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Old 01-28-2011, 03:32 PM
  #1606  
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Changing the rear blocks to different degrees, 0 to 0.05 up 1, what does it actually do? Increase caster? I thought that's why we put spacers in the rear.
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Old 01-28-2011, 03:57 PM
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Originally Posted by cheehtae
Changing the rear blocks to different degrees, 0 to 0.05 up 1, what does it actually do? Increase caster? I thought that's why we put spacers in the rear.
With the optional blocks, you're changing a balance of inboard vs. outboard toe in at the rear. (Still set the overall rear toe to be the same: usually around 3 degrees total)

With all of your toe inboard, the rear end will feel more planted under acceleration, than if you're running some of the toe outboard.
On my TC5, I sometimes used the 1 degree blocks to get the car to rotate more on power. It's also useful on tracks with long corners, since it allows you to apply throttle sooner.
With the TC6 on carpet, I haven't had the need for that adjustment yet.
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Old 01-29-2011, 06:14 AM
  #1608  
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Yesterday, I was on my hometrack doing some setup experiments with the TC6. As I wrote some pages before I tried the KH-setup. The time got better, but the car itself was difficult to handle.

The experiment was the handling of the camber links. As we all know did KH change the ones in the back with shorter ones and used them like in the TC5. Christer Andersson uses the long version and uses 5mm shims on the outside and because of this he had to use 1mm offset for the wheels. My experience with the long links in the back where positive. In comparison the short ones seem to give more grip.

Yesterday, I changed my camberlink position like it is shown on the pictures.









I was wondering if this would change something (that I can feel). At first I was driving without using shims below the inside ballstuds. The rear was feeling a bit more loose, but the lapitmes stayed the same as before. I then put 1mm shims under the inside ballstuds in front and used thicker shims under the rear outside ballstuds. The rear got its grip again. Laptimes stayed the same (the change was around some thousands of a second).

So I just let it like I had it then and tried to fix the problem with the difficult handling. Surprisingly this problem could easily be solved with changing the green spring with the silver one in front. The car got all of his superior handling back and felt much much quicker. The best thing it was quicker! Now I was able to reduce laptimes around 1.5 tenth and to drive constant 9.7s laps (before with KH-setup copy some 9.8s and 9.9s, but mostly low 10,Xs). With these times I could have won the race in Senden before X-mas Next time! Now I am curios how this setup will perform at the next race in GŁnzburg.

As resume for me I think the camber link positions in the rear can be used to slightly change the griplevel, but if short or long seem to make no big difference. The long link needs to reach a specific angle which can be adjusted like Christer Andersson did it, or like I did it without hexoffset.
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Old 01-29-2011, 08:01 AM
  #1609  
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Cool!

Now get that top decked flipped over for more consistant flex!
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Old 01-29-2011, 09:17 AM
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Originally Posted by JRXS_chris
Cool!

Now get that top decked flipped over for more consistant flex!

???... could you please explain ?
Thanks.
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Old 01-29-2011, 10:02 AM
  #1611  
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Originally Posted by Mowell
I also run a Savox mg1251 servo. It is awesome, but I haven't heard a louder servo. It only really barks with a load though.
Are you guys who are running the Savox running boosted classes with Tekin speed controls?

The servo seems crazy fast, but as soon as I put my car on the track I loose my boost. Cycling the car will reset it for a breif period. I changed out everything in the car (refusing to believe the servo could be the cause) and then the servo to fix the issue, and replacing the servo brings back the problem.

When I built my second TC6 I tried it again and same issue... its wierd, not a total cut (like a lipo cut off) the car still drives, just no boost....

Per your question, i have never heard a louder servo, and it almost never shuts up, in any of the cars I have seen them in (2 or 3 at our local track).

-b
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Old 01-29-2011, 10:03 AM
  #1612  
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Originally Posted by wtcc
Yesterday, I was on my hometrack doing some setup experiments with the TC6. As I wrote some pages before I tried the KH-setup. The time got better, but the car itself was difficult to handle.

The experiment was the handling of the camber links. As we all know did KH change the ones in the back with shorter ones and used them like in the TC5. Christer Andersson uses the long version and uses 5mm shims on the outside and because of this he had to use 1mm offset for the wheels. My experience with the long links in the back where positive. In comparison the short ones seem to give more grip.

Yesterday, I changed my camberlink position like it is shown on the pictures.









