sloppy.

The bores for the front arms are just too big for the hinge pin.

I might just need to drill a hole in the Chub and use a set screw to hold the hinge pin, hopefully it will get rid of the slop.