I was wondering if this would change something (that I can feel). At first I was driving without using shims below the inside ballstuds. The rear was feeling a bit more loose, but the lapitmes stayed the same as before. I then put 1mm shims under the inside ballstuds in front and used thicker shims under the rear outside ballstuds. The rear got its grip again. Laptimes stayed the same (the change was around some thousands of a second).

So I just let it like I had it then and tried to fix the problem with the difficult handling. Surprisingly this problem could easily be solved with changing the green spring with the silver one in front. The car got all of his superior handling back and felt much much quicker. The best thing it was quicker! Now I was able to reduce laptimes around 1.5 tenth and to drive constant 9.7s laps (before with KH-setup copy some 9.8s and 9.9s, but mostly low 10,Xs). With these times I could have won the race in Senden before X-mas Next time! Now I am curios how this setup will perform at the next race in GŁnzburg.

As resume for me I think the camber link positions in the rear can be used to slightly change the griplevel, but if short or long seem to make no big difference. The long link needs to reach a specific angle which can be adjusted like Christer Andersson did it, or like I did it without hexoffset.
Interesting. Angle of the links looks crazy. But if it works, look doesnt matter.

I have to try that. Thanks for sharing
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Old 01-29-2011, 12:08 PM
  #1613  
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anybody know who has one in stock??
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Old 01-29-2011, 01:15 PM
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Originally Posted by forrestboy
anybody know who has one in stock??
switching from photon?
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Old 01-29-2011, 02:06 PM
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Originally Posted by jag88
???... could you please explain ?
Thanks.
Has this not been mentioned on here yet? Wow.

OK the TC6 drivers here in the UK have been running the top decked flipped and not using countersunk screws as intended. See the pic of Olly Jeffries car here ->



The countersunk screws create a 'jamming' effect which affects the consistancy of the flex. If you think about it the countersunk screws are 'locking' the top deck in place. If you use the pictured washers or just button heads it smooths the flex out as it can slide around freely.

It makes a huge difference on flast flowing corners. Makes the car rotate better.

First thing I changed.
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Old 01-29-2011, 02:13 PM
  #1616  
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Originally Posted by forrestboy
anybody know who has one in stock??
they're coming on february 18th.. I am in waiting list too ...

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Old 01-29-2011, 02:17 PM
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I'd be worried about tweak ... but what the heck it's worth a try !
Thanks again.
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Old 01-29-2011, 02:21 PM
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Default Mamba Max ESC

Can someone tell me how to add a Fan on this ESC?
Attached Thumbnails Team Associated TC6 Thread-4b9d_12.jpg  
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Old 01-29-2011, 02:22 PM
  #1619  
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Originally Posted by wtcc
Yesterday, I was on my hometrack doing some setup experiments with the TC6. As I wrote some pages before I tried the KH-setup. The time got better, but the car itself was difficult to handle.

The experiment was the handling of the camber links. As we all know did KH change the ones in the back with shorter ones and used them like in the TC5. Christer Andersson uses the long version and uses 5mm shims on the outside and because of this he had to use 1mm offset for the wheels. My experience with the long links in the back where positive. In comparison the short ones seem to give more grip.

Yesterday, I changed my camberlink position like it is shown on the pictures.









I was wondering if this would change something (that I can feel). At first I was driving without using shims below the inside ballstuds. The rear was feeling a bit more loose, but the lapitmes stayed the same as before. I then put 1mm shims under the inside ballstuds in front and used thicker shims under the rear outside ballstuds. The rear got its grip again. Laptimes stayed the same (the change was around some thousands of a second).

So I just let it like I had it then and tried to fix the problem with the difficult handling. Surprisingly this problem could easily be solved with changing the green spring with the silver one in front. The car got all of his superior handling back and felt much much quicker. The best thing it was quicker! Now I was able to reduce laptimes around 1.5 tenth and to drive constant 9.7s laps (before with KH-setup copy some 9.8s and 9.9s, but mostly low 10,Xs). With these times I could have won the race in Senden before X-mas Next time! Now I am curios how this setup will perform at the next race in GŁnzburg.

As resume for me I think the camber link positions in the rear can be used to slightly change the griplevel, but if short or long seem to make no big difference. The long link needs to reach a specific angle which can be adjusted like Christer Andersson did it, or like I did it without hexoffset.
That looks very nice and different.
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Old 01-29-2011, 02:43 PM
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Originally Posted by forrestboy
anybody know who has one in stock??
PM Hobbycraft has a number of TC6 kits in stock (I've posted this before). Their website doesn't list them, you have to phone, they've been shipping kits all over the world. Ph: 403 291 2733. They're great guys to deal with: Bruce, James, Erwin, Isaac.
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